Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.
  • Current Donation Goals

Vintage Love


JoJo35

Recommended Posts

:lol: Yeah. It's a stock MBW dial. The lume used is a Superluminova C3 from Tritec, mixed with bright orange lume also from RC Tritec (small amount of this one) then applied over MBW dial. To my surprise, the lume blends very well with that "darker" background. Please add a little bit of dilutor to the mix too so that it will mix nicely with base background thus creating that "vintage" effect. Don't overpaint the lume to the white area, it will turn out ugly.

This is actually an unexpected result... Was experimenting with Tritec stuff. I would say that it's not overly vintagized but the colour is spot on if you compare it to the pearl.

As for the pearl, it's real Tritium pearl.

Thank you ;) I am not going to mod this watch further. I will leave it as it's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 201
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

:lol: Yeah. It's a stock MBW dial. The lume used is a Superluminova C3 from Tritec, mixed with bright orange lume also from RC Tritec (small amount of this one) then applied over MBW dial. To my surprise, the lume blends very well with that "darker" background. Please add a little bit of dilutor to the mix too so that it will mix nicely with base background thus creating that "vintage" effect. Don't overpaint the lume to the white area, it will turn out ugly.

This is actually an unexpected result... Was experimenting with Tritec stuff. I would say that it's not overly vintagized but the colour is spot on if you compare it to the pearl.

Takashi - Thanks, but what I really want to know is how you were able to create such accurate lines (edges) around each of the index markers? They do not look like you painted them by hand. What tool & procedure did you use to apply the lume?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot for your compliment Freddy ;) It's certainly can be still improved and machine applied lume will look much better. A big flaw here nevertheless is the brightness of the lume. It overpowers even the genuine modern Rolex with C1 lume :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot for your compliment Freddy ;) It's certainly can be still improved and machine applied lume will look much better. A big flaw here nevertheless is the brightness of the lume. It overpowers even the genuine modern Rolex with C1 lume :p

Yeah, I never understand why people use anything more luminescent than Bergeon lume paste (which glows very faintly, at best) or plain paint (no lume) on vintage pieces. After 30 or so years, the original tritium will have little or no glow at all.

But I am still in awe of your application technique. Applying lume has never been 1 of my strong suits. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can test it out on a cheap piece with Asian movement. This vintage watch costs you probably about 20 dollar.

Indeed. The lume should not glow at all by this time. This watch is far from accurate from the genuine article but I intend to use it as a daily beater and I would like to have lume on it.

Well, this maybe just the beginning of my quest in collecting vintage Rolex reps. Will probably create a 5513/12 in the future.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got these two, but I seem to have lost the momentum to finish the projects.

1680-03-640.jpg

Gen crown, tube, tropic, pearl. Low-beat ETA 2846.

1665-03-640.jpg

Gen tropic, Watchmeister datewheel.

I don't wear the 1680 for some reason. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't wear the 1680 for some reason. :(

I'll take it off your hand (or winder),,,,I need something to put on this post!!!! I've got the vintage bug very bad right now :D I don't have a single vintage watch at this moment and money in my watch account,,,something is wrong :huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
A very tasty collection you have Jojo!!!

Here's a stock group shot of my vintage.

DSCN5011.jpg

Sadly my 5517 is all taken apart and going back into "the shop" for work :(

DSCN5169.jpg

That 5517 is too much, man! :wub: If I can ask, what did you use as the base for that? I am thinking of the same project myself. Did you use a 1520 cal. mvmnt? Which case is that-- an MBW 5512 case? I am dying to know the details?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That 5517 is too much, man! :wub: If I can ask, what did you use as the base for that? I am thinking of the same project myself. Did you use a 1520 cal. mvmnt? Which case is that-- an MBW 5512 case? I am dying to know the details?

Thanks for the compliment JMT.

Here are some details on my 5517. It's a J&W 5517 Vietnamese case, NDT dial, CWP bezel and insert with gen lume pearl. It did have a 2846 ETA fitted with MkII Watches hands but there were problems with the movement alignment in the case and a lot of stress on the stem which started rubbing the dial paint at the 3 o'clock and I had to disassemble it.

So it looks like a gen 1520 is my best option :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It did have a 2846 ETA fitted with MkII Watches hands but there were problems with the movement alignment in the case and a lot of stress on the stem which started rubbing the dial paint at the 3 o'clock and I had to disassemble it.

So it looks like a gen 1520 is my best option

Okay, if I understand correctly, the 1520 is a thinner movement than a 1570? Since it has the date disc holder removed? Am I correct? The 1520 sits deeper in the case? stem closer to dial?

Which means, the 2846 is a nice replacement for the 1570 as the stem alignment is very close, but not a very good fit for the 1520 case.

Your case is machined to accept a genuine 1520 movement, correct? So, if you don't want to spring $800+ for a 1520, how about you pick up an ETA 2801 mainplate, or a 2824-2 mainplate and drop all the 2846 parts into the replacement mainplate? This way you will have a thinner movement that will fit the case with better stem alignment, and it will still be a slow beat movement. You can also install a stop lever so the movement hacks, and convert to a two position stem.

But before you go through all the trouble of rebuilding a movement, maybe test fit with a 2824-2 to see if it is a fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually, I picked it up five years ago, before I realized that there was great custom stuff. Two local autherized Rolex dealers have declared it authentic (with a 20 year old refinished dial). Always doubted, but never had the courage to send it to Rolex corporate.

Regards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, if I understand correctly, the 1520 is a thinner movement than a 1570? Since it has the date disc holder removed? Am I correct? The 1520 sits deeper in the case? stem closer to dial?

Which means, the 2846 is a nice replacement for the 1570 as the stem alignment is very close, but not a very good fit for the 1520 case.

Your case is machined to accept a genuine 1520 movement, correct? So, if you don't want to spring $800+ for a 1520, how about you pick up an ETA 2801 mainplate, or a 2824-2 mainplate and drop all the 2846 parts into the replacement mainplate? This way you will have a thinner movement that will fit the case with better stem alignment, and it will still be a slow beat movement. You can also install a stop lever so the movement hacks, and convert to a two position stem.

But before you go through all the trouble of rebuilding a movement, maybe test fit with a 2824-2 to see if it is a fit.

Stilty, I don't have the answers to those questions, I don't know that much about movements. I always send out these projects as I've wrecked too many movements doing simple tasks and now punt on anything mvmt and assembly related. Either way that's great info, but I'm inclined to pony up the money and drop a gen in there as Freddy said I have a lot invested already.

Sir L, the MkII hands are nice but I really had no other options for sword hands for the ETA, they look real close, maybe a hair too long. I think the Clarks sub hands are fine and have used them on other projects.

Oh and very nice vintage Addingwatch!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up