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Lessons learned...


automatico

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I have been screwing with watches for over 40 years (20+ with replicas) and could not help but learn a thing or two.

A few are listed below in no particular order:

 

1...Look at every watch as it is, not as it could be.

2...After estimating a repair or project, double it just to be safe.

3...Stay away from expensive brands that do not sell parts.

4...Do not assume a genuine rolex movement is any 'better' than a fresh Eta in a project watch.

5...Keep at least 330 feet (100M) away from all AD except to window shop.

6...Never buy a new watch for list price when hundreds of good used examples are available for half price. They are all used after you wear them.

7...Always take "It has just been serviced" with a huge grain of salt.

8...There is no such thing as a 'Grail Watch". Think of them as potential ex-wives to put them in perspective.

9...Quartz beats mechanical hands down (especially chronographs) but they are just not as 'cool'.

10...Never believe a depth rating.

11...If a watch fogs up, it is usually from a leak, not a change of temperature.

12...All watches look better on someone else's wrist.

13...Never artificially 'age' a watch if you plan to ever sell it.

14...The more expensive a watch is, the more fragile it usually is, and the more expensive it will be to repair (Patek, AP, VC etc come to mind). 

15...Any 'project' replica watch is only worth the sum of the parts no matter how much it cost to put together.

16...I have 15 or 20 dials that I got from 'Paul' with Singer perfectly stamped on the back. Does anyone doubt they are genuine? Nooooooooooooooo.

17..."An etaclone is just as good as a genuine Eta." Sellita maybe, but not the Chinese ones.

18 "Swiss Made" my azz. A large percentage of 'swiss made' watches are 90% Chinese by volume and 51% swiss by cost.

19...The Seiko Kinetic and others like it are the answer to a question not asked. Who needs an automatic quartz watch?

20...Hairsprings are the bane of the universe.

Etc, etc.

 

Note:

Number 6 helps to qualify number 5.

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I have been screwing with watches for over 40 years (20+ with replicas) and could not help but learn a thing or two.

A few are listed below in no particular order:

 

1...Look at every watch as it is, not as it could be.

2...After estimating a repair or project, double it just to be safe.

3...Stay away from expensive brands that do not sell parts.

4...Do not assume a genuine rolex movement is any 'better' than a fresh Eta in a project watch.

5...Keep at least 330 feet (100M) away from all AD except to window shop.

6...Never buy a new watch for list price when hundreds of good used examples are available for half price. They are all used after you wear them.

7...Always take "It has just been serviced" with a huge grain of salt.

8...There is no such thing as a 'Grail Watch". Think of them as potential ex-wives to put them in perspective.

9...Quartz beats mechanical hands down (especially chronographs) but they are just not as 'cool'.

10...Never believe a depth rating.

11...If a watch fogs up, it is usually from a leak, not a change of temperature.

12...All watches look better on someone else's wrist.

13...Never artificially 'age' a watch if you plan to ever sell it.

14...The more expensive a watch is, the more fragile it usually is, and the more expensive it will be to repair (Patek, AP, VC etc come to mind). 

15...Any 'project' replica watch is only worth the sum of the parts no matter how much it cost to put together.

16...I have 15 or 20 dials that I got from 'Paul' with Singer perfectly stamped on the back. Does anyone doubt they are genuine? Nooooooooooooooo.

17..."An etaclone is just as good as a genuine Eta." Sellita maybe, but not the Chinese ones.

18 "Swiss Made" my azz. A large percentage of 'swiss made' watches are 90% Chinese by volume and 51% swiss by cost.

19...The Seiko Kinetic and others like it are the answer to a question not asked. Who needs an automatic quartz watch?

20...Hairsprings are the bane of the universe.

Etc, etc.

 

+1

Nice sharing

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I think on #4 he is comparing the value. A gen movement is say  $1500, and that's used. It runs for years, then needs service. A gen eta cost $250.  It runs for years and needs a service. Service on a rolex movement is min $300. Service on a gen eta is $125, or, buy a new movement for $250.That's still less than a service of the gen. Let's say each movement runs 5 years and then needs a service. At the end of 30 years, you have $3300 in your USED rolex movement.. At the end of 30 years with your eta you have $1750 in new movements. The big difference is your eta movement is NEW. I think #4 is spot on

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I'm definitely stuck on the fence with regard to #4. I'm working on my 5513 build with some invaluable and great trusted members. I'm looking forward to putting it all together with my local watchmaker who's been our guy for 20+ years. He says "can't go wrong with Rolex" and I'm inclined to agree as I haven't put a nickel into a cal.1570 Datejust 1601 in ten years, aside from one cleaning at $75.00. It keeps great time. Not perfect, but for a watch that's about 50 years old, it keeps great time.

 

Now concerning this build, I have the opportunity to put a cal.1520 movement in it, and I feel that just makes the watch all the more "real" than a replica with ETA in it. I don't ever plan to sell it, I'd like to continue to find that perfect genuine face and hands. The bracelet and crystal are genuine, crown/tube, bezel mechanism and insert are genuine, and the case is a beautifully shaped and modded up mid-case and case-back pantograph engraved.

 

Putting in a cal.1520 and then eventually finding the perfect face and hands will make it "real" to me, and I suppose that's what a lot of this is, emotion, eh?

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I'm definitely stuck on the fence with regard to #4. I'm working on my 5513 build with some invaluable and great trusted members. I'm looking forward to putting it all together with my local watchmaker who's been our guy for 20+ years. He says "can't go wrong with Rolex" and I'm inclined to agree as I haven't put a nickel into a cal.1570 Datejust 1601 in ten years, aside from one cleaning at $75.00. It keeps great time. Not perfect, but for a watch that's about 50 years old, it keeps great time.

 

Now concerning this build, I have the opportunity to put a cal.1520 movement in it, and I feel that just makes the watch all the more "real" than a replica with ETA in it. I don't ever plan to sell it, I'd like to continue to find that perfect genuine face and hands. The bracelet and crystal are genuine, crown/tube, bezel mechanism and insert are genuine, and the case is a beautifully shaped and modded up mid-case and case-back pantograph engraved.

 

Putting in a cal.1520 and then eventually finding the perfect face and hands will make it "real" to me, and I suppose that's what a lot of this is, emotion, eh?

 

No. 21 - No matter how much you spend or how many gen parts (incl. movements) you put into a build, there will always be something that will bug the snot out of you.

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"...after 50+ years of counterfeiting, still no perfect rolex."

Yeah, I know what you mean and besides, they made so many versions of genuine watches of the same reference number that there is no 'perfect' rolex to go by.

 

"I would love to know where you got the Singer dials from."

A dealer called "Paul" about 10 or 12 years ago. They are 100% fake, same as most of what you see on 'refinished' dials today.

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