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Hey all, Looking for a blue insert for this guy: http://www.perfectxclones.com/p6676/Rolex-RLSV10024-Vintage-50s-James-Bond-Sub-6205-SS/Nato-Blk-A-2836/product_info.html (Yes, this is not the real perfectclones website. Just using it for reference) Any help would be awesome, thanks!

I have recently put up for sale a genuine Precision Explorer case, and I am amazed to see how unknown this watch is. Underappreciated, that what it is, and only because it is 2mm smaller than her famous sisters. But the Precision Explorer is also dramatically cheaper !!! So for a 2 millimeter difference people won't go for this one, when it is the best value you can get - if you want to go all gen - for a 60's or 70's sports Rolex priced below 2.000 euros. I have a 19 cm wrist, and I wanted to share how I wear it. I took some pics beside a small selection of other Rolex watches I have to show there isn't much difference actually. And I also took some wrist shots of course... Note that I am also a Panerai enthusiast, and that I wear well extra large watches... I'd say the Precision Explorer is somewhere between the reverso and the modern Rolex: the slightly smaller size confers it a very elegant aspect that I appreciate very much for it to be different from what the mass wants today ! Hope that small topic can awaken some interest for that god forsaken Rolex. Cheers !!!

I'm a first time buyer of Rep watches, however I do have a Gen Rolex Submariner. Cane anyone help me in regards to a Rep Yacht Master? There seem to be so many sites out there and different price ranges, which site is the best and obviously has the best Rep Yacht Master?

I owned a gen GMT2C and traded it in (+cash) to get my gen AP Panda...since then, I have regretted it. Now I have 3 GMT2C reps and they are scary close to gens. ICHS aside, not too many people can call you out. Great watch both gen and rep to buy. My Gen (now Sold)

I want to swap out the rolex dial in my James bond Rolex sub 6205 with a tudor dial. I'd also like to replace the bezel with an aftermarket one (still debating on whether I want a blue bezel or 'red triangle' bezel). I have collected a series of links (the first 2 being what I'd like it to look like after the swap/s + dial/hands aging, and the below are the possible insert and dial 'donors'). Would the dial & bezel fit on this? Also, which dealer should I contact to JUST get the dial from? Mary (watches international)? What I'd like it to look like: http://www.tudorcollector.com/index....&id=9&Itemid=4 or http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/2xredt-1.jpg The watch: http://www.perfectxclones.com/p6676/...duct_info.html The possible dial: http://puretime.co/product/vintage-t...ume-dial-a21j/ The possible bezel/s: http://www.classicwatchparts.com/cat...cntr3uukrrppu2 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bond-Submari...#ht_1383wt_759

Hello to all. I got the replica bug sometime back, a few weeks ago. I've become mostly confused about how to determine which of the many, many sites that sell replicas are reliable. I have pretty much settled on buying a Rolex for my first purchase. I checked the pinned threads for the noobs but since the links and guides there lead only to 404-type errors, I have not learned anything yet. I have learned that most folks on this forum seem to appreciate the service and quality they got from Perfect-Clones. But there must be others. One google search led me to amatory-store.net. Their presentation and descriptions seemed quite good. But, where can I find reviews about them? It seems very overwhelming to be able to pick out a good, safe source. Also, I notice how some members refer to suppliers by their first names, i.e, Josh. is that the contact at one of the web sites? How do I get in contact with these folks? Thanks

Hi you can tell me the best replica rolex datejust 31mm steel? Where can I buy it? Greetings and thanks.

Hey guys, I have a few reps now and I've been looking into getting a Rolex Day-Date II Rep. I was wondering for those of you who own them, which ones are the most accurate to their genuine counterpart out of the box?

Hi I'll introduce myself properly shortly and give a full breakdown of my watch box in due course! Suffice to say that I've been watching from the shadows on here for a while, muddling along with my own projects with the help of a very friendly and capable watchmaker. However, now we've hit a wall and could really use some help! We've been attempting to build a 5500 Explorer Franken from the following parts: - Gen 15000 Case / Back / Bezel - Gen Crown / Tube - Tropic 13 Crystal (slightly loose fit, but closet I could find - needed a bit of glue to keep it in place) - ETA 2824 Movement - Yuki 5500 Explorer dial (with feet removed) - Yuki ETA Hands - Raffles Time No. 2 Movement Ring Now all has gone together just fine so far, with the exception of the last item (the movement ring). The ring fits the case and ETA movement perfectly, but there doesn't seem to be anything for the case clamps to fit onto (i.e. there is no groove in the case). It looks like the original movement (3035) fits in the case with no movement ring, and that the screws on the movement holds into the case thread. Not sure what to do next - ideally looking for a DIY solution that doesn't involve lots of specialised machining! Has any one else succeed in one of these builds? Would one of Stilty's rings work better that the Raffles version? Apologies to arrive with lots of questions... Any suggestions gratefully received...

I want to buy Rolex Rolex Sub 16610LN with Gen (or looks like gen) blue lume markers & Watch Case Engravings ??? I want to have the best rolex replica (under 1000$), who can help me? Sub=(Dial & Hands, Bracelet, Black Ceramic Bezel, Watch Case Engravings, Gen Spec Crystal, Best Movement & other)

I think I've finally got together the money for a decent MBW case, gilt dial 5512/13. Unfortunately, the only one I've ever seen for sale was sold before I could afford it. I suppose the best way now, is to get a modded MBW 5512/13 and have the dial installed myself. First of all, if anyone has a gilt 5512 or 5513, let's see some pics! I don't see enough of them around, and I need some incentive to do this. Also, I was wondering if the Ingod dials fit in any MBW cases properly, or if I'd need to have the case bored out somehow. I've heard of people filing down dials too? Is that do-able? Of course the feet would need to be clipped to glue the dial onto a 2836 movement, but that's not a big deal. So is the dial installation generally easy? Or will it be expensive or difficult for me to get done?

Alright, im in the process of installing a gen tube into a cartel 5512 case. How hard is it to redrill and retap correctly? What drill size and tap size is used for the 7030? Is there anyone in EU who could do this installation if i send my parts to the person? Regards

It's a rainy day and I'm playing with my toys (Eos 600D, Photoshop, watches). Hope you like it! Datejust 16200 Submariner 14060M Front facing with reflections Side view Tudor Heritage Monte Carlo Homage Grey Dial And at last, but not least Omega SMP 2531.80 Enjoy!

New Pro Hunter Sub from Josh - ETA movement. Thoughts? Pretty pleased with it although it's a bit loose on my wrist!

Hey guys! Completely new to the forums and new to the whole replica watch scene. I'm thinking about buying a Rolex Milgauss from Andrew and was wondering which movement I should get it in, Asian ETA 2836-2 or Swiss ETA 2836-2. Thanks!

Hi guys Just finished stage 2 of my 5513 modding project and wanted to share some pics of it so far. You might recall, i received this 5513 from Josh a few weeks ago. It's the much loved $118 watch that is such good value for money!! Here it is fresh out the box... Anyway, after changing the crystal to a domed tropic, and also aging the bezel insert, it now looked like this - which was Stage 1 complete! So, although i was really happy with these mods, i still had a number of things that needed doing to this one to make it as good as it could possibly be (within a very limited budget i might add!) The more i looked at the stubby CG's and the large crown, the more i realised it wasn' like the gen at all. Being on a limited budget, i didn't really want to have the added expense of purchasing a Gen crown/tube as i would also need to buy the tube instalation tool as well. So i decided to have a go at reducing the existing crown in size and also re-shaping and softening the case and re-shaping the CG's. I also ended up changing the crystal to a flatter Tropic as well - don't know why, i just prefer this one! Anyway, here is the watch before any case or crown work. And a similar shot after the crown reduction and re-shape..... While i had the tools out, i also re-drilled the lug holes to accept Gen bars..... Again, this is the first real mod work i have attemped on a Rep, and while it's not perfect, i think it was a few hours well spent in terms of what it adds to the watch. I suppose this all pretty subjective - one man's poison and all that - but IMO it is well worth the time and effort. Here is a comparison shot of the modded 5513 case on the right and a standard Josh Unmodded case of the left..... When put side by side like this, it becomes more obvious! Some more comparisons of the case softening and re-shape. So that is it done for the meantime............i think what will be the final stage 3 is to re-lume the dial and also the pearl, and then it'll be complete! In the meantime, going to wear and enjoy this one for a while i think! Thanks for looking guys!

Hi Guys Just wanted to share my latest piece that arrived in the post just the other day! It's a Rolex 5513 from Josh (Perfect Clones). This is the $118 Asian 21J version. Seems like a very popular watch around here, and to be honest, i can clearly see why. When it arrived, it looked a little too "Perfect" for my liking. I had thought this would be my first Rolex Mod project, so i was planning some light mods to start off with. This is it, pretty much straight out of the box and into the garden for some pics! In amongst my list of mods i wanted to carry out on this one were: 1) Crystal change. 2) Insert aging 3) New crown and tube 4) Case & CG Re-shaping 5) Re-drill spring bar holes 6) Bracelet oiling I have a new crown tube on order and i am trying to track down a nice Gen crown. This is the stock "superdome" crystal that comes with it...... While some may like this look, i thought it was really spoiling the overall look of the watch, so i decided to change that first. I just think the crystal is way too domed! In went a new domed Acrylic (though not quite as domed as the superdome!!). I put in a crystal that already had some "WABI" so i could try for the vintage "lived in" look! Then i faded the insert in some neat bleach and reassembled the watch. The stock bracelet, while good enough, was a little stiff and squeeky. Just didn't feel right, if you know what i mean. So after aquiring some good quality sewing machine oil (thanks to By-Tor for the tip) i gave it a good soak overnight and it came out like a different bracelet! Feels completely different - better quality, more luxurious on the wrist. No more squeeks or stiffness in the links! I am still awaiting some different sandpaper grades, so unfortunately, the case and CG re-shape with have to wait for now. This is how it looks now..... So there we have it! First mods of any kind i have done on a rep. I think i may have overdone the amount of time the insert was in the bleach, but the more i look at it, the more i like it!! Now just waiting for my parts to arrived so i can have a go at the CG's and case and looking out for a nice 703 Gen crown! Thanks for looking!

I'm thinking about an early 16610 project, does anyone make a decent 93150 rep bracelet?

Hey Guys and Gals, New to the forums here. My pops just got back from Thailand and brought me back some watches. Here is one of them, the Rolex Milgauss GV rep. Let me know what you guys think and how he did. Not bad for $50 is my guess! -Dan

Not too sure if this is the correct section to post..but Mods, if you think it should belong elsewhere, please go ahead and move it..Thanks! Just recently modded my Noobmariner (thanks Narikka!) and thought I'll post up this simple mod for all members who want to improve the appearance of their Noob Subs.. This tutorial covers only the modding of the pearl..The rest of the other mods have been mentioned and can be found in the beginning of my pictorial review:http://www.rwg.cc/to...ck-from-narikaa I did some research and found from members' inputs that certain types of clear epoxy turn yellow after a year or so. Thing is once the epoxy is cured, it will be very difficult to remove and apply another layer to the existing pearl. Only solutions are to (i) pop the pearl out and change to a WM pearl or any other pearl available in the market OR (ii) live with the yellowed pearl. I can't recall exactly where I saw the tutorial that used GS Hypo Cement as a lume binder but it struck me whilst modding my Noob that it could act as a 'fix' for the pearl.. I mean, GS Hypo cement cures crystal clear and is used for model cars and on clear plastic parts. "This could actually work out pretty well!", I thought out loud. So to put theory to the test, I went ahead and did the mod..First few times were quite bad but as my hands got steadier and I got a better feel of how much 'glue' to use, the pearl got a much better shape and clarity.. This is one of the first few attempts..see that the pearl is slightly deformed and 'glue' spilling over onto the metal rims of the 'cup'.. Then it became better.. And now this is what is on my Noob Sub.. Ok back to the tutorial, first we start off with the necessary tools; Some inserts, a 3x Magnifier, a LED torchlight, GS Hypo Cement, Paper.. I like using GS Hypo Cement mainly because of the fine applicator tip..it is fine enough to fill the pearl..Another plus point is that GS Hypo cleans off easily using rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover (light acetone) with no marks remaining on the surface.. And an entire tube should last you for like ever and ever.. GS Hypo cement becomes sticky in about 10-15mins after application and will partially cure within the hour..Best results will be seen only after 24hours.. The pictures below will give you an idea of what needs to be done: 1. Let some of the 'cement' form at the tip of the applicator, like a water droplet.. 2. Make sure to do some 'practice runs' before actually applying to the pearl/insert 3. This is where the LED torchlight becomes handy (Mine comes with both White and UV LEDs)..Shine onto the pearl and make sure that there is no dust particles on it..Some Rodico putty or a Dust blower can be used here.. Ensure you are comfortable applying the 'cement'..This shows the 'cement' after it has been applied to the pearl/insert..you can see that it is sitting quite high..once the 'glue' cures, it will sit a lot lower.. I use the UV LED to shine onto the pearl to see if I covered the entire pearl.. One more check in natural lighting..All looks good.. Now we just sit, wait and let the 'glue' cure and dry.. MOD DONE! Did I mention that this was REALLY simple? Word of Caution: You do NOT want this to happen to the pearl..As shown in the pics below, there are 2 small air bubbles trapped in the 'cement'..this is unsightly and will have to be removed.. "How to?", you ask..well very very simple..find a needle or pin and lightly poke at it.. The dried 'cement' should come off very easily like a clear 'film' and no sticky residue.. Once removed, repeat the above steps again until u achieve the "Pearl of your dreams".. To end off this tutorial, here's a lume shot of the modded pearl.. Go nuts on this..and oh, any feedback/comments will be much appreciated..

In regards to replacing the bezel on a Rolex 16710 from a Coke insert to a Pepsi insert, what are the risks or differences for replacing the insert as compared to a gen? I understand with the GEN Subs and GMT-Masters it is a matter of prying off the bottle cap bezel and it simply pops off, I understand there is little quality control with rep timepieces so, has anyone ran into any differences with replacing their bezel inserts compared to a gen, or is the process pretty much standard to the design? Thanks.

Hi guys! Today I’ll be reviewing the Rolex Deep Sea Sea Dweller (DSSD) Ultimate. I want to preface this review by saying that this is my first review on this forum. I’m a relative newbie when it comes to reps, but I have been a lover of fine watches for many many years. Being new to this there may be things I fail to cover or simply do not know, so please don’t hesitate to ask me other questions. And I am always open to suggestions on how to make my reviews better and more valuable to others. Background: I am not a Rolex enthusiast. In fact, I don’t care for the looks of most models of Rolex watches. There are a very few of them that I like, but the DSSD is certainly one of them. I love the look of this watch. It’s hard to pick out exactly what it is that makes me like this model when I do not like most Rolex watches. The ceramic bezel, the caseback, the rehaut and the face are some of the things I like most about it. I have never seen the gen of this watch in person, so my only comparison to the real thing is through photos and YouTube videos. The Dealer: I purchased this watch from Andrew at Trusty Time. He has been outstanding to work with and I plan on leaving a thorough review of my experience with him on his section of this forum later today. Please check it out if you plan to purchase from him. Here is the link to the watch I purchased: http://www.yourtrust...roducts_id=6579 This is the detailed description of the watch copied from the website: ROLSD017 - Deep Sea Dweller SS Blk Asia 3135 Ult V The Ultimate Version of DeepSea ...Same Deep rehaut as Genuine. Crisp Engraving within Lugs, Excellent Pearl and Lume on Dial... Correct 10 on bezel.....Updated Bevelled Edge Date Window....Parts interchangeable (Except Dial and Movt) interchangeable with the Genuine. Made with a Genuine watch as Sample... MOVEMENT: Swiss Eta 2836-2 Movt CASE DIAMETER: 43mm THICKNESS: 17.5mm DIAL COLOR: Black Dial, White Dot Markers, Blue Lume on hour markers and needles and Bezel Pearl. CASE MATERIAL: Solid 316F Stainless Steel BRACELET: SS Oyster Brushed Bracelet with New Design Divers Extension FRONT GLASS: Dome Sapphire crystal BACK GLASS: Solid case back with Titanium Seal, 2 piece case back BEZEL: Full Ceramic Bezel With sandwich numeral insert (modded to Correct "10", bezel RLACC01001, maintaining the Ultimate V's Pearl). Unidirectional rotating Bezel. HACK MOVEMENT: Yes CLASP TYPE: Flip Lock DATE INDICATOR: At 3:00 position (set via crown, beveled edge date window) OTHER REMARKS: Close 6 and 9, one-piece screw down crown with o-ring with thick crown tube (same size as genuine). M Serial numbers and model numbers between lug and rehaut. Waterproof from factory to 5 atm...50m Ordering/Shipping: I ordered this watch (along with a Panerai reviewed elsewhere) on Jan 13th through Andrew’s website. I received a confirmation email immediately. I received QC photos on Jan 15th. The watch arrived on Jan 28th but it had spent a full 5 days in the possession of customs at JFK, so taking out that delay the order-to-receipt time was 10 days which I consider to be excellent processing time from China to the US. The watches came well packaged. Each had a rubber bezel/case guard, was wrapped in thin plastic sheet, then folded up in a lot of bubble wrap and placed inside a thick Styrofoam box. The Styrofoam box was shipped in a standard cardboard box. You could drop this package off a 10 story building and the watches would be fine. First Impression: Talking the watch out, I carefully cut away the plastic film and removed the rubber bezel guard. I was amazed at how nice this watch looked in my hand. The quality of the appearance, and the fit-and-finish of this watch was way better than website photos or QC pictures could represent. This is a beautiful watch. I find myself sitting there like an idiot just staring at it. The watch is heavy and has a very solid feel to it, which I like very much. The top of the case and bracelet are brushed while the sides are polished. This contrast gives it a nice, quality appearance. The ceramic bezel is gorgeous. It is very shiny and the numbers and hash marks are crisp and clean. The case back is awesome and is one of the reasons I bought this watch. I thought that maybe the titanium alloy back would look cheesy in person, but I was wrong. It looks very cool. The band also looks very good. All of the links swivel nice and freely without having a loose feel to them. The Solid End Links (SEL) fit nicely into the case. The clasp works well and is easy to operate and adjust, but this is the first place I noticed a slight lack in quality. More on that later. Here's some photos: Further Investigation: The Crown - The first rep I purchased had a serious issue with the crown and the stem not engaging the movement correctly, so I had to send it back. So the first thing I did was to pull the crown out and test it. The crown unscrewed from the case very smoothly, and had a very solid feel. The crown pulled out nicely and had a nice tactile “click” at each position. Manually winding the watch (in the first position) is smooth with a nice resistance to it. Setting the date (with the second position) was also very nice with each day clicking by with a little snap at each change. The hands also operate very smoothly and without any slop when adjusting the time (at the third position). The Rolex Crown emblem (I think there’s another name for this, but I can’t think of it) looks good on the tip of the crown, and the grooves around the side of the crown are crisp and nicely machined. The Bezel - I then checked the operation of the bezel. It turns nicely without the very stiff resistance I’ve felt on other bezels. Not too tight, but not too loose. The clicking sound as you turn the bezel is also nice. I know it sounds strange, but I’ve turned some bezels and the clicking sounds hollow and tinny which gives an impression of cheapness. This bezel does not have that. The ceramic on the bezel is a deep polished black with a very high-gloss shine to it. I was concerned about the numbers on the bezel looking sloppy on the edges where the white meets the black, but with the naked eye, they are razor sharp. I’ve noticed that some pictures that are blown up very close will show some very slight irregularities, but this cannot be seen with the naked eye. The pearl also looks well constructed. It is perfectly centered in the triangle at the top of the bezel. It is raised with a tiny steel tube and filled with the lume. The top of the lume is rounded and polished and despite its tiny size, looks well made. The grooves around the outside of the bezel are also very nice. I will admit that this is one area I can tell the different between the rep and the gen. The gen’s grooves seem to be more precisely machined with sharper edges. However, in person they are so small that I think it would be very difficult to tell the difference without a loupe. With a high-res photo comparison, this will be one of the parts in which you can see a difference. The Case Back – Like I’ve mentioned, this is one of the things I really like about this watch. The dark titanium alloy back is held to the case with a stainless steel ring. It has a unique look that I’ve not seen on any other watch. The ring has engravings along the edge with “ROLEX OYSTER DEEPSEA – SEA-DWELLER 12800 ft = 3900m” written on it. The engraving is relatively deep and black in color. I don’t know how accurate the font is to the gen but it is crisp and spaced evenly between the edges. The grooves around the bottom edge of the ring are sharp and look well machined. The Bracelet – Like I mentioned earlier, the bracelet is brushed on the top and bottom and polished along the edges. It has nice quality feel to it. There are small screws holding the removable links vice pins, which made sizing the bracelet very easy. I was very careful in removing the pins because I didn’t know what the quality would be like. But when they were out I took a good look at them and they appeared to be solid and well made. The bracelet on the wrist is very comfortable and did not pluck the hairs off my arm like so many other watches do. The Clasp – The clasp on the DSSD is very cool. It folds down on itself and secures with an authoritative snap. Then a smaller clasp folds over the edge of that one to hold everything secure. On mine, this second clasp has a slight defect as can be seen in the photo. The top right arm of the clasp is bent slightly outward and leaves a small gap from the edge of the larger clasp. I think that I could probably wrap it in cloth and tap it lightly back in place with a hammer, but right now it doesn’t bother me very much. I also don’t want to risk damaging it so that it doesn’t work. If anyone has had experience with anything like this before, I’d appreciate your advice! This clasp has a very cool “Glidelock” feature where you pull out the top of the clasp and pull the end of the bracelet in and out for fine adjustment by 1.8mm lengths. Pushing it back down engages teeth in the clasp that holds everything steady. It works very well. It is designed for divers to quickly adjust to the thickness of a wetsuit sleeve, but it also works extremely well to fine tune the precise fit of the bracelet. The very edges of this “glidelock” clasp are not machined very precisely and have a sloppy edge to it. This would be extremely hard for anyone who is not specifically looking for it to notice. The fold out parts of the clasp is probably the one area of this rep that I think could be improved. The build quality is fine, but the printing of the Rolex emblem looks very cheap. You can judge for yourself in the photos. This concerns me very little because the only way anyone would ever see them is if I removed the watch and handed it to someone to inspect. Even then, I’m not sure it’s bad enough to immediately draw attention to it. The Crystal – The crystal looks beautiful. It is not as “domed” as I had anticipated, but it is slightly domed when looking at it from the side. Visually, the crystal sits perfectly. However, if you run your finger around the edge of the crystal (where it meets the bezel) it is not seated exactly flush. I had heard that this was common with this rep, so I was looking for it. Had I not read about it, I may have never noticed. I think that this might be able to be fixed with a case press, but that’s just a guess. Anyone else who’d like to chime in on this, please do. I may try to fix it in the future but as it is now, no one would ever notice this in a million years. Before I received this watch there was some question of whether the rep or the gen had the small “Rolex Crown” etching on the crystal. Well I’m here to clear that up. They both do. It is very, very difficult to see with the naked eye, but if you hold a powerful flashlight at the right angle, it’s there. I managed to catch it in one of the photos. It’s hard to see, but when you can see it, it looks well done. The Face – The face of this watch is gorgeous. It’s very simple which I like. I’m no expert, but everything looks nicely aligned and positioned. I cannot speak to the accuracy of the fonts, but the quality is excellent. Everything is crisp and clear. The lume has a nice blue color when freshly charged, but is not very bright. There are really three levels of brightness on the lume of this watch. The brightest is the hour markers, then the hands, then the pearl. I charged the lume with an extremely powerful aviation flashlight (185 lumens) for 30 seconds. The hour markers were adequately bright and the hands were also adequate but noticeably dimmer than the hour marker. The pearl was barely lit at all. If you wanted to mod this watch, I would say the lume is the first place to start. However for me, it’s not that much of an issue. I will probably leave it as is for some time. The lume also dims down to nothing within about 30 mins. My attempt at the lume shot (I need to get better at these!) The Fit – I have exactly a 7” wrist. I’m not sure how that fits in to the world-wide average, but I feel my wrist is average to slightly below average. The watch looks very well proportioned on the wrist to me. Unlike some of the larger watches such as U-Boat and Panerai, I would imagine that just about anyone could wear this watch without it looking too big in diameter. I will say that the watch is fairly thick and if anything, the watch sits up high off your wrist. But it’s no show stopper. You’d have to be analyzing it to notice this fact. Conclusion: I spent $408USD on this watch. Considering the gen costs more than $10,000USD I’d say I hit a gold mine! I’ve heard that Rolex watches are among the most widely (and cheaply) repped watches around. Even people with gen watches are constantly asked if their watch is real. However, this watch screams quality. I think just about anyone who wasn’t a Rolex enthusiast or AD who took a close look at this watch would have to determine it was real. The watch is absolutely beautiful. The things about it that are not accurate are so minor that they almost don’t warrant notice. I am very happy with this purchase, and very happy with my experience so far with Andrew at Trusty Time (www.yourtrustytime.com). Again, if there’s anything in my review that wasn’t clear or if you have any additional questions I can answer, don’t hesitate to ask. I hope you've all found this review informative and helpful!

The gen has the blue masking tape on the cushion or always on the left/top. Gen like quality of the rep will be judged from 1-10 (10 being like gen). Notice that this rating CHANGES based on the pictures being compared since the differences may or may not be spotted at another set of comparison shots. The gen used in the comparison is a random serial number model. The rep used is from Timesshop (Mark). It is from the noob factory. This particular one has the A2836 movement. Larger size pictures available in album The comparison is broken down into components of the watch. Case/Bezel Front Elements/Dial Bracelet/Clasp Backside/SEL Fitment Feel in Hand Feel on Wrist Movement Adjustments Suggested Improvements Case/Bezel: 1. Front - Overall:Dial: 9 - Dial maker surroundings being thicker and uneven lume Hands: 8 - all hands are noticeably skinner on the gen; makes it appear longer but actually same lengths Bezel: 8.5 - Gen's engraving is a bit deeper and the color is slightly silver. Rep and gen has 24 clicks but the gen adjustments are consistent through-out. Gen is also quieter when adjusting. My rep had a 1/3 minute of free play. SEL: 8 (the gen SELs sit more flush with the case). Crown Guard: 7.5 (noticeably rounder on the rep, sharp straight edges on the gen) 2. Bezel Edge (close up): You can see the gen has slightly polished teeth while the rep is simply raw (drilled) finish. When you run your fingers over the teeth, the rep is slightly smooth whereas the gen is pointy. 3. Bezel Engraving (close up): Here you can see the differences not only in depth and width of the engraving but also the style of font (notice the 1 has a curved top on the gen and the 8 is slightly more squared). The picture does not show this, but the color is slightly different on the gen; since the gen's numbers are colored with platinum its slightly gray (especially on the triangle). 4. Side: Side: 8 - Overall same dimension but the ends are not as sharp, the gen is quite pointy Crown: 8 - Very good overall, dimension appears to be the same, again sharper teeth on the gen. Front Elements/Dial: 5. Crystal and Bezel (6 inches from watch): Cyclops: 5 Obviously no AR on the rep, also the rep seems to magnify too much... there's a lot more distortion in the magnification on the rep. Rehaut engraving: 8.5 - Sharper and deeper on the gen, of course its aligned perfectly on the gen, reps may have a good alignment of rehaut Crystal: 9 - The crystal on the gen has a slightly polished edge giving it a more defined look. Notice that the gen has more spacing between the crystal and the inner edge of the bezel. The laser etched logo on the rep is too big; you can barely see it with the naked eye on the gen. The logo is drawn by dots on the gen rather than straight lines on the rep. 6. Dial and Hands Printing: 8 - The "GMT - MASTER II" printing on the rep is slightly darker and spacing is a bit off from gen, the print also looks 3d on the gen rather than flat on the rep. Overall font size and color (on the white wording) is quite good. The hole in the coronet is noticeably bigger in the rep. Indexes: 8 - quite good from this view, aside from having slightly thicker surrounds the lume is not as applied as evenly as the gen. you can also see the gen has a much more polished look, the rep has more sharper corners at 6 and 9; the triangle index is the biggest difference between the watches here (due to the application of the lume) Hour Hand: 7.5 - appears to have the same length as gen, but is slightly fatter. the triangle is also larger on the rep; edges are not as clean) Minute Hand: 8.5 - appears to have the same length as gen, but is slightly fatter than gen. Again, edges are not as clean as gen Second Hand: 9 - the hands on the rep is a bit thicker than the gen; especially towards the outside edge. The gen hands has a slightly tapered appearance GMT Hand: 8 - color is quite close in the rep, but the paint/print is completely different than gen. on the gen you can see the paint is thick and is slightly raised, the rep appears flat; triangle is almost identical; ever so slightly thicker around the lume for the rep. This rep has the ICHS but that is hardly ever noticeable; I bet 8/10 gen owners would not know if the GMT hand sits above or below the hour hand... 7. Cyclops and Date wheel Cyclops: 5 - obviously no AR on the rep, but this can be modded. The magnification is higher on the rep. You can also notice more distortion in the magnification. The gen's magnified date still retains the rectangular appearance. Date Wheel: 6 - The date wheel on the rep is completely different specially the number 1. On the gen, the number 1 is more of a letter "I". You can also see 2 and 3s have tails on the gen. Other numbers are also different but 1 2 and 3 are most noticeable. Bracelet/Clasp: 8. Brushing and PCL: 9 (7.5 before custom brushing) - I polished and brushed the rep links myself. Originally the rep's brushing is much thicker than the gen. The thicker brushing gave the bracelet a brighter appearance. Polish is very similar on both models. 7. Flexibility: 6.5 - The rep's bracelet feels quite cheap when held, it rattles more than the gen. The rep bracelet has more lateral movement than gen. The gen links are held on much more tightly. 9. Clasp: 5 - This is the biggest flaw of the rep. The clasp edges are very poor compared to the gen. The coronet on the clasp has a more web like appearance on the rep. Each of the spokes on the gen's crown has more clearly defined spaces. The securing cap is also poorly defined on the rep; it is slightly rounded on the inside edge. The securing cap also does not sit flush with the rest of the clasp. 10. Clasp Adjustments/Inside: 7 - Biggest difference is the engraving inside the clasp. The rep's engraving is thin. I have also sharpied my rep, but still does not have the same appearance in color as the gen. The inside of the gen clasp is sand blasted, the rep has a smoother flat finish. The fine adjustment is there, but its much harder to adjust on the rep. I can easily move the fine adjustment on the gen. The easy link works just like gen, but does not snap in as hard. The rep also seems to scratch the PCL under the clasp more easily than the gen. Backside/SEL Fitment 11. SEL: 5 - It just looks bad on the rep, but in reality the fitment is quite secure. Although, I did modify the fitment and spring bars on the rep. The SEL also does not sit flush with the case on the rep. 12. Case Corners: 8 - This difference is rarely pointed out. On the gen the corners are pointy and sharp. The rep has more rounded corners, probably from polishing the case. 13. Case Back: 8.5 - Sharper teeth on the gen, although the rep may be sharper when new. The brushed part of the case back is smaller on the gen. 14. Backside of Crown Guard: 8 - The gen wraps the crown more than the rep, also much straighter edges than the rep. Not noticeable when worn. Feel in Hand 15. Weight: 9.5 - The rep feels about the pretty much the same as the gen. 16. Feel: 8 - The bracelet and clasp brings this down. Again the entire bracelet is nosier and feels flimsier. Perhaps tightening the permanent links would improve the bracelet feel. Feel on Wrist 17. Comfort: 9 - Rep is just as comfortable to wear. Sets and sizes the same way as the gen. Oiling the bracelet on both models benefit contributes to the comfort as well. 18. Feel: 9 - Feels the same in weight and proportion. Again the bracelet rattles with a more canny sound than the gen. Movement Adjustments The adjustments are shown below. I actually prefer the adjustment settings of the rep than the gen . It's easier to set the date and times on the rep. It has been noted that with A2836 reps, the GMT hand experiences issues. I have seen the GMT hand on my watch lag or stop moving from time to time (usually happens after infrequent use). I have not experience it stopping while being worn. Gen: Unscrewed: winding (CW) First notch: +/- hour hand (1 hour increment) +/- Date (hour hand needs to go around 24 times) (CW/CCW) Second notch: +/- Hour, GMT and minute hands (CW/CCW) Rep: Unscrewed: winding (CW) First notch: +date (CW) +GMT hand (1 hour increment) (CCW) Second notch: +/- main hour and minute (CCW/CW) Suggested Improvements Listed in order of importance: [*]Clasp - needs much more definition in the coronet and securing cap [*]Bracelet Links - needs to be tighten to lessen lateral movement [*]AR Cyclops - very obvious difference from afar [*]Crystal Beveled Edge/Spacing - very easy to spot at wrist distance, the gen crystal seems to shine around the edges [*]Date Wheel - noticeable when up close; especially number "1" [*]Bezel Engraving - more noticeable during side viewing, slightly different color on rep [*]Crown Guard - quite good at this point, but can be straighter, most of the definition of the CG is lost due to heavy polishing... [*]Bezel Edge - very noticeable difference when touched... hard to tell from afar; however the grooves between the teeth are slightly polished on the gen [*]Brushing of the Bracelet - the brushing from the factory is thicker than the gen; it actually gave the bracelet a brighter look than gen. Easy to fix with some scotch bright! Overall, the noob GMT rep is quite good. It was quite hard to tell which was the gen on certain pictures. The dial is very good on the rep as well as the case dimension and looks. The biggest downfall of the rep is the bracelet and clasp. However the AR cyclops would be a great modification as this can be a telltale sign of a rep.

I just want to stop in and say hello and to thank everyone for their reviews. As a new member here, I do appreciate the information. I just ordered my first rep Sub from Andrew @ Trusty. So far so good. Awesome follow up and customer service. I can't wait for the QC pics of the same. Hope everyone has a wonderful holiday season. Bryzen

I have an MBW 1665 great white incoming, supposedly an older variation that better accepts gen parts. I was wondering if anyone knew all the differences between the old and new MBWs. Thanks!