kbh

That will get more members fer sure!

The movement is also incredible. Inside is the Excesior Park 40, a column wheel movement with beautiful Côtes de Genève finishing. Excelsior Park movements also found their way into Zenith chronographs from the period. There were even some watches branded Excelsior Park that seem to have been Gallet watches made for the European market, such as this one. http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/ask-us-anything-what-are-great-vintage-chronographs-for-under-a-grand

Went back to an old post about this and found this: That's the answer from bk: "Use 2.5mm. That's best because Clark is at 2+mm, gen is 1.8mm. Gen uses 2.7mm. With Clark, you should offset the Clark's extra thickness by going for 2.5mm. Else your crystal height above the gen insert is way too much" Apparently you're right about the gen using 2.7 and the difference was that the Clark crystal is thicker and he uses the 2.5mm because of the difference. I still think that the 2.7mm might be the #3 though, 29-295-C3 According to WholesaleOutlet the C2 gasket is 2.5mm http://www.ebay.com/itm/GASKET-SAPPHIRE-CRYSTAL-ROLEX-25-295C-295C2-HEIGHT-2-5-/170821537343?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c5c1ce3f I guess I had that backwards............

I think the gen Sub uses a 2.5mm but BK has been using a 2.7 for his, starting with the WM9 ones. Maybe that's whats confusing. I remember him mentioning that he used a different than what originally came with the Clark crystals that he was using and had his made with a 2.7mm instead. Of course, like most everything else that I post, I could be wrong.

Also, the "C" is for cyclops, not gasket size. 1,2,3,4 are gasket sizes. http://www.ofrei.com/page_153.html

2.3, 2.5, 2.7, 3.0

It's a beauty. That smooth bezel is really growing on me. They do feel awful light when wearing them, don't they. I mostly switch back and forth between DJ's, Sea Dweller and Planet Ocean and the DJ almost feel like it's not there.

When the Summer's over, I'll be happy to take it off your hands, even with a reasonable markup........

I agree 100%. I've built 3 DJ frankens and have taken the gen crystals off and put them in my drawer. Once mixed together the old gen and old aftermarket are indistinguishable. And they're so cheap, I'll replace them rather than polish them if I get a scratch on one of them. Sapphire crystals maybe worthwhile but not the plexi.

I swapped an IWC rep and an GP movement just for fun. Not having the 12 in the right place seemed pretty silly though.

It's not economically sensible to service 21j movements. Plus, I've found when you buy a new Asian movement from a reputable dealer like Cousins or O'frei, the quality has always been much better than what comes in the average rep.

It would be easier to tell your fortune reading your palm......

Nope, not Speedy G. The other "G" is in Texas. My Daytona started in Chicago and went back twice before it was properly repaired in Texas.

I consider mine gen with some aftermarket parts.

It was "G" (14060 or 10660), a watchmaker on RG and RWI, but he's Conus so probably won't be much help for you. And yes, it was a 7750 working chrono. He's done that and my 288k and both are flawless. Here's one of the series of pictures:

I just had my DW Daytona totally stripped, ultrasonic cleaned, lubed re-assembled and timed for $185, with about 20 pictures of the whole process.

Most all the commercial pilots I've ever known are too cheap to buy an expensive watch. That's why they always wear quartz. I do know one that wears a Submariner but I have no idea if it's a rep or not. I've always assumed gen but he's owned since he was my flight instructor many years ago. And pilots no longer need pilot watches. Just like divers no longer need dive watches.

Gorilla Glue sux, It definitely sticks things together but it expands about 200%. I've used it on woodworking projects and hate it. You have to come back every 15 minutes and wipe away the excess that oozes out of the joint.

Go to eBay and search for either UV watch crystal glue or GS Hypo glass and crystal glue

Get a life!

I agree with MD. Almost certainly it's the same as the Asian 7750 module. I've never heard of any other module being offered. I'd say it's the luck of the draw and the amount of actual use this watch has gotten. These movements stop running when the movement no longer has enough extra power to overcome the friction from the module. And seeing the ETA movement would be a clean, fresh movement with a much higher amplitude and lower beat error than the average Asian, it makes sense that assuming it was originally put together well, it could in theory run for a lot longer than the average Daytona sec @ 6. We really have no idea how much actual use that particular watch has had. It may have spent a good portion of it's life in a watch box. At that age, though, it's ready for a complete service and could easily last another 5 years.

Toro's quite well known on the several of the other forums. I'm sure he'll solve your problem, although I don't know why you'd post it here and not on the forum that he's a TD on.

By the way, that one you're looking at is a 21j model, which means it has a cheap Asian movement and isn't really a chronometer at all. The large second hand is always going and the pushers just advance the other two sub dials. It's not anything like a gen Daytona and not really a what you would probably be happy with.

Somebody needs to fix this forum. It's obviously broken with all these double posts and all the other problems going on today. Have the time it wont post at all then it double posts.

"Selling only CONUS" "Will you ship to UK" "Yawn. Fuken Noob! Can't he read?" " MF, Rude fuken Yankee [censored]" "Huh? WTF?"