QueTip

Really a beautiful piece. Wear her in good health.

Amazing insight, thanks for that bro!

This is definitely true my friend.

Exactly what @Legend has said. Thanks for adding to my post brother.

@antotony0203 Basically.. The Mikey hands are thinner in diameter compared to the gen hands. Gen hands have a pyramid effect once stacked up. Other than that the Mikey hands are great too but obviously, the gens are more refined and better finished in general. That is real itsy bitsy though. As for the subdial hands and chrono second hand, they are 98% identical and it's not really worth going gen on them if you ask me. Gen: Mikey:

Will do. Give me a while.

Of course, I have. ?

But it's not. Only chance a 16800 could sport a 93250 is a change of the stock bracelet. It never came off factory with a 93250.

The 16610LV case is all wrong for a 16800. I don't need to compare the JF or look at pics. The only case that has the correct dimensions was the EARLY EARLY ST 3035 case, Phong or gen for obvious reasons. Dial wise, it's matte or gtfo if you ask me. There's no use in doing a 16800 build with a gloss dial. Might as well just get a TC, drill the holes and throw in a tritium dial and call it a 16610LN. Also, the gen in OPs pics should be a 168000 and not a 16800.

The 16800 I've been thinking about this for quite a while yet and thought I would do a little tutorial on 16800 builds as the one I did on the Bluesy builds. Since there are NO reps of that model, you HAVE to build it to have it. So first things first.. The 16800 Basically it is the model between the 1680 and the 16610 (168000 actually but are we counting this??) It is a pretty unpopular Rolex in collectors eyes so far but I am totally positive that will change drastically over time with the rarity of the Pallettoni dials and the special spider dials that are popping up in those pieces, there most likely is a great potential in those pieces. Improvements compared to the 1680: - Saphire Crystal -> no more acrylic - Rolex Cal 3035 -> no more 1570/5 (-> added QuickSet function and now high beat) - Unidirectional rotating bezel - Waterproof to a depth of 300m -> 200m on the 1680 - New crown - 703 (trip lock) -> 700 on the 1680 - 93150 Bracelet with 593 end links -> 7206 or 9315 on the 1680 with 580 end links Now let's get to the building. Of course you will want a decent case as a base for your build. I also have to say this is probably one of the hardest tasks in repdom. Find a correct case... There are not many to choose... Only ones I know about that are usable are: - 3035 ST case (old and super rare) - Phong 16800 case ($$$) Sure you could use a TC case too but that wouldn't have a shallow rehaut and just be incorrect, also you will have to drill lug holes. It's up to you to decide if you can live with that flaw or not. Imho it's not too much of a biggie but I would still hunt for a correct case. Once you have a case, move on with the sourcing of a crystal, crown and tube. I personally would go gen on all of those. - nonAR 295c sapphire crystal - 703 crown and tube After that, I would go with the decision of the bezel assembly and the bezel ring. Your choices are: - Genuine - Phong - ST - TC (if you go TC case) Bezel insert HAS to be gen imho so there goes that. Now we have almost everything except for movement, bracelet, hands and dial eh? Yeah exactly. Now it is yours to choose if you want to go matte dial (Pallettoni) or gloss dial (with WG surrounds) Special dials would be the Spider dials (also $$$ if proper one) Spider dial: The matte dials are pretty expensive to buy if you can even find them in an acceptable condition. They are really hard to come by. The gloss ones although are out there like sand on the beach, you can find them literally everywhere and also score pretty good deals on them To be periodic correct there are several Marks for the dials.. Matte dials: Mk1: Mk2: Rare dial, can usually be found on watches with serial numbers from 6.1 to 8.5 mil ('84-'85) The hyphen in the wording 'Swiss - T<25' is perfectly centered with the '6 Marker whilst on the Mk1 it was placed more on the right. Also in the depth indication the tail of the letter 'f' almost touches the tip of the letter V in 'SUPERLATIVE'. Mk3: Even rarer dial than mk2 The two hyphens of the '=' in the depth indication are staggered - not aligned to each other Mk4: Now the Mk4 is a special dial since it is a dial that was around at the early serials. It is unique for the font of the 'ft' and the inclination. Gloss dials: Mk1: Mk2: I think the difference between gloss Mk1 and Mk2 are obvious, so I will not get into them now. Bicchierini Dial the Beyeler dials with WG surrounds that came out in '84 and lasted for a year or two. These dials would have the same printed font as the matte dials and were supposedly gloss dials but a lot of them have lost their gloss over time. This is a Beyeler dial- circa 84-85. (taken from alli, thanks I forgot it) If you have found a dial you like, go and buy a hands set, you should use: - genuine - TC LN v2 and age them to match the Patina of your dial. When it comes to the movement, the question is all about your wallet. You can go: - genuine cal. 3035 - ETA Now last but not least, we're having the bracelet.. For that you can choose between those: - genuine 93150 - PT 93150 - anything else aftermarket However I would suggest at least getting a genuine clasp for it. Please also keep the dating of the clasp code in mind so that it mates up with the rest of your build specs. After you have sourced all of those parts, send them out to the watchmaker of your choice and have him build the 16800. Happy building! :sparta::hi: @Sogeha

I can post it on here too. Give me a few hours though. I'm out. I'll mention you once it's up.

It was but due to the fact that the movement is slimmer than the original rep ROOs 7750 crown position it should be on par, there'd be even more pressure to the stem if it was in stock rep position. Maybe they did lower it but not enough which is causing the issues. One solution I might think of.

That sucks! I've had similar experiences with a build by C&W. If A can't help you, there are a few guys in the EU that can do their magic. On the other hand, I'd love to take it off your hands and reduce your hassle. At a good price for you of course!

Can't you see a difference? A few easy ones.. DateCut, DateFont, print on dial, indices, basically everything is wrong.

Meh

I hate it. Wayyyyy too big imho [emoji849]

Apparently, yeap. I would stay away from plated stuff though. Especially from WSO. I've heard some horrific stories about their plated / wrapped whatever stuff. I can highly advise getting a solid 18k two piece bracelet from ST. Way better, also correct gold colour. ☺️

Definitely should man!

You're in Europe without letting me know about that? You traitor!

firm

Wowzer. Great collection you have there. I'm digging the 16800. Makes me miss my old build.

Amazing piece, loving it!

There's a few of these frankens out in the wild. I doubt anyone that owns it would be ready to sell though. It's an absolutely beautiful watch. In order to build one, as @Sogeha said, you need to invest quite a stash of money to get one done. You need to source a gen dial, preferably with gen tachy and hands but that should be pretty hard. Also need to have the complete donor case reworked, milled down, shaved etc. additional to that, you'll have to get a new movement. A LWO 283 (that's an ETA 2892-2 with the Dubois-Depraz module). You'll need a new DateWheel too, unless you can put up with the ETA one which would be incorrect for the model. There'd be plenty more to say but that's just a quick sum up. I hope I haven't destroyed it for you now and you're even more keen on building one after that.

Why don't you get a TC bracelet? If you're really desperate for the noobmariner bracelet, try contacting your TD after CNY and see what he can do.