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Showing results for tags 'Movement'.
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Hi, greetings to all! We did a dismantling comparison between the gen 4130 movement and the clean 4130 movement. This movement has been in the market for many years, and it is one of the few Daytona chronograph movements that is known for its ultra-high stability. Clean has been using 4130 movement for about a year. Comparing to the previous 4130 movement from Noob, this movement has been polished, accessories have been upgraded. It is called v2 4130 movement for others. We carefully photographed all parts and found that some parts are slightly different in polishing. After all, the price of the movement differs by 50 times. Most of the accessories can be exchanged with gen. So there is no doubt that this is the best replica movement in the world. We also took a video here. I hope you can feel the charm of this top replica 4130 movement more clearly from now on. See you next time~ Regards, CTime
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Hi, I'm new in here and into the reps. What do you think of this graph?
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Hello RWG, I'm a sporadic lurker, infrequent poster, multiple-time buyer on RWG. I'm hoping for the community's input on a question. I've become enamored of the new Cartier Drive and am going to pick up a rep. The only TDs who have them, I think, are trustytime and Angus at puretime. Trustytime's movement is listed as Asian 21J Automatic Movement and is offered at $138. Link to his page is http://www.trustytime01.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_448&products_id=15217. Angus's movement is listed as Asian 23J Automatic Movement and is offered at $218. Link to his page is http://puretime01.com/drive-de-cartier-ss-white-textured-dial-on-black-leather-strap-a23j.html. All the other specs look the same to me, although more astute members may tell me differently after looking at the pages. I have heard it said that many of the Asian 21J movements are in fact the exact same as the 23J movements. I don't know how true that is? Please tell me: is there any reason I should think about paying $80 more with Angus? Thanks in advance!
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I'm thinking about rolex daytona recently. What is your opinion on A7750 with working chronos? I know it's 2,5mm thicker than a gen. My PAM is 14mm and it's already massive not to mention smaller rollie. To be honest new 13mm daytona made of 904 looks really amazing! I know it has frozen chronos due to 4130 but it's quite slim. What's your opinion on this one? I'd like to hear from someone with 7750 daytona Thanks!
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Hello, Does it exist replica movement for Day-Date accepting Gen Dials /no leg cutting/ and Gen Hands? As I know such movements exists for Submariners, but haven't heard for DayDate. Thanks
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Hi All, I'm hoping that someone will be kind enough to share some insight with me. I've recently stumbled into the process of trying to build a franken Heuer Camaro, 3 register chronograph. I already have gen: dial, case, pushers, crown, and xtal. I've run into a bit of a wall on the movement, though. (Some of you are probably smiling and nodding.) The original 3 register Camaro was offered with an option of the Valjoux 72 or Valjoux 7736. From my internet searches, these seem to be extremely pricey ($1000+). Are there any comparable ETA's that will also do the job as an engine for the Camaro? I'm indifferent as to whether it is manual wind or automatic. And, I need it to be rock solid as far as the mechanical functioning. This is the closest ETA that I've found, but I am not qualified to determine if I can actually make it work: ETA 2892-A2. Thanks for any and all help!
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I just received my IWC Portofino Chrono. Pictures are here. I am concerned about a couple things, and wondering if I am over reacting. 1. this is supposed to be AR coated... I may not understand the meaning but the crystal doesn't seem super clear. 2. this watch feels really hollow and the movement seems to shake and spin a great deal...Is this normal? Feels kinda hollow but, maybe thats because I'm used to wearing a submariner? When I tap on it, I can hear the watch shake inside. . . Is this all normal? What do you all think?
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So i finally had the B...s to open the backcase of my DSSD blue (xx Version, still have to find out wich one is), so for my surprise after a lot of reading about movement i came across to the one (i hope only one) that I haven't seen as a newby that i am. i would kindly appreciate if someone can help me identify it... Bellow some pics, i hope they are clear enough. Thank you in advance.
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Hello, I'm quite new here so I apologize if this has been answered before. I have a replica bond edition planet ocean. Since receiving it, the movement crapped out on me and I've since disassembled the entire watch. I believe the current movement is the DG2813 (or atleast a really crappy clone) and ideally would like to replace it with a better movement. I've heard mixed reviews about the DG4813 and I enjoy that it beats at 28k/min, but like the 2813, it is just cheap and unreliable. Are there any movements that would fit the dial (feet, hands, etc)? Are there any modifications that you all would recommend for longevity? I would be willing to post pics of the parts I have now but I would enjoy any knowledge/wisdom that you could impart on a newcomer. Thank you all for your time and generous attention to this post. Sincerest Thanks
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Hey guys, I got this from a m2m sale on a different forum and need help with what type of movement is in this little guy. The previous own only knew that it was "Noob best edition 2014" and the original price was $378. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm terrible when it comes to identifying movements.
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HI guys, i have an old Breitlin Bentlex from 2003. No i can get gen dial. I have opened the buttom. Can anybody identify this movement please? THX Mecko
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Good day. I just recently got a rep Tank Anglaise with A2688 movement and compared to the A7750 movement, it is just confusing me a lot. Perhaps someone can help me with some of my inquiries: 1) how to wind it by hand? on most of the watches I own, they are wound clock-wise. but for the A2688, it feels quite off when winding it that way. it sounds like it is winding properly if I do it counter-clockwise 2) on setting up the date - when the crown is pulled on the next position, winding it counter-clockwise moves the date forward. moving it clockwise just shake the date. Am I correct in assuming that the date only moves in one direction? In other watches with day and date, one direction normally moves the day while the other direction moves the date. Thanks in advance.
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Hello, I just got my first rep (H-Factory PAM177), and I absolutely love it! I love listening to it tick, and it's very comfortable to wear as well. I want to wear it to sleep for these reasons, and also because I don't really have any convenient place to leave my watch overnight, because my nightside table has a radio on it, and my desk has a computer and a printer, and I don't want my watch to get magnetized. So is it dangerous to wear it to sleep? Thanks
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I was wondering if we could start and build a list of reps with movements that are properly marked or engraved per the gen movement. I am amazed at how much I have begun to appreciate even the most subtle differences in my rep watches. I do not know of many, but I believe the IWC Mark XVII has the correctly marked movements. Please share your knowledge with this and many other noobies! Thanks! -
Hello my beloved APers, got my first AP and with it, the infamous problem with the sec@12 movement So now I'm calling out to you guys to please enlighten me with a detailed description of what the Jewel Mod actually is. I have no intimate knowledge of watch movements, but I do see an advantage here, and I have very good reasons to ask such an extensive question, so please bear with me: My watch is at my local watchmaker, getting serviced soon. Since he is replica-friendly and is an AD for many swiss watchmaking brands like Breitling, Longines, Cartier, he (and his team of 5 watchmakers, i think) seems to be quite the professional. Now the advantage that I see in this situation: "Why not try and ask him whether he can pull off a jewel mod?" I figured it neither would hurt nor would it cost anything to ask, plus it would be a great advantage to all of those that are thinking of doing the jewel mod or those still to encounter the sec@12 problem, to know that there is yet another watchmaker capable to do it. Now to the problem: I have only a very vague and faint idea of what the problems with the sec@12 movement is, the most frequently used word being "!!!!!!!FRICTION!!!!!" to describe it. And something with "gears". -Yes, I'll glady take the smirks and grunts those of your reading this, because I myself am amused about how little I know about the watch i spent 500$+ for. For me to be able to ask him, therefore, I would like to ask you if you guys could explain to me what, exactly, the problem is, and what, exactly, the jewel mod is and does. For those of you patient enough to answer this question, I am very thankful And for those that are tired of seeing this topic AGAIN, I am very sorry! -
Hi all! I just received a IWC Big Pilot 5019 Miramar from Joshua and I love this watch. It looks great! However, the automatic winding rotor makes a clicking, grinding noise with every movement. It sounds like a manual wind (amplified by the big case), except it happens every time I move my arm! I have plenty of other automatics and am used to the whir of a winding rotor, but have never heard this gear clicking before. And I've tried searching the forums and online for a solution but it most of the noise complaints are of the whirring or rattling kind. It's a little hard to describe, so I've attached a couple of videos to show what I'm talking about. As you will be able to hear, it is so loud even when moved gently, that the watch is basically unwearable right now. Any advice anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated... Thanks in advance! PS I asked Joshua about this, and sent him a video: he said it was normal noise and just louder because of the big case... but none of my other Autos have ever done it, so there must be a way to at least improve it! IMG_4507.MOV.mov IMG_4516.MOV.mov -
Hello friends I will be (in the next few days) ordering my 3rd rep, my choice is a Rolex Explorer ii 42mm in white my dealer is Josh (he is the only dealer I have ever used) The problem I have is what movement should I go for?? Dose the more expensive movement mean better movement ?? Please break it down for me, to help me choose.. Just for the first timers out there thinking of placing your first order, I will update this thread with the whole process of my Oder though to receiving my watch with pics!
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How Hard is upgrading Movement in a Explorer II 40mm Rep?
JJPanerai posted a topic in The Rolex Area
Hey Guys- I recently picked up a nice cheapie 40mm rolex explorer. What I am wondering is how hard it would be to upgrade this from a 21J Asian movement to an ETA highbeat so that the hand sweeps a little smoother. I am looking to try to mod this also with a gen crown and crystal but am unsure if it will take these mods. I am very new to modding and this would be my first project so any advice even as stupid as it may sound is appreciated. Also, does anyone have experience trying to get the correct hand stack on a watch like this? I have heard that the Asian and ETA are simple movements which can cause the correct hand stack mod to be unreliable and break within a couple months. Is this a myth or do I truely need a gen movement for something like this? Thanks in advance as I really hope to learn a bit more about this watch and modding in general! -
Hello, I have a B&R with a DG2813 movement which was purchased about 4 years ago from Trusty Time. The movement has been less than reliable recently and just stopped working last week. I'm looking to have the movement replaced with something more reliable. Is there someone in the forums who is able to do this work? I've attached two images of the movement. Thank you in advance for any help provided. Kevin Mogee
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...taken with Samsung Note 3
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Hi all, To start off, im not quite sure if this post belongs in this subforum...please bear with me, I know this topic has been chewed through quite thoroughly, but it always feels better and is more of a relief when one's own question is answered directly. I have a A7750 chrono (standard; secs @ 9) for around 2 months now, don't wear it all day/everyday. Whilst on a day i dont wear it, and the time is still running, i tend to hand wind it 10-20 rounds at night, just to keep it going and not have to worry about when i can set the date/time if it stops, you know, the whole 9 yards. When i Notice that it has stopped, i hand-wind it approx. 50 rounds (never feel any resistance). I wouldnt say that i wind it aggressively, but not quite slow either. On days i wear the watch, which is 2-3 times a week, i do not wind, since i rely on the rotor to do its job. Now i have read a few articles/posts, saying that fast and aggrssive winding can cause "teeth" of a certain wheel inside the movement to grind down, or even break off. Source: http://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?showtopic=1613 So, what do the movement experts say? 2 months of the aforementioned use- have I already damaged the movement? If so, how do i notice it, without having to open the caseback (since i dont have the necessary tools for that )? And what is the runtime of a fully wound 7750? Feel free to call me paranoid- at least then i know that all is well Much appreciation for any comments/help/ideas!
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Hey Guys- I am looking at two Rolex 16610 models on perfect clones and wondering what I can expect for the difference in these two movements. The first is a Sub Asian 2824 / 3135 and the specs are as follows... - nickle plated asian clone 2824 modified to rolex calibre 3135 markings and bridges The second is a Sub Asian 2813 28800 and the specs are as follows... - ew breed asian 2813, 28800 high beat, ew breed with 25J, rolex style perforated rotor As a novice I honestly have no clue how big or important the difference is between these movements. I understand that it will make the watch more accurate with a smoother movement but to what degree? Will it be noticable to others that my watch is a rep if I go with the cheaper of the two movements or does it not make that large of a difference? Any thoughts or info on this whole area would be greatly appreciated!
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Starting a new 5500 project and I have acquired a gen 5500 case and gen 78350 Bracelet with 557 ends (In MINT condition). So far have about $1100 sunk into this project. Would you guys go ahead and get the gen movement for $1000-1500 or stick with the ETA?
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Hi all, I just got the package with the IW3799 in the mail today- excited, of course, as all of you have already experienced Upon opening and inspecting, all "cosmetic" aspects were more (better) than expected. However, the chronograph seems to have a problem. It starts/stops wonderfully, however, when trying to reset- it won't budge (that is, the chronograph seconds hand). Only after trying multiple times, of course not forcefully, but with different amounts of pressure, does the second hand indeed reset. It also sometimes jumps backwards a few "seconds" on the dial when resetting, as if it were stuck and/or the pusher does not quite contact to the appropriate parts. I am not one of the experts in respect to rep. (asian) movements, and so, I really need the help of those of you out there that are. Has anyone seen this "phenomenon"? Is it simply a case of poor movement oiling, or is this a real hardware problem? The chrono is resetted at the moment, will it prove fatal if I use it again? On another note, if this is something that can be only solved with a completely new movement, is there a possibility that I use the A7750 Valjoux movement on a rep. PAM Chrono and simply switch movements? (seeing as there is no "hours" chromo sundial on the Pam- I hope I assume correctly that the function is just not displayed on the dial). Thanks a lot for your help!
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Hello gents, About six months back I purchased a perfect clones GMT Master II clone. I'm thrilled with the overall appearance of the watch. The crystal is solid, the bezel clicks nicely, and the dial is convincing. The movement on the other hand: The rotor came loose about a month after purchase, which I had repaired at a local watch shop. I was informed that the "swiss" ETA movement I paid for was in fact a chinese copy. The power reserve sucks. If I don't wind it every other day or so, it stops. It doesn't keep good time (tends to gain 1-2 minutes a day). Most annoyingly, the date wheel is not aligining in the window most days out of the month. It seems to get worse every time I adjust the date. My question is: Is there anyone out there that could replace or repair the movement in this watch to make it preform the way I would like? I'd prefer someone stateside so as not to have to screw with customs again. I'd gladly pay for good service and workmanship. Thanks.
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