freddy333

What is the story on that strap? Is it new? Still

A few tidbits from my gmt travels that may help - You cannot convert a 1030 to a GMT, because its pillar lacks the channeling & screw holes to mount the date & gmt modules. Instead, pay whatever you have to pay for a decent, working 1036 or 1066 (these are 1030s with the date module & either is correct for a 6542 - the 1036 was used initially & the 1066 at the end of production). When I say working, I mean make sure the movement keeps reasonable time & the stem winds freely & sets time without *any* binding. This is VERY important as problems with any function on these movements are likely to require (expensive/rare) parts to rectify. I should add that most Rolex watchmakers will refuse to work on the gmt due to the rarity/expense of parts & the fact that the pros cannot spend the time required to source them. Your biggest hurdle (assuming you are starting from a working 1036 or 1066 base), by far, will be locating the gmt components, especially, the key 24-hour (gmt) wheel & calendar ring (the links below discuss this). Unlike nearly all other components inside Rolex watches, these parts are unique (to the 6542) & were never used in any other watches. Because of this, they were made in limited numbers & only for a brief period of time. Add in the severe demand for these parts from an international cadre of well-heeled collectors & you have a nightmare scenario when it comes to availability. If you have not already, you should read (in no particular order) this, this & this.

I do not believe Rolex ever made a silver Newman dial (only black & white).

Regardless of its Beverly Hills (pawn shop) location, it looks fakey (dial), fakey (case), fakey (bracelet) to me. I bet these 'Jewelers to the Stars' is where OJ got his gold Rolex Sub. But I do like the color.

Get 1 of these.

A franken (a term derived from Mary Shelley's book, Frankenstein), in watch terms, denotes a watch constructed from unrelated parts/watches. Generally, the term is attributed to a non-genuine watch that is intended to appear genuine through the inclusion of gen parts. The other terms are self-explanatory.

Unfortunately, I cannot read French, but, from your title, I think I get the idea.

KB - It takes all kinds, but I hope it all works out favorably (for you).

Ditto what Alli said.

Beautiful watch, but, sadly, ditto on the dial & crown. Also, a superdome was never spec'd for the 653x Subs (should be a T17, which has a mild convex shape).

As it says, Ofrei's tubes are made to fit Rolex.

Click me (seller should be able to answer your questions).

Ending my work week the way it began

I am guessing it is the reversing wheel (7912), which is contained within the auto-wind module, but only the watchmaker can tell you for sure.

Try ebay.

I would not sand or modify the crystal. You just need to remove more metal from the inside of the bezel. I have had to do this on all of my DW bezels (when I install a gen crystal, since the gens are thicker than the crystal DW supplies). I use a Dremel with a round grinding bit & it usually takes about 15 minutes of grinding, test-fitting (do this frequently because if you remove too much metal, you are screwed), grinding, test-fitting, etc.

I do not have a PT Sub, but, in general, once the bezel has been removed, you simply press (with your thumb) the insert out from the underside of the bezel. If it is cemented in, try running a razor or thin blade in between the bottom of the insert & bezel. If the insert correctly fits the bezel, you do not need to cement it in. However, if it is too small, a few small dabs of Gorilla glue or semi-permanent automotive gasket cement will work.

Any mechanical movement can be reliable if it has been serviced properly. But the converse is just as true. The movements in nearly all rep watches -- regardless of whether they are gen ETA, Asian-made ETA clones or cheap/generic Asian -- are either used or unserviced. This means that, at best, you do no know the condition of the movement &, at worst, you have a ticking time-bomb that is not likely to last very long. For this reason, it is generally recommended that, for any good watch -- rep or gen -- you need to rely on or plan to keep, you have it professionally overhauled upon receipt. Then, like all mechanicals, you should expect 5-7 years of trouble-free service until the next overhaul. Of course, it does not pay to service a $100 watch powered by a generic Asian movement.

Still wearing a Sub

Nice shoot, but keep in mind there were a number of production variations of each 62xx model & things like finish on bezel edges, crowns, case shape, etc., tended to vary a bit. Not to mention differences due to age & repeated re-finishings, overhauls, etc. So, other than the dials (you forgot to mention 1 of the most obvious flaws on rep dials - their weird, misshapen crowns (which is what I keep old, damaged/refinished DJ dials around for )), I would not carve any of these differences in stone.

It looks beautiful, Ubi. But, for a vintage tool watch, I would have left the original insert on it & possibly enhanced its patina a bit more.