automatico

I am not an expert on dials by any means but I have traded relax watches since the early 1970's and have noticed a few things... Dial details are different from 'batch to batch' as pad printer parts etc were changed. Besides that, more than one dial company made the dials. A Yuki, IG44 etc dial may not be exactly like a particular genuine dial in all details but they are very good and much more affordable than a top condition genuine dial. A genuine dial on a $900 Frankenstein watch will usually not raise the value of the watch much (if any) compared to a Yuki, IG44 etc dial...and every time I am out in the bright sunlight I would be worrying about sun damage to the high $$ genuine dial. An 'aged' $135 replica dial is cool but a sun bleached genuine $700 dial is not nearly as cool because of lost value. One thing is for sure...my $125 IG44 'meters first' 5513 dial is 500% better than any of the refinish jobs I have paid $100 or more for on original dial blanks that I sent to dial refinishers myself over the years. Some came back looking like they were painted with a roller and lettered with a hair brush. Most of the reason for replicas/Frankensteins (for me anyway) is to make something out of nearly nothing. If I wanted a bunch of genuine stuff, I would just draw $$ out of my life savings and go down the street and buy it. Where is the fun in that? A bank robber on a ZX14 never gets caught. A bank robber on an HD always gets caught.

I vote find a holey case and make a 16800. Old style rattle bracelet with hoods. Semi retro! Coool.

IIrc... "I don't know, I'm not in the watch business, I'm in the image business." It takes a year to make a rolex. New reality... More like a few hours. Some things never change... A rolex buyer is born every minute.

More! More! Rolex 'lost their way' when they went 100% to sapphire crystals. "Rats! I cant tell the time on my new $44,000 Sky-deeweller while flying my new $25million jet aero-plane because of the glare on the crystal." Rolex 'lost their way' when they stopped selling parts to supply houses. "Sir, I understand all you need is a new crystal but we require you to get our exclusive $2000 overhaul, plus parts of course, in order to obtain the crystal...and you get a free limited one year warranty!" On the crystal. Rolex 'lost their way' when they swelled up and chunked out their sporty watches. "Pardon me sir but did you know you have one cuff high and one cuff low?" "Yeah, it will not go down over my new chunky style rolex sub-mareener." Rolex 'lost their way' when they stopped making 'real' watches and went onto the fashion jewelry business. "Man! That's a super cool Duh-tona with all them diamonds and rubies on it! I love it!" "All you hookers are just alike...you don't love the man wearing the watch, you just love the watch." Rolex 'lost their way' when they stopped putting their cheapo, flimsy, stamped clasps on their sporty watches (the models that should still have acrylic crystals). "Pardon me sir, is that a spider web on your new chunky style rolex sub-mareener?" "No, it is a busted crystal, I bumped it against a slot machine. If the watch did not stick up so high, my cuff would have protected it" "I am sorry sir. Did you notice it is no longer running?" "Yeah, it's been like this for six months, they want $2000 to fix it. I have a new Sky-deeweller but can't tell time on it because of the glare." "I wish I had my old 1675 and 1680 back..." ...and it's been a downhill slide since then... Fer sure.

If it is a no date explorer you might go to an eta 2824 or 2836 with aft/mkt hands. You can remove the dial feet and cement the dial to the calendar spacer ring to adapt the DG dial to the eta. If this is the way you go, you will need to use case clamps and screws with a precision movement spacer to hold the movement in place to keep the dial/calendar ring from moving around on the movement. In order to use case clamps and screws...you will need a case with a clamp groove machined in it. If there is no groove, you can cut two short grooves inside the case with a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool being careful not to let the wheel or screw in the arbor get against the crystal (drop a coin, plastic disc etc in the case to protect the crystal). Be sure to cut the grooves in the correct spots and do not get into the threads in the case. The 2836 is a little taller from the stem centerline to the dial than the 2824 depending on what you need for the stem to be centered in the case tube. The crown will fit the DG and eta stems...tap 10. Tap 10 = .9mm.

"...hold onto your frankens. You may not be able to replace them." Good advice imho. No telling which 'factory' makes MBW/MBK, Yuki etc cases but this latest panic may sooner or later result in lower availability and higher prices. RWG members (including me) are used to being able to send some $$ off and get Frankenstein Stuff that most 'outsiders' can not get their hands on...that may change but I hope not. Otoh we are lucky Clark's started selling high quality 5513/1680 and 1675 bezel sets because this makes it a LOT easier to get by with a good mid case and caseback from somewhere besides the u$ual $u$pect$ for our projects. Things change... We had a rolex parts account for years and I thought I could always get parts. That has changed...No Parts For You!! Now I have to scrounge for parts and pay through the nose just like everyone else. My 'rolex hobby' is no more...now it is a 'replica rolex hobby'. A couple years ago I traded a Yuki 1680 case for a Phong 1655 case because I figured I could get another 1680 case at any time. Now I am hanging on to what I have left.

"I think auto had one and had to do a bunch of machining on it to be able to use it." The movement and dial fit just fine but the crystal, inner, and rotating bezel will not fit with a genuine crystal. A genspec crystal will fit the case but not the inner bezel...and the case uses a spring wire to hold the rotating bezel on the crystal bezel. All in all it is not bad for the $$. I posted a more detailed response in another DW thread last week.

"I kind of like his Sub case though. Anyone has any experience with it?" Here is the scoop on his '1680' case providing it is the same as it was a year or so back: The case is well made and the lettering between the lugs is Ok. The case sides are rounded like a DJ, not flat like a submariner. They can be sanded flat or left as is but I doubt many 'non experts' will notice the rounded sides after the case is beat up a little. Crown guards can use some shaping. The rlx 1575 movement/dial is a very good fit in the DW case...it uses original type case screws to secure the movement and the stem lines up fine. A genuinie spec case tube screws into the case (case is supplied with a non spec tube and crown). An original type gasket between the case tube and case will not work because the case is not properly cut for it. The bezel assembly is not genuine spec but the case neck will accept a genuine spec crystal. The DW crystal ring will not work with a genuine spec crystal. The DW rotating bezel uses the hex spring retaining method...not 'snap on/fall off' like genuine. You can install a genuine spec crystal and Clark 5513/1680 bezel kit to make it a lot closer to genuine. The caseback gasket is not genuine spec and uses a smaller flat section gasket instead of a round section O ring. It will seal Ok in everyday use though. Imho... All in all the DW '1680' case is not a bad deal, even with a Clark bezel assembly added for a total of around $200 (+ genuine crown etc). If someone took their time to detail one of these cases and add the Clark bezel kit, they would have a very nice case for not much $$. I had a Yuki case that was super fine but I have read of some being hit or miss so this may be a viable option. I have one of the 'new' MBW/MBK '1680' watches (etaclone) and it seems to be close to a 5513 inside the case for fitting a 1520/70 no date movement and dial. The 'new' MBW/MBK '1680' case looks like it would take quite a bit of work to accept a rlx 1575 movement/dial. The DW case is not as close to genuine as the higher priced replacement cases on the outside...but it is very close on the inside if you want to use a 1575 rlx date movement/dial to make a 'budget' Frankenstein '1680'. The main reason I would use the DW '1680' case is to make a 'budget 1680 Frankenstein' with a rlx 1575 movement/dial. If I wanted to make a nice '1680' with an eta, I would go for a MBW/MBK or the best cartel case I could find.

"I had a question about the pressure testers. I understand completely how they work, but I'm curious about quality of sub $1000 models. I see a few brands listed on Amazon and other markets for as low as $200-300. I know these are only rated to 6 atmospheres or so, but I don't drive. However I don't wanna buy a total POS that won't work at all. I was also thinking about how simple the device itself is, seems like something I could make from a $100 paint pressure tank. Those things are steel and it would just need a polycarbonate window cut into it and I'd be good for 100psi (>6 atm) easily, powered by the compressor in my garage." I had a couple of the Bergeon 5555 pressure testers and both had problems with plastic pressure chambers cracking. Next, I got a Bergeon 5555-98 with the improved pressure chamber and have had no trouble. You can find good used Bergeon 5555 for around $100/$150 but the 5555-98 will probably be quite a bit more because it is a lot better. I installed a Shrader valve (like on a car tire etc) in the top of the pressure chamber in place of the pressure release valve so I can pressurize it with a small portable air tank rather than pumping it up every time. The pressure chamber has held fine up to 100 psi many times (100 psi = about 7atm). Since 7atm is good enough for anything I work on now, I do not need a high pressure (high $$!) tester. All the F520117 'noob' submariners I tested were good to 2 or 3 atm as were many other replica rolex models after checking gaskets etc (silicon grease on all the O rings etc). I pumped a few 'noobs' up quite a bit more and they were Ok too. Many watches will leak around the case tube where it screws into the case or around the crown because it does not seal properly to the case tube. Others may leak around the crystal, especially models with the crystal pressed into a thin plastic gasket. I test them with the movements removed for obvious reasons.

I saw a while back where a couple members were wondering if any replica casebacks would fit a genuine rolex 16000 etc case. A caseback from a noob F520117 submariner has the exact same threads but the od is a bit bigger and will need to be cut down. genuine 16000 cb threads...30.90mm noob cb threads...30.92mm Use 30.9 as a reference. 16000 cb od...32.4mm noob cb od...35.5mm You will only need to remove about 1.5mm of material to get it down to 32.4mm+/-. 16000 cb overall thickness inc threads...4.35mm noob cb overall thickness inc threads...5.05mm material thickness in the center of the 16000 cb = .8mm material thickness in the center of the noob cb = 1.4mm Anyone handy with a lathe can turn the noob cb od down to fit the DJ case and there is enough material in the noob cb to reduce the overall thickness a little if desired.

Any company that has evolved into what rolex is today is very lucky to have a spokesman of this caliber even though his interest is in rolex watches from 40 to 60 years ago, back when rolex was smaller and much nicer to their customers. Imho rolex USA has really taken aim at their dealers and customers in the past 20 years. I started wearing their watches in the early 1970's but they have really changed for the worse since then. They are so bad now that there is no way I would wear a modern rolex. Modern to me = sapphire crystals or quick set. I'll live in the past too.

I like dive watches that are not commonly seen. A few that I kept... Zenith Defy diver with maroon dial. The movement is rubber mounted in the case. Pair of identical 1970's steel manual wind '666' watches with black and red rotating aluminum bezels and Seiko manual wind movements...one branded Bulova and one Caravelle. NOS Benrus 100m with rotating bezel etc but no movement, it came that way, a salesman's sample. Matching pair of 100m Wittnauer manual wind watches with rotating bezels etc, one slow set, one quick set. Bulova 32 or 33mm steel 200m diver watch, double O ring crown etc. Hamilton automatic with 'compressor' type case (internal rotating bezel). Same case was used on many brands. A guy gave me a 3/4 size 200m Oris OR583-7457-4055-STL diver a few months ago with a broken stem and it has a lady size Eta 2688 in it (Oris was 'famous' for lady size movements in regular size watches). It says '200 METERS WP' on the dial...not WR but WP. It looks like an older watch but they are still for sale. etc, etc Also have a few ultra cheapo divers in pot metal cases with pin lever movements. Some marked 100m etc but no way they would hold up over 3 feet deep.

Looks good! The 6694 is one of my favorites. I bought a genuine (882xxxx) 6694 new in the late 1980's for $900...close to list price iirc, put it in 'lay away' and paid for it in a few months. It had been in the store 3 or 4 years...I felt sorry for it. Twenty plus years later it is a 'classic' but not worth a whole lot more than when new, unlike submariner, GMT etc.

"This is a M092117 out of the box from early 2011, is this the same as they sell today?" It looks like an original noob except for the bezel engraving, it even has the 'I' type 5 minute markers. Do not know if they are still available or not. I got the first noob in 2006 or 2007 from 'Paul' and the last one from 'a guy' in NYC in 2010. First few had genuine Etas and the last one had a goldtone Plain Jane etaclone. Had one with a decorated silver color Seagull etaclone in between. A few had three piece SEL and a few had one piece SEL. The first few watches had steel tubes over the screws in the removable bracelet links. Later examples did not. The reflector ring/rehaut looks shallow on original noobs but it is partially an illusion because the reflector is machined straight up from the dial at 90 degrees for a few tenths of a mm before it turns away from the dial making the reflector look more shallow than it really is.

Here is how I look at it... "bought new 15 years ago" The watch is around 25 years old, went out of producton in 1986/87. The 3035 is not much of a movement imho and in the opinion of quite a few others. 'Bark' bezels are dogs. Is the dial a high $$ stone dial or cheap painted dial? Can't tell in the pics. Watch shows 20 links, 24 is a full set (15 links on the 12 side and 9 links on the 6 side). There is a bad recession going on. I would be a buyer at $2800. Why am I so cheap? I see a lot of used gold rolex etc watches for sale and believe me...they are not selling at retail prices. Example...last Sunday a fellow had one average 14k rolex 1501 OP (cal 1570) and an average gold cap rolex 1550 OPD for sale (cal 1575 hack)...both running at $1200 for the pair. Both need c/o, crystals, case tube, crown etc. Dials are Ok, nothing special. I probably would have bought them for $1000 but did not have the $$ on me. The four other guys at the table who did have the $$ were not interested enough to make an offer. I know a gold buyer (not a pissant buyer but a big time buyer with an armed guard etc) who travels around buying all kinds of scrap gold, coins, watches etc and he will only pay 70% to 75% scrap value plus $400 (for the movement) for a running solid gold rolex. He bought an 18kwg IWC manual wind gent's watch for $200 a couple weeks ago without weighing it and I offered $300 last week. He said "We'll see." I'll take enough $$ for the two rolex watches this week because the guy might be back.

Imho, if there is such a thing as an 'out of the box classic replica'...the original F520117 noobmariner is it. The crystal is stepped on the outside edge like genuine but it is not oem spec and afaik the only crystal that fits properly is another noob crystal. I have an LV noob F520117 that I wear now and then and everyone who has examined it (gen-rolexnuts included) was impressed by the fit and finish.

There is a groove cut in the 15000 case where heads of the two case screws on a 3035 movement go. The screw heads go into the groove and you back them out against the top rail of the groove to hold the movement in place. When you install a 3035 movement you have to turn the movement to where the case screws will drop down into the groove. The case will have a small notch in the groove where the case tube is and a larger one cut directly across from it. If you look closely just below the threads in the case you will see the top rail of the groove. If you use case clamps you will need a spacer that allows the clamps to fit over the spacer and into the groove. If the spacer is too thick you can cut notches in the spacer to allow the case clamps to pass over the spacer and into the groove in the case.

"Buffed/ Softened Case---I think I may have overdone this. Too much polising will give the holes a chamfered look. Not sure if this is a good thing." If you ever want to bring it back to the way it was, you can sand the sides of the case with 600 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper folded over a straight edge under running water (I use a wooden 'Popsicle' stick). Follow up with 1000, 1500 (and maybe 2000 for an 'ultra shine'), then finish with Happich Simichrome polish etc. I started using Simichrome polish in the 1960's on motorcycles. Their motto back then..."Makes aluminum look like chrome and makes chrome look a foot deep." "Don't worry about the lugholes being chamfered, most of the old 1680's and 1665's that were worn every day have lugholes that have that wallowed out look." True. Wear it!

"How is the Startime Gmt case set? Has anyone have one and built a Gmt with the Startime case yet?" Afaik StarTime has only submariner cases, one for 3035 movements and one for 3135 movements. The case neck on modern submariner cases is made for a 295 sapphire crystal so a 135 acrylic crystal from a 16000 DJ etc should fit the case neck. A 116 crystal will not fit a modern DJ or sapphire submariner case as it is smaller in id/od. The modern submariner case with a 135 and gmt bezel might work but the case is cut for a 7mm crown and a 5.3mm crown would look like a 10 inch wheel on a motor home. It would probably be easier to stick with a 1655 type case. "TBH im so close to just giving up on all my builds and selling off the parts." Me too. I have projects going back into the early 1980's and will never get them all done. I was digging in my project cabinet a few days ago trying to find a steel case Longines Ultra-Chron with a 14k bezel (forest green dial!) that a guy gave me 20 years ago. I needed to look at it because I had another cal 431 Longines apart for so long that I forgot how the calendar works went together. One wheel had a dimple punched on it and I could not remember if it went dimple up or dimple down. All the green dial watch needs is a marker on the dial...and a crown, crystal, c/o etc, etc. I did knock one out last week though...finally finished a steel case Wittnauer auto d/d, matte black dial with 10kyg bezel from the 1960's...apart since 2002. One down, 200 to go...

"Any idea why the date appears a bit high in the window? That is a bit odd for a gen movement/datewheel, but well done." The end of the 'date jumper' that holds the date wheel in position is mounted eccentrically and has a screwdriver slot that will turn either way to center the date in the window.

Stretch the Rodico out a few times to make it absorb oil etc better. It glazes over when stored and is not as effective. Blot it or roll it...do not rub Rodico across a dial.

Chances are there is a stem that is very similar and can be easily modified to fit. Modifying an existing stem is a lot easier than making one from scratch. It is better to start with a stem that is exactly the same where the flats are and has the same thread size but the hub, detent groove, and pilot are fairly easy to modify. Most repair guys with a 'ww' lathe can do it. 'ww' = watchmaker type lathe Anyone who discovers a close match can post what it is.

There are a few things that give replica clasps away... 1...goofy coronets 2...too many or not enough adjustment holes (DJ with 6 holes etc) 3...no rivet on the f/l end where the bracelet connects to the clasp cap on sporty models 4...wrong stampings on the blades 5...ratty springbars 6...no indentions on the end of the clasp cap on vintage sporty models (the little dent on each side that holds the bracelet under the clasp cap) etc, etc... I posted a while back about drilling holes out on a clasp cap and using a steel springbar with 1.2mm ends rounded and polished to look like a rivet. This works pretty well and is quick and simple. Today I modified a pair of strap notching pliers to make the indentions at the end of the clasp cap to hold the bracelet in place...cheapo notching pliers like are used to cut 'Gucci notches' in leather straps etc. The center (cutter) blade on the pliers is cut at the wrong angle to make indentions and is too thick so I reshaped the angle of the center blade and thinned it down by grinding it evenly on both sides. After the center blade is thinned down, the outer jaws will have enough clearance with the center blade so it will not cut the side of the clasp cap. What you end up with is a pair of pliers that will make a respectable indention in the side of the clasp and hold the bracelet in place at the same time. I practiced on an old clasp cap until I got the hang of it and it turned out pretty good. Total time to modify the $10 pliers was about one hour. I do not know when the indentions were discontinued on genuine clasps but the clasp on my beat up 93150 bracelet has them but it is an old model. Here are a couple 93150 clasps with the indentions: eBay item 320921706000 and 330738373830 I looked through my stash of replica bracelets/clasps and the only clasp caps that I have with indentions came from 'Paul' 6 or 8 years ago on oddball clasp caps with 'sideways coronets' and a couple regular f/l clasps on 'red' submariners. I do not see the indentions today on anything much at all but they are one more detail that is fairly easy to duplicate.

"You need to shave about 0.5mm off the gen 1680 dial all the way around to get it into a Polex 5513 case. You're right about the 1570 movement alignment. I would stick with a 2846 as you suggest." I have told this story before... I put a 'low ball 5513' together using a DW 5513 mid case etc, rolex 1520, and a 26.0mm IG44 5513 dial. The dial hole in the case was just a shade over 26mm. I wondered how this would work but someone posted pics of a genuine 5512 (same as a 5513) and the dial hole was a shade over 26mm also. Last time I worked on a 5513 was 10 or 12 years ago and I could not remember how it went together. I stuck the DW '5513' together and everything fit fine...the dial goes through the dial hole in the case just a little bit and is not touched by the case at all. The movement mounts up against the inside of the case and holds it all in place. Only the dial feet hold the dial on the movement. The dial hole in my MBW/MBK Polex 1680 case is 25.4mm and a 26.0mm dial will mount against the inside of the case in the normal manner. It does look like the id of the dial hole needs to be enlarged a little so too much of the minute marks will not be covered. Anyone with a genuine 5513 measure the id of the dial hole and post it if you get a chance. "As long as we are on the topic what do you guys think of the older Yuki cases (for gen movement)?" I had one of the earlier Yuki 1680 cases a couple years ago (it was about 2 years old then), and it was very good...everythig fit and it looked just like a genuine case. The 'short E' inside the caseback was a tell but not many know to look for it. My guess is that as more and more 'greenhorns' hire on in rolex service centers that cases as good as Yuki, Phong etc will sail right through if they are aged and everything else is genuine. Otoh...rolex service will not take in many 5513/1680 etc (less every year) so it will not matter before long. If you keep up with VRF etc you will see that many of the self proclaimed 'rolexperts' can not tell genuine parts from top grade replica parts anyway...and I really doubt if I could tell a top grade replica case or dial from genuine either. Not much gets by the more knowledgable posters on this forum however.

I have put a few Frankenstein DJ together and here is what I know... 1...A 'top of the line' FS DJ would be a genuine case/dial/bracelet + fresh Eta but all the parts + Eta + labor will usually come out to $700 or $800+/- (add $500/$700 +/- for tutone). 2...The next step down is probably a genuine case and dial with aft/mkt bracelet and fresh Eta + labor for about $500 to $700. Still a lot of $$ imho. 3...Drop down to a replica case/bracelet with fresh Eta and genuine dial at about $400 to $500. This barely qualifies as a Frankenstein but cost is held down. 4...Last but not least is the non FS DJ...the best looking dial you can find in a 'swiss Eta' 100% replica. 5...Down from that is the same watch with an Etaclone. 6...Last in line is same as the Etaclone watch but with '21 jewel' motor. All the above applies to 36mm sapphire DJ. Q...How would I go? A...Option 3 or 4. Option 5 if I had a spare swiss Eta. Tips... 1...Steel FS DJ are a lot cheaper because of gold prices. A high quality die struck 18k bezel that used to be $150 is now $250 to $400 or more. An Italy made high grade SS/14k heavy center link jubilee is now $800 or $900 when they used to be $400 or less. A SS/14k bracelet looks just like a SS/18k bracelet so save the $$ because most of the 14k gold used in aft/mkt rolex parts is mixed to look like 18k. If you buy a genuine rolex bezel, 14k was used into the 1980s and the bezels are not marked for content, only stamped on the underside with a coronet on later models. The bracelet's gold content is marked on the clasp on tutones and the bezel should match. Buying from unknown sellers with bargain prices may result in 10k or 12k gold being sold for 14k or 18k. 2...Stainless steel die struck fluted bezels are available for about $35 to make a SS/white gold DJ look-alike. 3...Be sure to use a snug fitting metal spacer and case clamps/screws to secure the movement tightly so it will not slide around inside the case when you pull the crown out etc because this will scuff the paint off the edge of the dial. Before long it will start peeling, especially if it has clear coat on it. 4...Apply some glue to the back side of replica dial marker feet to make sure the markers do not fall off. Be careful with superglue as it can travel and get on the dial. Clean the 'gummy glue' off around the feet if possible first. 5...Use a good aft/mkt case tube and genuine crown on replica cases if possible. Some replica DJ cases are threaded for 5.3mm case tubes so be sure to get the correct combo (read the crown sticky above). 6...If the aft/mkt case already has a sapphire crystal...let it be if it does not leak water (remove the mvt and leave the case in the deep end of the pool overnight etc to check it). 7...If you have a gen spec case, it is a good idea to install a gen spec aft/mkt gasket and sapphire crystal so you can use a gen spec bezel (30.5mm ID). Some replica DJ will have a goofy bezel/crystal combo but the case neck will be the same as genuine (29.45mm to 29.5mm OD). Solid gold bezels can be stretched out of spec by being installed on out of spec aft/mkt crystals or allowed to get out of level when installing them. Always measure the ID of used gold bezels before buying one if possible. A gold bezel much over 29.55 or 29.6 may not seal the case. Btw, I stuck a tutone lowball HS (Halfstein) DJ together yesterday morning. I figure a genuine 18k bezel and crown only qualifies it as a Halfstein. Here is what I used... 1...Aft/mkt case tube and standard 6mm genuine crown ($25). 2...Genuine used 18k fluted acrylic QS DJ bezel ($175). 3...Unmarked aft/mkt DJ case that accepts gen spec crystal. 4...Replica tutone 21 link bracelet (22 on genuine) claimed to have 8k center links (I seriously doubt it but I never had one wear through)...maybe brass base center links? 5...All new steel springbars and clasp hinge rivet ($2). 6...StarTime aft/mkt sapphire crystal and gasket ($30). 7...ST6D movement for now (cheap!). The 'gen spec' tutone base watch was $150 because of the '8k' center links...like I said, I doubt they are 8k but the case is gen spec as for crystal/bezel and the dial and hands are super nice. The 28mm dial was originally made with dial feet for Eta and ST6, they snip the Eta feet off when an ST6 is used. It has a gold/black date wheel with open 6/9 and correct 9mm offset. The gold bezel is made for an acrylic crystal model and it is a little bit lower than a sapphire bezel so I sanded the crystal gasket down a little to lower the crystal...it looks fine, no one would know the difference. If I put an Eta in it later, I will cut slots inside the case for case clamps with a cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool. It has a thick plastic spacer now but it is a tight fit and the movement stays in place. I checked the time on it late this am and it is running at about 20 seconds slow in 24 hours. At $400 or so It looks fine except for the 21600 tick.