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marrickvilleboy

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Posts posted by marrickvilleboy

  1. yeah roughly.

    Involve putting an ETA 6498 into the rep case. Redialing the dial and drilling a new hole for the subsecond dial. Polishing of the backcase and tightening or loosening of the hands to fit the 6498.

    Even then it will look nothing as nice as the genuine. :(

  2. yeah apparently the lume on it isn't very impressive, the markers are not raised like the genuine.

    I've liked the XXL railmaster, i think its one hell of a watch but at 49mm i think its a tad too big for my wrist. Plus there is no good reps of it, I was thinking of making my own, but it will cost me around 200USD and I dont think it'll look that good...

    :(

  3. yeah the railmaster should say "railmaster" on it. The picture that you have provided is from Joshua, so if you look at the model below that one; with the leather strap, then that would be the correct model. It also has the see-through caseback, i held it at an authorised dealer and its very nice.

    EDIT: sorry, realised i didnt answer the question for you. No, i dont think its an original design as the ATs had bar markers and railmasters have the "12, 9, 6, 3" numerals on the dial.

  4. Well i've tried it and its worked fine, so has i think The Zigmeister.

    Your other option is use paint for cars, i'm sure its gotta a better adhesive bond in relation to metals compared to model paint. But as you know, its all about trying, if it doesnt sit well, just turps to wipe it off, then you're back to square one.

    I've done this to original tag watches which the black bezel numerals have faded. Its worked perfectly, give it a go and let us know how it went.

    Good luck

  5. @ Marricvilleboy: Don't approach me like you know me.

    You don't know the research that I am doing before I post. And the best way to learn is to ask. If you don't wish to answer or don't have an answer, then don't.

    Don't make this board an uncomfortable place for people, especially the noobs.

    LOL!

    allow me to quote you

    Why think when I can have you smart folks do the thinking for me. In America, we like to outsource everything, including the thought process.

    and you doing alot of research? well if you did, you would know how to remove a crown cos there are alot of topics that cover basic removal of movements from case.

    Btw, how do you remove the crown?

    and if you actually looked at dealers websites and listings you can see that they are the exact same model from the same factory.

    So if i were you, i'll read alot more. And for your information, i dont make new users uncomfortable, i just don't like new users who don't use the search function, by the way, i think dablackrock already hinted it to you, but you didn't pick up, but let me give you a polite reminder to please use the search function.

  6. The best way i've heard is just use model paint, you know...the paint that is used to paint model tanks/planes/etc. The best way to do it is since the engraving on the bezel is indented, you just brush the paint roughly over the bezel, no need to be precise at all, making sure you cover all the numbers and letters. Let the paint settle a little bit, but dont let it dry totally, then use a cloth with turps and wipe off the excess paint on the bezel.

    Result: the paint in the engravement are still there but the mess that you've made around it will be cleaned up. Good as new!

    hope this helps.

  7. Sorry - i think i messed up my description. They claim that it works the way the rolex and omega GMT's actually work. The date is connected to the hour hand. The hour is independant of the GMT.

    Hopefully i am describing this correctly.

    yes, the hour hand is adjustable, so the hand stacks are correct compared to the original. But apparently everything else was botched; bad font on the writings, bad crown, etc.

    However, you have to take into consideration that with the 2836 being modded to accommodate the GMT hand, you are running into the risk of having them break down alot easier, and no everyone will be willing fix them (I certainely won't) as they are not true GMTs and the chances of them breaking again is just as likely, so no watchsmith will be willing to guarantee their work.

    And one last thing, the hour hand doesnt work like the genuine, the genuine omegas and rolex moves in 1 hour increments, while this one doesn't.

    hope this helps.

  8. A genuine movement would really be the icing on the cake. I have been considering this project for a while now, as I really, really like this watch (and have a soft spot for vintage in general). Unfortunately, I have promised Mrs. Krusty a new Mercedes in the next couple of weeks, so I may have to live vicariously on here for a bit. BTW, a genuine movement would run you $1kish. I know where to get one (reputable).

    @ krustyband,

    i'm sure a couple of hundred dollars wont hurt the budget if you can buy a Merc for the missus!

    come on! you know you want this watch! do you know whether this model is even still accessible from our dealers?

  9. I thought i might just take a few pictures of my watches with different bands, so in case some of you guys want to change it around, you will have a rough idea what they would look like. I shouldn't have used a black background though, sorry.

    SMP bond with nato band

    72025-32334.jpg

    Speedmaster automatic with black leather band

    72025-32335.jpg

    SMP black with black leather band with white stitching with deployment clasp

    72025-32336.jpg

    SM-GMT white dial with brown leather band

    72025-32337.jpg

    what do you guys think?

  10. well this project was quite expensive, should have just bought a good 2nd hand Omega speedmaster auto from ebay! :(

    The movement was damaged when i got it so it wasn't so much of a bargain, i saw the same movement working that went for $150USD!

    i've been getting omega parts so much cheaper from my source so i couldn't help myself but build this myself.

    -_-

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