takashi Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Yeah. It's a stock MBW dial. The lume used is a Superluminova C3 from Tritec, mixed with bright orange lume also from RC Tritec (small amount of this one) then applied over MBW dial. To my surprise, the lume blends very well with that "darker" background. Please add a little bit of dilutor to the mix too so that it will mix nicely with base background thus creating that "vintage" effect. Don't overpaint the lume to the white area, it will turn out ugly. This is actually an unexpected result... Was experimenting with Tritec stuff. I would say that it's not overly vintagized but the colour is spot on if you compare it to the pearl. As for the pearl, it's real Tritium pearl. Thank you I am not going to mod this watch further. I will leave it as it's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star69 Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 looks good Taka - i :wub: it !! Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Yeah. It's a stock MBW dial. The lume used is a Superluminova C3 from Tritec, mixed with bright orange lume also from RC Tritec (small amount of this one) then applied over MBW dial. To my surprise, the lume blends very well with that "darker" background. Please add a little bit of dilutor to the mix too so that it will mix nicely with base background thus creating that "vintage" effect. Don't overpaint the lume to the white area, it will turn out ugly. This is actually an unexpected result... Was experimenting with Tritec stuff. I would say that it's not overly vintagized but the colour is spot on if you compare it to the pearl. Takashi - Thanks, but what I really want to know is how you were able to create such accurate lines (edges) around each of the index markers? They do not look like you painted them by hand. What tool & procedure did you use to apply the lume? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takashi Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Hands! Yes, I use the black colour oiler to do the job. All lume stuff (varnish, dilutor, lume) comes from RC Tritec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Hands! Yes, I use the black colour oiler to do the job. All lume stuff (varnish, dilutor, lume) comes from RC Tritec. You have very talented (and steady) hands, Tak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takashi Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Thanks a lot for your compliment Freddy It's certainly can be still improved and machine applied lume will look much better. A big flaw here nevertheless is the brightness of the lume. It overpowers even the genuine modern Rolex with C1 lume Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Thanks a lot for your compliment Freddy It's certainly can be still improved and machine applied lume will look much better. A big flaw here nevertheless is the brightness of the lume. It overpowers even the genuine modern Rolex with C1 lume Yeah, I never understand why people use anything more luminescent than Bergeon lume paste (which glows very faintly, at best) or plain paint (no lume) on vintage pieces. After 30 or so years, the original tritium will have little or no glow at all. But I am still in awe of your application technique. Applying lume has never been 1 of my strong suits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
takashi Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 You can test it out on a cheap piece with Asian movement. This vintage watch costs you probably about 20 dollar. Indeed. The lume should not glow at all by this time. This watch is far from accurate from the genuine article but I intend to use it as a daily beater and I would like to have lume on it. Well, this maybe just the beginning of my quest in collecting vintage Rolex reps. Will probably create a 5513/12 in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugwash Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 I've got these two, but I seem to have lost the momentum to finish the projects. Gen crown, tube, tropic, pearl. Low-beat ETA 2846. Gen tropic, Watchmeister datewheel. I don't wear the 1680 for some reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris5264 Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 I don't wear the 1680 for some reason. I'll take it off your hand (or winder),,,,I need something to put on this post!!!! I've got the vintage bug very bad right now I don't have a single vintage watch at this moment and money in my watch account,,,something is wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmt Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 A very tasty collection you have Jojo!!! Here's a stock group shot of my vintage. Sadly my 5517 is all taken apart and going back into "the shop" for work That 5517 is too much, man! If I can ask, what did you use as the base for that? I am thinking of the same project myself. Did you use a 1520 cal. mvmnt? Which case is that-- an MBW 5512 case? I am dying to know the details? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmg Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 That 5517 is too much, man! If I can ask, what did you use as the base for that? I am thinking of the same project myself. Did you use a 1520 cal. mvmnt? Which case is that-- an MBW 5512 case? I am dying to know the details? Thanks for the compliment JMT. Here are some details on my 5517. It's a J&W 5517 Vietnamese case, NDT dial, CWP bezel and insert with gen lume pearl. It did have a 2846 ETA fitted with MkII Watches hands but there were problems with the movement alignment in the case and a lot of stress on the stem which started rubbing the dial paint at the 3 o'clock and I had to disassemble it. So it looks like a gen 1520 is my best option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmg Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 A new shot of my 1675 with the bezel shaved down next to an old friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Gorgeous pair TMG..... just love these two! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stilty Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 It did have a 2846 ETA fitted with MkII Watches hands but there were problems with the movement alignment in the case and a lot of stress on the stem which started rubbing the dial paint at the 3 o'clock and I had to disassemble it. So it looks like a gen 1520 is my best option Okay, if I understand correctly, the 1520 is a thinner movement than a 1570? Since it has the date disc holder removed? Am I correct? The 1520 sits deeper in the case? stem closer to dial? Which means, the 2846 is a nice replacement for the 1570 as the stem alignment is very close, but not a very good fit for the 1520 case. Your case is machined to accept a genuine 1520 movement, correct? So, if you don't want to spring $800+ for a 1520, how about you pick up an ETA 2801 mainplate, or a 2824-2 mainplate and drop all the 2846 parts into the replacement mainplate? This way you will have a thinner movement that will fit the case with better stem alignment, and it will still be a slow beat movement. You can also install a stop lever so the movement hacks, and convert to a two position stem. But before you go through all the trouble of rebuilding a movement, maybe test fit with a 2824-2 to see if it is a fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 Considering the level of work so far, I think the money spent on a 1520 would be well spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir-Lancelot Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 @ TMG How did you like the MkII Watches hands? Compared to say Clark's Tudor hands. Closer to gen or not worth the $45? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
addingwatch Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Anyone like gold??? My 1952 YG 6036. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Beautiful watch addingwatch. I love those v72's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 I prefer steel, but Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 @ addingwatch. Now thats what I call a watch. Fantastic, a work of art. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
addingwatch Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Actually, I picked it up five years ago, before I realized that there was great custom stuff. Two local autherized Rolex dealers have declared it authentic (with a 20 year old refinished dial). Always doubted, but never had the courage to send it to Rolex corporate. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
addingwatch Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Here is another of mine. 1958 Rolex YG 8171. The only vintage gold Rolex big enough to wear for modern times (38mm). It is also the first of the Rolex automatic movements. Regards. P.S. Don't worry... the movement was serviced and no longer dry as the pic shows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmg Posted July 12, 2008 Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 Okay, if I understand correctly, the 1520 is a thinner movement than a 1570? Since it has the date disc holder removed? Am I correct? The 1520 sits deeper in the case? stem closer to dial? Which means, the 2846 is a nice replacement for the 1570 as the stem alignment is very close, but not a very good fit for the 1520 case. Your case is machined to accept a genuine 1520 movement, correct? So, if you don't want to spring $800+ for a 1520, how about you pick up an ETA 2801 mainplate, or a 2824-2 mainplate and drop all the 2846 parts into the replacement mainplate? This way you will have a thinner movement that will fit the case with better stem alignment, and it will still be a slow beat movement. You can also install a stop lever so the movement hacks, and convert to a two position stem. But before you go through all the trouble of rebuilding a movement, maybe test fit with a 2824-2 to see if it is a fit. Stilty, I don't have the answers to those questions, I don't know that much about movements. I always send out these projects as I've wrecked too many movements doing simple tasks and now punt on anything mvmt and assembly related. Either way that's great info, but I'm inclined to pony up the money and drop a gen in there as Freddy said I have a lot invested already. Sir L, the MkII hands are nice but I really had no other options for sword hands for the ETA, they look real close, maybe a hair too long. I think the Clarks sub hands are fine and have used them on other projects. Oh and very nice vintage Addingwatch!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptolomeo Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Am I late? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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