tomhorn

Keep in mind Ruby's dials are made for use with gen Rolex movements, so you'll be cutting dial feet if you are using ETA or Chinese movements.

I think she goes by Mary Watch now, but used to be Watch International. She is a TD here. Many of us have bought her 7836 for 1016's. For the money it's hard to beat. I coupled it with 580 endlinks from WSO on my 1016, but I used a gen 16014 case. Not sure if they are the best for a JMB, although I'm sure someone here will know.

Mary's 7836 is the best value for the money.

Must admit I am dealing with mostly vintage Rolex builds, so not always in tune with knowing all the factories. Having said that, I don't recall ever hearing of anything called "NY Factory". Regardless, you never buy a watch directly from the factory, you buy it through a dealer. We have a number of trusted dealers here that can normally get access to anything. If you want to clarify what you are looking for (specific watch) you might get some more help, or better yet, do a search for the model you are looking for. There will likely be posts that will point you toward the best version for that particular model. Good luck with your search!

I don't know much about these to know if it's any good or not, but Ruby does have one posted. Assume it's a Viet dial on a Singer plate. http://rubyswatch.com/products/t1-|-vintage-|-monte-carlo-|-dial-1641

Hasn't been around for a while.

Well, Cwazy was on RWI ... I've heard that misiekped does lume here in the US although I haven't used him personally for lume. Have used him for movement service and builds, and he's great. However, since I notice you are across the pond, I'd go with Domi based on the reviews I've seen of his work.

1) PBdad did my 1016 dial and Cwazy did my 5514. Unfortunately, both of them are long gone. Only other person I have used for lume was Vac, who did my 3717. 2) I went with the TC hands. I had a set of Clarks to use originally, but got tipped off to the TC hands and swapped at the last minute. In one of your posts on the subject from 2015, you landed on the Helenarou hands as a viable option. 3) Not sure there is a question here. I always thought the gen 160xx cases were better that the 162xx cases for a 1016, but if you've had the latter re-shaped, then I would use it myself. 4) If you go with the 16200, then you could use the SH3135, or ETA 2824/Selita SW200 (granted, incorrect beat rates though). I think JMB was also recommending the Felsa 4000 as an alternative in his case, but you'd be gluing the dial to the movement. IIRC, mymanmatt said the ETA 2789 would fit in the JMB case. You can get the Yuki dial with ETA feet. Unfortunately, the 2846 I used won't work for you. Good luck!

My 16014 project is linked in my signature below. Answers the 160xx questions. I haven't done a 16xx project, so can't help you there.

There are plenty of trusted dealers with their own sections linked on the homepage (Watches, Clothing, Parts and Accessories). Start your research there.

My build is linked below in my signature. 1016's are a great first build project for people (along with DJ's). A lot of different ways to do them, from cheap to expensive.

I would bet Noob improves the dial and insert first. v2 .... :)

Plenty of discussions on this already. Short version is the movement is a great leap forward on the Noob, but the watch is let down by things like the dial and bezel insert. The ARF version is more accurate visually, but the movement isn't the same. IIRC, people have said you can't take this movement and swap to the ARF case directly, but it might be possible by modifying the case.

I used an Athaya 702 crown/tube in my 5514 HH case, which installed directly without retapping. He also made a 702 tube which worked with a gen crown that also fit. Misiekped built it for me and reported no issues with the 2846 fitment other than he didn't use the HH movement ring. I'm sure there are plenty of members here that would buy the HH case from you (including me). It was easily the best option besides Phong when it came out. I'd love to take a crack at a pre-Comex 5513 with it.

Here comes the next great project from the mind of Ubi .... :)

I was fortunate to avoid some of your issues by using a gen 16014 case (with JMB bezel) and Whoopy dial. The 2846 fit and the dial was easily positioned. Not so easy now given the lack of availability of parts ... :)

You could also have made it easier by using a dial that had ETA feet ... like Whoopy's if you could have found one ....

Depends on the construction of the rep, and the tolerances therein. With many reps, simply disassembling, lubing and replacing the gaskets can get you a long way. With others, I still wouldn't swim with them even after doing that.

Just as I have issue with people who are not Americans trying to tell "us" how to live or what's best for our country, I also won't begin to try to tell people in other countries the same. When you don't have the proper frame of reference it's impossible. I think there are some good things about the EU (the ease of being able to work), but from an American point of view there are a lot of things I wouldn't want for my county (for example the extra layer of overbearing regulations that MOAB mentioned). Still, it's not for me to say if it's best for those in Europe, as I lack the proper context to do so. We had a President and Congress that for the better part of eight years tried to move us toward being "Europe West" and found that the people opposed it so much we ended up with Trump (MAGA) as President. It was actually Brexit that foreshadowed the Trump victory. Whether it ends up being the catalyst for the rest of the EU to break up remains to be seen, but the countries involved will have to figure out what's best for them.

Sead1999 (Supermirrors) regularly keeps stock in the UK and will ship from there.

Having spent many years as a commercial photographer, I can tell you without question the camera lies frequently. And that was even before Photoshop, which upgrades the quality of the lies by an order of magnitude ...

Without seeing a straight on shot it's hard to tell for sure, but it looks like the printing on the 6 o'clock subdial is off square by a couple of degrees to the left (counter clockwise).

Yes, Daytonas are supposed to have asymmetrical pushers.

Useful thread.

Yep, ... assuming it's the yellow gold bezel ... but do what makes you happy wearing it .... you can always change it later ....