panerai153

Thank you Mr A. I and I'm sure others are grateful for your expertise and your unselfish willingness to share your knowledge with the rest of us. Very nice point by point discussion. I believe that if I could get the cyclops problem resolved and the hour hand relumed to look like yours, I would be a very happy camper. As you said, great stealthy watch for everyday wear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is and additional close up photo of the hour hand next to one of the hour indices. Very obvious color difference between the two. The hour hand Lume is definitely too grey Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Old Doxa 300T Professional on the new Doxa "beads of Rice" bracelet Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mike, You are a master!! Your 1665 is beautiful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The inner link on the end links are a dead giveaway, they have to be gold, like the top of the link. Don't like the insert either. Ceramic inserts are shiny, not matte like this one. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A little Orange for a gloomy day.

Not much discussion on the FC's any more, but this one continues to be in a close race with my SS Diver for most worn AP in my collection. The watch is light, comfortable and looks good. It is a really nice rep, right out the box, but like all reps, a little "Tweeking" always makes them better! The only thing that I did to this watch was first and ill fated slow beat conversion, and then I had misiekped replace it with a Seagull ST2130 movement, not slow beat but very relievable. This is not a review, but actually questions. Comparing a genuine AP FC to my V3 version, I see a couple of things that could be done to really "tidy up" the watch and make it a little better. What do you AP experts see? First off, The hour hand lume needs to be whiter, I cannot understand why they didn't match the other hands and the indices. In low light conditions, the hand almost disappears. The second thing is the Cyclops AR and mag, I don't believe it is as good as the gen. The fonts on the DW aren't correct, the serifs on the " 1's " are not as prominent on my DW, however the biggest problem is the numbers seem to be lower and they seem to be not as well magnified. Actually to me, it's not just a question of accuracy, but a problem with reading the date at times. Here is a photo of the gen (top) and my V3. I tried to get the sizes pretty close to the same, for the sake of comparison. Any comments, suggestions would be helpful, not only to me but to others who have this watch and may be interested in making theirs better.

I know that the watchNY bezel/insert will work. AFA the dial, I will have to defer to the Daytona experts here who have way more knowledge and experience with Daytonas. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mr. A, as usual, that is a beautiful watch. Maybe a little too much Orange for this old man, but nonetheless and outstanding piece. You, my friend are bringing these ROO's to a whole new level. I'm really impressed with the cyclops and date mag. Would this date mag work, and be appropriate for the divers? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Another flight photo, Atlanta to Madrid several months ago.

Glad that the deal finally worked out. My suggestion that AJ reveal the name of the culprit, was based on the deal going south completely. While I can understand that deals can run into snags, and in most cases, sometimes with some "gentle persuasion" from mods, the deal gets finalized. In those other cases where after exhausting every possible avenue the deal isn't completed, it is probably best for the protection of all members, to reveal the name of the member who goes back on the deal. How many times have we seen less than honest members take advantage of the trust of others and before they are "outed" several other members have fallen victim to the scammer. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mike, I can't see the watch!!!!!! Link is broken on tapatalk. Can you please repost it. Thanks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Well brother, you hi t another home run with that one. Very impressive. The FC 44mm is probably the only 44mm I would attempt, as it is so much lighter than the S/S models. Great watch, great guy, what more can I say!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Very nice work!!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

AJ, you are one of the good guys by a mile, and it always distresses me to see these things happen. One of the things that makes me mad and sad at the same time is this is a great community, and there is a lot of trust here. When someone abrogates that trust, everyone suffers. You as a seller, and other members who find that deals become more difficult. It's impossible to deal with others in these circumstances unless you have a trusting relationship between buyer, seller dealer, repair person, etc. We are buying selling, trading, repairing watches and parts with other folks that are sometimes on the other side of the world. People that in a lot of instances we only know by their forum names. It takes a great deal of trust and reliance on the innate good of a fellow human to send sometimes considerable amounts of money or ship a watch halfway around the globe to a person who you don't know and in most cases will never meet. I don't know who this "buyer" is, although I have and idea, but no matter who they are, it should be brought out, if for no other reason than to prevent repeat bad behavior. There is no place on this forum for people who prey upon the trust and good nature of other members. As my friend legend said "would send PayPal immediately if he wanted to buy" Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Rick, you have some good ideas, and it's really refreshing to see a new member come aboard with the enthusiasm that you have. I agree with Freddy, Google 5513 and there will be and "images" link, lots of photos of genuine. Also you might go over to the Vintage Rolex forum, go to the marketplace and search 5513. Should be lots of good images of watches that are or were for sale. One thing that you might encounter with watches that are as old as the 5513, are watches that have been over polished, and the contours have been altered and softened. You just have to look at a lot of photos and try to duplicate the contours of a good example. Remember the most important rule of Frankens, "plan your build, build your plan" if you don't you can well end up with a bunch of parts that don't fit, and before you know it, you are stuck with a half finished project and are way over budget. . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Got to say buddy, that one is really nice. I'm not a big snowflake fan, had a gen Blue dial 9411 and loved it for a while, but after the " new wore off", it just sat in my watch box. That vintage look dial is a nice blend of new and old. I agree, why didn't they take the next step and make a real gilt dial? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great photo, and the watch ain't half bad either!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

1665 Today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rick, The lollipop refers to the seconds hand which has a bigger luminous circle. The only Tudor dials I am familiar with are the Rose dial such as the one pictured below, and the later dials with the Tudor shield. I am no Tudor expert, so possibly Bly there were others, but these are the only ones I'm familiar with..Here is a "big crown" Tudor with a "lollipop" seconds hand. Now proudly owned and worn by mjmj. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

AP FC V3 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks, I really like it. I guess the only addition would be a misiekped serviced yuki 3135 (although I'm not sure it will fit in this ST case as it's for the older 3035), genuine hands and date disk. The old TW best bracelets are "wrapped gold" Matt gold plated the sides of the endlinks which removed that big tell. Thus far it has held up very well. I don't wear it every day, but it does get worn fairly frequently.

Legend as usual has some very well thought out and sage advice. We all need to be reminded of the fact that there are some "wolves in sheep's clothing" about. We who have been around a while have seen a fair number of scammers come and go, some of them have been slick enough to hang around, make a few good trades, post in several forums and generally try to achieve that "trusted, good guy" mantra.Unfortunately, these are hard to detect, usually their true motives are only discovered after several members have been scammed. Of course the most difficult and most disheartening is the long term member who has built a solid reputation over several years, and suddenly "goes rogue" Of times these guys hook quite a few members before they are finally stopped. The easiest of course is a newer member who comes on the forum, has few posts and makes almost no contribution to the board. These sellers are usually looking to make a fast hit ansd disappear, so the list several watches for sale at very reasonable prices, members bite, and the seller gets the funds and disappears. Remember, no matter if you use PayPal gift or regular PayPal, the seller is probably going to get the money, as he will transfer it out of PayPal as soon as it hits, difference is with regular PayPal, you have recourse through PayPal. To answer some of w4tch3r's concerns, I believe that most of what legend was referring to in regards to sales involved M2M sales, not dealer sales. We are fairly confident that the TD's are not going to scam you, although in the past a few have, but it's rare that that happens. Here are a few things that I look for when dealing with a prospective seller/buyer. First off is the person a paying member? to me buying a membership in the forum, let's me know that you have a vested interest in the forum, while this isn't an ironclad rule, as I know that there are a fair number of long time members who are regular and frequent contributors to the forum knowledge base, who are not paying members. Second, is not so much the post count, but what you say in the posts. Are you making a legitimate contribution to the forum, not only by adding to the knowledge, but also asking solid well thought out questions. I disagree about members telling noobs to "Use the search function". Sure we do, but only when the person asks vague questions that are difficult to answer and or have been asked a million times, such as the famous, "who has the best sub"? Most all of us can remember back when we were noobs as well. Everyone starts from scratch at everything they do, be it a new job, college, learning a new sport or a new hobby. and don't think that it's just noobs that get taken to task for asking questions. I'm probably one of the most senior members here, joined on about the second or third day after this forum started, when a bunch of us came over here from the old TRC which was unfortunately dying a slow and agonizing death. So I've been here a while. A couple of years ago, I was a brand new noob in the AP forum, trying to find out as much info about AP watches as possible so that I could make a semi intelligent decision about ordering one. Well, one of the guys who happens to be and infrequent visitor here happed to read my thread, and basically tore me a new one for asking such a stupid question and not using the search function. I believe that this fellow was having a bad day, coupled with the fact that he spends most of his time on another forum that is not nearly as friendly as this one. My point is, you can get excoriated by someone who had a bad night, just had a fight with his wife, boss, girlfriend, whatever! So my advice to you would be, heed the advice of those guys who posted above me, ask questions, join the conversations, buy a membership, even a month to month VIP is a possibility, and you will be pleasantly surprised at how soon you will graduate out of your "noobship" and be just a regular guy. And by all means, if you make deals in the sales forum, leave feedback, and ask the other party to leave feedback for you. this isn't just limited to sales either, if you have a watch repaired by a member/watchsmith, and you are satisfied with his job, by all means leave feedback. If another member does a good deed for you, sends you a needed part, and refuses payment or a nominal payment to cover postage, please reward him with a positive feedback. We are very big on "paying it forward" on this forum and that's a big reason why this is a great community.

All of the older Rolex sports watches had/have 6mm crowns the exception being the early no crown guard subs such as the 6538 which has a 8mm "Brevet" crown and the early GMT's, 6542,1675,16750 which have 5.3mm crowns . So your 6mm crown is correct. I would bet that you are correct about the bezel dimensions, the Rolex sized inserts are very readily available, and a small watch manufacturer could easily source them "Off the shelf" , rather than have them custom made.