mir36

Nice work! Absolutely love old school step-by-step build threads. Congratulations!

The case is an old school MBW

Try Rafflestime for hands as well. I used them for my modern milsubC project. Note how the minutes hand does not touch the minute track. The published measurements are 8.5/12/12.5mm, which I have not verified. On my 5517, note how the minute hand (source unknown) almost touches the rehaut: Of course the 114060 and 5517 dials probably have different diameters, but I just wanted to show you how the minute hand affects the look. Hope this helps.

nice to see you again Rolf.

Yup, "high" towards the dial. The 15xx case is for a movement with date, so I knew I needed a thicker movement. I'll try it out with a 2836 later and report back. Your cases are awesome!

I actually contemplated going with a gen 15xx case, since I had one on hand. Your case on left, gen 15xx on right: I wish I took a pic of the Tonney dial inside the 15xx. It fit just fine. I just couldn't make it work because I didn't have the right movement, my 2824 didn't line up to the crown position. Any tips on what I can do with the 15xx?

Sometimes accidents work out just nicely. I was working on a 114060 build based on an old noob sub-date Vx (can't remember), removing the date function from an A2824 and re-assembling the watch. To make a long story short, i have cheap hand removers, and the seconds hand must have been on very tight on the pinion... I destroyed the seconds hand while trying to pull it off. So for now, I'm gonna live with my 'base' sub (Panerai-speak for time-pieces with only the hour and minute hands). Thanks for looking!

Nice build! This is my next project. Question to the experts on the Whoopy dial - should it stay glossy or does in need a clear flat coat?

Thanks. Glad you like it. The dial is Vietnam made. Just send Tonney a message and he should be able to source one for you. As with many projects, the end result does not adequately capture the journey (aka pain) that it took to complete it, but here's a few tips that I hope will help you: - The Tonney dial is made for a gen movement, so you'll need to clip the dial feet if using a 2824, which is preferable if using one of JMB's cases. - The JMB case's rehaut diameter is 27.26mm, while the Tonney dial's diameter 27.19mm - Whoopy's dials are made for ETA and will probably be easier to work with, if you can find them. I haven't seen a Tiffany & Co version though - To make the Tonney dial work, I had to clip the feet. I then glued it onto the 2824 dial mounting ring - sorry, I don't have a picture, but basically dial feet stickers won't work. So I used 5-minute epoxy to align the dial to the ring to the movement. In turn, after making sure the keyless worked, I epoxied the dial/ring structure to the movement. - Be careful when servicing the movement. I lost the click spring while re-building the keyless works (for the 10th time) and spent an hour flat on my floor looking for it. - I used Raffles time hands, the curved ones with white lume. Probably not period correct, but I love the contrast when I'm looking at the dial. To age the hands and match it to the aged indices, I just gave it a wash of Vallejo burnt umber acrylic paint. Worked like a charm. On to some pics... JMB Rehaut diameter: 27.26mm Tonney 1016 dial diameter: 27.19mm Whoopy Space Dweller dial: 27.97mm Whoopy 1016 dial: 28.0mm Aligning the dial to the stem: Mounting the Raffles Time hands: Dial glued to mounting ring, in-turn glued to movement, hands mounted: Now that I have my feet wet, I just need a couple more cases from Justin! Thanks for looking!

A better shot with natural lighting

Just finished this gift for the wife. Fresh off the workbench. Partlist: jmb case with all the upgrades Tonney dial raffles time hands hacking 2824 rios strap Hopefully better pics to follow in the daytime. Thanks for looking.

That came together nicely!

That's a masterpiece. Thanks for sharing the build process. Could you share the part list too, besides to Tonny case?

Love the magic you performed on the case! Any chance you can post some casework shots? Makes me wish I had a lathe.

Thank you for the clarification Bart! Congratulations on the great buy!

Thanks for sharing this Bart! A 6538 project is definitely in my future, so the review on Tonny's 6538 offering is much appreciated. Just trying to understand, the 2 different versions he offered you. So version 1, sans the crown was a lot worse compared to version 2 with the crown. Version 2 was a "complete" build - what else does it come with, besides the crown?

That's nice. Learned something new today. Added another search item to my Bay search feed.

That's a keeper for sure. PreVs have been quiet for a while. I guess folks are hoarding parts or preparing for their winter builds. So always happy to see more added to the family. Here's mine saying hello.

I use a bit of Araldite epoxy. Put a bit on the insert 'ledge' with a toothpick. Put in the insert. Scrape away any excess.

Is this tonywatch's site? I noticed he's not posting rep dials on the bay anymore. The 5517 dial advertised at the site looks very close to something I bought from him on the bay.

Thank you for all the bumps. I missed out on many of these as I was in my Panerai phase. We really need a sticky for all these build posts, each a masterclass in its own right.

Thank you so very much for this. This is exactly the info I was looking for.

What are your thoughts on the crown height position on the MBW versus the latest cartel offerings? MBW is better no? Ubi, is there an unmodified MBW case in which a 1520/1530 would fit?

Jackflash: Really love this post. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I'm actively sourcing parts for a similar build and keep coming back to this. Could you please post a profile shot of the midcase after Zocker's re-shaping?

Congratulations for the build and thank you for sharing the knowledge. Question on how you aged the dial. Looking at the macro shots, is that lacquer spackling or did you bead-blast the dial?