freddy333

Thanks, but I ended up using another dial (Phase II at left, Phase I at right) I posted a number of threads journaling the construction of the Phase I watch that you should be able to locate via the Search. Good luck.

I went modern this morning

100% accurate (since it is gen). Early 5513s (& the 5514 Comex derivative) came with either a riveted 7206 (with 80 end links) or a folded link 9315 (with 280 or 380 end links)

In my experience, most of these aftermarket chrono hands arrive with the hand wand loose on its tube. In these cases, you have 3 choices - exchange the hand & keep your fingers crossed that the replacement is better than the original, tighten the joint with a staking set (assuming you have a staking set) or apply a small dab of epoxy at the joint (original pic courtesy of Avitt)

You will need to check the sale forums & contact the seller if they do not list boxes on their websites (some sellers can source these things even though they do not list them on their site).

If the coating is external, try cleaning the lens with ammonia (or Windex, which usually contains ammonia). Depending on the type of AR, ammonia will often remove it. If the AR is internal, you will need to remove the movement 1st.

No, sorry, but I wish I did. It is basically a jig that holds a few of the links stationary while 1 of the them is opened. Because of the tool's rarity & likelihood of link damage when manipulated with hand tools, these days, most watchmakers refuse to do anything with these types of bracelets other than adjusting the clasp.

My 1st contact with Mr. Slimeball (Wholesaleoutlet, et al) was in attempting to procure a set of his 580 links 4 years ago. After 3 sets of links & 7 months of (his) lies, delays, email exchanges &, ultimately, a formal complaint to Paypal, I never did receive the links he pictured on his ebay auction page. Oh, & our 'friends' at Paypal ended up taking his side even though I had irrefutable proof of Mr. Slimeball's deceptive trade practices.

Sorry to hear you are having problems. But, like you said, problems like these are the norm. The tubes of most of the aftermarket Daytona hands I have installed had to be either enlarged or reduced to fit onto the pinions. Here is an example of the difference in tube diameters between the original hand (from a donor watch) & a typical DW replacement (which had to be broached) Just be sure to note which hand fits which pinion (the tubes are different lengths - if I remember correctly, the running seconds tube (left) is the shortest, the hour totalizer (bottom) is the medium length & the minutes totalizer (right) is the longest, but it has been awhile, so I could be wrong) (DW hands)

Looks like a 700 (no dots). Shear is (generally) a very reliable seller.

Those rep sellers that sell rep watch boxes often include whatever booklets & paraphernalia that normally came in the box, all reps of course.

Boy, you guys need to switch dentists. I had a root canal 2 days ago & the surgery was 100% painless with only a small bit of discomfort the next day (ranking a 1 on a discomfort scale of 1-to-10). The only thing that hurt was the bill. Those of you with fillings in your teeth that are more than 20 years old, be prepared. Eventually, most fillings need to be refilled & if the original cavity was relatively deep, then you may end up requiring a root canal (followed by a crown).

The individual links in Rolex's riveted bracelets were designed to be sized by removing the rivets, adding/removing links as required, & then fitting new rivets. Since replacement rivets have not been available for many years, the only option, now, is to unfold the links for resizing. Rolex had a tool that performed the operation with minimal damage to the link, but I do not know which RSCs (if any) still have it nor have I ever run across an independent watchmaker who had 1.

panerai153 - You are correct that the original pearls were tritium. However, there are no tritium pearls made anymore, so your best options are either the Ofrei pearl (which, as best as I can tell, is exactly the same pearl that comes with the modern insert that Rolex currently fits during service) or a gen (search ebay or the for sale section on a gen watch forum).

Mystery posing with a new addition to the collection (yes, it is a ladies model)

Alli - I bet a DJ bezel would fit on your 6238. You might see if any of our collectors will sell them individually. Or, if not, pick up a cheap DJ rep (or 2) & try the bezel. That is the way I do it.

If the bezel was cemented in place, the only remedy is to find something that will release the cement (denatured alcohol, nail polish remover, etc). Assuming the bezel was not cemented, the usual method for bezel removal is to wedge a non-serrated knife in-between the bottom of the bezel & top of case & gently pry the bezel off the case.

Beginning the work week with Mystery

A7750s are notorious for having a bit of 'play' in their works. This translates to an inability to set the minute hand exactly (once set, if you shake the watch, the hand may shift a minute or 2). Some fine that (assuming the movement is properly serviced) if you move the minute hand several minutes past the point you want to set it to & then move it back (counter-clockwise) to set it, you will minimize the deviation. This works in some cases, but I have also seen the opposite to work (move hand backwards past the point & then moving it forward (clockwise) to set it).

click me

Orchi is not 1 of the most knowledgeable sources (he is more monkey-see than monkey-do) & his 'article' (just a blog entry) contains no real news for any long-time RWG member.

Still wearing my Bond Sub