RickFlorida

Could you please elaborate on how you countersunk the crown hole? You say a 1.3mm drill and a 5.3mm counterbore. But what exactly is the little 1.3mm bit doing for the countersinking? Great build by the way! Could you please elaborate on how you countersunk the crown opening? I don't understand how you used a small 1.3 drill bit and a 6.3mm bore. Are they used at the same time or separately? Great job by the way!

Great post. Would like to know how American guys get adderall as I'm interested.

Love this forum! I checked the technical/references section but I didn't see any links to exploded diagrams or measurements for parts of Submariner cases like the 5513. Does anyone know of any diagrams or exact measurements of all the case and bezel parts? My questions about the rehaut were answered but there must be a diagram or list of "tolerances" for all the parts? Thank you, Rick

Thank you so much, guys! I really appreciate it. I want to take my time building this 7928 using a new 5513 Cartel case. I have fabrication skills to a degree so I could even weld or braze in thin sleeves of metal if I had to in order to bring the case closer to spec. But, if I can simply find the right fitting crystal, that will be easier. So if I want a low dome crystal, there are various brands and slightly different sizes, that is good to know. Who makes the most gen. like fitting bezel, retaining ring, and tension ring combo? I heard WSO is not bad, but then I read Clarks is OK except the tension ring is too thin or too thick. What might make it easier than explaining is can someone please share a link or file that has diagrams with exact thickness of all the parts on a 5513? (Like the dimensions of the proper tension ring, and the dimensions of the case, etc.) With 30 years of the 5513, there has to be an "exploded" diagram showing tolerances/sizes. Thank you! Rick

No worries Jorrie. Take your time. I expect you may need more explaining anyways. I don't even have all the materials for photo-etching yet anyways. If you need 2 weeks or even longer before starting, no worries.

Hello everyone. I am going to build a watch using a new Cartel 5513 case. What is the exact size of the rehaut supposed to be if that is what creates the water tight seal against a low dome crystal which I plain on using? I'm going to try to make the watch as water resistant as possible. I will use a new Athaya crown so I will properly seal the threads and also will use good siliconed gaskets . So my only concern for planning the build is getting a tight-ass seal on the crystal. So may I ask what should the dimensions of the rehaut and the crystal should be for a tight original style fit? That way..... let's say the rehaut on a Cartel 5513 is a bit too small.... then maybe I can find a slightly thicker crystal? I don't want to use glue.. Since glue will dissolve in saltwater often and is messy. thanks for any advice.

I forgot to mention JMB nailed the font as well, this goes without speaking. If I were to have someone engrave it, it would be JMB. In fact, even if I finish this experiment up, I may end up having him engrave the whole case for me. I mostly want to see if this works. Just saw this note about scanning. Yes, I'll send you a scan of the case too.

We are finally at the next stage of trying to etch a decent engraving of a Tudor caseback. One thing I have noticed.... is that Raffles NAILED the font perfectly. I'm really impressed. If only the Raffles Tudor caseback was not missing a gasket groove, then hands down his caseback is a great candidate to use if you ever find one. But anyways, Raffles and I'm sure Yuki probably found the Roman style font that is used on originals. I have not idea what exactly kind of Roman font it is but I think it's Roman because of the unique "T" in "Oyster". Is anyone friends with Raffles or others who have created this font engraving before? Anyways, we have the diagram done and now am just trying to create a template. My only concern now is that I realized I can't use my method of choice in using an industrial laminator to adhere the template to the caseback before etching. Because of the unflat shape, I will have to try photo etching. But the results should be even better.

Vac, I want to send you a message but says.. "Vaccum can't receive messages". I have a job if you are interested perhaps.

Yes Gents.... I found my error. The Cartel Caseback does have a nice groove for placing a gasket. My confusion came because I was looking at the back of my Raffles Tudor Sub caseback. It does not have a groove at all in that caseback. Does this mean later Submariner cases don't have it or is it missing in error on the Raffles caseback? So my initial worry is solved. I will sand the flat part of the case perfectly flat to help with sealing and get a better fitted gasket. The one that came with the case is a little too big in diameter and does not stay in position. How do you guys water proof the crystal/bezel seal? The rest I can figure out (crown tube and caseback)

Thank you. I will check it and see because perhaps you are correct that I didn't check enough if there may be a groove on either the caseback or not. I'll take pictures if I'm still not sure. Thank you, Rick

Greetings everyone. It's time I get back in the game after a while. While I'm working on creating the tutorial on how to precisely etch casebacks for creating Tudor sub casebacks, I have another goal I want to accomplish. I have one of the new Cartel 5513's and wanted to please ask about the case gasket. I noticed when I removed the caseback I don't think there was a groove for the gasket. It seems like the gasket is just squeezed between the caseback and the case without any particular "seat". Have people who are serious about waterproofing these cases done mods like creating a seat for the gasket or are there replacement casebacks that have a groove? I'm going to strip my Josh 5513 down and use an Athaya crown so I will properly seal the crown tube opening so I am just concerned with the caseback and later the crystal fitting. Thanks for any advice. If fitment or room allows..... I bet the easiest way to create a groove or seat for the gasket is to take a stainless strip/wire and braze/solder that on the inside of the caseback. I have soldering and welding skills to do this but I was wondering if anyone who has already done something like this has any advice about placement or procedures.

What does "DWO" stand for?

What is PVP and what color or kind of ink to age the dial and hands? Very good work!

Yes my friend. It's extremely useful. In fact, I may be able to just make the vector template myself now. I may use Sketchup LayOut or Illustrator. I will start as soon as I'm done with a current project.

Just an update. Hologramet has sent me one through the mail from Sweden. So I'm just wanting to get the Tudorcase in the mail so I can finish a template for the etching project. Sorry for the delay but I figured it will be more accurate in the end. (providing that donor caseback is fairly accurate in font and size).

Yes sir. If you look at my pictures of the sample etch, I get excellent precision by using special transfer foil and paper. As long as nitric acid does not attack the foil any faster than the etchants ive used before, it should look killer.

Thank you for sharing everyone. Especially JMB since you do this for $ that's kind of you to share info. I just want to do the precision nitric etch so that people who want to give it a go may have an option. Hopefully, the fellow who has an extra will sell me his to create the template. Thanks again for all the discussion Gents! I will update soon.

Thank you. Great source by the way. So T means stem height.

Thanks but now I'm even more confused. On the link you provided, the specs say total height and then there are letters followed by some more dimensions. perhaps the dimension that says 2.3? So I was wrong on both accounts if it's 2.3. Thank you for posting. Anyone know what the specs say on there? It doe snot explain any of the dimensions.

Just look on ebay. There are millions of stems for sale on there for such a popular movement. But I'm not 100% sure they are always the same. But I would assume every part is the same for a 2824-2, no?

Yeah, that rotor finish is rough. So when in doubt, assume asian.

Like the post says... I see people saying the stem height of DG2813 is 2.5mm but there is a large PDF online of all the Chinese watch specs and for DG2813 it says the stem height is 2.15mm Is this just a typo? Thank you, Rick

Hello all. I'm a newbie but am learning a lot in the last few months. I have a very simple question please if anyone can chime in. Do all ETA 2824-2 watch builds use this type of dial spacer ring that I found between my movement and dial? I need to know if not always in case it effects standard stem height as I try to calculate my needed main movement ring. (the big one that goes between the case and movement) I found this small spacer just like it's pictured between an ETA 2824-2 and a marathon dial with the proper feet placement. The 2824-2 has a date wheel but is not used (and will not be used in the new build either). So in other words, does this picture dial spacer effect the stem height? If this is standard then it will help me calculate the difference between a DG2813 stem height of 2.5 and the 2824-2 stem height of 1.8 Thanks, Rick

Update Gents. I finally fixed my computer which had a crapped out motherboard. Now I can draw the initial layout and then send it to Jorrie to finish the vector. Then as I promised, I will show you how to etch with precision... (provided Jorrie and I can create a satisfactory template..... I'm still wondering if we can find the right font or one close to it at least).