praetor

feet don't fit and hands don't fit.. nuff said.

Rolex Insert Sizes (for future reference =D)hmm, can't keep the formatting but watever Old Sub ////// New Sub 315-5513 5513 5512 1665 1680 9401 //// 315-16808-81 16808 / 16618 Outside Diameter: 36.55mm ////Outside Diameter: 37.65mm Inside Diameter: 30.3mm ////Inside Diameter: 30.7mm Old GMT New GMT 315-16750-1 16750 / 1675 /1670 315-16700-1 //// 16700 315-16753-1 16753 GOLD //// 315-16760-7 16760 / 16710 Outside Diameter: 37.75mm //// Outside Diameter: 37.65mm Inside Diameter: 30.2mm //// Inside Diameter: 30.7mm New Style Sub no date //// New Sea Dweller 14060 //// 16660 Outside Diameter: 36.55mm ///// Outside Diameter: 36.65 Inside Diameter: 29.7mm ///// Inside Diameter: 29.70mm

broaching is too slow, use mr. rat tail file.

^ whatever you can afford. My PT 1665 so far has: - gen service T39 - gen 702 crown & tube - gen spring bars - gen mk1 fat font insert cost in parts so foar ~$270 -300 ish go insane!!

^ ditto... the size you're looking for is 36.6 outside and 30.3 on the inside. My 5513 case fits a 16800 insert though hahahha =D that's what I get for buying cheap.

oh cool.. thanks for telling us. part1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=namj9CES-TE part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNcf5o9N3WA&NR=1 good to know it's 90% computerized

Experiments??? As in fading experiments? It's recommeded that you use bleach and underestimate the time you put it in the solution since residual bleach might continue to fade the insert afterwards. As for the inserts I know (all prices are estimate from memory): Mr. Slimeball $14 (not accurate at all) Clark's (modern thin font) $20 Yuki (fat font): $30 (fades to grey) PMWF (thin font) $65 (fades to grey)- best aftermarket. For reference ID: 30.4 mm OD: 36.5 mm As with pearls, stick with yuki and ofrei. They're around 25 dollars each. either that or make your own pearl from epoxy and lume. of course there's always gen, that can be found for $ 160+. So either experiment or buy gen.. your choice.

lol @ the profile shot, ultra dome... It looks nice and vintage

who has the best sub... hahaha 0.o

ETA and TAG heuer's movement is virtually the same and that should include the same size screws too. Right now, the parts are so identically machined and polished for ETA movements that the only difference is how each watchmaking house decorate the movement. As far as I'm concerned, there is no difference between someone trained to decorate the movement the same way and some bozo working in TAG Heuer. The only problem with it is the blue screws. The right thing to do is to send the buyer a pair of greyed screws. for 300 euros, can't complain about it much even if it is a swiss 7750 finished to look like a caliber 16 by some watchmaker because that's what I figure what it would cost anyways. so chill the [censored] out dude

the second one isn't fake. The crown position isn't aligned with the pushers and the date window is not touching the edge. Moreover, it has a gen croc strap. Worst case scenario is that it's one of sander's ultra franken with a genuine box. now why would anyone go through that trouble just to sell one?

so you finally got that old printer back together huh? I don't know if it's the camera or the printing, but the font looks fuzzy. otherwise, good job.

BK... nuff said

Compared to my wm9 bracelet, the PT 93250 ones I got with my case set have a distinct cheaper quality steel feeling and construction. I don't like them personally. what do you guys think of this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220789889807&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

looks like you sanded or scuffed the dial as well. Now it's a nice homage watch lol. Maybe put the dial in the oven next time

Wow... will keep this thread bookmarked. Lovely pictures and write ups. One question though, shouldn't lug hole placement affect the ability to use gen endlinks? hmm.

I'm hacking away at a $70 inaccurate Rolex rep with some needle files heheh. Will also be putting some aftermarket parts in it. will post pics when I'm done with it.

yea, canadian customs is like a lottery really, anything non expensive labelled stuff goes through without a problem usually. But 21 years!!! But it was wearable much before that 21 years have passed so 21 years isn't too bad.

so you're trying to take the insert out or get rid of the glue? From researching in this forum, it was actually recommended that you use Shoe Goo. Why? it's non permanent, waterproof and doesn't expand when it sets.

I hate trimming crown guards too and I've only done it once. Good job on making the process much more efficient. I wish factories would get it right the first time (as if that's ever possible). what about trimming the profile of the crown guards though? though you'd still have to do that by hand

cheapo rolexes are still $70 dollars ish, but quite fun for practice modding eh? I melted the crystal on mine because they glued the crystal retaining ring =D

collecting rolexes does that to you sometimes, drives you mad trying to get your rep to perfection, but for me it usually goes away in 2 months of wearing my reps. But yea, I have three rolex projects under construction too hahaha. Good job on the project, collecting the parts must've taken you years. I've already seen at least $2500 worth in parts just from the first few lines of description 0_o

well, once you've finished everything, there's always the photography and going out doing stuff with the watch. I have a peculiar 5513 case in a project I'm doing. It fits a 16800 insert, 26.8mm dial, a 28.7mm ID 30.42 OD crystal, but otherwise looks perfect. It's one hell of a challenge, bought some cheapie asian rep to fit all my spare parts I bought by "mistake" XD

I'm so jealous... I love the gen dial.

it's not that modern rolex's parts are hard to get. They are moderately difficult to say the least, easiest being the insert and crown. The thing is that they're so expensive that it's really hard to justify the cost of your franken. For example, a wm9 would cost 500 dollars, with the cost of parts to get it almost genuine minus movement, it's as if you've just paid for a genuine with the movement taken out.