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I know its a little early, but that depends where you are All the very best for 2014 everyone, have a good one wherever you are, stay safe, and don't drink and drive!

HAPPY NEW YEAR to all

Happy New Year my friends!

Happy New Year to all!Eat your greens and hopping johns!

First of all a big thanks to Toro Bravo for a lightning fast delivery and smooth transaction. You can't go wrong with him and he is definitely on his way to being one of the best dealers throughout the boards. So here it is guys. My review and opinion on the new p3000 clone. I will not go into the watch itself because member Ale has done some very extensive research and has aded all the info to his 'panerai bible' so look it up. I will start with a short 'management summary' before I continue to the pictures. This movement is not based on an existing movement. It has 2 barrels and the movement design mimics the genuine p3000 design. It is however completely different. Genuine parts are absolutely not interchangeable. I have never taken apart a genuine p3000 so I can only go by internet pictures. If I would have to set my money on a manufacturer of the p3000 clone it would be the factory that produces the IWC Jones movement. In terms of finishing and design I get the same vibe. Besides both barrels the movement was oiled properly and clean. Parts were finished well according to rep standards. Some plating issues here and there and discolouration of metal. But when dealing with Chinese movements this is normal and it does not affect long term reliability. The p3000 clone was easy to take apart and is absolutely serviceable. Getting it back together is a different story. The gear train is extremely wobbly and the gear train plate very difficult to assemble. You need a special tweezer in order to reach all the gears and align them properly with the jewels. It was perhaps the hardest bridge I have ever had to install. Especially because spare parts are non existent. So if you break one little pivot say bye bye to the movement. Also because most jewel holes lay very deep it is almost impossible to see what you are doing when oiling them. Even with a 10x loupe you are almost working in the dark... But when finished this movement runs like a champ and I see no reason why it would be any less reliable than an 6497. I think this p3000 clone is on par. I can not yet comment of the power reserve as I immediately torn the movement apart to review but I suspect it will reach those 72h without a problem. The details: When I first saw the p3000 when it came out a couple of weeks ago I was very excited. The p9000 clones could not get my motor started as they did not clone any of it's functions. Only the aesthetics was looked after with some decorative plates. A pig in a dress or whatever you want to call it. But this new p3000 clone however was a whole different story. I could clearly see this was not based an existing movement (e.g. 7750/ 6497/2824 etc). So I did not hesitate and ordered one right away to review... Upon arrival I could not take my eyes from the back. The movement just looks gorgeous. Nice detail inside case back They even hid the ugly movement tabs underneath the pretty ones lol. Before taking the movement apart I put it on the timegrapher. It runs at 21.600 bph and the amplitude was ok but rate and beat were off. As this new movement has a free sprung balance (so I thought) I was a bit terrified as regulating it can be a b!tch. However upon closer inspection I noticed the rate stud hidden order the bridge. Thank god! That means the stellar screws on the balance are for show and this movement can be regulated like any other. Here you can see it more clearly with the decorative plate removed. An incabloc shock absorber which is also very reliable. Solid bridge and underside balance view. Clean "POL" engraving underneath the balance. No clue what it stands for. The oiled barrel jewels Look at the 3 layered dial!!!!!.... That will need a special canon pinion right? Huh?.. That is a deep hole. No special canon pinion but special hands. So forget replacing them.. Here you can see the base plate with the dial removed. Nicely finished and clean. No date option and a normal keyless which has some grease... Some part close ups.. Here is the barrel bridge removed. Nice and solid. The 2 barrels exposed The underside of the barrel bridge (I used foil with this movement as the brushed plates are prone to scratches) Barrel 1 (clean but not oiled) Barrel 2 (clean but not oiled) Here you can see both main springs. The barrel 2 mainspring is longer. Here is the gear train. Completely different than the gen p3000 with a aded pinion to transfer the power to the top of the movement: the canon pinion (= minute wheel) The pinion I'm talking about Other parts are also well finished Final shot on the timegrapher taken a hour ago after full service and regulation. Performing like a gen ... Here is a genuine p3000 (pictures from Google search) and you can see the similarities and differences in bridges and gears. Well that was all folks. Hope you liked the review. Based on my findings I would say the watch is definitely worth the extra $100. Although not a 100% the same in appearance and function as the p3000 it comes very close. Maybe the closest we will ever see? It is a reliable movement and it will give you that extra dimension of a genuine feeling. I'm still testing it so unfortunately I can not yet comment on the power reserve whether it actually is 72h. But I think it will come close. Tanks for reading Mark

The Black Bay pre-order (been done twice now) is full. No one has got their watch yet AFAIK. Supposedly the first batch of preorders (300) will be sent out before the CNY, I'll be posting photos when mine lands.

Yes I agree, I would stay away from gold, how about a Milgauss?

Happy New Years Everyone. Dave...

Happy new year all! Wishing a prosperous 2014 to everyone.

Im hoping for a better Royal Oak, whether a 15400 or 15300. I would love a 15202 Jumbo but the thin movement would be difficult to replicate. Other than that, maybe the Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon? Given that it only has subdials at 3 and 9 and date at 6, I feel that it is easier to replicate than the traditional Speedmaster subdial layout. I would like the Black Bay to be back in stock as well. Either way, Im hoping for a great 2014 wish the same for everyone!

Just read your super rep thread, going for a steel fish this week. Look forward to your threads. Cheers, Brad

Ok might as well join the trend switching!

Well it's New Years Day here in Oz (8:30am) so Happy New Year everybody let's all make 2014 the best year yet. Ken

Same to you mate and all our great members, here's hoping 2014 is a cracking year for all of you

Happy new year guys! Edit: I have no idea why the picture is on his side

TC V6

I agree with Indywatchguy, general consensus on the forums is to go with the Asian movement for all the reasons above. Have also just ordered the LMLE with Asian

They shouldve consulted the forums when designing this. What a wasted opportunity. Flaws aside,it's still a nice watch though. Angus's pic below. I might still buy one at some point after someone does a review. I've got a gen 2008 model, but what the hell.

Picked up a nice, gen 93250 clasp on the cheap; paid under $100 as it didn't have the diver's extension. As luck would have it, my clasp code is 'CL' (2004), which fits in with the rest of my build. I would have been happy with any clasp date, but this was just icing on the cake!

Nice overcast evening today... Good for grabbing a couple shots.

Were is 369M from?

I bought a pocket watch (knowing it was broken) because I want to be able to fix it. The movement is an EB 8800. It seems to be overwound (I know this isn't really the problem but it won't wind anymore and it's not moving. I know it's probably gummed up.. What I'm looking for, I'd like to see if any of you know how to remove the pin from it so I can take the movement out without breaking the watch. I'd like to start looking in to why it's stuck up but I can't if it's still in the case. I know it's vague but I'm TRYING to include pictures.. I don't have time to get my good cam out so I am trying to use my 10x loupe to take pics with my cell phone... They look ok but... Eh... But anyone have any idea? Thanks, Alex!