RickFlorida

Curious.....did you replace the bezel assembly or use the cartel?

Thank you for posting these pictures. The caliper specs on different sections is very informative. I would to see similar shots with an original 5513 case if it's different.

Once more, I always thought there are too many inconsistencies with buying the extremely expensive hand shaped cases. But I'm probably wrong because why would the inside be off where there is no hand shaping? We really need to just directly CNC or 3d print cases with perfect specs.

Cool, your vintage markers and hands work is freaking amazing! I was gonna try to vintage my own Yuki 7928 dial but after seeing your work, I may ask about your services. You are a true artist.

Sweet, where will you find the 2846? I need one soon as well.

At least cartel cases are consistent.

Now I hear this? Darn. I thought Yuki dials were pretty accurate so thanks for the heads up. I wonder why he doesn't fix that inaccuracy.

Do you do your own engraving for the case backs?

Nice. So it says a special eta? I'm surprised they had eta build a custom movement, isn't that usually more expensive? Nice price for a Swiss watch.

Yes, thank you. Great thread. I study it for my project. If only someone could take precise measurements of each dimension for guidance.

And by thick of case, you mean height of case body is a bit thick if you look at profile view? Checking in case I try to mod my newer Cartel 5513.

No worries mate.

Spelling error might refer to newer Cartel case that says "staileless steel" between lugs. That means this is a fairly new 5513 build. Maybe I'm wrong as the cg's look too thick. So did the older cartel 5513 also have the spelling error? I have one too and still getting parts. The biggest problem is you have to buy a new bezel assembly because the cartel one has correct case neck, but then the bezel and/insert are not to spec so they glue the insert instead of pressure fit. The glued inserts fall off in water. So I love the case, but you spend more money on bezel assembly than the 2813 version of the whole watch!

Surprisingly, I do see some listed at Star Time but for 190. I would greatly appreciate another source if anyone has some?

I'm also surprised there is no inexpensive watch service through Fiverr.com or overseas/outsourcing that I know of. We buy and sell our watches over seas, so what is the cost to service in Singapore or India, etc?

There are lots of hair cut schools where you can save 50% of a hair cut by letting a student cut it, under supervision of a master. May take longer but it gets done. Is there any watchmaking school where we can send our old ETA's to get serviced for discount by waiting longer too? I want to get a 2846 for a project but they all need service due to age, and minimum cost is probably 180 to 200 I'm thinking.

After looking at the picture of side by side..... My opinion is The bracelet is the same but simply polished more. So there still is no perfect bracelet rep. You can see brush finish on left, and much less brush finish on right meaning it has more polished finish. Where can I read/see about glidelock version and how can I make one?

OK thanks. Can any expert comment if the bracelet is any better? Or is it the same? I ask because I read that the Yuki nor cartel bracelet clasps are far from perfect and that there are no good bracelets. If this is improved it would be good to know.

Anyone think it would be possible to order just a tudor case back that's engraved or his source never sells parts?

People like me, who only dive for lobster up to 35 feet. Over 60 feet I agree it's better to use good gauges and computers.

Just get a Yuki 7928 dial. It looks exactly the same to me. Fits all eta 28xx

I make jewelry, and I found that if you have two different materials ( brass is hard, the epoxy soft), it is difficult to sand them both flat together. Even on a perfectly smooth surface. The soft epoxy will want to move/tear while the hard brass will achieve the finish you will soon see a concave hole in the epoxy. Better to solder the holes with quality silver solder or copper colored solder.

Soft solder is very soft and porous, difficult to sand smooth. So I recommend silver solder, ( just sharing in case others try). Silver solder will give a higher quality finish to help achieve which ever texture/finish needed. There is a copper colored solder you can buy, but it won't be a perfect color match to brass. I can't find a link to copper colored solder but beading makers and jewelers get it online. But here is good quality silver solder I get from hardware store. But you will need a perfectly clean dial for solder to flow, and the challenge of quality silver solder is that the required temperature is high. You can't use an electric solderer. So that might be why some are recommending to fix the holes with epoxy. You could melt the brass dial if you are new with hard soldering with torches. But it's easy with practice. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1382484&KPID=1133536&cid=CAPLA:G:Shopping_-_Solder1_-_New&pla=pla_1133536&k_clickid=978fed33-3a9f-4cb0-9019-5cbcfdef9478

That's so stupid that they have a right to open and check if items are gen. What a waist of time and resources.

If the OP is admitting the first site is cheaper for same watch than I fail to see how a spammer would post it. But, I am surprised at what they try to pull. Lol.