ceejay

First time I've seen both those Rolexes with the Day/Date GMT (?) what are the model numbers? Modified Valjoux movements?

The Powermatic 80 has been around a few years now. It's calibre is ETA C07.111. It is a modified ETA 2824. It beats at 21,000 and is a perfect upgrade for the AP Divers movement as the Gen AP 3120 movement also beats at 21,000. 80 hr power reserve, what's not to like? They are reportedly very accurate too (think COSC spec) If you keep an eye on eBay, they can be picked up as a complete watch (Tisot) at quite reasonable prices ~£150

Has anyone who knows what they're looking at done a tear down of a broken movement yet to find out what's breaking? Just read some of that thread posted above regarding "setting" and it looks like an awful lot of them have broken!

Here's my very similar Smiths Astral Diver from the same era...

I'll pop in and let you have my thoughts when this actually effects me or any of my Horological acquaintances. Basically the same response I gave around 2 years ago when this was announced here in the UK. I think Cousins are the only one affected?

The only part likely to be making a noise is the spinning rotor for winding the watch whilst it's on your wrist. This is on the back of the movement. Unless this part has a lot of play in it and is contacting the case then it's just the bearings in the centre causing the noise. These can be lubricated, but...you have the use a very light-weight lubricant which isn't going to reduce the noise the rotor makes significantly. It should be a tiny (minuscule drop on the end of a very fine needle) on just 2 of the bearings in the centre of the rotor. If you over oil or use a thick lubricant then this will lead to trouble with friction and a build up of dirt on the bearings and eventually stop the rotor from turning efficiently. Recommended lubricant is Moebius 9010 but this is expensive. Research an alternative.

Can also be found listed as the Hattori NH35. I have a Seiko 5R-- on the bench at the moment for servicing. Unfortunately Mainspring/Barrels (they are designed to be replaced as a single unit) are not available any more, unless you want to pay a kings ransom. You can, if you're careful split the Seiko barrel and put in a generic mainspring. Probably the route I'll take. Or swap out the entire movement for a NH35. If you do this then you have to swap in the original date disk and stem/crown. The date on the NH35 is at the 3 o'clock position and the Seiko is at 4 o'clock. Another thing worth noting, the mainsprings on these run in the opposite direction to most movements.

That's easy. Without a shadow of a doubt the watch with the gen movement is the one on the errr...ummm...derrrr

Looks like a Patek Philippe 324 to me.

If you're after a pen that can write decently, I haven't found one (rep) I've had a few MB rep pens and tried all sorts of tinkering with the nibs (and inks) to try to get them to write...like a MB and failed. Mine sit in a drawer now and I use my trusty Lamy Safari's

As long as the XHamster website is up & running, I'm as happy as a pig in sh*t 😉

5 second search on eBay... https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=7750+hands&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=7750+daytona+hands&_sacat=0 You're welcome.

To see air bubbles it has to be wet testing. There are 2 types of wet testing, pressure & vacuum. Vacuum: watch is submerged in water and the air in the tank is sucked out, any leaks and you will see a stream of bubbles from the case. Pressure: watch is suspended above the water, pressure is applied to the tank, watch is submerged & then the air is gradually released. If the watch leaks air bubble will stream from the watch as the air in the chamber is gradually released. A single air bubble at 50 atmospheres could have been an air bubble trapped between the bezel/case and crystal? A certified 'leak' will produced a stream of bubbles (slow or fast) not a single bubble. If it was me, I wouldn't worry. Dive in and enjoy yourself!

Wow! and the auction house still sold it, unbelievable! I wonder what forum the watch was originally born on 😉

It’s around £45 for an ETA or £10 for a clone (eBay prices) I have no idea of compatibility between gen & clones though? It will still need regulating and putting in beat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do a search for ETA 430, this is the part number you need. You can find them on eBay or many watch part suppliers, like Cousins UK Yes... the genuine part will fit the clone!

What calibre?

https://www.subway.com/en-GB No need to thank me....

You don't have the let the power down to repair the keyless works. Movement out, hands and dial off. Away you go. Top Tip: release tension from any part before removing the screw that secures it. You can loosen screws just a little to assist with this.

Welcome! I have no idea what a a240 calibre or 616 calibre is? Give us some more info, please.

Sod that! Get a decent size external SSD drive, plug it in and boot from that. Set it up as your primary drive and never have to worry about getting inside your Mac. Good luck, mate. Hard drive failures are a real pain.

Try Timpsons, I hear they're very good 😂

Welcome to the world of the 16 year old dreamer! They want a flash watch on their wrist to impress the laYdEEz. They haven't got any money but they want that watch sooooo bad. Can you imagine the look on the laYdEEz faces when they pull up on their BMX with that Rollie dangling off their wrist....boom!! Now, their only option is to persuade Mum or Dad to borrow them the dOllaZz, but they know when they get that watch, it's got to be perfect otherwise they're going to get called out and ridiculed worse than having a 5mm penis. So they start with the questions, hundreds of questions...and they want pictures, lots of pictures and guarantees. If this deal goes [censored] up and they've spent Mum & Dads money on a crock of poo, they're in it up to their neck! So, they've finally got the deal of the century on they're dream watch and now for the easy part... "Mum can you borrow me 300 dOllaZz to but myself a Rollie"? "What do you mean, no"? "Dad, can you borrow me 300 dOllaZz to buy a Rollie, I'll, like, wash the car for a month I promise"! "No, but I've already told the guy I'm having it. Oh my God, you are so unfair, I knew you never ever loved me"! And that's wareth the story endZZ...

These are the checks you should be performing... Let down the power, carefully! Remove balance & pallets. Apply couple of turns of power from stem and observe the gear train, it should run freely and a friction-free gear train will reverse on itself slightly. So the gears will stop and reverse on themselves. If this is achieved, install pallets. Apply a few winds of power. With a loupe observe the pallets as you gently nudge them from one banking pin to the other. As you nudge them they should 'flick' to the opposite banking pin, you shouldn't have to push them across. Also, with the pallet resting against the banking pin, give them the tiniest of nudges, they should move away from the banking and be 'drawn' back to them. This shouldn't be sluggish and they should stick away from the banking pin. Once these tests are complete and successful, you have eliminated most faults in the gear train & escapement. The problem then lies within the balance. Good luck!

I have fond memories of spending a day & a bit locating all those pivots under the one plate...ahhh the good ole days 🤯