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lhooq

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Everything posted by lhooq

  1. Haven't seen that XX in a while, M. Beautiful!
  2. Well, it's shaping up to be a Panerai week for me:
  3. Just to clarify and (in keeping with your comment above) simultaneously muddy the waters: The Asian 7750 with 3/6/9 configuration is NOT the same as a 7753, either Asian or Swiss. (Read ubiquitous' comment here, and note how 7753s have a separate date quickset pusher.) Further complicating matters, a few years back I remember someone selling Swiss 7750s with subdials at 3/6/9. They were alleged to have been manufactured in this configuration by ETA. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to order one of them and investigate further.
  4. Thanks, Nanuq! That means a lot coming from a vintage Rolex fundamentalist like you!
  5. Someone has done this recently. It's killing me how I can't remember who it is, but there've been so many 1016 builds in this past year.
  6. Sorry I'm late to this thread! Your summary is correct. What's not so clear to me is when the switch from domed to beveled Tropic 22s happened. I think the move away from domes took place in the late 1970s for the Daytona's T21, but I believe the domed T22 lasted for much longer. I've read about L-Series 1016s being sold with domed crystals; that's at the end of the 1980s! As to the reason for the T22's extra thickness? I think it speaks to the Explorer's rugged character, and how it generally lives a harder life than the prissy, effete Daytona.
  7. Thanks, E! Looking back, what an unexpected surprise it was for Omega to come out with a retro-looking sports watch AND for the factories to replicate it so quickly!
  8. My only suggestion would be to upgrade the riveted bracelet, though I realize the old Yuki 7206s are hard to come by these days. If you like the thinness of this watch at present, just wait 'til you try the slimmer links on those! Great work, regardless!
  9. Ah... That's what I like to see! (And the S5's not bad, either!)
  10. All is revealed in this thread: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/133535-daytona-6239-fap-peruvian-silver/ But for today, it's all about Speed:
  11. I have long been interested in finding a good Polerouter and, much more expensively, a "Nina Rindt" Compax. I wouldn't call UG high luxury, but it is good a brand with a long history for pioneering designs e.g. said Compax layout, microrotor movements, and bombé lugs on sports watches.
  12. I should point out that jmb can easily fabricate a T21-compatible bezel if you ask for it. This was the secret ingredient of my old Space-Dweller franken, as J had mistakenly matched the 1601 case with a Clark T21 that I'd ordered for a DW 6239 build.
  13. M, you've got it exactly right, and I think jmb's still got them listed under the Tools & Parts subforum. The key distinction is the DJ case itself, which is more accurately dimensioned than any of the cartel 1016s. In the 6+ years I've been looking at 1016 reps, they've never been upgraded!
  14. The complete 1016 kit, as sold by jmb, comes with a Clark T22. There's nothing wrong with that at all, unless you want a domed crystal.
  15. That's odd. The inner diameters of the T21 and T22 should be identical. It's just that the T22 is thicker by about 0.5mm.
  16. Pretty much every out-of-the-box rep 1016 (from cartel to MBK offerings--and even Yuki's 1016 case!) are based on an inaccurately-replicated Datejust case. A Tropic 22 will be an unacceptably loose fit and rattle around the outer lip of the rehaut. The best you can do is a Tropic 19, but be prepared to spend a bit of time bringing the height down.
  17. I'll answer the ones I know for sure: 1. For a 6265, 700/702/703 are all period-correct, depending on the year. 703 is the most common by far. 4. 1.8mm body, 0.9mm pivots. The gen Daytona bars are flangeless, double-shouldered. 5. No. Daytona lug holes are smaller than Sub/Explorer holes i.e. <1mm.
  18. A few points, in no particular order: -That font used for "ROLEX" is often described as slab-serif. It was used up to the early 1970s (around '71-'72). There was, however, a noticeable change around 1970, as the printing quality would go from crisp to indistinct and "milky". You can also see this quality on other black-dialed sports models of the time, so I imagine it was a change in dial supplier. -The domed Tropic 22 was in use all the way up to the end of the 1016's life cycle. I don't know when Rolex switched to the flat T22, but the final L-Series 1016s were sold with domed T22s. And that was near the end of the 1980s! -We're most familiar with the Luminova 1016 service dial, but there are also tritium-lumed replacement dials that have been in use since, I think, the mid-1970s. -Identical dials will age differently depending on any number of mysterious environmental factors. Not even the geniuses at VRF have figured out exactly which conditions will turn lume yellow, and which will retain the original white. My only advice is to find a photo of a gen that you like and base your efforts on that. -Despite all the advances we've made in the past few years, the rep community is still hurting for good aftermarket dials. Find one, then go from there. After all, the only one who will be raising eyebrows at your finished watch will be you. And me, of course!
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