kbh

Where are you going to find Rolex parts for a brand new model watch, since Rolex doesn't sell them without getting the old part back in exchange? There's not going to be hardly any used parts available and new ones are way too expensive. Trying to franken a DJ2 is a fools errand when nobody even knows if any of the gen parts will fit, which I doubt.

NICE. You need to add Lume-tec.

That whole ceramic bezel and pearl is such an awful design for an alleged "tool watch". Not that a real diver would ever wear one anyway. Even on reps people are constantly complaining about losing the pearl.

That's a Rolex dw used as an overlay. You can buy Rolex aftermarket dw's from lots of dealers like WSO on eBay.

Baby blue dial and baby poop bezel...........

And down again...........

I agree with TH. That's your best bet for a great TT DJ.

Champagne is the correct color date wheel on a TT or FG datejust/DayDate. Even a white dial.

You're about 5 years too late. They were all shut down long ago. Blue Fakes and Zenith Motor almost got me. I thank the forums for saving me....

Bk's Sub is one of the few that will take a gen crystal. But check with Bert first before you buy it to make sure.

If you are asking "Are reps right for me?", you already know the answer. No!

Listen to Alligoat. Unfortunately 99% of replica Sub cases don't take gen crystal. Of course, to be sure, you've have to try it.

I have not idea if they are even available, but if you find a GMT hand set with longer mounting tubes, please let me know. You may need to change the seconds wheel from your old movement.

Too bad but you probably needed a new movement anyway. A quick Google of "quartz running backwards" says it was probably a bent stator which is pretty hard to fix for an amateur and most smiths would just change the movement.

The battery will only work one way.

Thanks Fraggle, that's what I meant to say. I apologize.. I guess I got a little worked up over your watchmaker's attitude.

What do you mean the whole movement is "crocked". These movements aren't rocket science. They've been made the same same for almost a century and they are child's play for a decent watchmaker. Worst case scenario is you have it either fully serviced for less that $100 or you have a simple fix for less than that. Or you replace the movement, which would be a waste of money in almost all cases for ETA or ETA clone movements since they are repairable. I consider myself a watch repair idiot and I can fix most simple ETA clone movements. When you take your car in because it's not running right and needs a tune up, do you accept the guy telling you "the whole engine's crocked" and you need a new engine? I sure as hell wouldn't. I'd want to know what is "crocked" or why it's "totally wasted". My whole point is, that movements don't get "crocked" or "wasted" from shipping. I sure as hell wouldn't accept that as an answer from a legitimate watch maker. Maybe he doesn't work on clones or maybe he just wants to replace the whole movement? Or maybe you're looking for getting a new gen ETA movement cheap. I don't know but I'm pretty sure someone is full of crap. So you're going to spend $250 to repair something that probably has a minor problem when the new movement only costs around $60 and takes maybe 20 minutes to replace? And the original cost of the watch was what? With a clone movement, probably less than the cost of repair. Sorry, hate to be so negative, but I'd just accept the watch back. Anyway, good luck with solving the problem. Sounds like you guys have worked it out.

I don't understand how a totally working Asian clone ( or any movement) becomes "totally wasted" by shipping. That makes absolutely no sense. Personally, I'd nave him ship it back and have it fixed by somebody that's a real watchmaker. Movements don't become "totally wasted" by shipping them.

Here's what I have on the rep SD insert that I took off. Should be close enough to tell you what you have. 36.4 OD 29.8 ID 3.5 width Edit: The numbers don't add up correctly since the actual width of the insert is different due to the angle of the insert. Measuring it sitting on a flat surface it's 3.33 width. Also not using a digital caliper.

The Swiss movement in the first rep I ever bought was a 2834-2 in a DJ from around 2009. At least you know that they never intentionally stamped a clone with 2834-2.

Hmmm! Were did all the negativity go? Be a man and don't delete your post when somebody shows you MIGHT be wrong.

That sticker means nothing. If he pulls off that sticker and it has a legitimate Swiss brand name underneath, someone is going to have to eat humble pie. And the Incabloc and rotor bearings look awful similar to me. Just an older model Swiss. Here's one from an rep of mine that had a Rolex sticker on it:

I bought a gen SD insert for $150 a couple of years ago. They aren't that rare. But I doubt if you'll lose money on it if you just sell it.

I think you have a gen Sea Dweller insert.

Another reason I think it's an ETA is,assuming it's not a sticker, the printing on the rotor is so crisp and the letters are very close together like a gen. The clones have much more space between the letters. Look at a clone and the difference is easily seen. Also, the latest close up of the ETA logo pretty much confirms it to me. It's quite distinct and clear unlike most clones. Clone logo: ETA logo: