alligoat

The guy messed up some of his facts: The 1680 came out around 1969 in full gold- not the 16618. In 1981 the 16800 had the 3035 movement, not 3085, it certainly wasn't a 16610 The 16803 TT might have come out in 1983, but I'm not sure about the term Rolesor being used in that application. It wasn't a 16613 obviously He also left out the 16660 SD which came out maybe in 1980 or so with the 3035 movement and also had the uni-directional bezel and greater depth rating. So, I'd figure the guys a novice...

Don't get your hopes up! The Day and Date fonts are totally wrong- looks like it may have an eta movement possibly. Hands are also wrong as is the winding crown. There are 18K Italian bracelets made and they are ok, and if the case was also 18K at least you'd have some real gold. If you see any signs of fading on the gold parts, then you know it's gold plate. Take it to a jeweler to see if the bracelet and case are legit.

Puretime has them https://puretime05.com/watch-brands/rolex/daytona/daytona-116520-arf-1-1-best-edition-904l-ss-case-and-bracelet-white-dial-a4130-super-clone.html I'm not sure if the chrono hands work, but my thought is that they do not.

Most of my problems have been with the bracelets wearing thin. But that's the chance you take with gold plated reps. I've had better luck with my gold plated watches that aren't reps, those have all held up fine.

perezcope was the guy on VRF who interviewed Bob Barth, the old Sealab diver who wore a 1665 Sea Dweller. Guess he's staying busy these days.

What about a gen Rolex datewheel for the SH3135? Seems like I've read about a lot of people making that swap.

Check out this watch from Puretime- it has a better dial https://puretime05.com/watch-brands/rolex/submariner/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-1-1-arf-best-edition-a2824.html Or there's the Noob V7 https://puretime05.com/watch-brands/rolex/submariner/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v7-1-1-noob-best-edition-a3135.html# or here it is w/ an A2836-2- better than the A3135, IMO https://puretime05.com/watch-brands/rolex/submariner/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v7-1-1-noob-best-edition-a2836.html#

Too bad it has a quartz movement in there.

Sometimes you get lucky with the 2813. I've got a few that are 4-5 years old. And for $138, why worry?

Welcome aboard! You've come to the right place and now there's a lot of reading you need to do. First question is which model Rolex Daytona are you looking for? There's the vintage models like the 6263, then there's the 16520 and finally the 116520 with the seconds at 6. And of course there's variations, TT and gold models are also available. Keep reading, learning and enjoy!

The challenge will be finding a crystal that fits the ID of the DW case. On the DW Daytonas, it's common to have to sand the OD of the bezel- taking it from 30.4mm to 30.5 or slightly larger to fit a standard T-21 crystal. Buying a decent set of calipers is also a good idea. The $15 calipers from Harbor Freight do the trick.

A Rolex Sub ceramic date is a 116610, btw. 114060 is a no date.

Yuki has the same upside down 571s on the 78350 bracelet. Keep looking and good luck.

A while back Chiman did something with a Venus 75 movement and dial. As I recall, if you get a better dial, you'll have to modify the movement- move the 6 o'clock post which is fixed anyway up or down slightly. Someone did put better subdial hands on the Venus 75, but I don't know where they came from- might have been over at RWI that I read that post. Of course, building a 6263 with a V72 isn't cheap or easy either. Don't know about the Yuki cases, maybe they're cheaper than a Phong. The dials are around $186-200 and other parts are available. V72s run at least $1K these days and $200-300 for a service. Maybe you could build a V-72 for $2K or 2500.

Well, I agree with getting the ETA 2836- those A3255s can be problematic and hard to get serviced with parts being non existent. BPs are good also. I was told the BP 36mm DD was the best and the 40mm here looks good also. Definitely get the SS, plated/wrapped gold just doesn't hold up.

Here's a quick shot of my DW with a V72 and a vintage watchmaker dial I just kind of finished this watch. The watchmaker got a couple of spots on the dial and the chrono seconds hand lost it's arrow point so I need a new one of those. The crystal has some scratches and dust on it. The first v72 came down with a bad chrono seconds wheel (part #8000) so I had to swap in another V72. Both are out of Wittnauers. The DW case started out as a 6238/9 with a Phong 6238 dial and the 6239 bezel. Then I bought a Phong 6238 case but I was never happy with the dial so I sold the 6238 dial to Ken down in Australia- he fixed the dial with a little bit of paint. So I had this DW case and bought the Vintage Watchmaker dial from Jensen- it was a very nice dial, but I dropped the watch and a marker fell off the dial and I guess those spots are possibly glue since my watchmaker glued the 2 o'clock marker back on. The white subdial hands came from Phong- nice and thin!

That little $15 crystal press from Harbor Freight is a great tool for pressing on stuff.

DW cases were great for the price- around $200-300 as I recall. Dials varied but some were very good. Here's an Albino 6239 This one has a 7750 movement. DW also had V72 cases and dials and I just built one of those- actually it was a DW case and a Vintage Watchmaker dial- a panda 6239, will get a picture of it later. As for a comparison to a Phong case, I would say Phong is good but it's hard to pass up a DW case at $200-300

Don't oversand it where you can press it on by hand. You want a tight fit- that improves the chances of it being WR. I always use a crystal press for these deals.

That's probably the Swiss watch federation or their lawyers. Andrew's back up at www.trustytime.store Puretime is also back up at www.puretime05.com, I believe

The only way to find a DW is M2M sales. You can find cases on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Generic-replacement-case-for-Rolex-daytona-ref-6263/202138874922?hash=item2f106a742a:g:kdsAAOSwEZdaI-uL But if you want a vintage Daytona, your best bet is to get one from a TD with the ST-19 Seagull movement in it

C12-C1 Xtal- is that an AR'd crystal?

That's an LV dial with the larger hour markers. Enjoy your new watch!

Yep, found the email from the hacker in my junk mail.

marywatch88@gmail.com They used to run $55 and maybe plus shipping.