ubiquitous

drop- A couple of answers to your questions... 1) Get the Clark's. Good value for the money and the quality is first rate. Very close to the gen at a fraction of the cost. 2) You'll need to keep the stem, but definitely change out the crown and tube for gen. This makes a huge difference in appearance and feel, but more importantly, function. 3) If you can get a dot, it's good to have but... 4) Getting a complete gen insert is really the way to go. Appearance, durability, etc... There IS a difference! Also, don't forget... Shape the CG's and drill the lugs. There's more than can be done beyond these mods... Just depends how far you want to take it... All the best, R

Good for you. I hope that makes you feel better about yourself. I used to feel the same way... Until people (read bertie) started getting pushy and posting silly nonsense about me when I didn't jump to their commands... I mean 'requests'... fast enough. Gets pretty old, especially when it's the same individual who takes quite a lot of information from the forum for his own purposes, yet doesn't give back much in return... And then starts barking becase someone didn't help them fast enough. Well, shame on me. So... Change of practice for me. I will probably be a little more reserved in what details I choose to post from now on... But if friends and members in good standing with me need help on a particular item, such as the mod discussed here, I will probably just do it for them myself at no charge, time permitting. And for the record... Yes... I am a person devoted to my family... Sorry that makes me a bad netizen for not spending every waking moment of my life on the internet waiting for your requests to write up how-to's for you Bert. Maybe someone else will listen to your bitching and moaning; not me.

I've recently seen some aftermarket ROO straps on eBay; complete with end linksfor an easy swap. Or, you can try StrapLuxe, etc. etc...

Haven't seen it yet, but hoping 13 is better than 12 (which I thought was terrible)...

You lucky duck! I was wondering who this one went to when adding posted it. What a beautiful piece!

A fun, quirky novelty, that's for sure! I could have sworn these were selling in the $60 to $80 range 3 or 4 years ago... Now, I see a number of them on eBay between $100 and $200 US (there are currently 6 for sale on eBay)... Not something you see on someone's wrist everyday... That's for sure!

BTW, George... While I was doing my write up for my mod, I found an even easier way to remove the link... No dremel or cutting tool required. Very clean method... Also a 5 min job... Okay... Enough posting. Off to go have fun with the kids...

Wow... 130 euro to release your parcel... That, my friend, is extortion! I'm assuming customs already knows what's inside the package?

Showoff! Was it a long wait to snag one?

Nice one George! Good to see you contributing... Hey Bertie... Maybe you oughta try doing a little of that... Contributing I mean. Don't see you doing much else... But you sure know how to flap yer gums...

Nice choice, Bazz! Have mine on today as well...

Looks like the link sheared the pin right off with some sort of impact. Difficult to say what could have happened, as it would take considerable force to make that happen. Regardless, a new bracelet will remedy that. Straight swap out and you'll be back in biz...

Indeed... Typically, if the datewheel is having difficulty in rotating, it's usually because it's rubbing against the back of the dial (i.e. not enough clearance). It's sometimes a little tricky to get everything aligned correctly... But with the right spacer ring for the dial, the problem can usually be resolved with little effort.

Ken... Do you wax your legs? They're looking quite smooth...

Indeed! That is a gorgeous watch!

Don't worry, Robi... It's me he's making reference to. I'm the one who 'loves to show off what they have done and smile at themselves by looking into the mirror and saying " look, I have done this and you can't, but I am not going to teach you no matter how polite you ask for help, poor lad"......' Well... I'm certainly glad you posted this, Bertie. Saves me a lot of work from finishing up the write up on how to do this mod... The one I've been working on in my spare time since you started whining about it in another thread of mine. Think I'll spend that time with my wife and kids instead of trying to help someone on this forum. As someone who has given away my time, parts, watches, etc. to people on this forum... Helped with I don't know how many questions on how to do this or that... Sometimes to people I don't even know, or even receive a thank you from... Well, how dare I be so selfish and withhold knowledge that I have on something I had to figure out myself? How dare I not drop everything I'm doing at the office, at home, etc. to jump to your request and respond with a step by step on how to do something relatively petty, simply so that I can help benefit YOU, and your 'me, me, me' attitude? Well... Forget it. Again, thanks for posting this. You saved me a lot of time and effort by voicing your opinion.

So... In the end, we have a movement that needs major revision, and even after that (if it would ever happen), it's still too thick for a proper Daytona case. Though, other 60@6:00 models may benefit... And maybe cross pollenate to other layouts where 60 runs at 12:00 or 3:00...

Personally, I vote #3. That way, you can do your own QC with a watchmaker/repairer of your choice

If the item was delivered via FedEx, isn't there a tracking number for that item? If so... That should be enough proof to your dealer that problems had occured which prevented the delivery of your parcel.

I'm not very concerned with the 'flaws' on this watch There are a few items I'll address, but none of which concern the bezel. To me... The minor inaccuracies that are present are worth the $16,500 difference between rep and gen.

Is there a way to make the 7750/60@6:00 more reliable. My thoughts on this... Perhaps if they added gears that are cut more precise and with lighter weight, that would help (the precision cut gears to take out the 'slack' in running). Perhaps a stronger mainspring... Maybe change the gear ratio to deliver better torque? Add some jewels at the pivot points for better wear...

Must admit... This didn't seem obvious to me... The jump hour function was... But I guess I don't look at too many jump hours (most that I seem to recall paying attention to were the retrogrades, like GG, Chronoswiss, etc) or regulateurs for that matter...

I dunno... I don't see it. I think I'm trying to hard to find a problem... I'll have another look at it in a few after I've had my Starbucks for the morning...

Wonder what kind of metal the case is made of... Assuming that the gong hammers will be using the case to produce the chime... And ultimately what quality of sound it makes.

Supposed to be this one, I think?