hologramet

It ain't over until the fat lady sings.... Since I'm going custom fantasy watch, I let the artist do his thing:

I've been sick the last week, but no matter how tough it is lying in a hospital bed. Something like this cheers you up more than chocolate and flowers...

Yes... Sometimes the biggest change vs V5 are the parts missing. In short, most often TDs don't see the differences. So it ain't their fault, but they must put pressure on the factory. I've written quite a lot about how to spot a V6s-bracelet from a frontal pic (alone) in a thread about a Smurf from intime.co The bezel and pearl is tricky as it requires super close -ups and good photo with multiple angles + color references. The dials etc dont matter in NY book as I see a professionally relumed BP-dial (approx 150 USD incl labor) as the "only" option next to genuine. End of mini-rant. :-)

There are several threads about this. V5 bracelet V5 bracelet with new clasp V5 insert with V5 pearl V5 insert with V6 pearl This applies both to LN and LV

It all depends if feasible or not, Gen Daytona parts are quite expensive, and I for one would not buy all the items for a complete Franken. Maybe the parts have already existed for a long time, somewhere on a shelf, unopened, knowing that Rolex never ever makes a replacement case unless old (non existing) is sent in first The welding techniques discussed are most interesting, what is the ETA for a prototype? Becquse Phong is not especially quick at answering. Some measurement of the mvmt would be awesome!

Be careful with the Hulk. There is the first version with "correct" green bezel insert. Then the second with one that is bad. And now they're sending out about 50/50.

So... 6 pcs of NOS FHF 90-5 might come handy...

I'm checking with Yuki and Phong regarding this. I know Phong can do it, I don't know what he'll charge.. But it can't be astronomic compared to the remaining parts. It's a shame 2 pcs 4130's, 1 pc 4030 ... just laying there NOS... and dials, hands, pushers, crowns...

Don't know, whatever it may be... use the tube supplied from Athaya with the crown you decide to use.

Let's have fun instead.... New message to: shawmugha-0 First off, I AM VERY interested in one of these. I have been waiting for one to show up at a good price for over a month. And then just WOW! I have the cash all ready but there are some customs issues. In Sweden, eBay har started sending information about large purchases using PayPal to the shipping Company that you must choose... And then Swedish Customs will put 25% extra on Everything Also there is an additional 5% currency converting fees when using Swedish krone to USD over debit card. Can I have your e -- ma i L add RE e e e ssssss So we can DO it better than the above!! WAITING FOR YOUR EMIAL!

Touché! Yeah.. Now I have a new "hmmmmmm..... maybe I should..." on my radar. Hello google, bye bye spare time.

Hmmm.. I have a weird request. You don't happen to know the size of the 23J-mvmt? Because an acquiantance of mine happens to have all gen parts for a 6-digit Daytona, except for the midcase.

From the master above, before that it came from the Cartel and before that - in-a-reverse "one thing led to another" we, it, and everything else came - from star dust.

@Avenue and @ChrisBlank I would still buy the Noob v6s LN and switch the dial to a BP one and look for a good insert. Then relume with BGW9 Superluminova. Hontestly that is as good as they get without going through too much hassle. P.s. I will reply to both your PMs tomorrow... Swamped at work...

You are so right! BP-dials are almost always better than the Noob-ones. And they often cost about 25USD from a TD (if you buy something else also) Or buy a gen for 400-700 USD and clip the feet! Hard decision...

You also missed the whole point with the thread. el oh el

I just found a dealer that had NOS FHF 90-5 and it seemed very similar, almost ridiculously similar to ETA. And it still seems very-very similar. Am I missing something? Can these be used? Wait... now I get it. Unitas FHF and AS became ETA. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 FHF 905 Features automatic sweep second date: quickset Data 11.5''', Dm= 25.6mm, Do= 26.0mm H= 5.4mm F= 1.45mm T= 1.9mm 17/25 jewels f = 21600 A/h power reserve 43h Balance staff U3440 Stem W3352 Mainspring / battery 1.20 x 10.0 x 0.105mm Hands 1.50 x 0.90 x 0.25mm Comments abo Technical data: FHF 90-5 17/25 jewels, Automatic wind, center second, date, quickset. Size: 11.5''' 25.6 mm. H: = 5.4 mm. N: = 18.000 A/h. Power reserve: 43 h. Versions: 90-4: date. 90-5: date. 90-9: day, date. 905: minor modifications, date. 908: minor modifications, day, date. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 ETA 2451 Features automatic sweep second Data 11.5''', Dm= 25.6mm, Do= 26.0mm H= 5.3mm F= 1.4mm T= 1.85mm 17/21/25/30 jewels f = 18000 A/h power reserve 42h Balance staff U2226 / U3136 for balance with/without screws Stem W2426, W3226 Mainspring / battery Zf869, 1.30 x 9.5 x 0.105 x 300mm Hands 1.50 x 0.90 x 0.21mm Comments about ----- Accoring to the source, it's even 18k bph. So... the small small difference 0.1 mm here and there... Can they be used?

@slay.. Do you mean the cases or cases and dials etc. Why I ask is that we had a little "difference" when you were selling some 6538 dial (?... I think) from MQ and I thought it was ridiculously similar to one from tonny. But you were very persistent it wasn't that way. Having paid serious dineros for it I understand you. And you being more skilled with the vintage rolexes, I accepted your opinion and took is at a fact. Is it still that way? That some parts are different between them?

Slow on the e-mails, but rather less e-mail and more what you expect, a good watch, than rubbing your back with Engrish standard answers and being the head of QC dept this, and Key Account-this, usually written in such similar manners that they must be siamese twins with multiple split personality-schizofrenics. or... hmmm.... maybe there's a more logical answer here. -- If you're clear with what you want and don't want your rep to have. That's what he presents to you. Instead of like some other TDs, trying to get rid of the "acceptable" ones, and therefore going through Qc, and QC, and QC, and QC, until finally you give. up and just take the last one

@ChrisBlank It seems like you understood me right. I'm very direct in my tone, but it's from my line of work. Let's just say that we are in the same business. I'm actually one of the reasons that your pharmacy chain probably is selling less antibiotics. Sentimental value and personal success and financial wealth should sometimes be rewarded. I for one chose a very different approach and my interest in reps is founded in the fact that I "can". I would rather rather build a franken at 75% of the cost, and having a fun story to tell than buying it finished. Life is just a ride as Bill Hicks said. The ride is the meaning. Not the destination. I like to do things the other way around. Instead of buying the top headphone amplifier, I decided to make a clone of it. And I did. Because I could. It probably cost me more. But I wanted to show that it was possible. I don't want to say more as I'm risking exposing and interconnecting different parts of my life that I don't want interconnected. I'm very fond of my internet integrity. As little info as possible. VPNs. Who knows what all the info that Google is accumulating can and will be used for. ... I'm drifting away from topic. If you're goal was the LB, then I understand you. I've never given it too much thought. If you have the funds and you are a bit like me, wanting to do something because it's possible. Franken it, but go all the way... Then go franken. Noob v6s as stock watch, period. Everything is better on it. Well.. case engraving will actually look correct, but incorrect. Anyway... Who wears ceramics on NATOs? It look hideous. Then get the best insert... This one might be tricky. Maybe you can get intime to smooth talk BP and allowing you to purchase an insert and the best dial BP most likely and add to it. +25 USD Add a gen AR'd crystal aprox +200-400EUR Rework + repolish case + bracelet aprox +100-200 EUR Add TC LV v2 hands +45 EUR Add TC v4 DWO +45 EUR Relume job with genuine Superluminova BGW9 +120 EUR If you really want to go crazy... Throw in a Yuki 3135 clone movement and add the gen parts needed. Now we're talking about +1200 EUR. In that case no TC LV v2 hands, instead gen 116610 hands, +100-300 EUR Add gen crown 120EUR Now everything that is a tell depends on the how well the 1) SS can be made to look white goldish, and that is in short, not much 2) The bezel insert will most likely also give it a way if someone brings a loupe! Cheers, holo

It might be just me being grumpy after having a horrible nights sleep... But.this isn't the first time you start a thread, and I can't really see what point you're trying to make. It feels like a new thread is like a status update on Facebook. If you want to start a debate and not just start a thread that'll drift unanswered into oblivion, add some more meat to your initial post. What do you want to discuss? That gen owners don't like reps? I wouldn't either if a major part of my self esteem was linked to the fact that my watch is real, shines a little extra and costs a whole lot more. Cheers,

The insert is OK, but the new BP ones are much better (the ones with "wrapped" bezels, bracelets etc...). Don't know if they released a new Smurf however. --- Ask yourself, why do you want the Rolex Smurf? I'm going to do it easy for you. You don't want to regret the buy in half a year, and feel like one of those guys with a 200k $ "Tourbillon" VC or Patek and driving a 10k $ VW Polo. I'm not shallow, and actually don't care about being "called out" as I always say it's a replica/assembled from combination of real and aftermarket parts. BUT the fastest form of communication we send to others is the "iconic" communication. You will more likely be assumed to be shallow/materialistic if you show up at work with foundation, fake Gucci sunglasses, LV bag and pinstripe suit. especially if you work at a call centre. You might create obstacles socially before you even open your mouth for the first time. Why constantly paddle up stream? Sooooo... Let's get back to the point. Why do you want to purchase a rep of a watch that is "white gold" and costs numerous times more than a regular LN or LV? Unless you invested in Apple 1998 and just sold your stocks, the ones that know what it is, will most likely assume that it's fake. The ones that don't know that it's white gold and extremely expensive will also assume it's fake. What I'm trying to say is wear a watch that's right for you, your age, your profession. If you're 20-30 the Black Bay is much more suitable than a Smurf. Or a SM300? Maaaaaaybe a 114060/116610. If you just like the design. And the color isn't thaaaaat important. Just buy the Noob V6s LN. --- To finish my jumpy rant off... If you really want the LB, buy that one. It's about as good as they get from that model/maker (I think), If you now have doubts about the watch, or you want a near perfect rep, reconsider other alternatives. /V 1) Yes 2) I think so. However nowadays, BK is just a glorified drop-shipper that has a good partner in the Orient, that picks among the better ones. Also, the Swiss ETA is from factory, and usually dusty, used. In my opinion it's better to save the extra cash and invest in a gen crystal and a movement clean + regulation of an A2836 Cheers,

I think it looks very good actually. A gen crystal and maaaaaybe a gen crown. If you really want to go big baller have the case and bracelet reworked/repolished. But it's diminishing in return gained quite fast.