tomhorn

Not really period "correct". You're mixing a 16013 dial and crown with a 16030 bezel and 1604 bracelet. That's the great thing about DateJusts, you can mix and match to come up with anything you like. I put a 16234 dial in my 16014 build and never looked back. Nice build!

I have a 6.75" wrist, and love my 6263 and IWC 3717. I also have an Accutron 26C02 gen, which sits quite nicely. IMO, as long as you stay at 42mm and below, you'll be fine.

+1 Cromag, Rule #1 should be "Patience!" Patience with TD's, patience with shipping, patience with emails, patience with PM's, patience when shopping for parts, patience with message board responses, patience when selling, patience when buying .... Rule #2 should be "Don't be an a$$!" Do what you say you're going to do, be honest when buying and selling, don't waste member's time, do your own research before asking for help, don't charge back transactions, understand that stuff happens in this hobby and don't over react when it does .... Once you past those two, everything else becomes easy ...

My rule when buying a rep was to wear it for a couple of months to determine if it was a keeper, and then get it serviced. Every rep, no matter what the movement. They are all dirty out of the factory. For my builds I also always had the movement serviced during the build, even if it game out of a gen watch. And it's not just reps. If you buy a gen with an automatic movement you are still going to have to get it serviced periodically, so if you are worried about that extra cost, then stick to quartz. Batteries are cheap.

The date wheel doesn't look like a gen ETA date wheel, but if this came out of a watch that doesn't necessarily mean it's a clone.

The SH3135 is the equivalent of the Yuki, and the much better option as it will also take more genuine parts to repair and/or make it better. Although it could take gen dial and hands and somewhat resembled one, the SA3135 was not IMO as good of a clone of the 3135. Plenty of threads here on the differences between the two movements. Ultimately, if it's a closed caseback watch and you're not using gen dial or hands, as many others have said, the ETA movements are the best. Easier to find parts and someone to work on them.

I agree. Goes for posts on the message board itself also. If a question has been asked and answered here many times, then I (at best) might suggest they do some searching, and provide a link to a post or two to get them started. Never ceases to amaze me when people ask me a question about one of my builds that I answered ... you know ... in the build thread ... which is linked in my signature. On the other hand, I am happy to help people that have clearly done their homework, or were asking for clarification on something that's been posted. We were all noobs once, but even when I was a noob, I at least tried to figure something out on my own before asking the stupid question.

The gen 7835's aren't that much money if you shop around. That's what I did for my DW cased 6263 (just looked through my notes, can't believe I only paid $180 back then). Seems like nobody wants the 19mm bands ... I bought one of Mary's 7836's which was great for the money. Not sure if she has a 7835, but you might want to check.

The 1601 would have open 6's and 9's, so a 3135 DW would not be period correct. MyManMatt has a very nice datewheel overlay that would be better.

Plenty of build threads here for DateJusts (for example, my 16014 is linked below). Do your research and then come back with questions, as the answers will be different depending on which model you are building.

The movement won't be the call-out with a closed caseback watch. With a 2824 you would likely need to use the H4 cannon pinion setup to get the hands to the right height. This of course assumes the case you are using is built for a 3135 or 2824 to begin with. Your other option would be to use the sh3135, which given a proper service would be more reliable than the "clone" 3135.

Ephry73 is correct. It won't fit. You would need a 162xx case to use a 3135 (clone or gen). The 3035 is thicker above the stem position, and therefore the 3135 stem will be in the wrong spot to fit your case.

Two quick suggestions: 1) Lifetime membership price. 2) I think the sales section is a bit awkward. Appears there are two posts for every sale, one "advert" and one "post". Additionally, the "New ads from our Classifieds section" can be deleted. Last post there was 2/10/17.

Watches will always sell when priced right, so if it hasn't sold yet, there's the reason. Unfortunately, if you're talking about the Omega, you have posted a non-functioning watch for sale. Those are always tough sells, as anyone who can't do the work themselves isn't going to want to take a chance or deal with trying to get it fixed. Limits the pool of buyers.

I'm not all that familiar with the cartel 6263, but would this not work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dial-for-Seagul-ST1903-movement-daytona-style-30-5-mm/122608492669?hash=item1c8c09207d:g:H98AAOSwN9tZcOPO

Ranier has been well received in these parts. http://www.network54.com/Forum/353393/thread/1263143008/last-1263143008/FS-+HIGH+QUALITY+WATCH+BOXES+available+in+CARBON+FIBE R,+MACASSAR,+WALNUT,+POPLAR,+REDWOOD or he is also finestboxes on eBay https://www.ebay.com/sch/finestboxes/m.html?_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1 Also, member Donerix 2.0

It's all about the speculators now. It will remain volatile for the foreseeable future. Not sure if it's passed by the time where significant gains could still be made. It's a big risk whether you are buying or trying to short it (yes there are ways to speculate without even owning any now). Sort of reminds me of how the financial crisis started, with financial institutions creating investment products out of thin air (naked CDS's for example). The technology is disruptive and has other uses besides "currency", but I don't hold much long-term hope for wide-spread adoption (as in widespread use of the crypto currency to pay for things directly). The reality is that governments will not allow the usurping of their fiat currencies for much longer. Some have already started regulating or banning them altogether. Even had one country come up with a pseudo version of its own. What could happen is that a country or two whose currency is basically worthless outside its borders (Venezuela, North Korea) might embrace it and provide payment processing infrastructure, but then you'd still be at the mercy of your local government declaring it illegal to buy/sell goods with it. I personally started buying NVDA awhile back because their cards are used for mining (and also for autonomous car technology). Although not as big a home run as the early buyers or miners are seeing (bought at an average of around $28 and now it's hovering around $200), it's been profitable and significantly safer. Unfortunately now, the craziest speculation I have seen is for BitCoin to get to $100k USD at some point. Well, that's less than a 10x return at today's prices, best case. I'm almost there with NVDA, and they are an actual company with products to sell with $6 billion in cash on the books.

Member Misiekped can also service gen Rolex.

Check my Daytona build thread linked below. I listed a bunch of watches with v72's. Use them for search terms and you can sometimes find watches where the seller doesn't know what they have.

For those that don't know, there is an extension for Chrome that will show all Photobucket pictures. Search for "Photobucket Hotlink Fix".

There's a 94 serial not quite as nice for sale on TRF for $6,250, and a much nicer conditioned one with full box and papers for $6,900 on Watchuseek.

Several people have put a 1570 in a JMB case. Here's one thread for example. Having said that, I would check with JMB. I wasn't sure from reading his last thread if the new batch of cases he just received are exactly the same as the last time he was doing them.

Mine were both still in watches. Couldn't tell you the eBay seller as it's been so long since I bought them. I used Misiekped for my 5514 build. Highly recommended.

I have used two of the "Swiss Military" 2846's. Had them both serviced and have had no issues. There was an eBay seller in the Philippines that always had several of them listed. Think I paid less than $50 each including shipping to the US.

The important words in the story were "percentage of the proceeds". Not all. We also don't know where the buyer lived (or at least I haven't seen it in any of the stories) so there may or may not have been a tax break helping along the deal. Even if they were US-based. they are only getting a deduction of about 20% if the buyer is the typical person with that much scratch hanging around. And an extra couple of million to someone who can afford a $17 million watch is nothing. Probably only covers the buyer's premium. Still a lot of money for a watch. Given this is THE watch that led to coining the phrase "Newman Daytona" and if you are a serious watch collector with the means, what else would you want to buy? If I had the money to play in that stratosphere, I wouldn't care how much it was. And yes, you are a cynic. There is no "scamming the rest of us". Just someone (or a company) with a lot of disposable income. All the better if some of that money goes to charity. It's not like the Newman Estate really needs it. I'm sure the kids are all fine.