POTR

Ah yes... good to see you Ryy... quit hiding so much, I miss seeing you around... that being said... allow me to slap you around a bit... The solution you pose is interesting, but still suffers from many of the same problems as the current situation. It may provide a veneer of legitimacy, but at best it is simply a portfolio for the modder. With your solution, the modder (good or bad) has control of the watch, the money and the production and publication of "the evidence." With this, who can be assured that the "before" pics aren't "after the modder scratched the hell out of it trying to open it" or "after the modder dropped the movement" pics? Photography skills vary... and before and after photos from separate sources would also be problematic... especially for more meek owners that don't wish to open up their watches (which is why they are using modders in the first place). I do think that modders should be backing up their offerings with a demonstrable portfolio, however, the internet being what it is, and human nature being what it is, the ease of availability of "content" makes the probability of a forged portfolio high. Being fair, this solution doesn't stop dishonest clients from misrepresenting "before-before" and "after-after" pictures of their watches either. Any hope of mutually satisfactory mediation is near nil, as the modder will already have had the watch and the money... Short of a "full service" two-way escrow service, run by people that can fairly critique the product... there really isn't a way to be entirely fair. Since no one would want to sit in that unenviable position... We are left with modder's posting pics of what is hopefully their work, clients hopefully being completely open in complaining if they get back something sub-par, the community as a whole half heartedly debating the merits of both sides of the argument, and most of the noobs won't read it, and some of the regular old pro members will miss it, and someone will still get suckered and come back complaining, completing the circle and ripping open the old wound ...

Sounds like the perfect opportunity for an artisan escrow service. Escrow accepts money and watch from client, examines interior and exterior of watch, documenting any existing problems, forwards watch to chosen modder, who performs services requested and ships back to escrow, who examines watch again evaluating for correction of problems and/ or completion of modifications, and sends completed watch back to client, and money on to modder, if the service is up to par, or sits as arbitrator to assist in negotiation of settlement if services are deemed sub-par. But who would want to sit in THAT "hot seat?"

I personally can't see tearing apart a $3500 Gen to rep something else... even if I only paid $50 for it... of course, re-selling it for closer to the normal price and buying the movement from another source would make at least two people happy and probably leave some extra money in my pocket...

I, for one, would be interested in reading your paper, and wish you luck with your professors in your defense of your dissertation.

Thanks Shundi. I shall look forward to visiting them again in your wrist checks, and it is my hope you will enjoy them for a long time to come.

The stem collar and surrounding looks correct to me... But I don't have one in front of me to compare...

Probably from the crown tube, when you removed the crown to take the movement out... If you don't pull the crown and stem straight out, it can drag the gasket out of the tube. I've got some of those stored in a plastic box, stacked on a Safety Pin to make it easier to pick them up...

Here's another new shot... similar to the earlier one... But these might be better to compare.... Hint: The difference is about 1mm....

Still the Ugly Sub... It is still evolving, trying to figure out what it shall become... Notice anything different today?

Gee.. I know someone with a Genuine Vintage Glashutte for sale... Gold with a brown leather strap.. hmm... But either of those other recommendations is nice too...

Fake. The guy who got the deal of a lifetime is the guy who left his fingerprints all over the hands.

"What do you mean that masked hooker we shared last night was my sister? I don't have a sister! There's just me and my bro..oh!"

우스운 이야기Gavi-ni.

Come over this way Victoria, and I shall, very thoroughly, compliment every watch in your inventory... one at a time.

Grabbing a wrist for a closer look at a old "veteran military" looking watch can be hazardous... ...especially when said wrist and watch are attached to an old veteran... ...in this situation, the SPLIT-SECOND RULE applies...

OK, $15K is cheap, definitely 1953, the serial is 73XXXX, and the crown is the only thing newer, but not by too much, except now you've added a bracelet and end pieces to the mix... and the bracelet and end pieces are wrong.. (the original x80's left their wear marks deeply on this one...) WhadduIwin?

Funny, and I could see how it might be accused of being educational... What does that movement look like today?

I only have one more question? And I am pretty sure I know the answer already... A260 or A296? I gonna guess early 1953 with an A260, and since that was a confusing year the serial could be either between 116XXX and 132XXX, OR between 84XXXX and 94XXXX... or...

Ok... still wearin' this...

Interesting TOG... The bezel is nice, the insert really doesn't look that bad... (early/contract/proto?)... Swiss - T<25 is correct... I seem to recall seeing a "silver" dial and hands TOG, but it was "pencil-style" hands with the bubble on the end of the seconds hand... crown should be Twin-lock, but looks to be later with the smaller coronet... now that we've been introduced, can we take a peek between the lugs and see some of that bubble back now? Should be easy since it's missing my favorite bracelet.

Looks Gen, but definitely not "Mint" it is scratched all over...

Still wearing the 'ugly sub'...

Haven't been wearing one for a while... Now I am since I felt like I needed a smile...

I would unscrew the back, take the rotor off carefully, and make sure there isn't anything underneath it keeping it from being fastened tightly (like a metal shaving), check for obvious places where it had rubbed... then if all is well and there are no other obvious issues, carefully place the rotor back on, screw it down firmly (not too hard), clean up the case back, blow it out quickly with a bulb, screw the caseback back on. Wear white gloves or finger cots while handling your parts...

Sounds like it is binding on something... maybe the rotor is not attached properly (tilted) OR one of the movement clips/screws is setting high?