chrgod

There was a discussion about this yesterday.. Someone had bought the cheaper version and commented that the pearl on that one was really bad, and not as on the pictures.. I can't find the discussion at the moment. I have the Swiss version, from Trusty, ad must say that it is an excellent rep! Well worth the money! This will be my regular beater for some time, and I am glad that I choose the better moment. It will also give bigger resale value, in case I ever sell it. I bought it just before the Chinese version hit the market. One thing I really like about this watch is that the crown feels rock solid when it is unscrewed and pulled out. My one-year old Omega SMP, with ETA, is a very nice watch, but the crown feels a bit wobbly when it is unscrewed. The ultimate PO feels like a genuine quality piece in all aspects. Just some rough edges on the bracelet and a slightly offset pearl puts it down. Also, I think that the date window is a little bit too small. However, I am pretty sure that the newer Chinese movements are good pieces and capable of performing well in many years. I would feel safe with that as well... It is up to you.

:wub: :wub: Nice GMT-Master... I suppose this is the version with the correct hand stack? Your choices for first-buy seems to be sensible.. It is a basic, bulletproof eta-movement and quite trustworthy dealers.( even though Paul at wo-mart is getting mixed reviews) .. The gold plating on the two-tone watch will wear down eventually, buth the current plating is much better than previously.

Well, I assume you know that you start and stop the chrono by pushing the button@2 o'clock, and reset it by pushing the button@4 o'clock? It is impossible to tell what is wrong, without you giving more information. Sometimes, the chrono does not work if the watch is low on power.. The Asian 7750 movement is a very sensitive movement. It is easy to screw things up and destroy it if you don't know what you are doing. There are a lot of threads on this. The most important things, as I can recall, are: 1. Never change the date between 9 PM and 3 AM. 2. Never press the chrono reset button (button@4) when the chronograph is running. 3. Preferably let the chrono run for at least 15 seconds before stopping it. In fact, at least the two first notes also apply for the genuine ETA 7750, but of course the Asian is even more sensible for "human error".. I recommend you read the info in the Technical section and the Knowledge base about this movement. The Zigmeister has an excellent review of the Asian 7750. It is an extensive review in three parts. Good luck, I hope it is not broken!

Tragic..

Oh my God! What have you done to my watch!

Well said!

I guess it wont be long before we will see reps of the new Seamasters with red writing, I bet it will take a month or two. So far the Seamaster Professional replicas, both the regular and the Chronograph, are considered to be among the best reps around. Probably the basic ETA in the regular version will outlast the Asian 7750 in the Chronograph. Even though the newest asian 7750 is rather reliable in unmodified form.

No real difference, almost the same movement. 2836 can provide day and date, while 2824 can only provide date. I belive there also is a slight difference in the teoretical power reserve. On eta.ch you can download the spec sheets for all eta movements.

deleted.. double post.

Very tasteful collection. Your Navitimer has a very good datewheel. It looks as if it is not deep set, guess it is just the lightning.

Negative Ghost Rider. The pattern is full! I would like a replica Tomcat..

Nah... I have that one, from Watchadoo. It smells kind of funny and feels rather cheap. The big Seiko Chronograph on the bottom have that strap. The black Angelus Chronograph on the right also has a Watchadoo strap.

Congratulations. White dial is sure a good looker. Now, I am in doubt as to choose graphite dial or white... I wonder... The "B" on the big seconds hand seems a bit odd. The mid horizontal line on the "B" does not go all the way into the vertical line. like on the ones from 2-3 years ago... A very minor "flaw", but I hoped that they had fixed it.. Looks as the date font is a little bit bolder on the gen as well. This is the gen, also with "28" on the date.

The Date Font is the only issue that I personally think really differ.. Breitling uses slightly bigger numbers than the regular ETA font. But the font on Angus' Evo is very close, only less bold. Genuine

Here are a varity of "Racing" leather straps. http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tre...29518&rid=0 Non-Brand, but quite cheap, about 25USD each.. I think I eventually will buy the Carrera Chrono, and have a perforated leather strap to add some choice. What are the lug width of the Carrera? 20mm?

I feel sorry for you. This is a nice watch, and quite expensive for a rep. Fitting a genuine 2892-2 would be a nice touch. Guess you can email the dealer and sort out the options. Good luck!

Nice "everyday" pictures. They are valuable when it comes to determine how a watch really looks! This is not a flashy watch, in fact it looks a bit old. How do you experience the band? Some have described the Carrera band as "cheap feeling" while the Link band is generally recognized as one of the best replica band around. Nice dial by the way, the orange accent makes it stand out, and is a nice tribute to the seventies Autavia!

Silix does indeed have some good offers "hidden" on his page.. Lots of his ETA-Rolexes are cheap, and a good base for some modding. I will probably be in for the JB sub as well, if it get another run.. I asked him about that one after the model had been discontinued.

Go for the perforated leather strap. It complimentes the racing style of the watch and are not that expensive.. I have seen a guy selling genuine TH leather straps on TZ sales corner.. I think the date font is a little bit off. TH uses the stock ETA datewheel with a bit more angular numbers than the Asian 7750.

As Angus says in his ad, this watch does not have AR. Date alignment is usually not an issue with unmodified ETA or Asian movements. I think this watch will follow up the recent trend with high quality bracelets and parts. Of course there will be minor differences from the original, that you discover when you have the watch in your hand. Like the bezel and crown feel... A genuine TAG Link or a high quality rep Breitling ( for about 1/3rd of the price for a used gen..) Your call! EDIT: The advertisment says that the ETA-version has AR, while the Asian version has no AR.

177..... cm, that is.. I think that is almost 6 feet.

Anyway..... "Le Fish de la Steel" is here ... http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=20374

Finally the Steelfish surfaces! And it looks good. ( Cool with the depth rating..) I suppose the Asian version has the same, ETA-type, datefont? I just noticed that my new ultimate PO has almost identical font for the 6-9-12 on the dial... That number style must be in fashion at the moment!

Yep.. The hands might still be a bit too short.. But still better than the old rep-version. Crown looks a bit odd, too dark. It looks better in other pictures. I bet the GMT-funcion is the same as on the regular Explorer II/ GMT-master reps, ith individually settable GMT-hand. It usually functions well. The original is ETA 2892-A2 based. Interesting to read By-Tors review of the 95 USD Seamaster GMT. This watch has been made with both the Seamaster bracelet ( as the watch advertised on TZ) and the Speedmaster bracelet.. :-) For those interested in the Seamaster-GMT, here is a review on that model Omega Seamaster GMT review ( Thanks to Chronus for posting the link in By-Tors post) This is the Genuine.. Personally, I am hard pressed to see the error in the transition between black and silver on the bezel, compared with the rep..

The newest ETA-based Seamaster GMT is a stunner... with correct long hands. A bit expensive, though. This picture are from PureTime: For some strange reason, the dial says "GMT automatic" and not "GMT Chronometer". I don't know if there are two different versions??