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Most of the 1019 cases I've seen (photos only; never handled one) are not very good, regardless of price. Both Phong's and Yuki's high-end cases look very inaccurate. The only one that might pass muster is NDTrading's, but it's hard to be certain from the photos available. As for this one? It looks like a standard rep Datejust case, which is very, very different from a 1019 case's dimensions.

Yes, lots of times, though I had to take the watch off after walking in the sunlight and heat for more than an hour. I was starting to sweat through that ostrich skin! (Wait, you did read the update on page 3, right?)

Oh, crap! That's what I get for barging into this thread like a drunk uncle, and not reading the OP! I'll edit the post as soon as I get home. Home is where the ruler is.

A fellow member recently asked me for comparative wrist shots of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Like me, he's got 6.5" wrists of fury. This seems like the right thread to dump these photos in! For the record, I find it to be an incredible rep that's surprisingly manageable on my wrist. Fewer door frame accidents than I've had with my PAM 288! *ADDITIONAL INFO* Blancpain Fifty Fathoms: 45mm across, 15mm thick Rolex Submariner (TC): 40mm across, 13mm thick 6.5" wrist size, as mentioned above.

Both look terrific on the Jubilee, M! And I really need a DD in the collection.

The "Albino" was probably the last good dial that DW sold. I got to see it on alligoat's Daytona for an extended period, and it looks as good as it does here. Terrific job on the subtle spackling!

I know the proceeds of your 6265's sale went to a good cause, but you deserve another beautiful Daytona on your wrist!

Excellent. You've captured much of the slenderness of the gen's lugs. My one concern is about the lugholes. They look huge now!

Stunning work on the case, rolojack! The radial-finish bezel is an exceptionally well-observed finishing touch.

Thanks, M! It seems like ages ago when I snagged that LeJour through you!

Thanks, guys! I'm glad to have it on the wrist again.

When I first got my 1016, I had it on an old Jubilee (with rolled links) before I was able to find a decent 7836. It's a combo that definitely works!

UPDATE -- AUGUST 20, 2014 This is a long overdue update, but I've got excuses! In my defense, it's been an unusually hectic summer, and the time to sit down and write about watches has been in shorter supply than I'd like. Secondly, I still haven't put together a good photographic setup to match the one I had a couple of years ago. Well, to misquote Rumsefeld, you don't take pictures with the setup you wish you had. Similarly, you write using the free time you've got. I moved back to Canada in 2012, and by the start of 2013 I was enjoying my proximity to one of our community's greats--The Zigmeister. He'd done an amazing job on several of my watches, and I figured I'd send him one of my favorites, the FAP 6239, for a service. As Buzzfeed would say, you won't believe what happened next! Upon removing the caseback, Zig found that the Valjoux 72 movement had been mounted so precariously (“beyond repair… stem is completely misaligned with case”) that he refused to touch it. What had happened? Turned out that the 6239/V72 case I'd ordered from DW (one of several) couldn't actually accommodate a V72! Up to now I'm still not sure if it's supposed to take a 7750, a Mystery Movement, or was just machined badly. So way back in 2011, jmb had expended all that effort to machine and reshape what turned out to be a bad case. And my poor watchsmith in Manila was given the near-impossible task of making the wrong movement fit. Somehow he managed it, but the solution was ugly and dangerously so. I told Zig to hold tight while I sent him three more cases from my increasingly worthless pile of DW parts. One of them worked. The movement was serviced, installed, and returned to me in March 2013. So now I had a 6239 that ran well, but within a stock DW case. All of its character was gone, and I was sad, barely giving it any wrist time. What to do? I was hoping that jmb could repeat what he'd done before, but -without going into details- circumstances prevented lightning from striking twice. Next stop was Akira, whose modding talents have been improving by leaps and bounds in the past few years. I was close to shipping the watch head over to Germany, but what I'd been hearing about trans-Atlantic rep seizures was scaring the crap out of me. I would still love to collaborate with him in the future, but the prospect of losing a Daytona in the mail was not something I wanted to consider. Ultimately, I went local and janeto72 gamely took up the challenge of reshaping/refinishing the Daytona case by hand, and transferring the gen bezel and crystal from the old watch. That was at the start of the year, and it’s been a busy time for the both of us. At long last, I got the watch back two months ago. The result is subtler and far less-weathered than before, but -like with my 7032- JT's work is excellent. Lugs were slimmed and blunted, and holes widened. The caseback also got a straight-brushed finish similar to that seen on many genuine FAPs. So let’s go see the new batch of photos. The bulk of the work can be seen in profile. As on the old case, it was crucial to remove the sharp points and form blunt tips to match earlier Daytonas. The case is still thicker than I’d like, but there’s only so much you can do when starting off with DW’s case. The crown isn’t as inboard as before, but “the tumah” has been kept under control. Shape-wise this case isn’t far off from a 6262. A closer look at the engravings and the refinished caseback. Still this watch’s “Easter Egg”! I do like this watch on OEM Rolex ostrich: But it’s just about perfect on beat-up rivets: And a bonus group shot: The important thing is that I’m wearing it again, and loving it! Big thanks to janeto72 and The Zigmeister! Repeat thanks to jmb, alligoat, and mcotter!

I'm torn between a 1016 or a Speedmaster. The thought of having just one watch is too horrific to consider!

6239 sort of day.

While it's true that the angle of the watch has killed any reflections on the markers, I agree that it looks weird. The numerals just look blocky, and corners that should be gently rounded are angled sharply and, sometimes, at 90 degrees. There shouldn't be hard-edged rectangles within the loops of the '6' and the '9', for example.

Thanks, Chuck. The lower-half text is looking very good in that shot.

Overwrought, unbalanced, and the silver/blue/black registers is really something that is inextricably linked to Zenith.

Please ignore my recommendation for a Clark tube. I just checked the store and the only one they carry is a 24-6020-alike, which is a 6mm tube and will need a re-tap. I'm hoping someone can recommend a 5.3mm alternative.

J or Chuck P: I'd love to see some macro shots of the dial to see how they compare to Yuki's "classic" stock from years ago. From this distance, it looks pretty good.

This may sound like damning with faint praise, but that's pretty nice for a Yuki! Once you take price into consideration, I'd move it ahead of NDT in my official 1016 Dial Ranking™! Now you're going to have to redo those hands to match! Re: the crown/tube situation, automatico's pinned thread is the best meditation on the tricky topic of 6mm crowns. My suggestion is to get a 5.3mm case tube from Clark Watch Parts and a newer-type gen 6mm crown (i.e. for a 16000-series Datejust or later). I don't know of any good aftermarket 6mm crowns but, boy, are there a lot of bad ones on eBay.

That looks familiar!