alligoat

I just got a 5513 (3-6-9 dial) with the stubby crown guards from Josh- it's actually a very nice watch. I like the bracelet, dial, bezel insert and the dg2813 is keeping good time. I'll start working on it when I get back from vacation in a couple of weeks. Trim the cg's and put a smaller crown in there.

Just looking at it, the bottom lettering looks lopsided, the 200m- 660ft part and SUBMARINER looks funny also

Sure is a beautiful find- congrats!

I wonder if you offered to pay Matt by check or Western Union, if he might agree to build a watch for you. I know he had a recent issue with a scammer using paypal and if you paid by check or some other way, he'd avoid that paypal scenario.

Yeh, I call it Son of Phong, But I've never bought anything from them. At any rate, it's all similar to Phong's stuff and must come from the same supplier over in Vietnam, I would think. I did buy from a lady out in the Phoenix area 5 years ago or so, but she was in the Glendale area- other side of town from Chandler- but they also move around.

I think the dial is a MKIV- which puts the 'L' in ROLEX over to the left. I don't have a problem with the Tiffany print myself. But the case is all wrong and that bracelet is put together- 78360 w/ a flip lock clasp- probably off a 93150- or could it be a rep clasp? 455B end pieces are a joke and those spring bars aren't correct. I wonder if Rolex just said they don't service that model anymore to be polite. No point in getting in a rue with a customer who has a fake case!

Alas, Ziggy is gone and retired, but didn't I read back a long time ago where he built someone a stem- can't remember if it was for another MM..... @ philwong- that movement shot looks like a gen movement, hence a gen 6263!

I ran across this one from Josh the other day- it's correct for the older 18238 with the flat spot between the lugs. http://www.pf-818.com/rlddf10013-full-gold-white-dial-stick-markers-swiss-28362-p-997.html As is the case with Josh's listings, you may have to click on the link two times. And I doubt the movement will be a swiss eta, but an asian clone would still be my choice over a chinese dg2813 variation. I don't know what it would cost with Matt, but it's going to be $400-500 I would think, but might have a swiss eta so that alone is worth $150 premium these days

TC is still around and certainly if you're looking for a 16610 or 16610 LV, he's the go to person. He's pretty busy and you may have to contact him thru his blog or email and not thru the forum. RWG doesn't have a feedback system like some of the other forums, but people are always happy to help others out around here. That's how I've learned so much about watches.

It's not a copy of the V23- which is the bi-compax version of the V72. I remember Ziggy referring to it as resembling an older Venus movement People have had them serviced, but if you need parts for it, you're SOL.

The BK V5 is a pretty good deal IMO. With a Swiss ETA, it should hold up for a long time and no mods are needed. I doubt you can find a better rep bracelet than the one that's on it. Learning to mod watches is not that hard. It just takes time, lots of reading and then some practice. The watch in my avatar is a 16800 with the matte dial, circa 1981-2.

They look like a pretty retail organization- i.e. expensive. Have you tried looking on ebay for dials? It also might help if you were more explicit about what you're trying to build.

Right side is the DW 6239 with the Albino dial and left side is a 6238 with the 6239 bezel.

I'm with Beachcomber on this- enjoy the watch and if it's WR, all the better!

If you go directly to Phong's site- jewelryandwatch.com http://www.jewelryandwatch.com/contents/en-us/d123.html you can buy the 6538 for $4500 or $4750 depending on the dial. You have to log on to see the prices- so best to register.

You could buy a whole bracelet, but it would probably have the sub clasp- not the short one for the EXPII or GMT. If you could post a pic of your watch, maybe someone might have a spare bezel- worth a try. I have one- just not sure what shape it's in. When you say noob EXPII- are you talking about the new one or the older one from 5-6 yrs ago?

You can always try the one from riyi002 http://www.ebay.com/itm/20MM-GOLDEN-PRESIDENT-BAND-BRACELET-WITH-FLAT-ENDS-FOR-ROLEX-MEN-DAY-DATE-WATCH-/351380890289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cfeee2b1 It has the flat ends so it works on the 1803, 18038 or the 18238. He also has one with the rounded ends http://www.ebay.com/itm/20MM-SOLID-STEEL-GOLDEN-PRESIDENT-BRACELET-BAND-FOR-ROLEX-MEN-DAY-DATE-WATCH-/351384627898?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51d027eaba Works on the 118238.

Boy, you did get a sweet deal from Daniel- congrats on a beautiful watch!

Hi Stephane! Good to see you around. I agree with J.S. on this- similar to the sub where the lugholes disappeared in 2003 mid Y serial, it would make sense that the same happened with the Explorer II. I wonder if they called it a T case like on the sub!

It looks nice to me. Only drawback is the 2813 movement, I'd probably upgrade to the Asian eta clone myself. This would be the 118238 DD. You can check Josh out also- I saw where he had a model that was the older 18238- Rolex quit making the 18238 in 2001 or 2002.

You probably ought to just buy the 2.5mm x .25 tap. Have you tried looking on line like at tool places- I bought a couple of the 3.0mm x .35 taps for like $6-7 each. You didn't say which type of pusher you're installing, but either way, if the pusher has a slot in it, you just screw the pusher in from the inside of the case with a small screwdriver. A pic of the pusher tool you're talking about would help

Not a bad deal- thanks for sharing! Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam! Old farts like me still think of it as Saigon!

The movement looks ok to me. The attachment screws are in the right place, gears are the right color. Balance is correct. The backside of the case at the pushers is correct. Like I say, if you have Rolex service it, you'll be all set for the next 5-7 years

The watchmaker's silicone grease might do the same thing that Nanuq just described with Vaseline.

G-S Crystal cement comes to mind, or a silicone adhesive. The crystal cement from G-S has a nice applicator which could make the deal a lot easier. Silicone is tricky and messy to work with, but when it dries it can be removed fairly easily. To my knowledge, Rolex doesn't use glue when installing these crystals- they are a tight pressure fit.