Sogeha

I know we are talking genuine parts here, but that is genuinely destroyed. I questioned my sanity committing five grand to a big crown build. Five grand Sterling for a knackered insert!

I have seen a couple of red subs with serial numbers that put them well into white sub production. My guess is someone had a spare dial or a dial in a beat up case and thought they could pull a fast one by swapping it into another case. Knowing this and Rolex having a tendency to "update" things at service, there may be the occasional red sub that now has a white dial.

Anyone seen this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-70s-ROLEX-Submariner-5513-Original-military-case-parts-/391479718593?hash=item5b260272c1:g:~iwAAOSwaG9XJkp0

Of course so... The questions that have answers aren't worth asking after all. If we merely ask questions expecting to find an answer, we fail at our purpose of asking questions in the first place. Besides, there is nothing immoral, and the pursuit of knowledge is inherently moral, so yeah, great question !

You are very welcome. We all started out new at some time. Have a poke around the forum, learn to use the search functions and follow a few threads that interest you. The depth of knowledge here is incredible. I guarantee that if you stay with us, in 12 months you will know more about watches and reps than you ever thought possible.

Welcome to he forum Victor. If you stick around a while you will come to accept that even the very best reps have some flaws and that we tend to obsess over small details that can only really be seen on highly magnified images. In truth gens sometimes have small variations too, but these tend to be seen as desirable. So being constructive a Noob is a good watch, way better than my first rep which wouldn't fool a ten year old in a dark room. Toro has a good reputation and I have bought from him with no issues at all. I like the non date Subs. How long a rep lasts? How long is a piece of string? It's mechanical, stuff breaks sometimes. Maybe bad luck, maybe a knock. On the other hand it's mechanical, it can be fixed. Worst case scenario, you can put a new movement in. The Chinese 2836 is a reasonable movement and the ETA original Swiss version is very reliable. Either will fit. So in the end it's like any other mechanical watch, it will last as long as you are happy to fix it when it needs fixing. As to local watch repair shops, it depends, some are perfectly okay repairing reps, some don't want to know. If you have a problem you need fixed anytime, ask on the forum for local help or recommendations.

Sorry to read you were ill enough to be in hospital. I hope you are recovered and have no lasting problems.

We all know there are people who's only interest in counterfeit goods is to project themselves as something they are not. I think most or all the people who regularly read this forum are really interested in watches. Maybe some have champagne taste and beer money, maybe not. I get the impression that there are some very wealthy members here. I like vintage watches mostly. I have a few genuine ones and although I like them, I have to admit that like most things one buys, the buzz only lasted a short time and then they kind of just became something nice I own. The watches I've hunted down parts for, learnt how to do stuff on and found talented, knowledgable friendly guys to help me with still give me a buzz every time I glance at them. Not all my franken watches are expensive, I play about with seiko modding and that's really cheap. I have a seiko with a pilot type dial and dagger hands that took me almost a year to build because I did it all myself with no prior watch repair knowledge. A watch like that is special no matter what the cost of the parts was. I live in rural Ireland. Very few people I meet would know the difference between a Swiss watch and Canal Street's finest. I was once asked if my genuine Omega Speedmaster was a Fossil. I said "no it's just something I picked up secondhand". As to where I am on the list, well I think I'm still at every point except 8.

No guarantee you will even get a watch, maybe you will just get a wack on the head. Last year certain types were selling new Apple MacBooks very cheap on the streets. Most buyers ended up finding they were the victim of a slick switch job and got a fake MacBook box with an Argos catalogue in it. Not a TD, stay away.

Since I started to read the AP threads I have developed a liking for the 15400 and 15450. I assume many of the fit and finish mods that are done on divers and Off Shore models could be done on these? Is it within the bounds of possibility to buy a genuine dial and fit it?

Personally I work on a percentage of the cost of a genuine, not a monetary value. I'm reasonably happy with about 30% of the value of the cheap end of genuine secondhand values. If a watch is available secondhand for less than two grand, I'll probably buy a genuine version. I'm gathering parts for a Big Crown build and I expect to put four or five thousand into that. However I can't imagine getting a genuine 6538 for less than 35000. Also I never intend selling, so I'm less interested in resale value.

The more I look at that dial, the more I like it. Also I have a fondness for agate beads.

First stop, try the dealer you got the watch from. If that doesn't bring any joy try other dealers, but be prepared to maybe buy another watch as a sweetener. Puretime will help with parts if you buy a watch at the same time.

I just noticed your post has 26 views and no replies, so I thought I would fix that and welcome you onboard.

I'm quite happy to let mine auto-renew. It's five Dollars a month, if that means my favourite forum can keep going, I'm happy.

Very nice. Congratulations Dbane.

The information on Swiss or Japanese quality puts me right off. If anyone gets a watch at all from this site it is for sure going to be Chinese.

Your welcome. Let us know how you get on, we all like a good build thread.

Maybe message him. I have seen a gilt 5513 on his Instagram page. I'm no expert, just a vintage obsessed moron who spends too much time on the Internet. I am however currently looking for a 5513 1964, ideally first quarter. I think your serial dates from 1963. Here is a page I read recently, might be helpful if you haven't already found it. http://www.watchprosite.com/?page=wf.forumpost&fi=732&ti=829288&pi=5604248

Depends on budget. Many are happy with Tonnywatches dials. They are a lot less than Minh, some say they are the same/similar/possibly from the same source. They are real gilt, but not lacquer, they are printed I think.

I'm no expert, but as I understand it gilt dials ran until 1966 on subs, so even if it was a service dial, wouldn't it still be gilt, given the dial would have had to be replaced at latest the year before the film release to allow for filming?

This is not just my favourite rep watch forum, it is my favourite part of the Internet period. I am delighted to see all the efforts being made to improve and develop the forum. Thanks guys.

Amen to that brother.

I like to dream big, but in the real World I would settle for a Roger Smith :-)

I second that. I had an email from him last week and I would trust him more than I trust most.