freddy333

Wearing something modern today

Ditto Alligoat. Unless you are going the 157x movement route, I would stick with Josh's base watch.

Great review/pictorial

Great pic, Euno. Wearing my freckled OPD on this 1st day of September More & more, I am finding that 34mm is the proper size for a watch.

I think it looks great now. However, it still contains some flaws - the dial & bezel insert are the most obvious. The dial's fonts are slightly off (most aftermarket dials get the O in ROLEX wrong). You will need to do some gen research on your own to compare between gen vs rep dials. The most obvious sin of the insert is the 110 (the numbers are too far apart - correct on top, typical aftermarket insert on bottom) Otherwise, I fit modern gen T21 crystals (this gives the Daytona a jewel-like quality that cannot be matched by any other crystal, including vintage gen T21s) & 7835/357 folded link bracelets to all of my 62xx Daytonas.

Wearing my 6239 non-Daytona Cosmo today modeled by a friend

Post a WTB on TZ.

Because of the complex nature of concept watches, it is unlikely that anyone can (accurately) replicate them cheaply. However, check the recommended RWG sellers to see if they have anything like them. If not, contact the sellers to see if they can source anything for you.

I think Bond used a 16mm strap, but, otherwise, looking good

No. 100% gen & with the exception of the bracelet (which is correct for the model, but manufactured 19 years after the watch), just the way it left the (Rolex) factory.

Model 6619 OP powered by the 26-jewel, automatic calibre 1161. Case is 24.5mmx10.5mm. 13mm SS Oyster bracelet with 66 end links (may swap the Oyster for a Jubilee). Made in 1952 &, believe it or not, if charged under a bright light, the tritium still glows (dimly) for about 30 seconds. To my eye, because of its minimalist design (no index markers & lots of white space), this is the most beautiful ladies watch Rolex ever produced.

I cannot tell you specifically who sells them, but I seem to recall seeing a number of sellers' websites having sections for boxes & accessories. Try/ask Andrew or Josh.

The work looks great , but did they make 5514s with PCGs ?

I do not know the exact size, but the holes in all of the DWs I have seen are correct.

Thanks, but I ended up using another dial (Phase II at left, Phase I at right) I posted a number of threads journaling the construction of the Phase I watch that you should be able to locate via the Search. Good luck.

I went modern this morning

100% accurate (since it is gen). Early 5513s (& the 5514 Comex derivative) came with either a riveted 7206 (with 80 end links) or a folded link 9315 (with 280 or 380 end links)

In my experience, most of these aftermarket chrono hands arrive with the hand wand loose on its tube. In these cases, you have 3 choices - exchange the hand & keep your fingers crossed that the replacement is better than the original, tighten the joint with a staking set (assuming you have a staking set) or apply a small dab of epoxy at the joint (original pic courtesy of Avitt)

You will need to check the sale forums & contact the seller if they do not list boxes on their websites (some sellers can source these things even though they do not list them on their site).

If the coating is external, try cleaning the lens with ammonia (or Windex, which usually contains ammonia). Depending on the type of AR, ammonia will often remove it. If the AR is internal, you will need to remove the movement 1st.

No, sorry, but I wish I did. It is basically a jig that holds a few of the links stationary while 1 of the them is opened. Because of the tool's rarity & likelihood of link damage when manipulated with hand tools, these days, most watchmakers refuse to do anything with these types of bracelets other than adjusting the clasp.

My 1st contact with Mr. Slimeball (Wholesaleoutlet, et al) was in attempting to procure a set of his 580 links 4 years ago. After 3 sets of links & 7 months of (his) lies, delays, email exchanges &, ultimately, a formal complaint to Paypal, I never did receive the links he pictured on his ebay auction page. Oh, & our 'friends' at Paypal ended up taking his side even though I had irrefutable proof of Mr. Slimeball's deceptive trade practices.

Sorry to hear you are having problems. But, like you said, problems like these are the norm. The tubes of most of the aftermarket Daytona hands I have installed had to be either enlarged or reduced to fit onto the pinions. Here is an example of the difference in tube diameters between the original hand (from a donor watch) & a typical DW replacement (which had to be broached) Just be sure to note which hand fits which pinion (the tubes are different lengths - if I remember correctly, the running seconds tube (left) is the shortest, the hour totalizer (bottom) is the medium length & the minutes totalizer (right) is the longest, but it has been awhile, so I could be wrong) (DW hands)