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I would expect that this primarily relates to new members. When you do a search in the sales threads, sometimes your search will bring up a very, very old thread, one that has been dead for years. I got a PM to approve a post a little while ago. A new member was asking about photos of a strap for sale. When I went to the thread, I saw that it was started in 2009!! Now what are the chances that a 7 year old strap thread is going to get you a strap? So guys please look at the date the thread was posted before you start asking questions about the items for sale. This does not apply to any of our "Knowledge" threads, brand threads, general discussion, etc. often it's sort of neat to bring and old thread back from the dead. Newer members read it, folks add new comments and everyone gains. Sales threads, however, are like a smelly corpse. Better to let them rest undisturbed, far away!!

Feedback: This looks like it is going to be great and I have always been impressed by how @JoeyB freely shares hard won information on GMT builds. Suggestions: Keep posting pictures and reports on progress. You are right, we love watch pictures and a meaty build thread.

I agree with Legend. If you are interested in buying a watch, PM The seller and discuss the movement. If you aren't satisfied with his explanation, then walk away. We are not going to put up with you questioning the authenticity of every stated ETA movement irregardless of whether or not you are buying. I can assure you of something else, if you were trolling over on RWI like you are doing here, you would have been banned, no time out, no suspension, just BAM!! Banbed.

I'm bumping this thread for no better reason than that I really like what @nanuq wrote here.

If you like it, go for it. I have two of them and the movement is quiet reliable in mine (I belive that the issue of the running sec @12 was an issue years ago, not these days with the new movements).. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The first issue I see is finding a plastic crystal without a cyclops. This watch case takes the C-116 crystal and I don't know what a similar crystal without a cyclops would be. But if you find a crystal that fits the case tightly, you could have jmb turn a bezel for you that would fit. Buying a good set of calipers will help you thru this process.

Gentlemen, for a while now I have been watching sales adverts closely, the reason for that is now apparent. It seems to me that since we went to the new format there has been an increase in posts without a tagged photograph. I know the new sales listing is not great, a number of comments have been made including one by me, Admin has heard us, but for the time being this is what we have and we have to make it work. If you can upload one picture, you can upload a tagged picture. For those that don't know the reason, a handwritten tag with username, RWG.cc and the date shows you have possession of the watch. It is a small but I believe useful step in combating scams. If I don't see one I will jump on your advert regardless of your standing or any personal friendship. I don't do it because I like my new power or out of any personal animosity, I do it because I believe it is a small protection for the whole community. If you have been here years with a good feedback, then we kind of all know who you are, but to be fair I believe the same expectation should apply to everyone otherwise it can seem like hazing the new guy. On a similar matter as @Mike on a bike has said often, Mods can not be expected to provide total security in trades. The strength of this forum is not in the great team of Mods, nor in rules and regulations. The real strength of this community is in all of us watching each other's backs. If you see an ad and you can hand on heart say you trust the seller or have had good experience of a trade with them, please say so. If you are equally convinced someone is a bad egg, consider a PM to a Mod. Every so often we get someone sign up and try a sneaky back door sale or link to an unknown website. The only way we could stop this is to be a closed group and I don't think anyone wants that. Mods are not able to be online 24/7, if you see something like that tag a Mod in a post and add warning remark. I totally missed one recently, but by the time I had picked it up two members had politely but comprehensively crapped all over it. Thanks guys. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

I believe I was one of those crappers... and I think it is good protocol to tag one of the Mods in a less crapping post - as a heads up. My approach... I'm afraid was impetuous. I saw lots of warning signs to a possible scam (no tag, single digit post count on account registered a while back (could be hacked), over hyped description and photos that didn't really match the description. But it isn't my role to crap on threads and become a one man vigilante. Long day... bad decision. Let's help the guys who keep this place as safe as possible in their endeavours on our behalf.

Threads like these do have a little warning on the bottom that the topic is old.

Personally, I wouldn't but one. But many people do and seem to be happy with them. There is a lot of information to read up on regarding the seconds @ 12 AP's. The most recent information is the most relevant

Welcome Yes that is a secs @ 12 movement. Hours @ 6 30 minute counter @ 9

Have you looked here? https://rwg.cc/forum/230-watches-clothing-parts-accessories/

Yes, these are good reps. I have a bond 50 rep and it's very well made. All TD's can get these. Look at each TD and choose one that you feel comfortable with.

Hi, I happen to make jewelry as a hobby so I used my buffing wheel . But you could also do it with any buffing pad and use cheap polishing compound from hardware store. Just pick a fine compound, not a rough cutting compound. They make compounds for stainless steel. You could try using a Dremel, with small buffing wheel, and add the compound. But a large wheel is easier .

I have warned you before with you going around questioning every sales thread regarding the movement in each of the watches. You have no intention to buy any of the watches so I would like to know why you are obsessed with this topic. Your posts are all moderated because you have chosen to ignore the mods PMs to cease your annoying questions. I am here to tell you that if you persist in your annoying and obsessive behavior you will be suspended for a month. A subsequent violation would result in a permanent ban. I don't like your attitude. I'm hereby imposing a gag on you till send me a pm assuring reasonable behavior from you. You need only to be interested in the movement of the watch that you are buying. Not every watch on sale. Understand? I tread softly along the fine line separating raving insanity and lucid moments of ingenuity. The issue is I've no idea which is which mostly.

Thank you A, I saw the post and sent a PM, I think it can be a problem on a 'phone, that one doesn't always see post dates and other details.

Lucky pick up[emoji106]

ambulance

You have the right idea, but the wrong approach. You need a Watch Repository.

A touch of Venus, in the form of cal. 178

My alternative to the notorious PAM Bronzo which I cannot pull of either price or wristwise.

1966 always looks good on my wrist [emoji4] Highly recommend!

[emoji632] I make clearer lume @6

I have both his 7016 and 7021 cases and they are perhaps the best aftermarket case for the vintage Tudor out there. Phong typically uses ETA 2789 movements which are the last iteration of the 2784 that Tudor originally used in the 9401 and 9411. The later 7016 used a 2783 which was the 2784 with no date. The place where I feel Phong could improve is in the area of his handset and dial. The hands are out of proportion when compared to gen. Hour and minute hands too fat and the second hand diamond falls in the wrong place. Tail of the second hand is also tapered out too wide in the back. Remember that Tudor offered three dial versions during the life of the 7016. Pre 1968 the rose dial like the 7928 was available and later the shild dial with roung indices and also the snowflake. This really opens up your available options when searching for a gen dial. (They are becoming rare) The dial is nice enough but this case calls for a gen dial or at least a MQ for sure. Add to that a set of onlinestorehk hands, gen 703, gen T19, gen insert, gen bracelet and you have a real winner! In the end you will still have half the cost of buying a gen in the watch. So considering all the above would I buy the Phong? Yes! I have two of them and if there was a third vintage Tudor I had an urge to build I would buy another. Here are a few pics of my 7021 build which is the same case but with 7021 engraving. The bezel is the Clark watch parts bezel. Dail, crown, 93150 bracelet and endlinks are gen. 2784 movement sourced as NOS and serviced by Misekped. Cost to reproduce $2500-3000. (Depends greatly on dial and phong case cost) I guess I could have just said buy one you will love it! (Bit I feel there are too many nondescript posts these days) Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Just for comparison, I dug out a Sub bracelet that Trusty sold me with my first order from him earlier this year. Its for the Eddie Lee Sub seen earlier in this thread, when I have finished refurbishing the case set any way. Anyway, I was very surprised to see the similarities to the TC Bracelet, and V4 clasp. The first thing I noticed is the TC bracelet was smaller, and in actual fact has one link less that the bracelet I got from Trusty. Anyway, look at these following photos, and see for yourself. Weight of the Trusty bracelet is just 0.01g more than the TC bracelet, @ 6.28g maybe that extra link? TC Bracelet on the Right in the following photos.. As you can see, TC bracelet smaller in below photo.. TC Clasp rear, bottom. Notice the TC not only has the correct font, but also has a space in-between "Swiss Made" whereas Trusty don't. TC bracelet, Right. The Trusty bracelet has the 93250 stamping, the TC does not. TC Right TC bottom TC Top TC right TC Left Rear of Clasp Coronet stamping (Trusty) Rear of Clasp Coronet stamping (TC) Trusty nearest TC in focus TC Swiss Made Trusty SwissMade Trusty DE6 STEELINOX 93250 TC PJ4 STEELINOX 93250 TC Clasp ROLEX Trusty Clasp ROLEX TC Dive Extension (matt finish) Trusty Dive Extension (polished/right side) Anyone know what the S stands for in the Diver Extension? TC Left. Safety Clasp thumbnail area TC Left - Fold over safety clasp As you can see, they are pretty close, but the TC has all the finer details correct whereas the Trusty bracelet falls short. However, having said that, the Trusty bracelet is really well finished, and everything works on it as intended. Quite impressed with it, but like Thomas, the devil is in the details. What do you guy think of the comparison?