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Everything posted by automatico

  1. Donerix, Nanuq, Dan 71... We have all changed. Everyone does over time. Some by choice. Some by chance. Some by circumstance. (not to be confused with circumcision) I 'seriously' started trading watches in the early 1970s and stayed revved up for years. Not now though. 'Seriously' = buying/trading for something of value rather than mostly junk. Q...What changed? A...Mechanical watches were all there was when I was a kid other than Accutrons and 'run for a day' Hamilton Electrics. I tried to wear a rolex (1603 DJ) but it felt like I was married to it trying to keep it running so I went back to my 214 Accutron. I accumulated/bought/sold a lot of mech watches because they were what traders/buyers wanted but I never cared too much for them. Too many hassles...cleaning/oiling, break when dropped/slammed, many were not too hot at keeping time, being married to them etc. Since they were always giving trouble, I had to pay someone to fix them or learn how to work on them. So I learned how to work on them...more or less. I have a few hundred mechanical watches left from my trading days but many will no longer run because of being stored for so long (25 years or more). Some are worth a few bucks, most of then not worth much. I sold all the good ones too soon looking back but who has a crystal ball? Fast Forward to today: I see today's new mechanical watches for what they are...basically a money con. Watches that cost $1000 or less to make selling for $10k+ and no parts available except to get high $$ 'factory service' and it is sometimes a botch job. Q...Why do I see it that way? A1...Because that's the way it is. Imho. A2...Because a quality $200 quartz watch will keep good time, last many years, and give very little trouble. I can not stand the whack, whack, whack jumping second hand on quartz watches so I mostly wear an Accutron II. Q...What about vintage watch prices getting so high? A...Probably a nostalgic bubble. Only time will tell. Q...What will I do with the Bulova, Benrus, Omega, Longines, Marathon, Fortis, Zodiac, Rolex etc watches? A1...Sell them if I can. A2...Let someone else worry with them if I can't. Q...What about the Disney and cheapo fashion watches? A1...Yard Sale! Flea Market! Give them away! A2...Dumpster. We threw thousands away in the 9+ years we had a store and I already have six 18 inch x 16 inch x 14 inch plastic boxes full of watches in the garage for Mr. Dumpster sooner or later. Q...What are they? A...Some are new/nos with pricey non running or obsolete movements. Others have Hattori (Seiko) PC 21 or Miyota (Citizen) 2025/2035 movements in GRO and I use them for repairs. Q...What about the replicas? A1...Sell them? A chancy endeavor. A2...Remove the swisseta movements from the better ones. Whack all the cases/bracelets with a hammer, feed them to Mr. D. Q...Why? A...It's the easy way out. Q...Any keepers? A...ETA F520117 noobmariners. For the Classic Replica Museum in Hong Kong. Ha! Cornerstone: "To be clear, when Nanuq says this he's suggesting someone gifts me a watch." I have little doubt there is one on the way. You might wait by the mailbox but take plenty to eat. Chicken sandwiches maybe.
  2. Newer tooters... alligoat: "I don't know how new you're referring to." I look at toots the same way I look at rolex...acrylic crystal models are 'vintage' and sapphire models are 'modern'. More or less. Exceptions are A260 etc models and I consider then ' vintage junque' because of autowind trouble and no parts. Old hand winders are Ok because they do not give much trouble. Genuines... The last new/nos tootsub I had was a 94010 nos in June 1998 that I bought for $425USD from a watch trader. Had another used acrylic no date model later but gave it away. Free! Looking back that was a dumb move. Nothing much since then but a new tutone quartz DJ type, new tutone auto, and a vintage 9 karat gold Dennison cased manual wind model, all long gone. A trader had a nice used blue snowflake for $300 back then but I passed on it...another bad move but they came around now and then and were not very hot at the time. There were a lot of relatively cheap nos toots floating around in the 1990s. Only toot stuff left are a few 'toot kits' that have a case, dial, and signed clasp. I bought them to get the lug hole cases and they have glass crystals but a #12 acrylic will work. I was going to stick a couple 34mm explorer projects together but never did. Cobbled up a first quarter 1964 1003 'explorer' with a 1560 and Yuki dial instead. 79090... "This is the JKF model and it's really a pretty good deal for the price." I have a JKF '5513' and it is pretty good too except the lug holes appear to be a hair too high in the lugs. In reality the holes are not that high but the bevel on the lug tops make them look like it. It has a brass movement spacer with case clamps/screws and oem spec case neck/case tube threads. The case back is not oem spec iirc. They would probably be a good base for a lower buck project if they are still available.
  3. hologramet: "...that isn’t 100% correct.. They have KIF shocks, and are Top grade regarding the rest; Glucydur spring etc..Don’t remember if they are/used to be chrono certified. Also.. what’s the point of it being engine turned if the bridge isn’t engraved." You missed two key words. "The main difference looking at a regular ETA 2824-2 and a tudor 2824-2 is the tudor movement is engine turned for decoration." My guess is many regular watch guys can not tell a KIF Parechoc from an Incabloc. Balance wheels are sometimes made out of Glucydur, not hairsprings. Vintage ETA 2824-2 tooters did not use certified movements afaik. If they did they would brag about it. ETA grades: Standard – adjusted in two positions; accuracy of +/-12 sec/day up to +/- 30 sec/day. Elabore – adjusted in three positions; accuracy of +/-7 sec/day up to +/- 20 sec/day. Top – adjusted in five positions; accuracy of +/-4 sec/day up to +/- 15 sec/day. Chronometer – COSC specs. Standard and Elabore Grades: Nickel plated balance wheel; Nivarox hairspring; polyrubies used for pallet jewels. Polyrubies? Top and Chronometer Grades: Glucydur balance wheel; Anachron hairspring; red rubies used for pallet jewels. One way to distinguish between Standard/Elabore and Top/COSC grades of ETA movements is to look at the anti-shock device on the balance wheel: Standard Novodiac / ETACHOC Elabore Novodiac / ETACHOC Top Incabloc Chronometer Incabloc Sogeha: "...I see little point in such attention to visual details of a movement as signed rotor and engine turning of the same pattern on a rep of a watch with a closed back." Me neither, I was just trying to put something up because the forum is so slow. Truth is I never cared much for tooters. Especially newer tooters. Newer tooters = Neutered tooters imho. Ha!
  4. Claim: Late Rolex CEO’s girlfriend stole expensive artwork... By Julia Marsh October 7, 2013 6:23pm The daughter of the late CEO of Rolex is battling her father’s girlfriend in court, claiming she swiped at least five pieces of pricey artwork from his Fifth Avenue apartment just three days after he died last March. Swiss resident Alice Heiniger, daughter of watchmaker Patrick Heiniger and executor of his estate, says his gal pal Nina Stevens removed an oil on canvas by Pablo Picasso, two drawings by Keith Haring*, a Marilyn Monroe series by Andy Warhol and an untitled work by Jean-Michel Basquiat. The Warhol, from the pop artist’s “Reversal Series” of Monroe, and the Picasso, “Buste d’homme,” alone are worth an estimated $14.8 million. Heiniger contacted an art shipment company called Winchester Fine Art Services about the missing works, only to be told that “Mrs. Stevens had instructed Winchester not to share any information about the artwork with anyone,” according to the Manhattan Surrogate’s Court filing. The disgruntled daughter believes that a second art transport outfit called Elite, also based in Brooklyn, picked up the pieces from Winchester on April 22 “for shipment elsewhere, probably Europe,” she says in the suit. Elite never responded to Heiniger’s queries. Heiniger admits in court papers that there are also issues regarding the artwork’s ownership, but questions to the Tony Shafrazi Gallery on W. 26th Street about their provenance were also never answered. The daughter says her late father and his girlfriend were clients of Shafrazi for over 15 years. The Rolex king’s entire art collection, housed in his 40th floor co-op at the Olympic Tower, is worth $11 million, according to court documents. Heiniger wants the court to force the gallery and the two shipment companies to hand over information so she can track down the missing artwork. She’s also suing Stevens in Europe to learn to turn over other assets that belong to her father “and to disclose information concerning [his] assets worldwide.” In another twist, Heiniger says she learned from an appraiser that some of the artwork in her dad’s Manhattan apartment may be forgeries. Patrick Heiniger died in Monaco on March 3 at age 62 of an undisclosed illness. He’d been at the helm of the timepiece company from 1992 through 2008. Nina Stevens’ attorney, Richard Golub, denied the allegations and promised the claims would be “hotly contested” in court. Claim: Late Rolex CEO’s girlfriend stole expensive artwork (nypost.com) *Keith Haring Swatch Watches are being priced for over $15K today. There is used 'signed' model from 1985 on eBay 8-23-21 for $17.5K USD. eBay item number: 184535161071 Here is a 'non signed' model for $700: eBay item number: 174156173497 They look alike to me. T or F? By CHRIS PLEASANCE FOR MAILONLINE PUBLISHED: 05:06 EDT, 11 May 2015 | UPDATED: 22:35 EDT, 11 May 2015 50 Cent's crew 'pistol-whipped jeweler and stole Rolex and chain worth $250,000 during Mayweather Pacquaio fight weekend' Robert Marin, owner of LAX Jewelry, says he went to sell items to 50 Cent. Claims he partied with rapper before being invited to Mayweather's gym. Mr. Marin says he was pistol-whipped in the gym before jewels were taken. 50 Cent - real name Curtis Jackson - 'adamantly' denies all the allegations. Rapper 50 Cent and his entourage have been accused of stealing a Rolex and neck chain worth $250,000 from a jeweler during the Mayweather v Pacquiao fight weekend in Vegas. Robert Marin, owner of LAX Jewelry which specializes in diamond-studded bling worn by rappers, says he was in Vegas in order to sell the watch and chain to 50 Cent - real name Curtis Jackson. Mr Marin says he partied with Jackson before being invited to look at Floyd Mayweather's gym, where he says he was pistol-whipped by two of Jackson's security and the items were taken. 50 Cent's crew 'pistol-whipped jeweler and stole Rolex and chain' | Daily Mail Online T for sure... PUBLISHED: 16:24 EDT, 12 March 2020 | UPDATED: 16:59 EDT, 12 March 2020 Two 'Rolex robbers' are jailed for a total of 17 years for series of attacks in which they stole £76,000 worth expensive watches and jewelry at knifepoint... Darren Buchanan and Cameo Joseph robbed Rolex watch owners across London. They threatened four people with knives to steal their watches and jewelry. The Metropolitan Police established a task force to track down the armed gang. Buchanan was jailed for nine years while Joseph received eight years in prison. These are the shocking scenes as a pair of armed robbers, who were today jailed for 17 years, attacked a victim for their valuable Rolex watches. Darren Buchanan, 27, and Cameo Joseph, 26, both from Brent, north London were responsible for a string of knifepoint robberies in the capital. Footage released by the Metropolitan Police showed the pair violently attacking one victim. The gang were operating across London for almost nine months and were responsible for at least four attacks, where they stole watches and jewellery worth £76,270. Buchanan and Joseph were tracked down by the Central West Crime Squad who were tasked with targeting the gang. In one robbery, Hisham Saeed had been dining with his partner at Novikov in Mayfair when Cameo Joseph, 26, and Darren Buchanan, 27, tore the timepiece from his wrist last August. They followed his taxi in Buchanan's Audi A5 Coupe as it travelled to his home in St John's Wood, before parking up and rushing towards him as he opened the door to leave. Mr. Saeed was yanked from the seat and dragged aside where the robbers threatened him with a knife when he struggled and kicked to break free. The pair was also involved in a second watch robbery three days earlier, on 5 August, Southwark Crown Court heard. Buchanan also took part in three further robberies, dating back to December 2018. For the rest of the story... https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-8106323/Two-Rolex-robbers-jailed-total-17-years.html
  5. AP773: "...I saw new Swiss eta 2824-2’s going for $200-300, in the breakdown I’m citing a genuine Tudor branded movement, which I’m not entirely sold on since they’ll all serve the same purpose and perform just as well I assume." After you find a suitable movement, maybe put a tudor signed rotor on the movement. That will get you a step closer for not much $$. rafflesdials has the rotors for $25 USD. Sogeha: "Try Arsla5 on eBay for ETA movements, he is very genuine." Good advice! Here is another seller with new genuine ETA 2824-2 watch movements, 25 Jewels Swiss Made on eBay for $160 plus $22 for delivery with 100% feedback: eBay item number: 402979545461 The main difference looking at a regular ETA 2824-2 and a tudor 2824-2 is the tudor movement is engine turned for decoration. One etaclone brand that made a lot of engine turned 2824 clone movements is Seagull and they are Ok (for a while anyway) if they are properly cleaned and oiled. Finding one with ETA markings should not be too hard, then all you need is the tudor signed rotor. STP and Sellita offer engine turned 2824 clones, they are swiss made and higher quality than china etaclones but will have no ETA markings. ETA 2824-2 Clones Watch Movement | Caliber Corner
  6. I have a friend who has been in the precision decal printing business 40+ years and he is also well versed in pad printing. A few years ago I was wanting to print some dials and talked to him about it. He said first off that it was not easy at all to get precision letters and markers printed almost perfectly on a surface as small as a dial without a high $$ precision pad printer and a lot of practice. Next, he said a high quality pad printer was needed to produce high quality dials, not a cheap eBay etc model. When I asked how much $$ it would take to get started, he said three to five thousand dollars USD for a precision manual printer, plus ink, a few printing plates/cliches etc. Cheapo equipment = cheapo results. Another difficulty is hand applying the lume on printed markers. You need a steady hand. That is as far as I got other than making a few dial blanks out of .4mm thick .925 silver and a few out of brass. Here is how I made the blanks: First, I marked the metal with a scratch awl using a spare brass dial a little bit bigger than needed and rough sawed it out with a jeweler saw. Next, I drilled the center hole (marked from the center hole in the dial used for the pattern). Then I mounted the plate in a padded arbor (to prevent scratches if it slipped) and cut it to size on a lathe. Last, I engine turned the back side just for looks but never got around to having the dial feet soldered on. Now a friend has a laser welder so I may try it just to see how it goes. The decal guy started out hand cutting brand name and number decals for race boats/ski boats and race cars plus painting gold leaf gilded signs on office windows, door glass etc...in 22K yellow gold. It is all done in reverse on the back side of the glass. The gold leaf is stuck to the glass using melted gelatin medicine capsules to hold it in place. The gold leaf is handled with a very soft brush charged with static electricity, you can not touch it...the gold leaf is about 0.1µm (.0001mm) thick. One puff of wind and it is gone. I still have a 'Bon Ami' window cleaning bar out in the garage from back then. The windows had to be spotless. It was 39 cents back then, now it is $20 to $30 a bar. Crazy. "Hasn't scratched yet." was their motto. He also painted some cars that were featured in Car Craft and various Hot Rod magazines in the 1970s/80s along with designing a few trademarks in the drag racing industry. Almost all of the decal cutting is done on a computer controlled plotter today. Now he mostly makes headlight decals for round track cars/drag cars, and fake license tags, small signs etc for movies. You see a movie made in a small town named 'Desire, Alabama' (for example) and chances are it was made in Canada or somewhere and all the cars on the set have fake license tags matching the state where the movie is supposed to take place. Gold Leaf Techniques On Glass & How To Start — Ray Mawst Lettering & Design
  7. Jetmid! I heard he won a gig at the White House. I always zeroed in on submariners and used to see a lot of repsubs but do not see very many that I can tell for sure now. The poseurs have moved up a notch, myself included. The easy to spot mechanical models were made back 15 or 20 years ago and some had silver letters on the dial instead of white with dead end screw holes in the removable links. I have one 'nos' hanging up beside my TZ WIS badge, silver letters and all, still in the 'original packaging'...clear plastic wrap with blue tape over the hoods. Before that I saw a lot of the old 'pot metal specials'...DJ, Prez, submariners etc with quartz movements. Those things would give you the itch...the corrosion itch. Probably made out of melted down Buick/Oldsmobile/Pontiac hood ornaments, Carter WCFB four barrel carburetors etc. Long live the Tin Indian aka Pon-Ton! WCFB = Laughingly called the Washout Carter Four Barrel because they 'washed out' in corners. Now it's mostly Smart watches and phones.
  8. Welcome and good luck! Newbie questions like 'Who has the best Sub/GMT/Explorer/DJ?' generally get ignored because the answer is contained in posts/threads on the various replica forums. That, and the fact that 'Newer!' 'Better!' models are always being introduced so 'The 'Best!' a few months ago may not still be 'The Best!' today. Something else...the recent rash of raids in china has slowed everything down and some of 'The Best!' models are not available at this time. My advice is to go to all three main replica forums and read up on what you want, starting with this one and always buy from an approved 'TD' (Trusted Dealer). One detailed example of 'Who has the best sub?' on another forum: Part 1 WHO HAS THE BEST SUB: Review of ZZF New Sub 116610 LN and Comparison vs. Gen, ARF, Noob and Nail (PART I) - Rolex - RWG: Replica Watch Guide Forum Part 2 WHO HAS THE BEST SUB: Review of ZZF New Sub 116610 LN and Comparison vs. Gen, ARF, Noob and Nail (PART II) - Rolex - RWG: Replica Watch Guide Forum General info: Rolex /Tudor Replicas - Replica Watch Info (replica-watch.info) Videos: SCARY Replica Rolex GMT Master-II Vs Genuine Rolex (116710) - YouTube Here’s Why This Fake Rolex Is So Accurate | Watchfinder & Co. - YouTube I read that videos about replicas are being removed so there may not be as many videos available as before.
  9. After my fiasco with the 'shortcut 1655' I wondered if it was really worth it. Turns out it probably was. Q...How did I come to that conclusion? A...You can see for yourself below: I figured it cost me between $2500 and $3000 for the SC 1655 so I went to eBay and looked up a few 1655 watches that sold May through July 2021. Here are the figures: May, June, July, 2021, Rolex 1655 sold: $29101.00 + $11.10 shp 124 bids $36999.00 + $200 shp Best Offer Accepted ($28,000 my guess) $20,957.00 57 bids Free shipping $24,950.00 or Best Offer Accepted Free shipping ($22,000 my guess) $19,975.00 2 bids + $8.25 shipping $15,000.00 2 bids + $17.82 shipping I had to make guesses on the best offer accepted on the two priced at $36,000 and $24,950. All the watches added together = $135,033USD Shipping on them all added together = $237.17 rounded off to $240 for an average of $40 each. Add the shipping to the watches and it comes out to $135,270USD rounded off. I added the shipping to equal it out because free shipping on two and $200 on one was such a wide margin. I am guessing the $200 shipping was lowered on the BIN for $36K watch but there is no way to know. This is an average of $22,500USD each rounded off...but they are all supposedly genuine. Mine is not except for most of the movement parts. So...the next step is to see how much it would cost to stick a 'mostly genuine' 1655 together using eBay, watch show, internet etc parts. Some eBay 1655/GMT parts from the same time period: Ratty trit dial $1527.00 + $50 shpping 20 bids. Good trit dial $2,004.19 Buy It Now + $16.59 shipping. Movement for 1655/1675 ask $4500 + $80 shp from Japan OBO. Best offer accepted, maybe $4000 or so? Full set of hands: $1,380.82 Or Best Offer + $20.73 shp. NOS $1450 bin free shp. The parts prices above are examples from eBay and I would guess you might find a complete 1575 GMT movement for around $3500 if you searched one out. If you bought a 1575 date movement for $2500 and added the needed GMT parts it might cost more than $3500 because the parts are so hard to find. My guess on parts prices to stick one together using a Vn case and genuine parts (except for the bracelet): Case...$700, my guess, someone chime in if they know. High grade replica oyster bracelet, hoods, and spring bars...$275. Movement...$3500. Genuine dial...$2000. Genuine hands...$1200. Genuine case tube and crown...$125. No labor added. Total = $7800. Why not a genuine bracelet? Since the case is a replica, a replica bracelet just makes more sense (to me anyway). Total = around $7800. Not bad compared to $22,500 average for a genuine model from eBay...while remembering that 'High Line' internet/watch show dealers will charge a lot more if they can get it. The ONLY differences between the replica and a genuine example are the case and bracelet. No doubt the exact same 'project watches' are selling as ' guaranteed 100% genuine' for $25K+ with a genuine bracelet and 'expert ageing' being the only major differences. So...The Conclusion I came to in my little pointy head is: 1...A genuine 1655 case is 'worth' $15,000 to $20,000. Edit 8-2-21...After thinking it over, I have dropped my estimate down to a pretty good genuine case being 'worth' $12,000 to $15,000 at today's 1655 prices. Still a LOT of $$ imho. Q...Why drop it down? A...Because $15K to $20K just seemed too high. Maybe it was, maybe not. Considering the term 'worth' is a relative term... Q...How much would I pay for a pretty good genuine 1655 case considering I already have everything except a dial? A...About $3K or $4k because I believe that an 'expert case modder' could turn a high grade $1000+/- replica case into a case that will pass for genuine so that means a lot when trying to determine what a genuine case might be really worth (to me) today. After all, how could I know for sure it was really 'genuine'? Since I only wanted the 'SC 1655' to wear now and then, having $3000 in it is basically a bargain in today's Wacky Watch World. FYI...if I stuck my all genuine 1575 GMT movement (low mileage 1575 hack + nos oem GMT parts) in my Phong case with a pretty good aftmkt dial/hands/bracelet, it would probably cost between $4500 and $5000. Some GMT 1675 and 1655 movement + 'shortcut 1655' info: Building an MBW Sub + 'shortcut' rlx 1560/70 GMT conversions... - Page 2 - The Rolex Area - RWG GMT conversion parts needed from: Cal. 1570 GMT- tell me if I m wrong ? - The Rolex Area - RWG Here is most of what is needed to convert a 1565/75 to a 1565/75 GMT: #8038 - center second pinion 5.70mm #8037 - Cannon Pinion 3.39mm #8039 - double tooth hour wheel 2.44mm #8040 - 24hr wheel 1.41mm #8035 - Calendar Wheel nut #8036 - Date Jumper #8006 - Yoke for cam #8008 - spring for cam yoke #8011 - stud for cam #8030 - Center wheel with Cannon Pinion #8034 - Calendar Wheel #8011 - Stud for Cam #7965 - calendar spacer Q...What is hard to find? A...All of it. Q...What is almost impossible to find? A: #7965 - calendar spacer #8034 - Calendar Wheel #8039 - double tooth hour wheel 2.44mm 7965 usually goes from $200 to $500 8034 usually $200 to $400 8039 used to be $200 or so...now close to $500 8034 calendar wheel aka 'date flipper' on eBay a few months back for $965 (!!) They must be getting hard to find too. 8036 date jumper currently on eBay (7-27-21 item 184060183308) for $389 + $20 shipping This is the part that centers the date wheel in the window and keeps it in place, last one I bought new was $38 iirc.
  10. "did it screw down all the way up to half a turn before fully tightening or only screwed down for half a turn?" It went on most of the way same as usual but got harder to turn just before sealing the gasket.
  11. "I know the rep casebacks won't fit a genuine 1680, if that helps." Yep, and I tried 8 or 10 replica DJ case backs on a 1601 case and every one had threads smaller than the 1601 case. Even tried a couple repsub case backs and the threads were also too small. Tried a rep 'tooter' case back for a 36mm toot and it was same as the rep DJ except for the writing on the back. Found a tutone DJ look-alike with 'Bubbles' on the dial and the back will screw down on the 1601 case but the threads seem to be a hair small so I did not try to tighten it. If you want it, send a mailing address...USA only. Btw...I always lightly lubricate case back threads after I had a 16xxx DJ case back seize up solid on a case many years ago. Finally got it to turn loose in a Bergeon 5700 case back remover but the threads stripped. Hard to believe how tight it was stuck, it screwed down like normal except for about half a turn. I use Chemours Krytox 205 on the threads and gasket. You can find it reasonably priced on eBay, Amazon etc. Product Description Size:0.5 oz | Style:Krytox GPL205 Performance Lubricant Grease Krytox GPL205 Grease features an effective temperature range of -36C thru 204C. Base oil viscosity, 18cSt @ 100 C / 160cSt @ 40 C. Oil separation from grease, wt loss, % per 30hr @ 99C = 4. NLG1 Grade 2. Krytox GPL205 contains no additives and can be used on components that may come in contact with all chemicals including acids, bases, solvents and other reactive chemicals. Typical applications include valves, bearings, seal barrier fluids, instruments and oxygen systems. Additionally, Krytox Grease is compatible with all elastomeric seal materials and engineering plastics. See Krytox Greases GPL202 through GPL207 for applications that require higher temperature ranges and high viscosity needs. See Krytox Greases GPL215 and GPL217 for slow speeds or extreme pressure applications that require molybdenum disulfide additives. See Krytox Greases GPL224 through GPL227 for high pressure, highly corrosive environments such as automotive bearings, sealed pump bearings, and electric motors bearings that require anti- corrosion/anti-wear inhibitor additives. Krytox Grease provides exceptional performance, stability, and reliability in the toughest conditions – to maximize productivity and equipment life. Krytox Grease is undamaged by, and non-reactive with, acidic or caustic cleaners and disinfectants, steam, moisture or high temps. Krytox Grease is non-toxic, has no chlorine content or hazardous VOC materials, is odorless and silicone-free in formulation.
  12. "...natural ageing is more than just scratches and dents!! It is not just mechanical but chemical as well." You have a good point there. No one would believe how many genuine vintage and modern rolex watches I have owned over the past 40+ years so I won't say but I have seen a lot of high mileage rolex watches up close and almost all of them seemed to be 'comfortable with their condition' for want of a better term. Not many of them have suffered damage indicating a catastrophic event. The ageing nearly always appears to be unremarkable and totally random with years of accumulated nicks and scratches providing a natural patina. Most of the serious damage has been from case corrosion, not rough usage. In some instances the watch was not good for wear around water and I had a 16xx DJ with a hole all the way through the case under the bezel from corrosion. Other than the hole, the case looked pretty good with only mild corrosion between the lugs and in the case back gasket area. Moderate cosmetic damage has not been a deep concern to me but I usually pass on buying severely damaged watches unless they are cheap enough to use for parts. I have seen quite a few DJ type cases with lugs that were slightly spread or tweaked together though. How they got that way I'll never know. Also saw a few that would rock quite a bit when placed on a flat surface because one or more of the lugs was bent up or down. No idea how this happened either. I only had one rolex case laser welded because of damage and it was a 14k gold case that had been chewed up between the lugs by a Speidel Twist-O-Flex bracelet with spring loaded end links. I have seen a lot of vintage gold case dress watches with 'Speidelitis' but the ongoing 'Gold Rush' has really thinned them out. 'Thinned out'. Literally. Like a guy I know who buys scrap gold flattens watch cases etc with a body shop hammer to save space when he ships 'scrap gold' out to be melted. Not many watch cases are showing up now.
  13. "My 1655 attempt with low budget." It does not look low budget to me. My 'shortcut' 1655 is also low budget except for the movement. The watch I started out with had a DG 3804 in it. It was oem spec inside the case and I already had most of the movement parts so the project took off from there. First time I tried the 1575 movement in the cartel case it would not slip into the case but a day or two later I tried again and it went right in. I did not have the movement level the first time and it stuck in the case. "Also for the Vietnam bezel is necessary shave down the cartel and also the gen spec plexi sternutz or whatever the name is..." I will probably end up using an aftmkt crystal that fits the case neck properly and polish the OD of the crystal down so the 'too tight' bezel will slip down over it. I have a few crystals that fit this description and I will mount them on an empty case and sand and polish the OD down to fit. I mount an empty case in a lathe with the crystal pushed down over the case neck and sand/polish it while it spins. The crystals almost always fit the case neck tight enough to stay on but if the crystal is too loose on the case neck, I can put a piece of watch paper between the case neck and crystal to tighten it up a little bit so it will not come off. I decided sanding the crystal OD down is easier and better than machining the ID of the bezel. Rule #22: "Make the part fit the watch, not the other way around." Ha! I have a Phong '1655' case and there is really not much difference at all between the two cases except the cartel case has the slightly oversize dial and dial opening in the case...and the very good engraving on the Phong case. All I did to the cartel case is clean out the case tube threads, put a new case tube in it, drill the lug holes out, and change the crystal/bezel. The crystal that came on it did not suit me so I changed it out and got in a mess matching the crystal/bezel set to fit. From a previous post: "I just build a 1655 with BP Base watch and inside is engraved 1675." I have an Abay '1655' from 15+ years ago and it has '1680' between the lugs and inside the case back. It also uses a 127 spec crystal, 26.5mm dial, and has too much space around the 6mm crown. Back then they used any case that was handy. Most of them came with new swiss ETA 2836 and non adjustable china 24 hour conversions. Two of mine had new ETAs and one had a used ETA. All the sapphire GMT II I got back then had new swiss ETA 2836 with non adjustable china 24H conversions. The GMT cases were properly sized and laser signed. 'Replica Classics' Ha!
  14. "If you did the "Jar of coins" aging, then polished it, then wore it hard, you would achieve a believable aged case." I have heard of putting a watch in blue jeans side pockets along with some coins during active wear for a few days. It would probably ruin an acrylic crystal but the marks would be random. Also heard of putting them in stone polishers/tumblers along with small parts...nuts, washers etc. I never wore a watch long enough to beat it up and I guess the longest I have ever worn the same watch is the 'shortcut 1655' I stuck together a while back out of parts from here and there...wore it 3 or 4 months just to see if it would make it without any trouble although I admit putting it on a winder a few times when I did not want to fool with it. It made it. I was surprised. Today...wore a steel 30+ year old quartz TAG Heuer Formula, paid $75 for it years ago. It looks pretty good for its age, the case is matte finished, not polished with an 'all glow' trit dial, yellow plastic bezel, rubber strap, (rep) deployant clasp with TAG triangle. A kid watch.
  15. Mini rant. I have owned a lot of watches over the years...new, used, genuine, and replica. One thing I have never owned (afaik) is a replica watch with an 'artificially aged' case. I have purchased some beat up watches but not one that got that way on purpose (afaik again). Why? 1...Because it never looks like natural ageing. Never. 2...I have seen some very nice watches killed by 'artificial aging'. 3...If and when you decide to sell it, the watch will usually be worth quite a bit less than a 'naturally aged' or pristine example. Why is this? Because everyone wants a cherry or wants to bruise their own cherry. Chime in. Btw...artificially aged dials are a different matter to me because they are usually cheaper and easily replaced. Besides that, on vintage watches a scratched crystal can hide a lot of mistakes.
  16. Fine looking watch! Well worth the time and effort. My '1675' stories: Had a genuine 1675 like it in 1997, black insert and all but I traded it away. The fellow I traded it to had his house robbed soon after and they got it along with 20 or 30 other watches. It turned out his doper niece and her boyfriend did the robbery and they got caught. Most of the watches were still in their possession when they caught them but the GMT was missing and they would/could not tell where it went. The County Sheriff's Department held the watches for evidence and it took a year or more before he got the rest of the watches back. Have a replica '1675' from 12 or 15 years ago that came with printed hour markers, acrylic crystal, Pepsi insert, pretty good 'aged' markers, pierced lugs, and a new (not referb) swiss ETA 2836 with china non adjustable 24H hand conversion. It was supposed to be a '1675' but with the 28.8 ETA 2836 it is closer to a 16750. So...now it is a '16750'. They look alike anyway. I can not remember where I got it (River?) but it is still new and unworn with a jubilee bracelet. I just now looked and it has a 6mm crown (not 5.3) and two way friction (no notch) bezel with no numbers between the lugs or inside the case back. It is still unworn because It has one major flaw that jumps out...it says 'Oyster Perpetual Date' on the dial and it should have 'Oyster Perpetual'. I have looked through at least 100 images of rlx 16750 with printed marker dials and have never seen one with 'OPD'. Otoh all the 16750 with applied markers have 'OPD' on them. I doubt many would notice this flaw but it has always bothered me. I could buy a dial but just do not want to spend the $$.
  17. "Very tasty!" The nips or the watch? I vote for both.
  18. "You have, or try it?" No, I thought about making one but never did. "Hmm from China." Yeah, it makes my alarm bells go off. I've had bad luck with some of the china Bergeon lookalikes etc. If it was around $75 instead of $229 I would give it a shot. Otoh Esslinger has one for $419.95. Probably better quality but waaay too much $$ for me. Rolex® Oyster Watch Bracelet Link Remover Tool (esslinger.com) I could probably make one using a small drill press vise with clamps mounted on the tops of the jaws for $100 or so...after 8 or 10 hours of mistakes. Ha! I have a small lathe and milling machine but I'm too lazy to jump on it right now. Here are images of all types of small drill press vises etc: images of small drill press vises - Bing images You could start with one similar to this: Then make a couple screw down clamps to mount on top of the jaws. It looks like the jaws are thick enough to drill and tap. It is made by Wilton and their vises are good quality...about $75USD, p/n 12800. Pressing the links back together is easy after a bit of practice, I've done quite a few. I have a knurling tool for my lathe if I need new or oversize pins but by the time I drag it all out and get it ready...I'm out of the notion to fool with it. I'm gettin' old and lazy.
  19. Stainless Steel Watch Bracelet Remover Installation Tool fit Oyste Jubili Band | eBay eBay item number: 233723920020
  20. 6-26-2021 An oem 1600 type case has a flat case back gasket that mounts on the case back. The case has a flat step machined in it to accommodate the gasket when the case back is screwed down. An oem 16200 type case uses an O ring gasket that mounts in the case. The case back has a flat sealing surface that presses against the O ring in the case to seal it. Most replica 16200 type cases use the O ring gasket mounted in the case. Some may not. The threads may or may not be the same, I never tried them. 6-27-2021 I tried a genuine rlx 1601 case back on a couple 162xx type replicas and it would not fit either one. Both cases were made for O ring gaskets mounted in the case. One had a groove for case clamps, one did not. They look like the same basic case with slightly different finishing. Both had oem spec case necks and blind lug holes. The 1601 CB is 32.35mm OD and my rep 162xx case backs were both 33.0mm in diameter. The 1601 CB threads are approximately 30.8mm and the replica 162xx CB threads are 30.0mm. Next, I tried the 1601 case back on a genuine rlx 162xx case...no go. The 162xx CB threads are approximately 30.25 and the 1601 threads being approximately 30.8mm are too big. So...it will be hit or miss. Btw, I was using a cheapo digital caliper so the measurements may be off a hair...maybe a hair and a half. Besides that, there is no standard for replica cases so you never know what you might get.
  21. (J551) Option 1 "Maybe i Keep the TC movement and try to repair it." (SS) Option 2 "I have Swiss ETA movements in stock." No one asked me but I vote for option 2. From my past experience, many/most china etaclones are prone to be Junk in the long run. A few of the china etaclone parts are Ok though...ETA 2836 non adjustable 24H conversions for example. Some of the autowind assemblies can be Ok if cleaned and oiled before use. China 3135 rlxclones...I never had one but a few issues come to mind from what I have read: None will interchange with ETA 28xx swiss or etaclone. Different dial foot location, different hands etc. There are a few different designs of the 3135 rlxclone. Some Ok, some not so good. Movements may arrive dirty and dry or dirty and over oiled. Need to be $erviced. No parts = A Big Problem. Some genuine parts may fit but they cost a lot of $$. Auto wind assembly problems. Calendar problems. Etc. The Plus...they 'appear to be' genuine. The Minus...rlx watches have solid case backs.
  22. Rolojack You are right about vintage 'classic' rolex watches imho. Compared to the past 30 year's output they were just a few drops in the rolex bucket. I bet rolex watch co absolutely hates vintage rolex watches because they are in reality their main competitor. I also bet there is only one thing RWC hates more than rolex vintage watches (imho)...the people who buy, collect, and wear them because they have the $$ to buy them and can afford parts and service to keep them running. So...what does RWC do to retaliate? Cut off the parts to starve them out. I guess vintage watch cases were not rotting out fast enough to suit them. Ha! "Sir, is that a vintage rolex 5512 on your wrist, powered by the famous calibre 1570 that is currently selling for $20,000?" No, it is a new MBK with the famous ETA 2879 that goes for about $1000." What may I ask is the difference?" "Not much, at all."
  23. Rolex 1016 case changes over the years: Case – Rolex Explorer 1016
  24. "But on the other hand the gen Rolex prices have skyrocketed too. 1675 was a 4000-5000$ watch 10 years ago. Now it's a $14000 watch." A 1675 was $450 in 1975 (!!). Otoh $450 was a lot of $$ back then. Here is a partial price list from 1973: Image from: https://www.bing.com/images/blob?bcid=Tm-zrNoCG90CEA Prices 1957 to 2020: Rolex Price Evolution (minus4plus6.com)
  25. "It looks like the forum isn't as active as before or is it me? I see the post dates are quite far apart." Yeah it's a ghost town compared to a few years ago. Sometimes there will be a flurry of posts but the flurries seem to be getting farther apart. Seems to me that mechanical watches in general are losing steam, not just replicas and the 'born digital' generation does not seem to care very much about mechanical watches. Watches are a hobby with me and high prices and no parts is a definite hobby killer. I used to buy/sell/trade mostly 1530 base rolex watches but they are no longer affordable (to me) so they are of little interest now. I'll wear one now and then to road test it but that's about it. I am back to where I started...wearing an Accutron. Make that an Accutron II.
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