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tomhorn

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Everything posted by tomhorn

  1. I used the WSO 580 "fat springbar" end links with Mary's 7836 without issue.
  2. I used a 2824-2 with H4 canon pinion in my gen 16014 case for my DJ build. Raffle's #2 ring worked. Wish Stilty still made his, as they were perfect. I later used a 2846 in another gen 16014 case for my 1016 build, and that turned out fine too. Just a matter of what you want to do.
  3. Still around, but life is completely nuts. I'm up to juggling four companies, and soon to be a fifth. Fortunately, I'm single. No wife, no kids, no dog, so it makes it easier to manage. Entertaining offers on my largest company and expecting I will let it go sometime later this year. Will give me enough money to retire, or more properly just let me work when I feel like it. State of my collection is stagnant. I don't have much time to partake in the hobby much anymore. still lurking around here, but not posting much. Haven't built anything new for a long time. Thinking about downsizing the reps, and maybe buying a nice gen. Hate that my projects spend most of their time in the watch box ... Have to admit, I miss Ubi and The Zigmeister. Loved the insight and detail in their posts. Ubi's projects started me down the path of doing builds, and I'm lucky to have something in my collection that The Zigmeister worked on.
  4. TheSociety over on RWI started a pretty extensive thread about Vintage Daytonas. https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/vintage-watches/281796-let-s-talk-vintage-daytonas-with-thesociety-friends I bought my v72 based 6263 from a fellow member in 2015, and am thankful I did it back then. Couldn't come close to duplicating it now for what I have in it.
  5. I used Mary's 7836 and WSO's 580 endlinks. Good combination for not a lot of $$$.
  6. Was a surprise to me too, but was stated by the OP, and I'm not around as much as I used to be. Here's a profile of the one you did for my 16014 case.
  7. Afraid unless someone else has found his original supplier, since TC is long ago gone from the rep scene, the only way to get them now is with an M2M sale.
  8. You may want to review my thread (linked below) for building a 160xx cased 1016 Explorer. Has the complete parts list of what I used. Too bad that JMB isn't still doing custom bezels. His fit perfectly on a gen T22. Losing that resource and Whoopy's dials makes the 1016 Explorer builds a little trickier than they used to be.
  9. My MBW with the 580 end links from WSO.
  10. That would be correct. Different subdial spacing.
  11. The El Premero based movement (Rolex 4030) went in the later Daytonas (16520), not the 6263.
  12. I got mine from MyManMatt. https://rwg.cc/profile/43828-mymanmatt/
  13. I'm not a fan of WSO for anything other than end links. I would contact riyi002 and ask him about his available options (he doesn't post everything). And when you order, just ask him for the "branded" band and your will get the Rolex version. If you search his name here (or on other forums) you will get plenty of info on his stuff.
  14. Link isn't working, but riyi002 has always been the go-to guy for two-tone bracelets. https://www.ebay.com/sch/riyi002/m.html
  15. I've been here for over 11 years now. Hard to believe it's been that long. My first rep was an Eddie Lee 3717, although I din't buy it directly from him. I have a DW cased 6263, a WM9 16610 LV from BK and bought/sold pieces and parts from a lot of the "old timers" here. Wish Ubi was around more (although he still stops by now and then). His builds were legendary. Also wish The Zigmeister was still doing work. Great craftsman. I consider myself fortunate to have a piece he worked on in my collection.
  16. Could also check with Whoopy to see if he could provide drawings. His dials were very good.
  17. Member Misiekped is in NY, and great. He can do gen Rolex movements.
  18. Assuming you are talking about a 1016 ..... if you were lucky enough to find a gen case, you'd be looking in the $6,000-$10,000 range for the case. The last one I saw for sale several years ago was $6,000 for just the midcase and caseback (no crown, tube, bezel or crystal) and it was pretty beat up. The 7836 bracelet is more readily available, and you would be in the $1,000 range. At that point you might just as well go gen.
  19. I have built all of my frankens using ETA movements. Never felt the need to use gen movements where they couldn't be seen. The cost didn't seem to be a value add for me. Total cost would make selling the watch more difficult on the back end as well. A lot fewer buyers once you cross the four figure threshold. I'm also in a position where I don't have anyone to leave the watches to when I am no longer of this world, so now I'm even contemplating selling them off and picking up a gen or two instead. At least a gen would be easy for my estate to dispose of when the time comes.
  20. Which case? Different people have different specialties. If you do a search on the watch you want worked on, you will probably find someone who has done it.
  21. Hess Fine Art is a very reputable seller here in St. Pete. Have been to their store several times.
  22. Part of that would depend on which version of the BK Sub you have (there were three). The last version was IIRC about $575 for the base watch. The added parts would have brought you up to close to $1,000 all-in at the time. Now the bad .... You have a TC bracelet you say has some damage (and from the one picture we can see doesn't fit particularly well), a damaged dial, and it either runs poorly or you've made a bad joke about that. You also have more competition for quality 16610's available new (JF), and any TC v6 or V7 that's out there will be better overall. Given the condition you are stating your watch is in currently, you are probably in the $600-$700 range (assuming this is a v3 with the ETA 2824).
  23. I think much of it still holds true. The best base watch to start is either the BK WM9 or TC. They are just tougher to find because they are no longer made. If you don't want to go that route, then the JF or ST cases are the most reasonable base to start from. IF you pick up an entire JF, you would get the SH3135, and then you could use gen hands (solving one of your stated issues), and gen DW.
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