gavidoc

Red that really is a beauty you got there. Shame we don't know where the case came from. Really want one for my Frak-9411. Edog told me what the issue with the movement was. Glad his other watchsmith got it working.

Lani, You'll need to do a comparison of the cases if you're using your Exp II. Jury is still out but is leaning towards all rolex bracelets except the newer ones (like DSSD) are 316L and only the cases are 904. That might explain why your DSSD bracelet is so close to your Exp II bracelet. I tend to agree with this assessment as the tones of my Exp II case to bracelet were not a match when I owned it.

Dan, Glad to see that this issue was resolved for you. I also had an order that had some QC issues that Chris more then resolved for me so I don't have any fears that he will make ammends for you on this one. Quick run down on my experience: I ordered an MBW case from Chris about 6 months ago. Took about 4 weeks before it was ready but he sent me some pictures before shipping. Case arrived and I began modding it full out. Springbar holes, crownguards, new crown tube and crown. When I installed the movement and went to close it up that was when I noticed the BIG issue. The case was bent. Not slightly but to the point that the caseback wouldn't screw down all the way. I didn't notice this when I removed it as it wasn't on tight but when I tried to tighten it up, nothing. So I started looking at it closer thinking it was the caseback. That was when I noticed the "stress" lines in the case in line with the crown tube hole on both sides. I hadn't installed the new crystal yet so I looked closer at that side and that was when I noticed that the crstal retainer wasn't sitting flush on the case. I contacted Eurotimez about it and proceeded to "flatten" the case in a press. It flattened it out but in the process more then likely stressed the issue even more. The case got bumped up to chris and I explained to him what was wrong with the case and the mods that I did. He asked for some pictures which I provided and he said he'd take care of the issue. After I returned from a China business trip I had a brand new case waiting for me and Chris told me to not worry about sending back the old case. Great service once he was personally made aware of the issue. So no fears in my mind of a good resolution for you.

I think where you run into problems is that the inner dimensions of the 1680 Sub case are not the same as a 5513 case. As others have said, a 1680 dial is bigger then a 5513 dial. I've always heard about the issues with ETAs fitting into ND/Yuki cases and didn't know why as I've been told that the specifications for a Rolex Sub case were the same as the Tudor Sub case. When I had both a 5513, a 9411, and a 9401 I figured I'd try it out to see if the 5513 would fit in the Tudor cases (which are ETA based). The 5513 dial/movment was a drop in to both my 9401 caseand the 9411 case. i didn't have a 1680 to try out in the either case. All it did was make it more confusing for me as it seemed that a rolex sub movment would fit a sub case that housed an eta movement. I didn't try an eta movement in the 5513 case though.

The same holder will work for the 27 and the 28 series ETA movements. If using the MBW cases, the movement holders are fine.

To widen an insert, I use a beer bottle. I have a high grade UV tester at work that we use to "age" our product to see how it holds up. A typical 21 day test is the equivalent of approx. 15 years. I might have to throw an insert in there to see how it does. KBH, your insert looks really good. Just like my faded real ones. This one was pulled off a 7016 that I picked up in Hong Kong. Parted the watch out but kept the insert. I've got a few others in different states of fading as well but your's looks like this one and my other 7016 one. Both from 1968.

8mm crown tube wont fit the mbw as the crown is too close to the caseback>

Lani, You got a 2784 engine in that beauty? Awesome! Stephane, Ubi is right for the snowflake 7016/7021/94XX series/ 76100/79090/79190. The 7928 and early 7016's (and some snowflakes) came with either a US Rivet bracelet or a 7206 rivet bracelet with 80 endlinks (I think that's the reference for the endlinks). Gio, YOu might love the watch, but I love the pic in your sig.

Except that I don't think they are the same. From the charts I've seen, the 2484 date wheel is different from the 2784 date wheel. Ray is a good guy but the pricing on some of his stuff is outrageous. The matching 9401 dial and hand set he just posted are nice but the dial isn't mint. He's asking mint prices for the dial. Set should only go for around $600-$700 for those who are considering. As for the beat up dial, rough shape for $120 but still doable.....if desperate.

Thought Chris was based out of Singapore. I've dealt with Eurotimez and had a great experience. I ordered an MBW 5513 case from him. Took about 4 weeks but when he said it was shipped, it arrived in 5 days. The case turned out to be defective and I didn't notice till after I had modded it. Turned out the case was "bent" so that the caseback didn't screw down tightly. Add on top that it had a 1680 crystal on it instead of a 5513. I was able to straighten the case out and offered to send it back to chris so he could send me a new one. He said not to worry and he'd get me another one as well as a correct crystal for the first case (5513 crystal). I went off to China on business and when I returned, not only did I have a new 5513 MBW case waiting for me but I had 2 of them, an extra crystal, as well as a bond strap. He didn't ask for another dime from me even though I offered.

I am lucky as I live in a city that has two AD's that have their own repair centers with parts accounts. Both will service watches, replace parts and return any parts they replace to me. I use my gen's as the guinea pigs as they are all vintage pieces. I need a part, I take the watch in for that part and then switch it out. I've gotten endlinks, inserts, an entire bezel, and a crown doing that. I have my preferred AD but utilize both of them to do this and I don't do it often. They both know I travel a lot, buy gens while travelling, and flip my gens so they aren't surpised if I bring in a different one each time for some minor work.

I got a bond nato strap from eurotimez that had a Rolex buckle on it. The buckle was great even though the strap was junk. I put it on my real bond strap and of course, left the darn strap in the safe in one of my hotel rooms while I was in China. Now, I need another buckle but don't know where to get them. They aren't listed on the Eurotimez website. Anyone else sell them? Thanks.

$4400 is too much. YOu don't have to send a sub back to a RSC for service. The AD that I use for my Subs has his own staff that service the watches. He has a parts account and turn around time is 2 weeks. His price is half of a RSC service ($250 instead of $500) and he doesn't try to change all the parts on my vintage watches. His warranty is also 2 years instead of 1 year which is standard from the RSC. Not to mention I'm not paying an arm and a leg for parts. Example: 380b and 580b endlinks on the forums will run you $150-$200. Guess how much they cost straight from Rolex......$50 a set. Real crowns....$35 IIRC. Real tubes...$35 IIRC.

For those who might not know, the equipment used isn't what you'd find in your own shop. Having a Mill, center drills and endmills makes this easier then just the run of the "mill" drill bits and drill press.

To remove the tube, use a broken screw extractor. They come with a drill bit and the remover so that when you bust a screw head, you drill a hole in the middle of the screw and insert the remover. It has biting edges that dig into the hole when you unscrew it. As you already have a hole in the tube, it will come out with no issues. If there is glue on the threads, make sure to heat it up first. Works for tubes that are pressed in as well.

If considering getting a gen and you have all those sub reps, definately get one. Just be cautious that IMO if you get a gen of a rep that you have, it will make it that much harder to want to keep the reps that are similar. If cost is somewhat an issue for you in today's market, go for a 90's era modern sub with tritium dial. The no dates sell quite often for below $3000 with bracelet but no papers and the 16610 for below $3200-$3500. You can even obtain 1680 white's for below $4000 if you look hard. If you don't want to spend that kind of money on a sub, I would suggest looking at the Tudor line. Despite the popularity of Rolex compared to Tudor in the US, Tudors are quite popular everywhere else. The important thing to remember with a vintage Tudor is that they are actually more rare then their Rolex big brothers as A. Not as many were made, and B. so many other variations. You can easily get a vintage Tudor sub for less then $3000 today. Everything except the dial, movement, and hadns are Rolex. Plus you can open the variety with a blue dial which Rolex didn't offer in Stainless Steel till today, some 40 years after the first blue Tudor Submariner appeared on the market.

Depends on the style of bezel. I know that an MBW case will fit an acrylic crystal assembly if you use a gen crystal retainer as well.

If you have a Gen and a friendly AD that does their own servicing, you can get your original parts back. I do that all the time at my AD with my subs.

The standard movements for the Tudor line over the last 40 years have been ETA movements. Starting in 1968 Rolex started using the ETA 2461 and then the Rolex modified special calibre ETA 2483 in the non-date watches. Date watches that appeared in early 1970's used the ETA 2484. Starting in the mid 70's they switched to the ETA 27XX calibre. Then in the 80's moved on to the 28XX series. That is what they have been using since the 80's. So, if you're building an 80's and beyond, a standard ETA 2824-2 will suffice for a franken if you can't find an original Tudor movment. Same goes for the other ones. The 2483, 2484, 2776, and the 2784 movements can be difficult to find. The 2483 and 2484 as these IIRC special calibres used by Tudor. The 2776 and 2784 as they were high beat versions of other 27XX calibres. As for them buying Selllita, it wouldn't surprise me as Tudor is a direct competitor to the Swatch Group who owns ETA. One of the reasons Sellita has popped up as a competitive movement manufacture was due to Swatch Group's decisions with limiting the ETA calibres to non Swatch Group members.

Dang Offshore, YOu've been typing this since Friday and I"ve been 2 hours away this entire time in Zhongshan. I'm also in China on business. Wish I would have known. Would have given you my China cell # to give you some tips and pointers when dealing with people here. It can be a challenge being on your own and not speaking a word of mandarin or cantonese. Glad you had a good and successful time.

Hey Boss, The one I posted above was sold by a good friend of mine. He told me he got the asking price and it was sold to a bloke in th UK. There is also another one for sale currently on another forum that has an asking price of $2850 with the original box and the solid ends tudor bracelet. That is a fair price for that one and the condition and would be the same for the one you posted. Don't pay more then 3k though as that is over priced currently. Once Tudor is reintroduced in the US I see the possibility of the prices going higher considering they are more rare then their Rolex brethren but that's a few years from now.

Snowflake subs are known to have dials age at a different rate then the hands. It is not uncommon to find this on the ones that have not had any water intrusion. Typically when you see the VERY aged tritium and some issues with the text that at some point, there was moisture intrusion in the case. Looking at that one I see a very good example. If you pay over $3000 though, you are paying too much. This one sold almost 2 weeks ago for $2350 with relumed hands and no bracelet. I paid less then $3000 in June for mine which was serviced at the RSC in May with a complete spa treatment including service dial, hands, insert, new bezel, new bracelet and new crystal.

Red, You have to use a real crown tube as well to get the crown to work. I had to do the same thing. I can check if a real Tudor caseback fits an MBW case when I return to the States. I'm in China till the 14th.

Only way I know of is to put the thing in a UV tester. We have one at work and I played around with a dial. It shoots concentrated UV at an object so that it simulates years of use but in a matter of days. Leave it in for 7 days and you have the same effect of IIRC, 25 years. Turned out ok. I'll try and do another one and show the results.