Dizzy

Flav you are a good man. But it looks like you've beem scammed. It sounds like this IDIOT had this planned right from the beginning. He was doing this on purpose. you told him that you would let him know when you had time to mod them, yet he sent them right away anyways with no information. The he waited until one watch was done and suddenly complained about the price. Then you offered it modded for free plus a refund. Then after he gets the watch he tried to get some free parts from you and threatens you at the same time? 48 hours? Fukk him 48 hours. Who deals with business that way? This loser had this planned from day one. He was only trying to get free work from you and had to go about it in the most unintelligent way possible. What a sad sad person this is, I feel sorry for his parents and family. Dont let one stupid retard hurt your feelings.. that was an excellent post. Prob the most honest thing i have ever read. Im sorry that this had to happen to such a respected member. Lonnie

post some pictures of your Sea-dweller and we will tell you if its authentic MBW Lonnie

i like the "destroyed" look sure doesnt look like a rep anymore with all the carnage LOL people will think "Man thats gotta be 20 yrs old by the shape its in..."

i have an ETA 7750 chrono avenger black dial with zero AR and sometimes there is so much glare that you cant see the hands or the time LOL. It makes it really hard to read most of the time because the crystal is just so very shiney. My Breitling Bently has "light AR" and the difference is amazing! Its not that cool blue looking AR but it stops most all the glare and you can see the dial perfectly in any lighting. Its pretty impressive. I wonder when Rolex is gunna figure out what AR is? LOL

Heres something for ya, I wonder what the "real" name for the watches known as the MBW's really is? What i mean is, when Maria went to buy them... who did he get them from? And you hear of "old MBW" cases from who knows how long ago. Where were they orig from? What was the name of that shop? Or were they just known to the guys in the factory as "RIG-BP" (Rolex is gunna be [censored]) LOL that would be funny Would be interesting to find out the real original name for these highend vintage watches is something like "Jimmy Polex Market Manufacturing Version A". So then in the for sale threads we would see.... Wanted: JPMM-VA 1665 Rolex DRSD with Gen crystal and Bezel. ha ha ha And what about the "DW" daytonas? Maybe made by the same guys that make the "MBW"? Do they make a MBW daytona? One day I'll find a secret guide to whats avail in the "MBW" level and then i'll be broke hahaha LOnnie

This is a very interesting topic because there has been a lot of talk about the prices of reps lately especially since the explosion of the "Big Bang" (pun intended ). What surprises me most is people selling brand new hardly worn un-modded watched for the same or a few bucks more than our dealers offer. Its like they buy it, wear it for 6 months then try to sell it for what thay paid. I saw one submariner selling for $10 more than the collectors price about a month ago. Well ya.. in a perfect world... And i agree that some "super modded" franken watches are getting up there in price but a lot of time you get what you pay for (and depending who modded it as was mentioned) You get Gen parts and a LOT of labour. God i just spent 6 hours easy drilling my lugs and SELs on my 16610.. not to mention another couple of days to get the case to a perfectly beaten perfection. Theres a lot of time involved so that should be sometimes taken into consideration depending on the quality of the piece. This is where you have to look closely at the pics and maybe get a little history on the modder. ANd when i say all this im not talking about the highend reps with gen movements or the Zenith franken daytonas and watches of that caibre. Thats something completely different. Those are basicly gen watches built from many parts watches. Kinda like the difference between a "numbers matching" collector car and a similar car thats been changed around over the years. Back to what i was rambling on about... I would have no problem paying $600-800 for a perfectly modded MBW type 1665 with gen cyrstal, bars, crown etc if its done right and done with care. Otherwise if its just bolted together with some gen parts and case looks brand new and unworn like it just came out of the factory.. then its still a $400 MBW watch to me. I look at the "extras" put into a project.. the repolishing and refinishing, the care and attention to the little things that give it character... the vintage leather or the plastic crystal thats got distortion for many years of polishing. That old rolex-pam on leather that Flavor Flav is selling is worth every cent in my opinion becasue its a beautiful watch and looks just right to me. But then i'll see a "fiddy" (one of my favorite watches) thats well built but looks bright and shiny new and i wouldnt even want it. I cant stand to even look at a rep brand new out of the box. I have to immediatly attack it with my small hammer, sandpaper, then the dremel and polishing wheels before i will even wear it. The only exception in my collection is my Rollie day-date with diamonds. Its mint but it should be that way. My daytona is still new looking but its gunna get it soon trust me ha ha ha. Anyways.. Theres a lot we can discuss when it comes to deceiding whats worth what $. as i always say "you get what you pay for" and as long as you are dealing with an honest seller, then this is usually the case. The seller feedback section is there for this reason and its a very important part of our forum. Ive always been talking about my upcoming 16610 MBW project but you know what? I think im almost done my 16610 project as i have turned my BORING ETA noobmariner into what i call a work of art. I have no reason to build an MBW anymore as this chinese super rep is actually a great base to start with. The only thing i havent done is the gen crown and tube but i think i am gunna order one today and get that done. Then will my franken 16610 noob be worth $188.. $400...or even $600? I guess it depends on the buyer, and what the buyer finds important. If they want plain old acuracy then a new shiny noob is perfect at $100-188. If someone doesnt have access to modding tool and dremels and is afraid to chop up their own crown guards, then its prob worth $400. Once i add the gen crown and tube and perfect mag cyclops then maybe its worth $600. Its hard to tell. Im never gunna sell it anyways. I absolutely LOVE my "new" noobmariner. I've got blood, sweat and tears (literaly) invested in this watch and you will have to pry it from my cold, dead hands.... Lonnie

haha yeah i'll agree with Pugwash.. Daytona all the way

it looks pretty good i think as long as your not side but side with a gen. Drill out those lug holes and vintagize it a little and i think you will have a nice piece Lonnie

wow beautiful!!!!! lucky you!

didnt even think of that but you are absolutely corrrect! that subdial just SCREAMS fake

The chinese factories should have NO problem replicating these stupid looking crownguards LOL. They are used to making them look like this when they arnt supposed to... haha

hehe im suddenly craving a UPO... these ones look soooo nice

sorry to hear! get well soon!

HA HA HA you didnt notice the big bag of "flour" a few pics before mine? LOL The most illegal thing i own is my Submariner replica... and yes the cz75 is fully registered and i am a member of 2 different shooting ranges. If was in the controlled substance business i sure as hell wouldnt be buying replicas HAHA

yeah it sure if goofy lookin... i wasnt a fan of the orig Yachetmaster either but this this just horrible wow

Yeah its a little big hey? i was hoping nobody would notice I ended with a 1.5 mm bit and heres why. When i drilled the lugs from the inside i had to drill on an angle of course.. i drilled with the shaft of the drill almost touching the point of the lug. This was the right angle to make sure the hole came out in the right place (visual reason only), not to high and not to low. Anyways.. these angled holes didnt allow the gen rolex bars to poke all the way through so you could see them. in fact they hardly had any "bite" at all. I drilled them bigger only so the Gen springbars would extend fully. I personally love lug holes so i dont mind them a little big But you are right 1.2mm would be ideal. If i was drilling an MBW or something then it would be no problem at all as they are pre-drilled straight through like the gen case. This entire process scared the hell outta me so you all know.. i knew one slip and the case was toast LOL. This is my beater/experiment watch anyways so im not to worried about it. PLUS im still a noob.. not to replicas, but a noob to this whole "frankenwatch" thing so im still learning to skills Lonnie *update: I just drilled my noob SEL's for the Gen springbars and wow there isnt much material left ha ha ha! One of the SEL's actually broke during drilling (whoops) which shows that the noob endlinks are actually made of THREE seperate pieces of stainless steel and fused/glued together. Thats why the SEL looks so "sharp" and defined. Once on the watch you cant tell its snapped apart. Its strong and should be fine. You cant even see if you are looking for it. I had to file a LOT all around the SEL to get it to fit the case again but the look was well worth it. I now have my 16610 with lugholes!

well if its 100% gen parts then its 100% gen!! cant wait to see the finished product! Lonnie

well here is the Noob with its new lugholes! haha no special tools.. just a cordless drill, a couple of drill bits, some REALLY sore fingers, and an hour of time. Gen spring bars added. I drilled out the noob SEL to 2mm but the spring bar wont go through. I will have to get a bit just over 2mm tomorrow and give them a once over. Heres a few fast pics. hasnt been polished out yet so its rough I have a hollow endlink bracelet on it for now..

lol ha ha ha oh good!

holy [censored] i think i just [censored] myself im laughing so hard!!! LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL holy cow... whew... breathe Lonnie breathe.. sorry, but wow that was good. Thats a cute little orange outfit you got there hehe PS - Zig, please dont throw the pieces of my DRSD on the floor. haha Well if you must.. at least take pics for the forum haha Lonnie

than an "interesting" datejust.. prob the same bling line as the cheetah print PIMP daytona that Pug bought haha. My fav watch for diamonds are breitlings. You can get a BCE black dial with diamond bezel but not sure about the hour markers.. Lonnie

yeah clean the pins and inside of the hole in the link very very well and use epoxy or crazy glue gel... not much.. just half a drop will do lots. LOnnie

yep the back of the bracelet is nice and smooth and polished, no damage.. the caseback has a LOT of tool marks and fully polished. I have now high polished the case sides and bracelet sides and brushed the bracelet. It now look slike a 20 year old watch that has had a hard life, and been through the AD a few times for case work and polishing Now i just need a proper cyclops as the date mag is only about 2x and i like it 2.5-3x I found a NICE little dremel wheel part #511 i believe it is. Its like an abrasive scrubby pad (like a dish or plate scrubber) and it makes FAST and easy work of rounding off case edges perfectly without machining marks. But be warned, it takes of a lot of material fast, but leaves a great even finish compared to any file or grinding wheel. I'll post pics as soon as i can. I left my camera at work LOnnie

i am a firm believer in "you get what you pay for" but, i have a lot of experience with taps and dies so'll i'll give it a shot (experiment) with the cheapo tap and post my findings. I agree the $40 tap is better but its such a huge difference in price... seems a little inflated maybe just becasue of its size and probable limited uses. Either way i will let you know how it works out Lonnie

take a small file and remove some material from where the endlink meets the case. Try about 1mm and go from there. This will suck the whole endlink closer to the case and your springbars will be 1mm closer to the holes. worked for me. Just be careful to keep the edge even or you will have a messy gap between the endlink and case. PS this is comon on a lot or replicas expecially newer ones with tighter and solid endlinks. They need that tension to keep the end link solidly in place?. I took the band off my Rolex day date rep and it toook me about an hour to get it back on. LOnnie