freddy333

I am guessing it is the reversing wheel (7912), which is contained within the auto-wind module, but only the watchmaker can tell you for sure.

Try ebay.

I would not sand or modify the crystal. You just need to remove more metal from the inside of the bezel. I have had to do this on all of my DW bezels (when I install a gen crystal, since the gens are thicker than the crystal DW supplies). I use a Dremel with a round grinding bit & it usually takes about 15 minutes of grinding, test-fitting (do this frequently because if you remove too much metal, you are screwed), grinding, test-fitting, etc.

I do not have a PT Sub, but, in general, once the bezel has been removed, you simply press (with your thumb) the insert out from the underside of the bezel. If it is cemented in, try running a razor or thin blade in between the bottom of the insert & bezel. If the insert correctly fits the bezel, you do not need to cement it in. However, if it is too small, a few small dabs of Gorilla glue or semi-permanent automotive gasket cement will work.

Any mechanical movement can be reliable if it has been serviced properly. But the converse is just as true. The movements in nearly all rep watches -- regardless of whether they are gen ETA, Asian-made ETA clones or cheap/generic Asian -- are either used or unserviced. This means that, at best, you do no know the condition of the movement &, at worst, you have a ticking time-bomb that is not likely to last very long. For this reason, it is generally recommended that, for any good watch -- rep or gen -- you need to rely on or plan to keep, you have it professionally overhauled upon receipt. Then, like all mechanicals, you should expect 5-7 years of trouble-free service until the next overhaul. Of course, it does not pay to service a $100 watch powered by a generic Asian movement.

Still wearing a Sub

Nice shoot, but keep in mind there were a number of production variations of each 62xx model & things like finish on bezel edges, crowns, case shape, etc., tended to vary a bit. Not to mention differences due to age & repeated re-finishings, overhauls, etc. So, other than the dials (you forgot to mention 1 of the most obvious flaws on rep dials - their weird, misshapen crowns (which is what I keep old, damaged/refinished DJ dials around for )), I would not carve any of these differences in stone.

It looks beautiful, Ubi. But, for a vintage tool watch, I would have left the original insert on it & possibly enhanced its patina a bit more.

I am only seeing 1 pic (from the side). Post a macro pic of the crown from the front/dial side, so I can see its width. That is where I think there may be a problem - in your other pics, it looks too wide.

I would not put lume in any vintage watch, but, if that is what flies your kite, just get some Bergeon white lume & mix it into your paint.

I think Rolesor is Rolex's term for a SS and gold case/bracelet (Rolesium means SS and platinum).

Ronin - Your crown looks too big (wide). You definitely need a gen for that watch. josechano - The inner flange looks fine to me. I would do a bit of reshaping of the CGs though (look too new for a vintage Sub).

Why did you want to replace the current bracelet in the 1st place? It looks fine.

Ending the work week still wearing this

Had a couple Lucas-powered motors myself over the years (still have the green 1) But Nanuq's 'Rover (with all those extras) is quite a catch.

The question of Andrew's & Josh's affiliation has raged for some time, but suffice it to say that they tend to carry similar lines (& can source most others).

Because so many of the watches have survived & so few original inserts have accompanied them, even to the hard-core TZ (& VRF) elitists, a 6542 with an aftermarket (or later gen version) insert is often acceptable. Therefore, exceptions are often made for this model. The fact is that some of our frankens (those powered by gen motors behind gen dials (even if repainted) in gen cases) are so nearly gen that you can no longer simply dismiss them out-of-hand as non-gens. The line has blurred. And I say that having been a TZ member for more than 10 years (I preceded their Rolex Mods ).

Parts are readily available for (genuine) ETA movements & any watchmaker (willing to work on a rep watch) can repair them, which is not the case for most Asian movements.

Not really rare either. You can find these all over ebay. But remember - always buy the seller before you buy the watch.

You must be reading the wrong reviews. All joking aside, a comprehensive, well written review should always contain either the dealer's name or a link. Of course, not all reviews are well written.

Powered by Lucas, the prince of darkness. I feel for you, Nanuq

True (& with all due respect to the Pythons), but I still would not call it a model.