Ronin

Does anyone know how the 2nd Time Zone on these work? Since there is no 24hr indicators, is it simply a 2nd 12hr hand that is independently settable?

You can try to find what you need at www.ofrei.com or www.casker.com. Oris AD's are generally smaller independent watch shops that do mail-order business. You can probably call one of those and hope GEN parts are interchangeable.

Generally you have a dial spacer to keep the datewheel from rubbing the bottom of the dial. You also might have a case retention ring for securing it to the case. Finally, there is often a small "washer" that sits between the dial and center wheels that drive the hands. That should sum up any extra loose parts.

I love the history and their vintage stuff. They also seemed to nail a "Style" that is approachable by nearly anyone (Aquaracer/Carrera). Personally, because they are so approachable and even stylistically neutral, they just come off as very average/middle-of-the-road. It is a safe watch to buy. If TH were a car company, they would be a Ford/Honda(Acura)/Toyota(Lexus) like company. Solid, reliable, something for everybody. Just my impression.

Looks great! What did you do for a retention ring? Also, datewheel?

If you are into Tritium Lume, look into "Ball Watch". Edit to add, if you wear something like a Ball StormChaser Glow to a movie theater, wear long sleeves. The glow is about as annoying to fellow movie goers as a cell phone display.

Cool. I like the Certina a lot.

I also find that people HIDE behind the anonymity of the internet. I dare any of those "anti-rep/you are a fake person" guys to say that to my/our face in person.

Correct. Crown/Tube not compatible. I would go out on a limb and say the xtals will interchange. The dial feet on the H-Factory 112 dial were not compatible with a SWISS GEN 6497. YMMV. The noob 111 dial however was compatible with a SWISS GEN 6497.

That $25.00 tool is useless. The ONLY watch it ever worked on for me was a MBW 1665, and when it lets go you will probably scratch something anyway. +1 Red...

I have successfully interchanged Noob and H-Factory parts with my DSN 112/111 176/177 stuff. Although my crystals are Chief AR'd DSN originals. The only other gotcha I noticed is there seemed to be a variance in H-Factory Dial Feet for the Asian 6497, but not the Noob. Strange... Also, the Noob Crown would not fit the DSN case without opening up the tube. CG's and Casebacks were interchangeable though. HTH,

Although briefly mentioned, it was glossed over. I wish someone with an account over there would chime in with: "Replica Guys are responsible for flagging down the majority of scammers selling fake/reps on eBay", we know every detail so well and are thus qualified to perform this "Public Service". There IS "Honor amongst RepWIS's" The fake people stuff is laughable. I personally own MORE GENS then most of the Gen Fourm guys who maybe get their one grail Omega/Rolex/etc. But, I also own REPS. So by that logic, what the fsck am I? 1/2 Fake. I do love the car analogies. If I rolled into a Porsche Club event in a Beck Spyder, I would be welcomed. If I showed up at a Rolex GTG with a 6542 Franken, I would be burned at the stake.

Two quick additions. The watch in that auction is 1.) Quartz, and 2.) the Chrono is faux/non-working. In short, it has a $1.00 movement (wholesale), and probably another $4.00 in parts (battery, hands, dial, strap). The seller is probably making $2.00 USD after fees and shipping, etc. As far as mark-up on reps here. I think some of that is to cover the risk. Risk of confiscation and thus a re-shipment by our trusted dealers. Risk of the law, etc. If I were shipping goods internationally with the threat that some % won't make it to the destination, I would probably mark my stuff up double to cover my a$$. Supply & Demand +Risk Bonus = Rep Price.

Awesome!

Yes, most are probably already dry-rotted beyond salvaging. I now feel like you do about stay away from that era. However, when were kids, playing "Army" with this surplus stuff, we actually got a kick out of some blood stained pouches and a bayonet we had. Now I am kinda freaked out by it. Especially after seeing "Band of Brothers" and "Private Ryan". In short, it can dry-rot, continue to decay and break down in an attic or basement somewhere, or as mentioned can be put to use and thus maintained. Since the reality is these have no fiscal value, putting it on a toy watch of little value is a wash. The rest is just Karma if you are so inclined. Like Nanuq said, if this was a family members that survived this horrible time, and their old gear, put it to use.

+1 Exactly. When I was a kid, this "junk" filled Army-Navy Surplus Stores. I really see it having no more value than a mass produced trinket from China these days.

I see, so you are not looking to spoof yourself, but have others (say members here), spoof ourselves to vote for you. Got it. No easy free way to do that.

Ball COSC Diver

There is spoofing, and then there is proxying. You probably won't have the mad hacker skills to spoof from your house since that would mean compromising internet routing. You therefore have two viable options. 1.) Use a proxy service like hidemyass.com that lets you select geographic based proxy servers in all major cities. So as long as you are 100 miles from a MAJOR city, this is an option. CONS: This service requires paying for it. Also, you will need to "Rotate" IP's, because the vote/contests probably looks at "unique" IP's, or weights them. 100 votes from the same IP might be discounted. HideMyAss does allow Rotating IP's. 2.) Just use social engineering/networking. Got a Twitter Feed? Got some people in the area that can use Twitter to encourage people to vote? (I HATE FaceBook, but same logic applies here). Leverage Social Networks to Rock the Vote. Best of all it is FREE. HTH

Grail again.

Nothing quite like Tritium Gas Tubes.

Can't seem to report it with my USA based eBay account. Come on UK crew, flag him down.