cjjoyce1

....Drool

NIce job! Now just advance that 24hr hand one hour and it'll be even better!

Ah. Certain bubblewrap can outgas and cause plasticizer migration. It will react with the paint and. well, you see the results. Does the lacquer have any ghosting patterns when seen from a certain angle? I'd show the dial over at VRF. There are a couple well respected refinishers over there thay may help you out.

I think you are missing how this works. The watch must be set to local time and the bezel rotated to the appropriate UTC conversion. So..... Since a picture is worth 1000 words. 8PM In New York is also 3PM in Honolulu and 2AM in Paris and 5AM in Moscow and 10am in Tokyo BUT each set time shows the 24hr hand pointing at 0100Z which is correct for each (Paris isn't +2 BTW)

Yup. So you rotate the bezel to represent the 2nd time zone you want to track. Since I'm on the East coast and we are -5hr/GMT right now, my bezel is turned so 5 is at the 12 o'clock position. It's 14:12 right now and my 24hr hand is pointing at just past the 7 position on the dial, but just past 19 on the bezel and thus accurately representing 1912z. If I go to Chicago, I would roll the time back an hour on the watch but also roll the bezel back so 6 was at the 12 o'clock position and thus 13:12 CST is still 1912z.

Because the 1575 movement 24 hour hand is not independently settable and every gen 1675 has the 24hr hand in set in normal sync with the time - i.e. at midnight all hands are pointing at 12 and at noon the hr and min hand are up at 12 while the 24hr hand is at 6 and so forth. Seeing a 1675 with the hands any other way either says your watch is fake or you put the hands on wrong. To the OP, I have the DG movement and for whatever reason, mine does NOT have an independently settable GMT hand which is perfect in my book. I use mine per gen - I set the watch to the local time and rotate the bezel to reflect UTC.

Check out seller "buncha2499" on ebay. Even though they may look like stock photos, they are of the actual band you'll get. Very reasonable. I've bought two from him and have been extremely happy with what arrived and the 20mm strap fit my Rolex buckle. If you don't see what you want/like, keep checking his auctions - he adds new items all the time.

I agree with fxrandy. Too many people go for the overly aged look and it never looks right. You can put a case in a can of abusive articles and shake it up, but that's what the end result looks like too. It looks artificial because the details are wrong - the lugs are still fat as are the crown guards, there are still bevels on the edges, etc. Get a can of mag wheel polish available at any auto parts dept or store. I like Mother's. Also get some super fine grit Emory cloth. Then wear your watch doing every nasty job and project you can were you might normally think "oh, I should take off my watch or it'll get scratched". Work on your vehicle, clean your furnace, build something, clear brush, dig a ditch, etc. Then, when you are done, use the emory cloth to sand out the scratches and the mag wheel polish to buff it up. Both of these are aggressive and you'll get the desired look without the artificial look in no time!

I'll see your Datejust and raise you one.

But Freddy, I don't have any 1570 experience (but a lot of ETA and DG), but there is a date jumper part (#7955?) on a 1570 with a little stud that rides between the teeth of the date wheel. On an ETA movement if the date jumper spring (#2784) is weak or worn, the date won't flip correctly or crisply and the date can be off in the window because of the spring. Couldn't this be the case on a 1570?

One of the latest DG editions I recently fitted into my franken (didn't hit the old one with a hammer, though) does not have an adjustable GMT hand feature, just quickset date. Thought that was interesting.

Totally agree with Akira and the suggestion to cut down the rep crown, and it's so easy to do. I used a gen 703 tube on my 5512, but after reading that other people had reworked their rep crowns, I gave it a go. The coronet on the crown is pretty darn good too. I liked it so much I swapped it on my 16610. I also agree about the cost of the 702. But quite frankly, I've become so skeptical lately on crowns that if they ain't got crimps and bi-metal design, I stay away. Too many folk passing off rep crowns for gen monoblocs. Early 703's have a slightly skinnier profile too.

When did you swap in the small arrow?

Precisely, which has caused others to wake up, and look around and start doing the same thing themselves. Just 4-5 years ago, a stainless steel 16XX Datejust used to go for $900-1100 for a beater and even nice ones weren't more than twice that. Today, they start around 12-1500 WITHOUT bracelets. Hoarding is driving up the pricing in my opinion. And now that those prices are too high, they've moved on to the Air Kings and Date models. Need a spare 1570 movement? Pirate it out of a cheaper model!

The idea in moving the hour hand is that if you set both hands at Midnight and they aren't perfectly on straight you won't get any "top of the hour"s that look right. So if you move the hour until it is perfectly pointing at 6 or 9 or 3 (or whatever fancies you other than 12) you can perfectly position the minute hand to point at 12 and that way every hour will look perfect when it is exactly that time.

Yup, that's a gen with a gen Mk1 dial. Do not attempt yourself, my friend.

Ummm. A PAM026 is a lefty wind watch. Your first and third pics clearly show the seconds pinion protruding from the plate. And finally, your dial fits exactly as it's intended. Perhaps you should research your watch a bit more http://watchworx.blogspot.com/2011/04/latest-panerai-pam-026-luminor-marina.html

162XX are sapphire crystal cases. What is the bezel from? If it's from a 16XX or 16XXX it won't work as these are acrylic crystal cases and have different ID as well as height dimensions.

Looks can be deceiving Look carefully at the two bridges. The SA3135 isn't a true double bridge and the shock protection and timing system are the current asian offering being neither incabloc nor novodiac.

Do you grill with the lid open? Or closed?

As these are just overlays, they can be used on any movement

^ This When I go to work, sometimes I have to take my belt off, sometimes not. Depends on how sensitive they've got the metal detectors. As far as the body scanners go, they work in multiple ways usually just in metal and x-ray mode. Ever felt air being puffed on you in one of these? Sniffing for explosive agents. 99% of the time, they've got the metal detection toned down enough for basic jewelery and watches to go through without needing to be removed, too much theft happens otherwise.

Before you took it apart, when you moved the GMT hand, did it jump hour to hour or move like a normal hour/minute hand? If it didn't jump, the gear wasn't seated properly. Hopefully, your bending the washer will solve it.

GMT hand is fine, so are the crown guards. Nice long "E" dial too. A movement shot is the only thing missing, but given the dial close-up a few things are apparent - the hand sizes and pinion heights are correct for a 1575 movement. The hour hand is tracking properly for a non-settable too (notice in a couple shots the time is about 5pm and the GMT hand is nearly pointing at 5 on the bezel, in another it's nearly 3 am and the date advanced to 29, and the GMT hand is nearly at 3, then in another it's 3:15pm and the GMT is just past 15) To me the biggest tell once you get beyond the usual spots is the base of the GMT hand. On gen's with 1575 movements it's always substantially larger than on aftermarket hands, and because of the hand sizes 80/120/170/20 versus say a DG3804 at 100/150/200/17 or ETA 90/150/170/25 the gen 1575 hour hand pinion is smaller making the pinion plate of the 170 gmt hand look huge comparatively. Compare my pinon to the sale pics and you'll see what I mean - mine is all gen but the hands and DG3804 beating inside.

Well it wouldn't work if P.T. Barnum's adage of "there's a sucker born every minute" didn't apply