panerai153

What about the movement? As I mentioned in another thread, Vac is claiming that the JF movement is better than the noob, I suppose he should know, as he looks at a lot of therm. Wondering id=f anyone else had any thing to say about this? Also since he didn't elaborate, what could be the difference? I always thought the different manufacturers sourced their movements from the same place. I'm just asking because I have had some really bad luck with a couple of AP ROO's with the sec@12 movements.

I just had a conversation with Vac relative to the crappy a7750 movements in the AR ROO's ( I have two of four that have been really problematic) he seems to think that the J12 has a better movement than the noob. I thought they were all using the same movements? Any comments on this? I will say, no matter how cosmetically perfect the watch is, if the movement is not reliable, it is going to be a frustrating and expensive proposition. I have four AP ROO chronos, two are fine, not a bit if trouble, two have been a headache from the onset, both are being repaired now, one has been back and forth three times the other twice!!! Very frustrating and expensive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are readily available on eBay, I bought one there s few months ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tudor today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GMT IIC today Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I would personally go for the 1680, but is the friend into vintage watches? If he is the 1680 is a definite yes, but if he prefers contemporary larger watches, then the Deep Sea would be the best.

Tom, I would contact misiekped first. He does fantastic work. He has done several watches for me, and I have been very satisfied with his work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There you go, the two preeminent vintage Rolex experts have spoken, buy a phong!!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I believe the "genuine ETA " movements are the biggest scam going on in the rep world today. Most of the movements are cheap Asian, being sold at grossly inflated prices. Even the really quality ETA clones are not a plus 200+ dollars. You can buy Seagull ST 2130 (ETA 2824 equivalent , brand new for around 100 USD on the Internet. In the watch world today, many of the smaller brands are using Seagull, Sellita and Soprod movements, because the supply of ETA movements is being choked off by Swatch. I would seriously doubt that the Chinese rep makers are able to procure new ETA movements when manufacturers who are based in Switzerland or have their watches assembled there cannot get movements. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The link works for me. His price is 2400.00USD for the complete bezel and insert. I agree with cc33, unless he is restoring it to pristine like new condition, I would use the ming or phong bezel assembly. Depending on where you are, I find phong easier to deal with. Since you already have a service dial and hands, I'm not sure it would be worth it to spend 2400.00 USD on a genuine bezel assembly/insert. But of course that is up to your friend as to what he wants to spend. If this was a 6538 "big crown" then I would probably opt for the genuine parts as it is a more expensive and popular watch.

He's from Alaska, all their tools have sharp edges!!

Went to an Operetta last night "The Merry Widow" Thought I would wear my 16613 but ended up wearing this one.

Going to our Music Festival presentation of "the Merry Widow" tonight will be wearing this one.

Good for you !! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The crystal looks pretty close to correct as far as height, maybe a tiny bit low, but not much. The mag is definitely off. Everything else looks fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Years ago, I wore a Sub every day for several years, I was running my family's farming operation, so I was in dust, grease, diesel fuel, cow shit, you name it, that watch got covered in it. I finally had to send it to Rolex through my local Rolex AD. This watchmaker told me that mine was the most beat up Rolex he had ever seen come through their store. Actually the reason I sent it ism the crystal was so scratcheds and scuffed that You could almost not tell the time. When I got it back they had changed the bracelet. I questioned him as to why they changed a "Perfectly good" bracelet. He told me that the pins were so worn from all the dust and grease acting like grinding compound that most of them were almost completely worn through. He told me it was a miracle that the bracelet had stayed intact as long as it had. So if you are careful, they last a long time, if you aren't they wear out pretty fast. Doubt that Mrs. Diesel subjects hers to the sort of destructive elements I did with mine, but a little dirt and grit will sure speed up the wear.

Man, there are so many it's almost impossible to list. Swapped a Daytona back in about 1980 for a 1665 Submariner. I owned the Daytona for about 4-5 weeks, couldn't get used to the no date manual wind, Silly me, what did I know back then. Then sold the 1665 a few years latter to a dive student of mine for more than I paid in the swap. A couple of 1680 subs, a Chronoswiss Tora and a UN +/- Date are some that I really regret selling in the past 8-10 years. none of my reps, because I always seemed to be able to replace one with another that was better. I do know that I have some hard decisions to make pretty soon, as I have over 40 watches, and I need to cut that number down pretty drastically, so I might be having a "Fire Sale" pretty soon with some really nice reps.

I have to agree. I had a genuine "Snowflake" 9411/0 Blue. Really never wore it much. beautiful watch, but I it just never did grow on me. I do like Tudors though, took the proceeds from the Snowflake sale and bought a vintage Tudor Chrono!! Much more to my liking.

I sincerely believe that all of these are ploys by Putin to test the West and to sow discord and confusion. He is pushing the envelope all over the world, the Swedish Submarine incident, the Migs and Bombers flying right up to and maybe into US and Canadian airspace, the kidnapping of the Estonian Security officer, the harassment of the Latvian fishing vessel, and of course his grinding destruction of Ukraine. all of these are designed to keep everyone off balance. These are all carefully planned methods of "proxy" warfare, propaganda and disinformation. Just what you would expect from a former KGB agent. Unfortunately, one day, one of the planes will stray too close, or a submarine will get into the wrong waters, and then the shooting starts. I really believe that what he wants is to goad NATO into firing the first shot, and this will give him the excuse to invade the Baltic countries, Estonia Latvia and Lithuania and try to connect Crimea by land by taking the southern third of Ukraine. The West has played right into his hands, they have bumbled, fumbled, obfuscated and denied to the point that he firmly believes that he can do anything he wants and NATO will not respond. I would not be surprised if the midget submarine got into Swedish waters, sent out some distress messages, and then hauled butt back to the "mother ship" which was more than likely the Russian tanker that was steaming in circles just outside Swedish territorial waters. Here again, Putin has the West (Swedish Navy) chasing their tails while the sub is safely inside the mother ship and probably back at their Russian base by now.

Been doing a lot of reading on the history of PanAm so thought I would get this one out.

Good work!! Now Mrs. Diesel is a happy girl!! Tell her next time she breaks a link, you are putting it on a NATO!! Seriously, how much wear was there on the link bar?

Pretty cool, too bad it's not supported by Apple!! How are they getting al the different faces? I went to the website and it comes with 6 or 8 face options, but they are all generic, no brand name faces. Also what are the copyright infringement ramifications to those who design and app or whatever that includes a bunch of brand name watch dials, all of which are pretty proactive in going after folks that use their copyrighted and registered trademarks and designs? Actually, this is pretty much the first one of these that actually looks like a watch, and not some Klingon intergalactic communicator!!

I agree, USPS Express International or Priority International are pretty reliable and while not cheap, they are not nearly as expensive as UPS or FedEx. Recently I had a conversation with the customer service representative at our local PO, he told me that they had just had a meeting the day before and the postmaster told everyone that the USPS was really cracking down on scanning packages. He told me that the warning was if you miss a scan, you will be warned. The next time it goes in your personnel file, repeated "misses" will be subject to suspension, loss of pay and would definitely reflect on future promotions. This is welcome news, because in the past tracking was a joke, but it must be working, because I'm seeing a whole lot more tracking information on my packages. The downside is once the package leaves the USA, then it's up to the destination country to continue the tracking. Some are very good some are not. Another consideration is the customs paperwork. USPS requires one multi-copy form PS 2976-A. FedEx and UPS have multiple forms, they require acommercial invoice, which includes the country of origin of the product being exported as well as the harmonized code which is a specific code that they use to determine duty and taxes. For example the harmonized code for wristwatches, mechanical winding non precious metal or clad case is # 910221 Other wrist watches With automatic winding. Because of the scrutiny by FedEx and UPS at their customs clearing centers, I would never send a rep to another country using these carriers. Inside the USA, fine, overseas, no.

Watch repair and service is certainly one category where "you gets what you pay for". I'm very skeptical of anyone who says I can service your movement for 50.00 USD. First off, just the time taken to decase the movement, disassemble the movement, clean it thoroughly, oil it properly with the proper amount and kind of oil will probably take a couple of hours minimum, the oil is not free, the Ultrasonic machine and liquid is not free, the timegrapher and all the watchmakers tools are not free, so unless the repairman is willing to work for minimum wage or less, he is losing money on a true complete comprehensive service. But if his service is basically a quick, decase," dip and dunk" and then put it all back together, he probably makes money at 50 bucks. Unfortunately, you the owner are the sucker, because the so called service will result in just the same situation as Rolexman describes here. What folks learn by these types of experiences is when you try to save money, in the long run it's going to cost you more as the job will have to be done twice. Stick to the guys you know that have a proven track record, you will be dollars ahead in the end.