Dizzy

I hate having to do the outside of the crown guards... Just having to do the insides is sooooo much easier

Awesome watch.. horrible shade of green, but then again i dont like the new blue dials either.. too pastel looking for my taste I dont even like the old green LV bezels.. I'd buy an LV and throw the insert away and put in a black one. I cant believe they made the dial green now too.. brutal.

Do you need to replace the tube on these ones? Or does the gen 703 screw right on??? Not having to replace the tube makes it much much easier for the newer modders!

HAHA i didnt even see that.. looks Chinese to me! lol Its an awesome watch.. looks gen.. even the dial is awesome but im not convinced its a genuine red dial, pretty darn close though. The differences i am talking about are so small that you can barely see them without magnification or very close inspection. I just pulled up doubleredseadweller.com and compared to the feet first, open 6 red dials pictured there.

Im not a big expert on the tiny little detail differences between the different red dials... BUT for the feet first dial, the red SUBMARINER should be slightly shorter than the text below it.. the C in chronometer on the open 6 dials should have a serif on it almost making it look like a G. The cornet looks ok.. crown looks like a 702 twinlock.. bracelet looks correct to me... date code for 1970 seems right for the feet first dial... meters first would be older... probably gen white 1680 with a aftermarket or redial red feet first open 6 dial?? dizz

Ive always just used a little drop of GS hypo, and if the case threads are getting beyond repair and leaking is a concern, then i use locktight (thicker liquid) to help seal it up. Do you have pics of these little washers? Are the conical in shape or flat? I see the 703 washer is plastic. Is that so it can form to the countersink needed in the case to get the 703 tube to sit flush? Very interesting indeed Dizz

lol

I always put down a tiny tiny thin bead of GS-hypo.. place the crystal where you want it and lightly give it an 1/8th of a turn so make sure you have a good seal and no gaps in the glue.. then press on your retention ring. Should be sealed up nice and tight after that dizz

I guess it depends what you want the outcome to be? You can build a NICE 16610 on a budget with a Noobmariner and some minor mods. If you want vintage go with one of those new 1680's from Puretime. If you want even cheaper, get one of the $99 vintage subs from Silix and mod it. I just built a nice little 1680 for my girlfriend using a silix 1680 case, drilled out the lugs for gen 2mm bars, silix red sub dial and cheap movement whatever it is, clarks t-19 with no cyclops, better bezel insert, gen crown and tube and some trimmed crown guards.. oh yeah and an old MBW rivit oyster bracelet. It looks pretty damn good actually.. looks just as good as my franken MBW1680 from 2 feet away. I almost didnt give it to her when i was done lol Dizz

Now im starting to think twice about all those used 703 triplocks i bought on ebay!! lol So far ive been lucky with adding new o-rings... Excellent post Freddy Dizz

i'd buy that for sure as long as the movement isnt rusted out...

My lord Charlie is brave!! haha thats way toooo close for me! My friend was clearing out a bunch of "junk" as he called it from his Jewelery store... I got a gen Rolex big wooden box, the one with the leather buckle on the top and a 9315 folded bracelet (very worn) with a broken newer Tudor clasp. I tossed the clasp and put on a old 93150 rep clasp for now.. its got the proper end links attached and everything. The bracelet is very stretched but i did some work to it and now its solid.. still stretched but at least its not going to break... ... Got the bracelet and the box for $50 The bracelet is already attached to my 5514 Comex.. got the crown and tube installed tonight... almost complete!

haha i gotta agree with TT... pretty damn good for $200-300 bucks.. As the reps get better, we get more and more picky lol Take this rep.. drill out the lugs and toss in a NDT or Yuki dial.. OR toss in a 1675 dial and some GMT hands and pepsi bezel... ooooohhhhhh

I read this on another forum and thought it might be fun! Lets pretend for a minute that everyone was allowed to buy and drive only ONE single vehicle. You would have to use it for everything from going to the store to get milk, to driving it to work and when you are out enjoying your hobbies on the weekends...You know... if you like to cruise in the sun down past the beach with the wind in your hair, you might want to buy a new BMW 6-series converable, If you want to drive up and down twisty mountain roads you would probably buy somehitng like an AWD Audi RS6 or mayble a Porsche C4 all wheel drive sports car... but.. then you wouldnt be able to go mudding on the weekends... hhmmm... Maybe you just love 4x4ing and you live in Hickville USA. Maybe then you would build a hummer H1 becauses that still half ass ok on the highway if you want to drive to the next town for dinner. But if you loved to do landscaping for all your neighbors, they you wouldnt be able to buy a McLaren SLR would you? Ever try to get 3 bails of dirt and some shovels and rakes into a cramped supercar? Do you get the idea? You need to chose the coolest car that will fit your current lifestyle and be functional for everyday use. Spend as much as you want! Heres what i would buy if i could choose any one vehicleand you would own ONE only, that i would have to drive EVERY day for the next year lets say... I travel a LOT on the highway on a weekly basis about 400km each way to my different job sites. A Ferrari would be nice but useless if i had to haul some boxes or tools... There isnt lots of snow in the citys, BUT there is a lot of snow on the high mountain highways in Western Canada here so i would need something that can handle that.. So the Ferrari 599 is crossed off the list... haha.. But an Audi RS4 would be perfect.. I like fast cars muscle cars withgood leather interior. A 300c SRT8 is a nice version of that. Sometimes for work i have to pick up orders from the wholesaler.. those can be many heavey boxes so any small car just wont do. I could get a nice new F350 or something but that would suck ass on the highway at speed. I think i would pick.... A good performance sport utility.. powerfull.. sporty on the highway, can carry lots of stuff when needed and will get me through the snow in the Canadian winters.. My second choice would have been the new S550 Mercedes 4Matic ****Porsche Cayanne Turbo perfect! Lets see what you guys would buy if you could only drive one and were stuck with it.

other than the dial it looks ok to me. lug holes can be drilled easy enough.. i can live with the dial i suppose. I do agree that the gen crown guards look funny but they are better on the rep Looks like a VERY good out of the box vintage rolex. dizz

looks like we went 50 years in the future!!! New vintage retro no date left hand drive! haha I like it!!

Looks good to me.. looks like a wm9 dial anyways. Hows the rest of the clasp and bracelet?

They use reps all the time.. did you guys see the Daytona they used in LOST? hahahha it was a HORRIBLE rep from about 10 years ago. Ive seen Cameron with a Submariner before so it might even be her own personal watch.

you dont really have much choice when it comes to a new daytona. Either the fake chrono version with the chronohand as the regular seconds hand, or the unreliable sec @ 6, 7750 movement. I would personally stay away from both unless you are willing to send the new watch to a watchmaker for graphite servicing right away. Thats one of the only known ways to make a sec @ 6 movement reliable. Are you stuck on the idea of having a Daytona? there are much better Rolex reps available these days depending how much you want to spend. WM9 submariners can run you $600 or you can get a new Ceramic submariner or GMT or vintage Submariner or sea-dweller for around $200. Just an idea. If you absolutely have to have a daytona, DO NOT use the chronograph (watch will live longer that way) and send it to a relible watchmaker for the graphite treatment. You can find out about this treatment by doing a search on this forum. good luck dizz

I'd rather get one from PureTime with the proper slow beat genuine ETA 2846 instead of this clone 2836... same price too.

I saw a thread on timezone about this exact issue on a gen. The little lug is just welded on. That would suck to lose a gen DSSD or Submariner because of this. yikes!

MBW would be a good choice. Not super cheap but a very good starting point... about $350 or so. Add a gen crown and tube, bleach the insert and get some vintage lume work done on the dial and you are good to go. dizz

i think it looks better this way. I was thinking of polishing mine. The way it looks now is just all dull and lifeless.. this one looks better i think, more classy

I would be interested also. I am planning a white 1665 project...

Damn bro that's sweet. Excellent work on this one. I was thinking about using a regular 5513 dial on my 5514 project also. If I come across a nice gen dial then I might just do that. Where are u getting the caseback made??? What's the aproximate cost? I was just going to polish my rep caseback down until the comex is almost gone...