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Hi, I know some reps lack the correct date font on their date discs and some are not being improved by the rep factories for whatever reason. but - what if I have a date disc image that I want to print on an "empty" date disc ? (for an example a navitimer correct date disc) does anyone knows where it's being done ? what ink\toner material is being used for date disc printing ? what printer\machinary is being used? are there any homebrew anternatives that are good? anyone at all have tried this ? Many thanks, Db1

Dear all, I got my hands on one of the famous DW 6263 with the following specs: - DW David Wong base watch - Asymmetrical pusher layout - DW mystery movement (val23 clone?) - Clark crystal - Lightly aged case - Reamed lug holes - GEN 78350 bracelet Before someone sreams read first: Now I have already read a lot about this watch. But still do not know everything and need your help in some points. Also the search function is recently not working. Since the one day down time of the forum it seems like there is no search index. Maybe you have to push the rebuild button in the AdminCP? In the meantime I searched the forum with google. Goal: a short summary What I found with Google was not a real collection at some point only about the 6263 DW with the MM. So I will try to make this one a collection and always update this first post with your answer/experiences and of course mine. 1) The DW case David Wong offered different movement versions. What I read so far is that all cases are always the same (talking about asymmetrical pushers). There are no differences. Also the hight is always the same. If DW used an automatic movement he took away the rotor so the hight is always the same. Compared to the GEN the DW case is very well. The user lhooq made a very unique comparison of the DW case in the forum (http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/135463-dw-6263-vs-gen-daytona-photo-comparison-updated-731). Difference to the GEN are: - slightly higher crown and pusher positions on the gen - thinner mid-section than at the gen - the lug tips on the gen are wider (DW is too thick on the crown side and too thin on the right) - gen's black bezel insert is convex / DWs black bezel insert is not - wrong fonts and spacing on the DW black bezel insert Of course I will post pictures as soon as I have my watch in my hand. At the moment I do not know from which year it is or which batch. So far I know that there were some very good dials and some with some bad. Right? The case is always the same and very close to GEN though there were 3 generations? 2) The DW bracelet The user wiesn089 did an awesome comparison of all available options out there (http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/121576-78350-pictorial-6263-daytona-bracelet-options/). To make it simple: nothing beats the GEN 78350. The DW feels uncomfortably and the clasp won't close properly. In detail: - middle-links are not flexible - coronet is comically wrong and ugly - clasp doesn't close properly You can either get at Yuki but for some more dollars you get GEN with no flaws at all. I would go GEN. 3) The DW dial and hands - 4) The Mystery Movement - 5) Extended part list / Bringing it closer to the GEN At the end I and I assume the other readers want to get as close to GEN as possible - but in a good price range (no phong case or GEN movement). Here I want to sum up what can be done. If you have any experience please let us know. - The old 6263 had a domed crystal. Only serviced 6263 will have a beveled crystal. You can mount a Clark crystal but you need to make it fit to the DW bezel. But the base of the Clark crystal's dome is at a higher level than the GEN crystal. The Sternkreuz seems to be the more GEN like version. User lhooq made a very good comparison here (http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/112613-quick-photo-comparison-vintage-daytona-crystals/). The correct GEN crystal will be the Tropic 25-21. - Crown and tube should be exchanged to GEN as far is I found out. In terms of quality and reliability. The right part numbers for the crown and tube are 4-7030 & 24-703 (this equels a serviced 6263). First version had a 6mm Twinlock crown (24-600) and later the regular 7mm Triplock (24-700). - As mentioned above the DW bracelet can and should be exchanged to the GEN 78350 bracelet. - As mentioned above the DW black bezel insert is not convex as the GEN and typo and spacing is wrong. It can be improved by using an aftermarket bezel which fits just perfect. GEN bezels are over 1000 Dollar. You can see a very good comparison of two aftermarket bezels to DW here (http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/148589-6263-aftermarket-bezels-compared/). Recommended is the aftermarket bezel from an Ebay seller called WatchNY. His auction can be found here (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Vintage-Rolex-Daytona-Replacement-Bezel-6241-6263-Aftermarket-/280827710997?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4162a2ce15&clk_rvr_id=491792608716). Many users wrote that he will accept an offer for 180 Dollar.

Hi i just bought a watch from a reputable TD here which is a PAM029 Swiss movement. From the picture on TD site i saw the movement is in gold color but my is a silver which look like Asian movement to me. Can you guys help me verify it?

Opinions on Quarts Chrono Movement Reps Guys - need your opinions and input. I have an empty spot in the watch case and was looking for a nice representation of a Chronograph using the Japanese Quarts Movement. The watch winder is full up. Been looking at some but would greatly appreciate other options and opinions Here is what I have been looking at and my opinions. Omaga Planet Ocean Chrono - 2 Sub Dials in Blue, w/date at 6 O'clock. ( Issues Date looks a little small and the 3,6 & 9 markers are a little long) - But a nice piece! IWC Aqua Timer Chrono 2009 Black Dial & Black w/Yellow Bezel all SS including Bracelet ( Issues the 12,3,6,& 9 markers look a little long) - This is my top choice so far! Chopard Gran Turismo XL Chrono Mille Miglia - (Sub Dials are not correct to original) - Like the looks of the watch ...but! Breitling TransOcean Unitime or Navitimer - I know nothing about Breitling! I am a little picky on the face of the watch it should be as accurate as possible, but knowing these are Quarts movements the backs might be slightly different. SS or leather bracelets are my preference - rubber or plastic is a hard sell! My budget is $150 us plus or minus.

I'm starting a watch project that involves replacing the movement with another. Other than removing dial feet and so on, I imagine it will require a custom movement ring, or modifying the existing one. Are there any in the EU who are skilled at this? If they can also drill lug holes, that'd be a huge plus.

I bought a Breitling Superocean Abyss in June, 2011. I used it a lot the first year, ie more or less a daily beater. Shortly after it stopped, and I used other watches. I brought it to Thailand and got it repaired, the repairman didn't say a lot and I hoped he had changed the movement. Didn't get an answer and he said of course " a year" and I thought sh.t! The watch went perfect not slowing or fastening, however after a month it stopped, then going 2-5 sec and stop for some sec and going for some sec, etc. When I brought it to repairman in Thailand he said it had had a shock. I did not use it when doing manual labour, however after it stopped I shaked it a lot around. There is a retired watch repairman close to where I live so I hope I can get him to change movement on this. (He doesn't do complicated repairs anymore, so I hope he will do this) I paid about USD 270 + post, and paid too much for the repair , so I thought getting an Asian 2824 and getting someone to change this. Trying to find an asian 2824 seems a bit difficult, although some on ebay. From watchuseek.com comparison ETA 2824-2 , Seagull ST-2130, TY2130 and HZ 6300. http://forums.watchuseek.com/f72/how-do-seagull-hangzhou-compare-eta-depth-look-216945.html 1. The link above does say that these movements are about the same, but I am unaware how to find the right replacement? Is this a match? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ETA-2824-2-AND-SELLITA-SW200-CLONE-MOVEMENT-SEAGULL-ST2130-100-EXACT-SAME-SPECS-/121081456572?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c310467bc How to specify a movement that fits? 2. Pitfalls? 3. Good to load up with movements? I have different movements like 4813, 2824, 7750, quartz, etc. Was a bit disappointed that this "simple" movement stopped. 4. surprised that these movements cost after I heard on this forum earlier that a movement like this costs USD 25. 5. Also heard this model, the Abyss had a tube weakness, my watch has been easy to fasten crown after adjustment. I know some watches fail and others go for a long time, that is also my experience.

So what is the smallest movement that has ever been made? Type 101 movements? 13mm round movements I feel for the people that put them together! I suppose if you've *very* short sighted with very steady hands it'd be a good dayjob. Richard Listening to: Marillion - Afraid Of Sunlight on 1600W RMS of power over the Epos speakers + 15" 400W sub

Hey there watchmakes/tinkerers, I'm looking for some advice regarding my new DSSD rep (it's a piece of crap by the way) The specific issue in question is with winding the watch manually. When winding the movement the crown 'skips' about once per revolution, when I say skip, I mean loss of resistance in turning the crown, it then picks back up winding again. This happens if I am winding carefully or if I forcefully wind the watch with much authoritah. Could this be a keyless works issue or am I possibly looking at a bigger problem with this movement? For the record, this is the worst quality watch I have purchased since I started collecting, the bezel is misaligned (not a huge deal and sort of suspected from the QC pics, so we'll call that my fault) and the crown does not thread in smooth (when I say not smooth I mean I feel like I am stripping every thread all the way in). There is a tight link in the bracelet, it will only move when forced this is even after cleaning and oiling the bracelet, also this isn't a huge deal. While just the bezel or just the tight link would not bother me too much, those two combined, with the crown and movement issue leave me very disappointed in my most recent purchase.

Hi, Please help to verify this movement. Recently I bought a Beritling SuperOcean watch and selected sellita SW240 movement, which is $110 more than normal Asian 2824-2 movement. I opened the back cover and found out the movement is not SW240. Does anyone can tell the movement is a real ETA 2824-2 ? If yes, what is the cost between sw240 and ETA 2824-2 ? Appreciate your help !

Hello everyone! I am new member looking for some help. I am looking to purchase my first rep and wanting some assistants finding the right watch and the right dealer. This is my first replica but not my first rolex, my yachtmaster was stolen this Christmas when our house was broken into when my family and I was out of town for Christmas. Thank god our home owners insurance is going to cover our misfortune. But I figured instead of buying another 17 thousand dollar watch I might go and buy my wife a new car, you know the saying happy wife happy life I have a few watches I have picked out but need some help making a informative decision. I like rose gold and like a little bling, I know don't hold it against me;) I'm in the car business and it reflects my personality so go easy on me. First is the rose gold diamond strap Hublot Big Bang from a site called hublotf1 but don't really know much about this seller. The second is the rose gold Rolex Day-Date with the diamond strap and bezel with the black mop dial. I love this watch! The dealer is a site called timeshop dot net which is a trusted seller on some forums but I wonder about the quality. Last is the diamond two tone gmt master and the two tone submariner. I like the fact that I just learned that there are a lot of mods you can do to these watches which sounds pretty cool just not sure which seller has the best quality watch. There is just a lot to take in and though I have done my home work I feel I need the help from a more knowledgable member to assist me. From( gold rapped, gold plated, movement, mods, dealers to the watches them selves) I'm just not sure where to start. Any help info or input will be appreciated remember I am a noob. Thanks and God bless

Hi, Please help to verify this movement. Recently I bought a Beritling SuperOcean watch and selected sellita SW240 movement, which is $110 more than normal Asian 2824-2 movement. I opened the back cover and found out the movement is not SW240. Does anyone can tell the movement is a real ETA 2824-2 ? If yes, what is the cost between sw240 and ETA 2824-2 ? Appreciate your help !

Hi RWG, I recently picked up a Planet Ocean 42mm Ultimate (OMG0154) from Andrew of Trusty Time and am currently having a bit of a conundrum. When I first received it, I loved it; it looked great and worked really well thanks to the Swiss ETA 2824-2 movement. However, I found within closer inspection a small mark on the inside of the sapphire crystal (which the QC pics didn't show); from what I can tell it seems that it was a smudge that was a result of the AR coating applied to both sides of the crystal. This didn't bother me too much since you really had to look hard to even see it and my gen SMP 300M chronometer has a small mark from dropping it on the crystal (which is also not noticeable unless you look for it). What is really bothering me is the crown of the UPO. When I set the time initially, it took a bit to get used to the resistance of unscrewing the crown as well as screwing the crown back into the case. The other night when I finished setting the time on the UPO, I pushed in the crown and started to screw it back into the case but it pushed back out into the first position. It took a few tries and I was able to seat the crown back into the screwed down position. However, now the crown can be easily be put into the first position by touching the crown with enough force instead of unscrewing it. Now the question is, should I take this to a jeweler to have them see if they can fix it, or should I email Trusty Time to send it back and have it fixed there, or should I just leave it be? Note, that Trusty time does not do refunds or exchanges. Any input would be greatly appreciated and thank you for reading, I realize that it was a rather lengthy post.

Just a nice video part 1 and 2 for those who are interested in seeing a Rolex movement taken apart! http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6xn4TSULVd8 http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=relmfu&v=PCE0NwtLEV8 Enjoy

If you have a handwind PAM with a 6497 and the running seconds removed, please read the following. BACKGROUND The 6497 comes from the factory with an extended 2nd wheel post on which the seconds hand is attached. This is a close up picture of that post, it fits through the dial hole, and the hand is secured to it. If your PAM doesn't have a seconds hand, this post has to be removed so that it doesn't interfere with the dial. Removal is not a problem, if it's done correctly... PROBLEM The removal of the post is not being done correctly, and as a result, your watch is in effect a ticking time bomb...read on to see why... The posts are either being removed at the factory, or they are being removed by modders - modders who don't know what they are doing. Here are examples of factory fresh movements with the post removed. Example 1 On this one they disassembled the movement and removed the 2nd wheel (the way it should be done), but instead of cutting off the post and leaving it long enough to have a proper pivot, they ground down the whole pivot right to the pinion gear, leaving an unfinished and rough pivot, not only is it unfinished, it's sitting in the jewel, not above it. Here you can see that the cut off section is below the jewel face, it should be above the jewel face This is a picture of how a pivot should look, nice rounded top, and it sticks above the face of the jewel. Here I have disassembled the movement and removed the 2nd wheel. And here is a close up of the 2nd wheel and the cut off post, there is no pivot to rotate in the jewel This is how a good pivot should look,this is the pivot on the other end of the 2nd wheel. Example 2 The person at the factory who assembled this watch, was a bit lazier than the first fellow, and he didn't have as much time available as the first one, so instead of removing and grinding off the pivot, he simply bent the post over until it snapped off...with disasterous results for the owner... The result is a very jagged, sharp edge,as the watch runs, this jagged edge will effectively act as a cutter and grind down the jewel, eventually the 2nd wheel will disengage from the rest of the gears... What will happen if left as-is and not fixed... If you own a handwind PAM, you know how many turns are needed of the crown to fully wind it up. You also know how much force is needed to wind that big 48 hour power reserve mainspring. All the mainspring power is held back by the escapment and of course the train gears. The mainspring can only unwind slowly over 48 hours. If something happens to cause the train gears to disengage, the mainspring will unwind in a milisecond. WHEN the 2nd wheels in the above examples finally grind down the jewel enough to cause the gear train to disengage, the mainspring will unwind fully and take with it the minute hand and hour hand and everything else...kiss your watch good bye... Here is an example of this happening, this particular watch had a 3rd wheel failure, but the 2nd wheel failing will do the same damage as you see here. Not only are the dial and hands destroyed, the force has also stripped and damaged all the gears in the movement. RESULT Dial is ruined Hands are ruined Movement is destroyed SOLUTION 1 Don't buy any handwind PAM that doesn't have running seconds, unless you are going to fix it 2 If you do buy one, have it serviced/repaired as soon as you get it 3 If you use the services of a modder to remove your seconds post (FGD dial install for example), make sure it's done correctly - ask for pictures of the workmanship, ask if they own a DREMEL PROBLEMS 1 There are NO SPARE parts available for ASIAN 6497's, so if you have a A6497 and need a new 2nd wheel, you have to buy a complete movement to get a replacement gear 2 For the ETA movements, replacement parts are available, so repair is not a problem As you can see from the pictures, it's simple for you to check this out yourself - as long as your comfortable removing the dial and hands... Modder workmanship Have to at least mention what I have seen...no names...so far I have identified two distinct types of modders... Modder 1 - these fellows don't disassemble the movement, they simply cut the post off with cutters, leaving a jagged eged, but it's above the jewel face so that's good, the jewel won't be ground down. On the downside, the jagged edge is wider that the jewel hole and it won't allow the 2nd wheel to pass through the jewel and be removed, so you can't service the watch. Modder 2 - these fellows are the POWER tool users...the post is ground off with a grinder, probably a Dremel tool...on the good side these modders are too lazy to actually disassemble the movement, so like Modder 1 they leave a post that is above the jewel face. On the BAD side, they don't realize that grinding creates metal fillings, of course metal fillings and mechanical gears don't get along. Clean UP, what's that?? these types don't clean anything, not even their fingerprints, so they leave all the metal fillings everywhere, fillings get into the oil in the jewels, and all over the various parts and pieces, with disasterous results. So there you have it, something to consider and think about... Thanks for reading, hopefully this will save someone from disaster.

Hey guys! Completely new to the forums and new to the whole replica watch scene. I'm thinking about buying a Rolex Milgauss from Andrew and was wondering which movement I should get it in, Asian ETA 2836-2 or Swiss ETA 2836-2. Thanks!

I will be purchasing my first replica (a Milgauss with green sapphire), and have two questions: 1) Which is the best choice: Asia 3131 or the Swiss ETA 2836-2 automatic mvt (gold mvt only) They are the same price. 2) On Josh's site, is the rlm00088 from the 'noob factory'? (i heard that Milgauss's from the 'noob factory' are the best replicas). Thanks.

hello guys, Im just about to purchase lovely pam from TD, they are offering $100-120 movement servicing which includes time accuracy reglation and waterpoofing test etc... anybody tried this before? is it worth it?

Hey guys... after having one rep that died, i made my second rep purchase based on the ability to make a direct movement swap should anything happen. Having done that i like the feeling knowing that if anything happens I'm able to just swap it out nice and easy without having to worry about finding a rep friendly watch smiths..... and more to the point for the price of the new movement its cheaper than a service so can't go wrong! therefore my question is is the 6497 found in the pams a direct swap for anything? I read on another thread that you can drop unitas straight in except these ar on cousins at £170 :/ not quite what i was after! Also are there any threads on swapping the movement? (on here rwi or rg?)

Good people of RWG, I have recently been told that the movement in my IWC Top Gun (Asian Valjoux 7750) is knackered and needs replacing. Problems began when the watch stopped (for no reason) while on the watch winder; to overcome this I started manually handwinding the movement … This worked OK for a few weeks, until one day (whilst hand winding) the noise and feeling inside (sorry for lack of technical terminology) went from a pleasant smooth feel, to a nasty internal ‘crunching’. At this point it was game over … into the repairers, where I was handed the bad news. The joys of rep ownership eh? Boo! So, I’ve bitten the bullet, and decided to go ahead with a brand new movement, fully serviced and pressure tested. What I now need to know is when the watch is returned to me, how I can prevent a similar situation occurring in the future? I have heard all sorts of stuff & frankly, I don’t know what to believe (e.g. don’t change the day / date between the hours of 10-2; avoid sudden ‘jerky’ wrist movements (ha, ha!); don’t use the chrono function (which seems weird to me, as surely that’s one of the joys of chrono ownership!) etc etc.) In short, (and I have read previous posts on the subject) … What’s the score when it comes to 7750’s? Should they be handled like spider webs or are they as robust as regular (non chrono movements)? Lets set the record straight once and for all. Look forward to hearing your comments and as always, many thanks in advance. rclough

Yesterday I bought my first replica watch, A Hublot Big Bang Limited gray. I really like the feel of the watch, and the looks of it too. I bought it in a shop In Saigon, and since I believed this to be a 400 USD copy, when it is actually a 300 USD copy, I ended up paying a bit to much, but I would never have bought this watch on the internet, but it looks great in real life, so I am still very happy. I have only one issue. The watch is very accurate when sitting on a desk. Or t least i checked it for 9 hour during the night and it was perfect. However when I wear it it runs fast. Walking around with it for 3 hours this morning made it go 5 minutes to fast....after only 3 hours.... It is a replica, and I can accept to have to set the watch now and then, but 5 minutes in 3 hours feels a bit too much. I have searched the forums but not come up with anything on this. Is this what you have to expect, or are there simple modifications that can be made? Maybe the heat here is a problem, and it will slow down going back to a colder climate?

So I was given this Deep Sea as a gift by a friends who travels a lot over seas. I've had this for about a year and would like your opinion on this guy because I have been debating with my friend on whether bringing it back himself was worth the risk. I thought it looked good, but then again I am no expert. It does have good a rep helium valve, but I did not take a pic. Any help on the quality would be great. Thanks in advance!!

So in the interests of advancing the hobby, I attempted my first real (i.e. not just resizing the bracelet) DIY watch repair and I've screwed the pooch. I have (had?) a Chopard Mille Miglia GTXL chrono with the grey face and the "12" and "6" on the crystal with a chrono that wouldn't stop running. I took it to a local repair shop that came recommended who held onto it for 6 months and from whom I eventually got it back in a worse state than before, apparently because they could not source the necessary parts. I decided my best bet at this point was a movement swop and so I ordered a replacement movement (A07.211, basically oversize A7750 from what I understand) from Joshua and a watch toolkit from Watch Bitz in Australia. Parts and tools in hand, yesterday I proceed to disassemble the watch to attempt the swop. Things went OK until it came to the hands. Under the loupe it became clear that either I or the repair shop had not been as gentle as I thought with the hand extractor and the hands are quite scratched up. But my problems are worse than that. If I try to remount them, the hour and minute hands seems to spin freely. It almost looks like the pin in the new movement is slightly thinner than the holes in the hands. The problem with the subdial hands is even greater: The pins (I'm probably using the wrong terminology) coming up from the movement are far thinner, and seem to have had some sort of spacer tube on them in the old movement. In my ignorance, I've lost two of the three spacers (one in the disassembly, and one because it went SPROING out of my tweezers), and frankly I'm not clear how to reinstall them anyway. I could give up here but there's not much learning in that. I'm going to contact Joshua to see if I can order a new set of hands and tubes(?), but if anyone here can help with correct terminology (so I know what to ask for) and installation tips (to avoid screwing up again) of the little spacer tubes on the subdials I'd really appreciate it. And a last question - the face was glued to the old movement - any tips on what sort of glue to use for this application? Thanks!

I am looking for rep 3714 movement and dial (white or black-if black please include the tachy). May also consider genuine if available. please state offer. Fran

Hi... I am looking for asian 79350 (IWC) / Modified 7750 movement to replace my current one. Do you know where to get it?

Hi, I recently bought a nice speedmaster rep. with a ST19 movement from a fellow member here. Problem was that the stem was missing, but finally I could source a new one. Now I am wondering if I should install it on my own or get it done somewhere.... I only found how-to's on removing the stem, so my guess would be that installing is just the opposite? - opening case - pushing the "stem-release" button and insert stem Can it be that easy? ;-) I have never worked on a movement before and would rate my overall technical skills at about 7,5 out of 10. Thanks for your suggestions & thoughts!