freddy333

No, it is forever (or until Google & whoever may purchase their data stores in the future goes away). For a laugh, read this from a few years ago. The data might go away, at some point, if/when the universe ends, but not before. And there is no guarantee even then.

Because RWG is openly accessible via the web, google spiders/indexes it on a regular basis. So, as has been noted many times before (here & elsewhere), you should always assume that anything you post to a website will be searchable on google.

You might use this insert as a guide (it is a naturally-aged gen)

Ending the work week still wearing my Bond Sub

Try this

Not sure why you are worrying about curves inside the CGs? The bottom corners should be squarish anyway. Simply (gently) clamp the case in a vice & use a flat file to grind down the inner-sides (inside) of the CGs to match the gen you are using as a model. Then, smooth things out with a dremel & sandpaper, & polish. Not really rocket science

I would ask DW to reset the chrono & then shoot another pic to be sure the (chrono) hands align correctly, which is the most common problem with chronographs.

Like the book says, still wearing my tropical Bond Sub

Are you sure that 'super cheap' gen SD dial (the 1 that says 'SWISS' @ 6) is gen?

Exactly.

I do not think older reps were necessarily more accurate, but, instead, that some reps were (accidentally) put together with more accurate parts. Of course, the very next series from the same factory got put together with different parts again, so the game goes on. And I will hold my comments regarding the Pam interruption.

Read this

What I want to know is how everyone finds their watch after the party is over?

You will need to uncase the movement, remove the hands & dial & realign/reset the keyless works.

Who did you order the stem from & are you sure it is new/unused? New stems are always much longer than required & must be cut to fit. If your stem is too short, something is wrong.

Did you order the stem for a 2836-2?

As has been now said multiple times, today's crazy price will be tomorrow's bargain.

I have the white version of this dial in my '39 & I would have gotten this black 1 were it not for the off-axis layout of the minute totalizer (look at the vertical lines in each of the totalizers & you will see the difference). I have contacted the seller about this, but all of his black Newmans are printed this way All of his Newmans are also marred by slightly too-small totalizers (too much space between the totalizer & outer minute track of the dial) & incorrectly placed (fake-looking) crowns. I replaced & correctly reoriented a gen crown on my '39. Regardless of the seller, 62xx Daytona dials have always been a hit-or-miss affair. For a '63, I would probably start with DW & then check out NDT's & Phong's offerings. Most of these dials are fitted with terrible crowns. Some, especially from Phong, are so poorly made that they look like they were shaped with a chisel. On the other hand, excepting the horrid crown, a couple of Phong's dials were truly outstanding. So, if you are willing to perform a crown transplant & do not mind paying for an extra gen dial (it does not have to be a Daytona), you can end up with a quite accurate Cosmo

I do not have a 1680, but there is about a 2.5mm rise on my gen T19

Interesting, but, like the 7032, not my cup of tea, nor, as I see it, a real Ferrari.

Ending the work week still wearing my Sub

Same again