panerai153

If you can pull them off, I believe they are great. Having said that remember the RG AP's are reps of 30k watches. If you can " walk the walk and talk the talk" go for it. Here are two of mine. The RGRC is the older model. It's on a black Hornback with RG stitching. The second is the RGdiver. This is a bit of a fantasy model, as the gen has a gold bezel, not the Black carbon. Also the gen has a closed case back. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That is really, really nice!!! Now to find a good bracelet. Whatever happened to TC's TT bracelet project? That was a while back, that he was trying to put together a really high quality TT bracelet? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You are correct, I used Ziggy exclusively until he shut down his operation, since then I have struggled with having things done correctly. If it's Rolex related, I send everything to mymanmatt in Dallas, he has been working on watches primarily Rolex since 1985. Problem is he really doesn't like to work on non Rolex and I can't blame him, at least he's honest about it. He just tells me No!! I've heard a lot about misiekped, but he told me that he won't work on A7750 movements.So that pretty much leaves Vac and Domi. I am very reluctant to send anything to Domi, as German customs is so aggressive toward reps, so that leaves Vac. No problem with Vac, I've used him several times over the years, and his work is very good. Biggest problem is the time frame, he told me 4 weeks on my V5 diver for the slow beat conversion, AR crystal and lume. I believe that it's just now on the way back to me, shipped yesterday. I shipped it to him on January 30th, so almost 4 months instead of 4 weeks. But if he's the only one around that is really skilled enough to make an A7750 more reliable, I suppose he will be the man. Need to pick you guys brain on another thing with this watch. What is the correct color for the hands/numbers? I see genuine that have numbers that are almost white, and others that are green. I have watches that have very good lume, and the ones that are lumed with c3 are almost white in the watchbox, but exposed to sunlight or even strong room light, they turn green. Is that the case with the Silver dial?

Would love to be wearing this one, but after two trips to the watchsmith, it's still not working. So, This one for today

I really like this watch, only problem it's waaaaay too big for me. Wish they made a 44 mm version for us little guys!!

Where are the rappers getting theirs? Seems like they are getting called out right and left for wearing blinged out fake watches!!

Very frustrating problem guys. I bought a Silver dial rubber clad several months ago. in a m2m sale on RepGeek. The seller stated that it ran fine, but the power reserve was pretty low. I got it for a pretty good price, and when I received it, it ran fine. I wore it for several days and the packed it off to a watchsmith from one of the other forums. this guy seems like he knew what he was doing, actually has a real shop, facebook page etc. I sent it to him to have it relumed, crystal AR'ed and the movement serviced. He has a fairly reasonable turnaround, time, sent the watch back, and right off, it didn't seem right. Winding was very rough, like you were turning a stem that was inside a case full of tiny rocks. I didn't think the crown was engaging , but I swirled it a few times, and it started up. I set the time, and set the watch face up on my desk. After a few minutes, I noticed it ha stopped. Shook it a little, started back up and after a few minutes it did the same thing. I contacted the watchsmith and he said that he had never encountered anything like that before, but send it back and he would get it corrected. Well, long story short, sent it back, he got it told me that he took it back down, fixed the problem, and it was fine, good powered reserve and keeping good time. Sent it back, got it yesterday, opened the box this morning and when I wound it, it wound really smooth for the first few turns, and then started the same rough, grinding feeling. I swirled it a few times and it ran OK for a few minutes and stopped again. I tried leaving the crown out, winding more, and it still stops. Interestingly it stops at the same spot every time, seconds hand at about 8 second mark, stops, pick it up and move it just a bit, it runs fine for a few minutes and then stops again in the same exact spot. Second problem, I don't think he did any lume on my watch, it looks exactly like the photo that the seller posted. Below are two photos, the first is one of the seller's sales thread photos, the second is one I took today. The seconds hand is in the "Stopped" position, that's where it stops every time. So guys, what do you think I should do. I'm very reluctant to send it back to this guy, he's had two try's at the repair, and to start with it wasn't a broken movement as it was running when I sent it to him initially. Also I really don't like the way this guy packs a watch to return. Doesn't use any bubble wrap. wraps the watch head in about three USPS mailing envelopes (I suppose this is free packing material!!) and puts this in side a small USPS box. Of course the packing doesn't fill the box so the watch is being slammed around inside every time the package is moved. And we all know how the USPS handles packages. I send the watch to him, carefully wrapped in bubble wrap plus packing peanuts if needed to make sure nothing is moving around inside the box. and get it back with this crappy packing. What do you think I should do here. I believe that what I will probably do is send it down to Vac and get it properly lumed and the movement fixed. Problem is, I already have about 400 bucks in to this guy for the lume, service and AR. I expect though that the only way this is gong to come to a happy conclusion is to eat that loss and go forward from here. Photos

I have two that are both really accurate. The first is my MKII Kingston date with an ETA 2824 movement. It is consistently +2 seconds per day. My best rep now is my AP Rose Gold Diver which I believe has the Myiota movement, it is consistently -2 seconds per day. I don't have a timegrapher, so it's hard to tell, I just check the watch I'm wearing every morning with the atomic clock on the internet. I believe that a serviced movement of decent quality, such as any of the ETA movements, Sellita, the SeaGull ST2130, should be able to be adjusted to +/- 5 seconds per day. With some of the movements out there, especially the A7750's with odd seconds placements (sec@12 or sec@6, might be harder, to keep them consistent, what with the extra friction of the added parts.

not sure about that one, but it's really nice. Here is the Rose Gold Diver, it's a fantasy model, as none of the divers have open case backs, also the only genuine gold diver has a gold bezel, not the ceramic like this one. It's a really comfortable watch, has great wrist presence, and mine gets a lot of wear. Gold plating is very durable, and shouldn't be a problem if you don't abuse it, or polish it vigorously with abrasive polishes. Here's mine. .

PAM 029 today

What is the base watch you are modding? You are correct, vintage Rolex parts have gone out the roof. It's all about supply and demand. As the parts pool for these 40+ year old watches shrinks! the remaining parts are more and more expensive. The only ones I have dealt with are the old MBW 1665's. The stock bezel on them is pretty good. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Which model are you talking about? Vintage, modern, sec@9, sec@6? Need to be more specific, and probably a lot of your questions could be answered by searching the Rolex forum. Lots and lots of reviews, threads about the pros and cons of the various models. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I believe that you have some valid points, but as nanug said, these older watches have movements that haven't been manufactured for 40-50+ years. Parts are getting harder and harder to come by. Some things just aren't available at all, so either the watch becomes a paperweight, or you have to send it to one of the really high end watchmakers who have the skills and equipment to make parts. Problem then becomes, having a crucial part made may cost 10-100X what the same part cost when it was a stock off the shelf item. Since you can't see what's going on inside the movement, it's awfully difficult to tell when a watch is about to have a catastrophic failure. Personally, I would prefer to have it serviced at a reasonable interval, rather than take a chance on parts wearing out from lack of oil or a little bit of metal shavings that are now acting like grinding compound and really eating the insides up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That's and awful lot of money for a somewhat "novelty" watch" IMHO. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Was wearing this one when I ran across this one!!! Canebreak or Timber Rattlesnake, 12 rattles and well over 5 feet long! These can hurt you if they bite you. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks very much ST4. I wrote to DSN several weeks ago to order a set of hands for this watch. At the time, he said that he had 063's available. I just wrote him an email tonight, asking him for more specifics and possibly some photos. I would love to get my hands on one of the old Eddie lee versions like I had before, but they seem to be selling at a big premium. I sold one a few years back with an OEM Panerai gator and a really nice PAM deployant for 750.00 USD, serviced and lumed by Ziggy, T-48 crown and lello DW and a Jacobs caseback. one like that now would probably be well over 1K !!

How about a DSN 063? How are they for accuracy? I hate to spend money modding this watch if it's still not very good after modding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, as a mechanic, around Diesel engines, etc, you know that friction is the enemy of longevity. I firmly agree with nanug, get it serviced, and I mean a complete service. Complete disassembly, cleaned and properly lubricated. I'm in my 7th decade, I've been around equipment my entire life. We have a pretty big farming operation, and we have all sorts of motorized equipment,tractors, combines, cotton pickers, 18 wheelers, pickups on down to a whole slew of stuff with small engines. We adhere to a pretty rigid maintenance schedule with regular oil and filter changes, air filters blown out daily. Why do we do it, because it keeps everything running, and when you are planting in the spring and harvesting in the fall, we can't afford to have critical equipment sitting. Your watch is just the same, it's a precision piece of equipment, and it will run better and last longer of you get it serviced. And incidentally, you are very lucky that it's still functioning after 45 years of no service. I bet when you get it disassembled it may have more wear than you think. Take care of it, it's a very nice watch with tons of sentimental value. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I gotta say, Vac does some outstanding work, but you better be prepared to have your watch gone for a loooong time!! I sent him my V5 Diver on Jan 30th, he told me about 4 weeks, hahaha, middle of May and it's still in Florida. Work is great, and pretty much the only person in the CONUS doing the stuff that he does, but his times are just crazy. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks mighty good !! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk What you need to remember is today, even the ETA movements in reps are used movements. Swatch group is choking off the supply more and more. Gone are the days when the rep manufacturers could buy trays of brand new ETA movements. So no matter what you buy, it will more than likely need a service. As was posted above, a SeaGull ST2130 is a quality replacement for 2824 movements. About a hundred bucks and they are sealed factory new properly oiled,etc. Another alternative is to buy a donor watch and cannabalize it for the movement. Problem with that is unless you know the service history it also will probably need a service.

I tried it a bit ago, nothing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This is a perfect example of what has been discussed in a topic in general Discussion today. the increase in the number of fakes on EBay. What you did, and obviously a bunch of other folks didn't is you did your due diligence. Everything known to man is available on the internet, all you need to do is search!! looking at this auction, the first thing that strikes me is the dealer feedback. 96% -Red Flag, next off look at what the guy is selling, mostly used clothing. He's not a watch merchant -Red Flag. most of the watch stuff he sells are parts and accessories. Now to the watch itself, what is a genuine Daylight selling for? On EBay, they are selling for around 6500-8000 USD with box and papers, screwdriver, etc. So the low price alone would lead you to be suspicious. Even if a seller of a genuine watch starts the bidding at 1 USD, I can guarantee you he will have a reserve price that is very close to market value. With these types of sales, once the bidding gets over 300-400 USD, the seller is making money! -Red Flag And last, where are the boxes and paperwork? It would be very suspicious that someone would keep the rubber bezel guard, but throw away that nice wooden Panerai box, all the paperwork and accessories. -Red Flag I sure hope that the buyer takes this watch to a dealer or competent watchsmith, have him open the caseback and see the A7750 movement inside, take some photos and a statement that it's a fake. If done quickly, the buyer may have a chance to get his money back. Pretty good chance that if the seller thinks he got away with it, he might hang around, but he may take the money out, close his PayPal account and disappear into the night. Can always reappear with a different name address and email, presto!! New account on EBay.

I was into Panerai's pretty big a few years ago, had a couple of really nice ones that had some good mods. like most everyone here that are "serial flippers" , other things struck my fancy, needed funds for other projects and long story short, they were all gradually sold off. Two that I miss the most were Eddie Lee watches, an 029 and a 063. both of these were from that short run with Swiss ETA 2893-2 movements. Great watches, but sadly gone, and when one of those come on the market today, folks are asking a fortune for them. So, a few months ago, the PAM itch started again. Before you know it, I had another 029 and then a 063. Allegedly both of these have ETA 2836 movements, but I haven't taken the case backs off to check. Both are running great and are keeping very accurate time. Now here is the dilemma. When I bought the 063, I knew the GMT hand wasn't correct, as it was painted Red. I had never seen one with a red GMT hand and my research bore out the fact that none were produced. Today, I was looking through a few files of different PAMs and found a bunch of photos of the second 063 I owned (also came with a 2893-2 movement.) I believe that it was and Eddie Lee, but I'm not certain. Well, comparing the watches, it looks like not just the GMT hand on my present watch is wrong, it looks like all of them are. Then when I looked at the caseback photo of the old 063, it looks like the caseback on the new one is all wrong as well. So my question is, first off is this new 063 worth the time and effort to send it off and have the hands replaced, or is it so wrong that it would be a waste of time, and better to just sell it on and try to find a better version of the 063? I have a hand set from Davidsen, so that part is good. Please give me your honest opinion about the newer 063, is it worth the trouble, or is it a really low grade watch that it wouldn't be worth it as it has too many things wrong. Here are a front and back photo of each watch. Obviously the new one is the one with the red GMT hand. Thanks in advance.