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Everything posted by jpz5142
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I usually change daily, if it's a favorite it might stay on my wrist for a few days before I change.
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Not to bring the thread back to the topic but..... Can someone tell me what the lug size is on the Blancpain? It's staring to grow on me
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EtA 2824 in a Swiss Legend! really..............
jpz5142 replied to Mike on a bike's topic in General Discussion
Back down to $404 if anyone was interested... -
I'm by no means a movement expert but yes there was a Chrono module for the 2892. AFAIK it was just that, a module that was added on top of an existing 2892 base movement. As far as the rotor, don't think they're compatible tried looking at part numbers to prove my point but got crossed eyed.... maybe someone with more authority can come along with the part numbers for you.
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He hides them in his "watch closet", unfortunately even he has problems remembering what is in there...
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It is up there for sure but there are watches that have higher WR. Raven watches has a model with 2500meters WR, same movement but goes for about $400 more so this offering from Borealis has more "bang for the buck".
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Could post the pics here or in the Rolex section
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Have to be careful as a noobie to you it might look like the same watch (they both say Rolex on the dial what gives?). But the "same watch" will be made by many different factories and each at varying level of build. Be careful and make sure that the watches at either dealer your looking at are truly the same. There's the BP factory, N (Noob) factory, H factory, ZF factory and others. These are the "name brand" factories if you will. Each might have different levels of the same watch so just be aware. There's variations in the movement Asian clone vs swiss ETA vs swiss Sellitas and even cheapie using what the rep industry just calls 21j. Sometimes the quality is the same just different movements but not always. It took me forever to realize that there were different factories and I can only spot the difference on some of the reps, it's confusing so be glad you found us and ask questions well try to be as helpful as we can. The best advice is to search around and read, a lot. Once you've found what watch your after (Omega PO 42mm ceramic) for instance you can narrow it down by maker and then movement.
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I'd have to say that's a bunch of data... I'd be willing to say you've gotten a nice letter from your ISP saying, "stop it already!"
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EtA 2824 in a Swiss Legend! really..............
jpz5142 replied to Mike on a bike's topic in General Discussion
Mike, that thing is huge! Lol, bet you never thought you'd hear a guy say that to you.... But seriously, 46mm case with 27mm lug width... We'll need a wristie for this one. -
Probably not, look at how the Rehault on the Borealis compares to the "Ring Lock" Rehault on the DSSD
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Well guys what can I say, I'm a lume snob. I don't have a bedside alarm clock, use my iPhone for an alarm and wear a watch to bed to tell the time. So I prefer to have a well lumed watch for that reason. The Raven is one of my brightest, the easiest to read are my Pam's (don't wear my glasses to bed) My wife "loves" how my matches make the entire bed glow.
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tag Whats the closest Tag rep to original from trusted dealer?
jpz5142 replied to d-sarpong's topic in General Discussion
I'd be pissed if my son bought me a rep but tried to pass it off as a gen... I'd be perfectly OK with a rep as a gift if it was presented as such.... Either buy something else for your Dad or buy a second hand gen for just a bit more than a good rep will cost you. Just my $0.02 -
Unfortunately one of the ways Borealis keeps cost low is they're stenchy with the lume. On the Francis Drake (BlackBay homage) the lume is mismatching and is somewhat week. This 2000m diver is an outstanding value, even if the lume is a bit weak. The comparison to say a Raven Deep 44 is startling. Same movement, similar dial (rolex homage) similar dimensions and based on my Francis Drake I'd say the build quality is good. So for two areas that are better (lume and build quality are better on the Raven) it will set you back almost $400 more (Raven went for about $700 new with a leather strap plus bracelet). This is a great catch MOAB! Keep making me drool with all these finds!
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It's for this reason I feel strongly that if a person can't stomach the possible issues with reps (I'm talking watches not Ken's soft goods here) then they should buy Gens. Their nitpicking only hurts the community as a whole. The dealer is only able to do so much. I like a rep now and again, but for when I just want a watch that I can wear out of the box I buy a gen. I either buy modded reps or get them modded and that takes time. In the end they are all watches to me, I don't particularly need a brand name to impress myself or anyone else, I'd be happy if the dial was stamped "Mr Magoo's Imporium", I just want a watch that I can rely on and has outstanding lume.
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Trust me, I feel the same way. With the prices of reps going up I find myself much more selective about the rep that I do buy. I also find myself buying more mid to moderately priced "gens". Steinhart, Raven, Oris, TagHeuer, RaymondWeil.... Not really hard, it just would cost money, due to hiring of and retaining experienced staff, due to cost of internal rejects, due to many other things. At the end on the day rep makers are all about making money and don't really give a flying fuck about the quality of their products, beyond a very minimalistic level that is to say.
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The point of QC is to ensure to you the buyer that the dealer is sending you the correct watch and that there are no egregious issues such as cracked crystal, missing indices etc. Anything else is what the dealers (and many members here) call "nitpicking". If a rep is known to have SEL gaps, poor/sloppy lume, crooked indices, purple AR etc rejecting a watch based on these principles is poor form. You may not want a watch with those issues but remember dealers don't get to return the watch to the maker just because you don't care for the SEL gap. They have bought it from the maker since you ordered it and can only return (for repair) it if there are those egregious issues mentioned above. The rep game isn't like buying from NeimanMarcus (who have the most lax return policy, they accept any and all returns, don't need receipt, don't even need to have bought the item from them). If you can't deal with getting a rep with any of the "possible" issues that can occur then get a Gen, reps aren't for you.
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Hmmm, the old bait and switch scam. Honestly that doesn't look even worth fixing, there is so much wrong with it to even start.....
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Well I hope for the best, I noticed you joined RWG recently (after you had this issue with the dealer) so don't know how much help the mods can be but you might try to reach out to them.
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Updated: Retiring my first rep (not retired)
jpz5142 replied to droptopman's topic in General Discussion
Ha, so a lost wager by someone else... Sucks for them but luckily for them you were able to help them out (and get a car that you had wanted). Those two tone subs have a nice appeal, I like them but never had one nor certain I could pull one off. Hope Matt can set you up with some parts for it. If not then I'm sure if you wanted you he can source parts to build you a new one. -
Well, ask the dealer to open a claim from his side as you don't have the package and maybe they can provide the delivery confirmation for where/who accepted delivery.
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Updated: Retiring my first rep (not retired)
jpz5142 replied to droptopman's topic in General Discussion
Sounds intriguing... Some sort of lost wager? That or a woman... -
The tracking on this site: http://track-chinapost.com/startairmail.php shows it was delivered on December 8th.
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Well, it might not be best to set the winder for the highest setting and put a watch on there and go away for a month before coming back. That sort of long span between putting the watch on the winder and removing it is probably best to find the most appropriate setting. I might have been out of line with my response, don't want to mislead guys with how to care for their watches. I was just thinking about the occasional over winding not the effects of perpetually keeping the movement at that high of power reserve. But what do I know about wonders, when I want my watch to keeps its power reserve when I'm not wearing them I give them to my sons (5 and 1) and they run around like wild banshees.
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It's my understanding that the auto-winding mechanism in the movement has a clutch that prevents over winding. It just slips when excessive torque is reached. AFAIK the effects of under winding on a winder is that the watch is slow.... Same as if you weren't active enough to wind it yourself, not enough power is in the mainspring.