alligoat

Excellent advice DH. I did something similar with the cartel 5513 with stubby cgs- filed the cgs inside and out, filed the seat down between the cgs, installed a 702 crown and tube, drilled the lugholes. It's still running fine on the dg2813 and is somewhat WR- I haven't been past lite swimming. A 2846 would be a good low beat swap on the TT 5513.

You're still going backwards! First you need to pick a model. Secondly, you probably ought to just buy a rep that you like and then figure out what mods you can/want to do to improve it. And remember, there's two types of etas these days- swiss and clone. Anything coming from the rep mfrs these days is probably clone, but a clone can be serviced and do ok- it's just not the same level of quality as a swiss eta. A while back I looked at a JF16610, it has the 3135 copy movement- the SH3135. So you buy the JF 16610 and then you have to get the movement serviced (tickleshoes or misiekeped) and spend maybe $400 with a gen datewheel. At that point you have a pretty nice watch with $850 or so in it. Or you can go with the 116610 V9- that is probably a pretty decent watch OOTB, so you just enjoy. Maybe at some point you put a gen crystal in it, maybe you don't. If you get it with the 2824-2 or 2836-2 clone, maybe you have to service it after a while- no big deal- maybe $100-150. The options are pretty much unlimited, but it will be a lot easier when you pick which model you like first.

$40 is what it's worth- meaning it's a bad rep. This is what's referred to as a Canal St. rep. The dial is awful and the date font indicates it's just a Chinese movement with the date window too far to the right. The only plus I see is that the case has lugholes which could be enlarged. It's a sub case btw.

Andrew has a similar watch for $348- it's in 36mm http://www.trustytime.club/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_14&products_id=17639 He also has it in 40 mm with a clone 3255 for $10 more http://www.trustytime.club/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_452&products_id=17170 I don't know about the clone 3255- I'd stick to the 36mm model myself with the eta- don't know if it's swiss, but at least it can be dealt with easily enough.

Looking good C! Glad to see that you finally got it together- enjoy!

Assuming that you have a president's bracelet, you could buy a bracelet from rafflesdials and take a few links off of it http://rafflesdials.com/20mm-signed-stainless-steel-golden-president-watch-band-bracelet-strap-flat-end-pieces-for-vintage-36mm-rolex-gold-day-date-watch/

I guess there's been no progress so far! Still seeing multiposts in Rolex wristies thread. It's even showing up in my email- got multi notifications on jackflash's latest post- but there's only one pic of his watch. No one's cleaned up the multiposts of QC pics of JF16610 post yet either.

I followed the Super Sevilles for a while, 3-4 years ago and would have picked one up if I could have found a good one in the $300-500 range. Of course you have to realize that you might have to spend another $100 servicing it since these watches are 20-40 years old. The 2834 movements are typically 17 jewels- not as nice as the current 2834-2s with 25 jewels. I finally went out and built a 118239 knock-off with a DJ case and a swiss 2834-2 that I had. I prefer the oyster band to the President's band and this watch cost me less than $400 to build. I do recall seeing that nostalgia2000- Clarks had what appeared to be an Asian 2834-2 for a good price a while back, that and some parts from Rafflesdials.com and it would be a fairly easy build.

You could remove the whole bezel assembly including the crystal retention ring and fabricate a smooth bezel and install it- that's the only way I can see doing what you want to do. Don't forget that the 14060 is slightly smaller than the 16610 and takes a 285 or 286 crystal- which means it's around 28.5mm or so.

I can't say if a Yuki case is better than a Ruby case. My theory is that you just need to buy your parts and then have a watchmaker put your watch together. You're building a replica, so it's important not to obsess. You can check Phong and Jensen for a set of hands. Or look at what yuki has- http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/7159505.htm When you say reverse panda, I'm assuming you mean a black dial with white/silver subdials- the two that Ruby has look fine to me. MQ is probably more expensive and I've never been keen on buying directly from Vietnam, but I've never heard anything negative about MQ. I'm thinking that a 721 movement is still a 18K beat movement- I pretty sure the Rolex 722 was also 18K. The 726, 727 and 730 were the late Valjouxs at 21,6K. But finding a 726 is expensive these days. Here's a 6239 I put together a few years ago- DW case, Vintagewatchmaker.com (Jensen) dial and a V72 out of a Wittnauer

Looks like a good start to me- can't go wrong with a 1680!

Did someone convert the 2846 to a GMT for you, or did you buy it that way?

Sounds like you're gonna end up with two nice 1675s!

very nice! A little yellow on the hands would help and then wear that bezel to break it in.

It's one of my favorite reps also- I liked it so much I went out and bought the gen! The rep has the 7750 and the subdials are slightly outside of the gen's subdials, but otherwise it's a nice watch. The gen has the Lemania movement which Breguet calls the 582 Q. Both of my watches have the date window at 6- I just find a date is something I prefer to have. Sorry for the fuzzy pic!

Well, bidding is over and the watch went for $6,900.00. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-1016-Explorer-Gilt-Dial-Wristwatch-To-fix-or-For-Parts-/333075830879?_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l10137&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true Guess the rubbed off model # and SN kept people away...

Beautiful watch! You gotta love the 7206 bracelet that says 93150 in the inside of the clasp- English isn't the first language of the builder of the bracelet.

From the description, this is the TW best sub case that came after the WM9 v3. I don't recall which movement that watch had, but either a 2824 or 2836 can be serviced and repaired easily enough. BK had the dial and hands superlumed and with the gen parts, I'd consider this a $750-800 watch. I recently looked at a JF 16610 for a project. At a cost of a little over $400, it was appealing, but then when you looked at servicing the movement, a new date wheel and possibly new reversing wheels, you were easily up over $800 in total costs.

One of the knowledgeable folks at Hess wrote this description up- at least it wasn't one of the underlings! It's a project watch, but it sure looks all original to me. This could go for over $20K! It'll be fun to watch.

Ruby's site said $89 usd when I pulled it up- seems fair to me

The minute hand on this watch is thicker that yours- that would be a bigger concern to me than the length of the seconds hand. A 702 crown and tube would probably be correct for this watch- late 70s.

I think it might work. A movement from a 1601 will have a beveled top ring on the movement whereas a movement from a 1500 will have a flat top ring, But when you install the 1500 dial on the 1601/1575 movement, it shouldn't make a difference in installing it in the case of the 1500. However, people have not been able to use a DJ 1600 movement when building a 1680 franken, so it is possible it might not work in your case either. However, a 1575 movement from a 1500 Date watch will work when building a 1680 Submariner Date. Go figure!

I'm thinking it was around 1972, but automatico would be the person to ask.

Quite a while back I made a 16660 out of a SSD-V2. Matte dial from Yuki, relumed dial and hands by PBdad, lugholes drilled by jmb, Swiss eta with a silver DW with open 6/9s (from a Paul's old DRSD). I got a 93160 from TC 4-5 years ago. But remember one thing- an SSD and a BP SD are NOT gen construction, so don't kid yourself about that fact.

Early 118208 with old style stick markers Startime has the WG replacement case for $3700-4000 usd! Probably a bracelet too for a likewise amount