panerai153

PAM 237 today

Is that a genuine ML Night /Day? I had one of those in S/S several years ago. Nice dressy watch.

Anyone have Davidsenjpn's email address? Or do you have to contact him through PM?

I bought a 24A from Davidsen back in 2010, it was a pretty nice watch, however I realized after I bought it, I didn't care for the polished case, should have gotten the 24B instead. I would contact him and see if any are still available, also keep a lookout in the sales forums, I have seen them come up.

Thanks guys, I was suspicious of the movement as the dealers are somewhat evasive about the exact movement. one website, can't remember said it had a Seagull ST2130, but the others I checked just said A2824 or 2824 clone. AFA the 2130, I read a review on WUS about it compared to an ETA 2824 and another A2824 movement. This was a a complete teardown, almost part by part photo review by a well respected watchsmith. His conclusion was the ST2130 was as good as and in some categories better than the standard grade ETA 2824. The A2824 was a distant third in every category.

looks just like the one that's for sale on RG At any rate it is a beautiful watch. I'm afraid that these franken AP builds are too rich for my blood, but they sure are nice. Sorry that you are having problems selling your watch over on RG, but selling one of these "Super frankens" is often as hard as finding the parts to build it. I have been on this forum for over 8 years, and around 4-5 years before that on the old TRC. In those 12 or so years, I have seen the sales forums littered with broken dreams, beautiful watches lovingly put together that ended up being broken up for parts, as they never sold. Sell a 300-500 USD watch on these forums, no problem, but the higher the price the smaller the buyer pool. When you get into that 3-4K+ price range, the air gets pretty rarified up there. Just not that many folks on these forums that have the cash or desire to buy a 3K+ franken. When new members come onto the forum here and start asking about building a franken with lots of expensive genuine parts, my advice has always been, "You better really like it and plan it as a keeper, because it may not be very easy to sell if you have to sell it"

Mike, I agree with merrickville, you need to enroll in Watchaholics Anonymous, post haste!! Seriously though, I agree with ifivco about the resale value but not only of ML but almost all the micro brands as well.Resale prices are horribly bad. First off you have to work off the deeply discounted prices at the internet stores. For these watches, Suggested retail is a fantasy number. Second even with the deeply discounted prices, when you resell, you are gong to take a huge hit. Over the years, I have bought a ton of watches in this and slightly higher price ranges, Maurice Lacroix, IWC, Oris, Breitling,Doxa and probably a few others that came and went so fast they didn't even register in my memory bank!! Of all these watches, only a couple have been bought new, the others were bought on TZ, WUS and the Rolex Forum (other brands). I have no problem with opening a box from another previous owner, rather than walking out of an AD with a new watch. Guys on those forums are just like us, they are terminal flippers. What is nice is for the most part like us they are knowledgable enough to make sure that they keep all the papers, boxes, etc., so you are getting a practically new watch for at least 25-30% less than the discounted new price. I know that you love to do research, and if I were you, I would visit those forums, use their search to see if anything you are interested in is for sale, and look at the prices. I have also found that when a watch is listed at the high end of normal, it tends to linger, especially if it's a not so popular or well known brand. Often the owners will reduce the prices and it eventually sells, but some neglect to lower the prices, and sometimes and email with a reasonable price will be accepted. All they can say is no, no harm in dickering a little, or a lot!! Here is a good example of what I'm talking about Maurice Lacroix Calendre Retrograde List price 7500.00 USD Best price I could find 3350.00 USD My price almost two years ago 1425.00 USD

I've said this before and I'll say it again, all the cases I see unless they are phong or MQ or that ilk are cases that were made for a 6mm crown. The 1675 uses a 5.3mm crown. Doesn't seem like much but it is. To me that is the one fault of all the rep cases, and it makes this a really difficult watch to replicate accurately. You can shape the CG's perfectly, but when you stick a gen 5.3 mm crown in, their is going to be a big gap between the side of the crown and the CG. You have to have one in your hand to appreciate how tiny that 5.3mm crown really is. http://robertmaron.com/product.php?productid=18290 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Guys I know this sounds like a completely noob question, one step above "who has the best sub"!! But here goes, what movement is in the J12 FC v3? I always thought it was a Seagull ST 2130, but I've read a bunch of threads, and most say A2824 or A2824 clone. I would guess that the ST2130 would be classified as a 2824 clone, but so would several other movements. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just got this one back from Rex today. The Orloff Hornback was a B*tch to get on!! Regular buckle, seems to be pretty comfortable.

I'm not from Portugal, but have shipped a couple of genuine watches to Portugal several years ago. Had no problems. I believe that most members in the EU use what is called Triangle shipping. What that is is the dealer ships your watch to one of his associates in the UK, then the watch is shipped to you from the UK,, so you don't have the customs problems with shipping from China to you. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I can certainly appreciate where you are and where you are going. The very same thing happened to me, although in the reverse cycle. I have been fooling around with watches since right out of college, way, way back, probably before a lot of the guys here were born. Over the years, I had quite a lot of genuine watches, mostly Rolex, although, never more than one or two at a time. Around the early to mid 1990's, I sort of got disenchanted with Rolex as there were so many really bad replicas hitting the market, mostly quartz reps of the Datejust and Day/Date. I started shifting over to other brands, what were around here, very obscure brands, like IWC, Chronoswiss, UN, Oris, etc.. This went on for a few years, and while trawling the internet, I came across a couple of replica sites. These were the typical scam sites that have their own "forum". fortunately for me, I found the old TRC, which was a great forum, much like this one. I started buying reps and was pretty active for several years.At that stage of the rep evolution, the reps were not nearly as good as those are today, and to make them "believable" almost every one had to be modded I had a couple of bad experiences trying to sell modded reps. as most folks back then were not willing to pay 800-1000 USD for a modded rep, especially considering the base rep new was around 250-350 USD.I got rid of every rep I owned, and kept the gens, which got me down to about 6-7 watches. I got really involved in vintage Dive watches, at one time I had 6 Doxas, a Spiro technique and several Seikos. I continued to visit the rep sites though and after 3-4 years of just gens, the rep bug bit again. I sold off most of the vintage divers, they were just too difficult to find parts for, and replaced them with reps. I'm not sure how many folks are as cyclic as I am when it comes to hobbies, but my interest waxes and wanes with all of them. Probably watches have been more of a constant over the years, just the cycles between reps and gens. Right now I have 18 reps and 14 genuine. I probably need to sell at least half of them!! At one time I decided that I would keep my watches to 10 max, but the problem always is what do you sell? I like most all of them. One advantage of owning genuine watches, especially if you buy right and get good solid brands, for the most part, you can get most if not all of your money back if you decide to sell them. Lots more sales venues, and if you are planning to leave things to your kids, I would chose a genuine over a rep any day to pass along.

Here is a question from a totally non-engineer type person. while the power reserve is not affected, what about wear on the chrono mechanism? When the chrono is disengaged, do all the chrono gears stop, or they all still turning, but not engaged? My question would be if they are in fact not turning, what about increased wear to the chrono mechanism if it were left "on" all the time? I know that with some chronos the recommendation is to use them as little as possible, although I have never seen this admonition with genuine watches running an ETA 7750.

I'm sitting around here, doing nothing as I'm on call this weekend, so I did some looking. Seems like Ray is selling through distributors on PhilippineWatch.org. guy named bogart and another luciano . The links to Paneray. com don't work, but you might send them and email and see if the straps are still available. The last post I saw was back in late January this year. here is the address: paneray_philippines@yahoo.com Hope this helps.

Very nice pets!! We are "pet poor" 4 dogs and a cat. Both the cat and one of the dogs just showed up at our house (We live out in the country) and of course they were soon adopted. "Frank" Fox Red lab "Maggie" Fox Red lab (Frank's mother) "Jessie" Shih Tzu "Buddy" Homeless Dog that adopted us Sonia the cat

The OP sounds like someone who bought a watch from one of those AAAA+ Rolex reps , made in Switzerland, etc,etc,etc. beautiful photos, unfortunately they are a genuine watch, probably stolen from someone's website. Paid a big price and received a cheap Canal Street rep. Most all of us who have been around for a while have seen these rip off sites, and unless you are able to read between the lines, and realize that the dealer is a scammer, and the "forum" is just a bunch of shills posting about the wonderful watch they bought. Nary a negative post, no one saying, "the watch I received was not even close to what I saw on the dealers website" simply because the dealer is either creating the posts, or deleting ever negative one.not the case here. As long as you stay civil, you are free to complain or criticize any transaction with a dealer here. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I really can't quite comprehend the idea of having one just to say you have a Rolex in your collection? I seriously doubt that it will get much wrist time, since you don't like the brand to start with. I have never felt the need to add a watch to my "collection" just to say I have one, and especially if it were a brand that I didn't like at all! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I keep mine in watch boxes and some on a winder, but when we leave the house for more than a few hours, I put them all in a safe( fireproof and flame resistant) . It's bolted to the floor directly into the floor joists with 8" lag bolts. It's tucked into a place that it would be impossible to get a long pry bar into to try to pry the safe up. No one around knows about it, nor do I tell anyone what I have at home. It's in and area of the house that would never be visited by repair people or anyone but my wife and I. Nothing is completely fool proof of course, as a professional thief could probably get the safe open if he had time to fool with it. We have a very good neighborhood watch program, we're at the end of the road in a subdivision with houses on acreage from 5-30 acres. Only one road in and out, so it's not the sort of place most thieves would be comfortable in, as one car across the road in a dozen places would completely block them in. We have lived here for over 30 years, and we have had only one theft in the area, and that was some power tools that were taken by a couple of guys working for a tree trimming service and they were caught in 2 days trying to pawn the tools in a nearby town.I'm certainly mindful if the risks involved with owning any valuables, but you just have to do the best that you can and hope that it's enough. oh, did I mention, and outside and inside dog! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Please have someone like Bob Ridley guide you. It's very easy to destroy the value of a watch like this, and a lot of people will change things and kill the value. Master watch smiths like Bob Ridley are experts in restoration of vintage Rolex watches. They know what to do to make the watch usable and reliable, and actually increase the value rather than destroy it.

Here is what I would do if I were your age, see if you can work it into a part time gig for a while just to see if you like it. Personally, I couldn't stand having to deal with some of the folks who come into shops, especially high end shops like a Rolex AD. First off, they will treat you like you were something they picked up on their shoe while walking down the street. Second, you are going to be around watches, but they aren't yours, and if you spend too much time admiring them,. you are not going to get on well with the managers. You now have a dirty greasy job, but one that pays well and you have a pretty good deal of flexibility with your hours, that will not be the case with a job like the one you describe. Who do you think will be the guy tapped to work late during the Christmas holidays? When your friends want to go out and have a few beers, maybe, maybe not, because it may be your weekend to work late on Saturday evening. The only way I would recommend doing something like this is if you could either do it part time for a while or have a pretty good assurance that you could get your old job or a comparable job back in 6 months when you decide you hate being a flunky, and unfortunately, for quite a long time, that is what you will be. This job is no different from any other, you will start at the bottom of the ladder and have to claw your way up.

For all you folks out there that want to experiment, more power to you. Just don't expect a lot of sympathy when the deal goes south, or the watch you receive bears no resemblance to what you ordered. There are enough problems and drama associated with watch purchases from TD's, why add more layers of problems?

I believe the absence of markings is another tip off. I didn't realize that the Seagull movements had no markings, but someone else told me a few days ago that they were looking at a movement in a watch that came from the factory with a Seagull movement , and it had no markings. Swiss ETa would definitely have the ETA stamp as well as the movement #.