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cjjoyce1

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Everything posted by cjjoyce1

  1. I read that article yesterday, pretty cool story. The way that rifle was casually propped against the tree like it's owner was gonna take a leak or something and then...? I'm surprised there were no dried bones or other evidence of remains nearby.
  2. Good catch, but I think he's matching his Viper driver patch. Wearing his colors per-se. Looks pretty sweet
  3. Q Branch is working on it 007...
  4. son.of.a.[censored]... I could have used this video about EIGHT FRIGGIN YEARS AGO!! hahahaa! But I don't think this is what the OP's problem is about. Ezio, if I understand what you are saying correctly, you can unscrew the stem, and wind the watch - pull the stem to the second position and set the date both without problems- but when you pull the stem to the third position to set the time, you can advance the time a little bit by a turn or two of the stem but then it "slips" and turning the the stem doesn't advance the time anymore until you either reset the stem to the winding position or wait a minute or two and try again. Did I get this right? If so, I suspect it's a problem with the setting wheel (part #36) and how it engages with the minute wheel (part 39) under the minute train bridge (part 42). It's a pesky little part that gets engaged by the corrector lever (part 5) of the keyless works. First of all, it's got a flat side and domed side that's not entirely obvious and thus it's installed in only one way. If it's put in upside down, you can have problems. Secondly, if the minute train bridge isn't tight or slightly off, you can have issues with it staying engaged to the minute wheel. Lastly, with clone movements I've seen quality/fitment issues between the setting wheel and minute wheel - or simply lack of lubrication - that causes these two to argue with each other. 2836-2.pdf This is where I would start if I read your problem correctly.
  5. Actually based on what I can make out from the balance shock Novodiacs (blurry pics), the top one is gen the bottom is clone. They also appear to be stamped 2824-2. From the pics you can make out a definite 4-2 on the top movement and the bottom one it seems like you can see the tops of a 2, 8, 2, unknown, and a 2.
  6. I find it interesting that here, several years after they were discovered we're still trying to call out clone movements based on stampings. KBH pointed it out - if you're going to make a snap judgement based on first glance, look at the shock springs. First of all, as mymanmatt's photo shows, if your movement has an Incabloc, it's gen, or one of the built-from-parts movements we saw several years ago. I've never come across a clone with Incabloc. Then, as KBH highlighted, the Novodiac's in the clones use the FHF Novodiac's NOT ETA's version as is easily seen in his pictures. If there is only one slot for the spring, it's an FHF version and an Asian Clone. http://www.ofrei.com/page1438.html In working on these movements you'll also find interesting differences from time to time. I once changed out the fourth wheel, canon pinion and hour wheel for an H5 and initially didn't pay close attention. When I was trying to regulate the movement, there was a huge difference between dial up and dial down timing. Couldn't figure out what was going on until I tore everything down again. The clone fourth wheel and the ETA were very different. I compared a gen H4, clone H4 and gen H5 fourth wheel. The two ETA's had a pronounced two stage diameter, the clone had a single thickness with a little collar at the end. What was going on was the clone's seconds tube did not have a smaller diameter end - which the gen does. So the gen fourth wheel when placed in a clone tube just slips through. In the dial down position it was just riding on the second wheel causing it to dramatically slow down. There are also finish issues (the balances on gen ETA's have a much higher polish), and parts issues (screws on clones aren't always right.) I think the OP's movement is gen ETA
  7. And.. it's safe for work viewing
  8. Smelling something fishy now....
  9. IMG_1130.MOV So what does one do with an old wand massager, a tea-ball, jelly mason jar, duct tape, and some L&R Cleaner? Why, make a redneck ultrasonic cleaner of course! http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/kk396/pc12drvr/th_IMG_1130_zps4enelon1.mp4
  10. Before I go dropping $50 can someone help a brother out? I tried fashioning one (o.k. a couple) out of toothpicks and even one from a hand pressing/staking bit, to no avail. This little jerk is driving me nuts. Does someone have one I can borrow - or even rent - to get this back in? Thanks for reading
  11. cjjoyce1

    6263

    DW's latest dials...or at least when I bought one just over a year ago, had the correct side by side holes. I guess our eyes all go to different places when looking for "tells". On any Rolex dial, mine always go to the coronet, especially on dials with metal ones. The rep ones are never right, some are close, but never right. The more rounded openings are such a giveaway, as are how the outer tine angles blend into the bottom. Compare this coronet to droptopman's above
  12. ^ This. I'll toss my experience into this thread too, for what it's worth. I started in the rep game about 10 years ago, and started modding a little while after that. What is interesting to me is that initially there was a divide between those in the know regarding modding, and those seeking that knowledge. There were closely held secrets and some mis-information out there that kept that divide and kept certain modders pockets lined. For example, a n00b question that got asked frequently several years ago was "can I replace my 21J movement with an ETA?" And the answer was resoundingly "no!". Well, [censored]. As the BK submariners with ladies sized ETA's should have proved to the world - with the right movement holder, spacer ring, overlay and hands you can pretty much do whatever you want. And by snipping the dial feet, re-gluing the DWO, right dial spacer, and putting on the correct size hands, yes Virginia, an ETA can be swapped just fine into your 21J watch. In fact, it was sort of a joke to me how after building several franken Datejusts with gen everything but movement and going back and forth between the 2824 and 2836 and the slight stem height issues (easily remedied with a slight tweek here or there) how a DG just dropped into my 1675 build like it was factory. I'm a hands on person in both learning and doing. I've built, modded, frankened, lumed, you-name-it, many different watches. What I've seen in the last 3 or 4 years is a pulling back the curtain to reveal Oz, and that's a great thing. Building a franken used to be shrouded in mystery and today there are step by step threads on how to do it. Bravo! There are many side by side comparisons of rep vs. rep, rep vs. gen, etc. Fantastic! There are many people who worked hard to discover this information and went the extra mile to post this wealth of knowledge so the rest of us could learn the truth! And there has always been the people who don't want to take the time to access the information readily available for the looking. I haven't been around much in the last year or so, mainly because my collection was done. It's interesting to come back and see what the latest hot new build is (or not) and how this hobby keeps chugging along.
  13. cjjoyce1

    6263

    A gen coronet on the dial would be good too. Also, a heads up on the NYWatchGuy bezel, pop yours off and make sure it looks like the one on the right, and not the left! Otherwise, a good deal of grinding is in your future...
  14. Saw some previous posts about rep cases fitted for 3035 vs 3135 working with these, but does anyone know if this will work in a gen 16013 case?
  15. If the error you're talking about is the case and the cut-out in the inner ring behind the balance wheel for the microstellar adjustment tool - it's hard to see in both cases, but it is there. These both look fine to me.
  16. There is an adjustment lug on the date jumper #7955 on the 15XX series movements. If the jumper is worn or the lug is out of adjustment, the date won't align correctly. Freddy posts a pic of this spring with lug at the end of this short thread. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/163177-date-wheel-alignment/
  17. Honestly depending on the level you are going for, these are the easiest builds by far. There are a few members who have links to tutorials in their signatures. If you are capable of gluing a datewheel overlay (DWO) on straight and have general assembly/disassembly skills you can build one yourself easy-squeezy. The important ingredient is the high pinion movement so the hands will clear the markers without being bent up. I've built a dozen or so over the last several years, there's nothing to it.
  18. www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/29_ETA2801.2-ETA2836.2.pdf Start by replacing part numbers 2784 and 462 - BE SURE TO SPECIFY YOUR MODEL! As they are different between the calibers
  19. Simple answer - no, you cannot use a 15 series case to build a 16 series watch. Again, a simple search will tell you what you need to know about case sizes, lug width's etc,
  20. 16XX = 1570/1560 movement slowset 160XX = 3035 quickset 162XX = 3135 quickset.
  21. Datejust reference numbers don't identify the dial used, only bezel type, metal, and crystal. This is what's known as a Buckley dial.
  22. AH!HAHAHA! I had this loaded up in my auctionsniper too! I pulled out though not because it isn't gen, but because it's a re-dial. It's a well done re-dial IMHO (from what I've read and seen the starburst is difficult to do right), but I just kept going back to the font thickness. When you compare this side by side with original dials, the printing on the originals is thinner and gives it a very different look. I want to build a 16XX and this caught my eye, but I think it looks too modern. Fantastic price to the winning bidder
  23. From the "VIP's all new Bar Guide" published in 1960 (and whose guidance is also backed up by my copies of The Mr. Boston and the Playboy bartenders guides of the same era) It should also be noted that the cocktails and drink recipes in this guide call for 1 to 1.5 ounce pours such as the classic martini "One Jigger (1.5 oz) Gin, 1/2 oz of dry French vermouth shaken over ice and garnished with an olive..." Or the classic Manhattan "One jigger whiskey, 1/2 jigger of sweet vermouth, dash of bitters served over ice with a cherry." These aren't the 3 to 5 ounce drinks places are pouring today.
  24. Thanks guys!
  25. Hi gents. A friend of mine queried me about a vintage Omega military issue watch that would have been a manual wind and available to the South Vietnamese Army forces. He said his father in law ( a South Vietnamese soldier) had one during the war and was looking to find another. Any thoughts on which model this may be? Thanks in abvance
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