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Typical of Silix, it's a little bit undersized, it should be 36mm, but basically it's the mens model. 34mm is the size for the Rolex Date watch. The mid size Rolex is 30-31mm. Ladies is 26mm.

The C in 25-295 C2 is for Cyclops with the #2 gasket. There's 25-295-1 for a Daytona- no cyclops, and 25-295-C1 for like a Datejust.

Good points panerai! Pretty much an admission of guilt on the part of the seller. I like this line- it's definitely a 'look out' line "I bought a large inventory of watch staffs from a retired watch maker, specialized in premium watch brand and vintage watches" The great thing about retired watchmakers is either they're dead or you can't find them- chances are they never existed!

Looks good to me, original bezel insert, nice dial, a side pic of the crown would tell you if it's the correct older tall crown.

I'd have to go along with the VFR guys since they do study these watches more than I do. I've never heard of some one over in Europe making high quality fakes, but it is possible. What we see is the stuff coming out of Vietnam, Thailand, China, and Taiwan.

All 4 of mine say REGISTERED, SWISS MADE. But they are 93150s ranging from a VD code on a 1680 (1979, I believe), a G code on a 16800, an O5 and an S5. The last one may be a service clasp and probably the latest since it has the lines thru the flip lock safety clasp.

Thanks for the write-up R!

When Phil Mickelson plays golf, he's always wearing a Rolex! But if his has a problem, I'm sure Rolex just gives him a new one! But these watches are shock protected, so they should be able to take it. If it's an Asian 21 j, you're on your own anyway- there is no warranty! Might be a good idea to take it off.

Looking good! Is that an old silver dial that's turned beige? I've got a 16014 franken with a similar dial- was silver originally and turned beige On the right in this pic I built another DJ in gold with parts from Matt- really happy with it gen white dial fr Yuki and the case etc was from Matt, used an old Asian eta that I had lying around I love it when you can build these cool reps for not much money!

Same old fat and stubby crown guards. Crown may or may not be too tall (thick). Pretty deep rehaut A slow beat movement would be better Seems like JJ improved the case by trimming the case at the tube, therefore setting the crown closer to the case, worked the cgs inside and out and shortened the crown- turned the bottom in a lathe. But if you're just looking for a beater, it might be ok- who questions a Tudor?

I put the taller crystal on my PT GWSD and I'm happy with it.

Nice list of parts! Looks good. Some 580 or 585 end links might look better on the bracelet and you could trim the insides of the crown guards- straighten them up a little. For the dial- you can go to Vintage Rolex Forum and look at their dials and see which dial yours is closest to.

WOW! R, that is a beauty. And now you can proudly display the moniker, "No genuine parts were harmed in building this watch" The WM pearl looks great, guess I need to buy one for the old Euromariner.

Excellent! A three tick gen dial- is that a MK1?

beautiful build, congrats! one minor thing though, your insert predates your case- when the no lughole case came out, Rolex changed to the skinny 4 in 40 on the insert. But I've seen MK1 LVs with the fat 4 and maybe it's the same with the 16613.

16610 and 16600 pearls are the same. But older pearls were tritium and they may change color to brown (or yellow or orange). Fonts do vary on inserts- thin font and thick font are common. Rolex changes stuff all the time. Show us a pic of your insert- you are sure it's gen, right? Here's a 16800 with an original insert- it's got a different 4 in 40 as opposed to panerai's insert which is correct for his model of sub.

It's probably a rep crown. It's definitely not a 702, which is a tall coronet- this would be a late 703 crown w/ the short coronet, but those fat dots are all wrong. There are some decent rep copies out there, but not fitting a gen (or decent aftermarket) tube is a sure tell.

If you have a variation with the dwo, it is probably in the dwo itself- slight imperfection in the printing/spacing of the numerals. You could get another dwo. For date change, you need to pull the hands and reset them to change at 12:00- but 11:55 is not a big deal in my mind- if you go to bed at 10 or 11, who cares! I don't think a 4 or 5 minute variation in date change is a big deal- my guess is that the movement isn't built for an exact change at 12 anyway.

According to Ranfft, the 2784 is a 28800 bph- wouldn't be my first choice for a 1016 build given the 1570 is a 19800 bph. The 2846-2 will fit the 16013 case and be closer at 21,600 bph. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2784 Of course, that being said, I built my 1016 w/ a 2824-2, but that was because I used a 1601 case. I don't think you need to remove the date stuff since the movt. is only 5.2mm tall- it should fit fine- hopefully the stem lines up.

Congrats on a beautiful build! The gilt dial is cool and I like the 34mm case.

It would be ironic if it were a gen dial in a rep case! But the ageing on the dial lume plots looks suspect to me Yellow hands look like some of my work- I'm hell on matching dials and hands.

A SEL bracelet is all wrong for a 1675. Early 1675s would take a 7206 with 58 end pieces. Next would be a 7836 with 280 ends 78360 follows that with 580 ends People also could fit a 93150 with 580 ends on a late model 1675 Since you're dealing with a rep, you may have to file and bend the end links to get them to fit. A 93150 would be what you want and the 580 end pieces would be correct- hopefully you can make them work. I've used the rep end pieces on a few occasions and done ok.

If you're going to use a tritium dial, you need a case with lugholes. So you either drill the TC case or use a ST3135 case which has lugholes. The ST case isn't perfect, but it's ok and would probably be the easier choice. For a bezel assembly, you can use any decent aftermarket assembly, but you may have to do some sanding, etc. to make it fit. It's too bad the MBW case with lugholes isn't around anymore- mine is an A serial Euromariner. I put a Clark's crystal and good aftermarket bezel with a gen crystal retaining ring on it and now it's WR. A few months ago I put a WM9 dial and some TC hands on it. It's got a gen crown and tube, and gen 501B end pieces on an MBW 93150. Inside is a swiss eta 2836-2. I'd thought about putting a relumed tritium dial on there, but the SL of the WM9 dial and the TC hands is cool.

Nice build! Your hands and dial lume match nicely. I'd love to see a head on pic w/ the DWO thru the cyclops.

This is what I've been doing- sand the OD of the crystal retaining ring or the ID of the bezel, or both. I've done this on the aftermarket 16610 bezel assemblies also. I use a 320 or 400 grit sandpaper (wet/dry) and do it by hand- nice and slow w/ some test fitting along the way. It usually doesn't take too long- 30 minutes to an hour, maybe.