ceejay

Has anyone spotted the latest Aqua Terra Quartz at any of our TD's? With the waffle dial. Really took a shine to this model and fed up with hit or miss mechanicals! Had a quick search but haven't turned up anything?

I want a Tudor BB Bronze...Gen

Stick a new 2813 in, cheap as chips, no stress and will see you good for another 18-24 months...or more!

New rotor post and a good squirt of WD40...That'll run. Those Rolex movements are work horses I'll tell ya!

I'll just leave this here for the Jenny lovers, my original 1969 Jenny Caribbean 1500 😍

Make sure you know how to handle those KIF Duoshock springs on the escape wheel. Good luck!

Sorry, I didn't know that reference was to the watch not the movement calibre. You are correct though it is from the W20055D6 series Cartier. It's a ETA 2000.1 a mini version of the 2892 Here it is beside a ETA 2836 for size reference Probably one of the smallest movements I've worked on. It's all stripped down ready for cleaning, new mainspring & oscillating rotor bearing.

Nope, it’s an ETA[emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just servicing this movement and thought you guys might like to see it. Looks like a ETA 2892 doesn’t it? But it isn’t [emoji6] Anyone guess what it is?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How about 5k, 6497 powered PAM's 🤗 Form an orderly queue guys.

Done mate 👍

I'm in, cheers Boss! P.S. Invite link if anyone needs em... https://initiativeq.com/invite/SQe0jn46Q

You can put a 2836 date disk on a 2824 but cannot put a 2824 date disk on a 2836 2824 date disk part number is 2556 2836 date disk part number is 2557 There of course many variations of the two regarding date positioning on the dial, colours & languages.

The 2834 & 2836 are identical apart from, day ring, date ring (they are reversed) and a spacer ring on the 2834 taking it to 13 ligne (29mm diameter) Never seen a 2834 used in a rep though. Only ever seen 1 2834 in person.

You're very welcome guys. @Timelord No, it doesn't matter about the orientation of the When you release the tension on the spring, the gold leaver engages with the cam underneath the driving wheel and centres it automatically. Looks like your taking the correct path in progression, basic manual wind, calendar works then onto automatics. Make sure you are fully confident in one area before progressing on. Biggest mistakes I noticed when I was learning (still am after 5 years of Horology classes!) is students trying more complicated movements before they could confidently do the basics. Gear train, motion works, keyless works. Nail these & fully understand how they all interact. Good luck!

First install these 2 parts as shown. Spring hooked behind the gold lever.S Now slide the date indicator driving wheel in and underneath the intermediate driving wheel (small silver wheel at top) Now take your tweezers and insert them into 'U' shaped indent in the gold coloured lever (7 o'clock position on the driving wheel) pull down on the lever and the driving wheel should fall into place, now release the tension on your tweezers. Lastly, slide the cover plate in from the right and it will click into the post. Job done!

KIF is a Rolex designed technology of shock protection system. In the picture above it is identifiable by the shape of the retaining spring on the escape wheel (the round jewel in the top of the picture) The movement is a gen Tudor...Made by ETA 🤨

Yeah course, someone should pass the details of the person who 'allegedly' makes the best fake dials in the world to you because you want it and can't be bothered to even enter into a single conversation on this forum about your, or anyone else projects. You just want your information fed to you so you can go and annoy Ivan the Terrible with stupid questions like "how much" "when will it be ready" "where's my QC pictures" Jog on mate, this ain't the forum you've been looking for...

Your watch has a service dial fitted 👍 Nice watch 😍

Absolutely not, have you never heard of 'Ivan the Terrible'? Coincidentally, he lives up the road from me. He's only really terrible after a few drinks...

You guys 😁 He does have a web page ya know!

For me it's without doubt the 1675, early PCG model. Why? Come on, the old GMT Master is such an iconic, easy to spot, watch and yet there is no decent off the shelf model. And here lies why I would never buy a gun (apart from cost!) You see, if you truly love this watch and own the rep, you are on a seemingly never ending journey to make it 'just right' you look at it and no matter how good it is, you have put so much research into it that you know even when the tiniest detail is not right, it niggles away at you to make it better. If I bought a gen, I would not have that drive, that passion nor 'want' I fear I would become bored with it 😞 But I have an in-perfect 1675 that I built from each individual piece, sculpted the case, collected many parts from various sources battled to get them all to fit and look 'right' But alas...I have a long journey ahead of me. I LOVE IT!!

Is the lever under tension at the opposite end to the 'G' that you broke off? There is an open end 'U' shape that need to be hooked behind a little tab on the yoke beneath it.

The Tudor uses a Free-sprung, silicone balance. No clones to my knowledge use this technology (yet!) Show us a picture of the balance wheel

Also research the time period of the watch you are going to build. Difference in dials, hands & bracelets. Get it right or it stands out like a sore thumb!