1016 Project 3: Space-Dweller

[lhooq]

I love the 1016 Explorer. I believe it's the purest expression of the basic Rolex design--one that started with the Oyster Perpetual and remains present in today's lineup. It's one of the perfect watch designs of the last century, in my opinion, and it's one of my few real watch obsessions.

Last Season's Models

My first post at RWG was Cheapo 1016 Project, in which I attempted to put together a decent 1016 rep for a relatively low price. Despite some setbacks -like the inability to fit a proper Tropic 22 crystal- and the overall compromise of the project, I'm still happy with the result today. But I knew I'd always be back to take another crack at it.

If you read that post, you'll notice that the first response -a very encouraging welcome to RWG- is from jmb. This is what writers like to call foreshadowing!

My second 1016 project was finished earlier this year, though it was less ambitious than the first. I simply wanted to spruce up my Hont-sourced Explorer, which is my regular swimming watch. I also wanted to use an MBK dial I'd gotten from Lanikai. The original dial, which can be spotted on many cheap 'Vintage Explorer' reps being sold today, wasn't pretty. During one of my visits to my watchmaker for this project, I noticed that he was repairing a genuine 1967 Explorer. Finally, I had the chance to compare them side-by-side!

It wasn't a pleasant experience. Once you get to a certain level of obsession, you see nothing but the differences and imperfections of the rep. I think that was when I decided to go for a better 1016--maybe based on an MBK or a Yuki case. Of course, I was distracted by my extremely needy DW 6263 back then, so I didn't make any solid plans.

Project 3: 1601 Space-Dweller

I was asking ChiMan12 for advice on how I could turn a Tudor Jumbo case into a 1019 Milgauss (project status: DEAD), when he -knowing about my obsession- told me that he had a spare 1601 Datejust case that I could use for a 1016. I initially said no, because I didn't think it could work.

In the past year, I've had several opportunities to examine and handle genuine 1016s, though never with a pair of calipers handy. One thing that always struck me was how much bigger it looked compared to my Datejust-based reps. At one point, I really believed that the Explorer had a larger case--maybe a 37mm. But after numerous discussions with C and others, and looking over numerous pictures of 1016s, I realized the mid-cases weren't all that different. What distinguished the Explorer from the Datejust was the thicker Tropic 22 crystal and, consequently, the wider and thicker bezel that had to accommodate it. And as much as I searched, I could not find an aftermarket bezel that could do the job. This is where Justin B. re-enters the picture.

I've been a huge fan of jmb's projects, from his tiny Tudors to his jaw-dropping Oyster Quartz homage. So I sent him a PM and asked if he could make a custom bezel for me. Right away, he said sure, but that I'd have to supply all the specs. I spent several evenings closely examining all the pictures of 1016s I could find, counting pixels in Photoshop and trying to make the best estimates I could eyeball. But if my baseline measurements were off (I was estimating based on the width of the lugs, the diameter of the crown, or the diameter of the crystal), that would mean the entire bezel would be a dud. So I reached out to kent2, since I'd seen a picture of his gen gilt-dial 1016 (beautiful). He was nice enough to measure his bezel with calipers. This turned out to be crucial to the project, since my previous estimate had been almost 0.5mm off. I reduced all dimensions accordingly and sent them off to North Texas, USA.

The amazing result, several weeks later:

Yes, you're probably thinking it's just a bezel, but believe me, it's the key to this project. "One bezel to fool them all," as Tolkien never wrote.

In the meantime, I'd scrambled to get back to C and ask if he still had the 1601 in his spare parts box. He did, and inside it he also had an ETA 2472: Non-hacking, 18000BPH. Sound familiar? For the next month and a half, I would coordinate with C and J as issues came up and parts were received. On my end, I'd ordered a superb Space-Dweller dial (to replace the bizarro "Tiffany & Co." I first earmarked for this project), Yuki hands, and my old favorite, the Yuki 7206 riveted bracelet. Please note that I believe Yuki has fixed the problem that this bracelet had with 2mm springbars. Mine came with springbars pre-installed, but they were easily removed and not jammed in. Furthermore, there doesn't seem to be any deformation of the endlinks.

Brief history: The Space-Dweller was a Japanese-market edition of the Explorer that was produced in small quantities during the mid-1960s. The only difference from the vanilla 1016 is the text on the dial. So let's get on with the final result, assembled by my watchsmith just yesterday:

Right about the time J received the package from C, I had a major crisis of confidence in the project. I'd become convinced that the 1601 was the wrong basis for a 1016, and that only a newer 162xx Datejust would do the job. I took some pretty drastic action that day, but eventually came to my senses and told J to continue as planned.

One of the big pluses of using a 162xx is that its case has a flat, thick midsection, just like the 1016. As Stilty has pointed out before, the 162xx also has an identical caseback setup to the 1016. I was concerned that the 1601's profile would be too slim, but I needn't have worried: The 1601 is a bit slimmer than the real deal but not obviously so. Also, the gentler curves of the lugs are more appropriate for an older Rolex. Note the 40-something year-old patina on the case, and the stunning job J did on the bezel. He suggested a brushed look for the bezel to indicate its age, but I insisted on a polished finish to match the majority of gens I've seen. If you disagree, please address all complaints to me.

The crown, as previously mentioned, is a genuine 24-600-0. Cheap, and nicely beat-up. Tube is from Clark. Also notice the overhang of the bezel compared to the case sides. This is one of the major distinguishing features of the 1016, and one that J's bezel captured well. Sadly, the lugholes had to stay Datejust-sized as they're too close to the edges of the lugs. J didn't want to risk it, and neither did I.

Since this is supposed to be a watch from the 1960s, I didn't want to use the modern-style crystal with a beveled edge. Let's take a look at the crown and bezel from a different angle, and the classic superdome profile:

Yuki 7206 expander is $44 more expensive since my first project, but it's still a fine bracelet. Note the lovely crystal distortion around the edges:

As mentioned earlier, the movement is an ETA 2472. Pretty:

Five ticks for each second:

Future upgrades? The only one I have planned is to replace the hands with relumed Clarks. The lemony Yukis don't quite match the peachy markers on the dial, and I prefer the frames of Clark hands.

And for those of you who still believe the 16200-series cases are the way to go for 1016 projects:

COMING SOON... PROJECT 4: THE LAST OF THE 1016S

Thanks for reading, and thanks again to my collaborators. I wouldn't have started this project without ChiMan12, and I couldn't have finished it without jmb! What a team!

[dluddy]

Bravo - an outstanding build

[Nanuq]

Excellent! One of my favorite vintage pieces.

[chiman12]

I want my 1601 case and movement back!!!! Of course, with the dial, hands, crystal, etc...etc...etc..

It was a fun project! I'm glad that it turned out this well!!!!

Congrats M!!!

[automatico]

"I love the 1016 Explorer. I believe it's the purest expression of the basic Rolex design--one that started with the Oyster Perpetual and remains present in today's lineup. It's one of the perfect watch designs of the last century, in my opinion, and it's one of my few real watch obsessions."

It is my all time favorite rolex too. Plain and simple...no rotating bezel, no bezel insert, no crown guards, no dive extension to fold up, no flipper lock to fool with, no date to get out of whack. No more "Issat a real rolex?" because it does not look like a submariner.

It looks like a $75 Seiko.

"One of the big pluses of using a 162xx is that its case has a flat, thick midsection, just like the 1016."

Yep.

"Also, the gentler curves of the lugs are more appropriate for an older Rolex."

True. My '1016' project watch uses a 16234 case (iirc) and from the side it looks like a convict saying "I dunno, I dunno." with his shoulders shrugged compared to the older styles.

Here are some good 1016 pics:

http://alanwatch.homestead.com/explorer.html

http://www.sheartime.com/new/st047.html

[redwatch]

Wow! Yet another great community build! Definitely one of my favorites as well LHOOQ and you pulled it off beautifully! J did an amazing job with that bezel too! Wear it well and you should be very, very happy with that watch!

[ubiquitous]

Truly a stunning build, M! That is really a phenominal piece, and fantastic pics as well!

[rolexmaniac88]

Great piece and great story!

I love the fact that you chose a space dweller dial instead of the basic explorer one. It adds character and style to the watch!

Enjoy

[gplracer]

Great job M! A truly exciting build and wonderful pictures. The project is great but you passion for he watch is what put it over the edge.

[FxrAndy]

Love it, enjoy that watch

[hiker01]

Watch.....camera.....action! Watch + picture taking skills.......impressive !

[flex]

Very inspiring project beatiful piece

- is that an aftermarket rivetted bracelet?

[jmb]

I give this piece two thumbs-up! It's really nice to see this project all buttoned up instead of a pile of parts! It was a real pleasure working with M and Chi on this, especially the excellent working sketch of the bezel as it eliminated virtually all of the trial and error sometimes involved.

[freddy333]

[StormTooper4]

Simply outstanding I can't get over how fantastic that looks. I first saw this in the Revolution Auction catalogue and yours looks brilliant Mucho Kudos to you.

Filled with Envy I am , if it ever needs a holiday down under please let me know

ST4

[krpster]

Amazing story with an even more amazing result. That 1016 is beautiful. Big to the team for this one.

[alligoat]

Excellent job, M. You've certainly distinguished yourself as the master of the genre! Beautiful.

[redwatch]

LHOOQ, that first picture at the top of this post is just amazing! I love the backdrop you are using and the angle of the watch really shows off the crystal and its distortion really nicely! Bravo on some amazing photo skills!

[lhooq]

Thanks, everyone, for the kind words. It's very gratifying to work on something with people you like, and to see an idea take shape in the metal. My metalworking and watchmaking skills may be close to zero, but the deep pool of talent at RWG makes it very easy to outsource. (Bringing jobs back to the USA--That's LHOOQ's #1 promise!)

Aside from talent, there's also the incredible amount of knowledge packed into this subforum. I could not have attempted this project last year, simply because I wouldn't have known enough.

C: We'll meet up in Banff and have that drink one of these days! J can ride one of his BMWs over!

automatico: "Shrugging convict" made me laugh almost as much as your "looking between the lugs" remark, but the imagery is perfect! $75 Seiko? Harsh, but so, so true. That's one reason why I love it so.

flex: Bracelet is Yuki's 7206 expander. Still a bargain at $152, believe it or not!

Red: If you ever saw my "lightbox" you'd laugh at how haphazard and low-budget it is! (Picture me hunched in the space above my computer and beneath a fluorescent light, holding 8.5x11 sheets to the side.) But I did want to get all the photos right for this writeup. After all the work that went into the Space-Dweller, it'd be a shame to just slap something together.

Finally, I didn't mention the "Mercury astronauts visit Japan" story, since I have a feeling that it might be one of those Steve McQueen-like legends. Can anyone confirm whether this really happened?

[tmg]

That's a classic, wear it well!

[redwatch]

Man if that is a "haphazard" light box you are using, then you are the man!! The photos are stunning! The lighting is great....the backdrop is really nice....the selective depth of field is stunning......bottom line...A++++++ Pics!

What kind of camera are you using? If this is a rigged up photo booth, maybe you could post some how to's for some of the other members to see how you are getting those shots. They are truly great LHOOQ!

[Brightight]

Beautiful M, JB has done a great job on the insert and I do agree with you, polished it has to be unless you are going for a beaten up look. I love the Space Dweller dial too. I should have gone for the 7206 expanding seemingly for my 1016 build as the 7206 non spring they sent me didn't take gen 2mm spring bars. By the way, Yuki have just added a 7836 folded link bracelet to their stock list - http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6784664/8082246.htm - no idea yet what springbars that takes!

[Dizzy]

Awesome project! I love the little domed crystal. Pictures are top notch quality also!! The 5 ticks per second pic is very cool!

dizz

[TeeJay]

Wow, that's a fantastic project, kudos to all involved

[lhooq]

Brightight: I saw that 7836 at Yuki's, too, but at that price it had better be MUCH better than the one that comes with Josh's 1655. It does seem to be more accurate, though: Check out the blanked-off endlinks that are fully integrated with the bracelet, unlike the detachable ones on the cheaper model.

Redwatch: I really appreciate the compliments on the photos, as you've taken some very impressive shots. (Ditto to ubi and his granite countertop of horological delights!) But I warn you that the following is not going to be pretty:

The computer case is a Lian-Li PC-7 in black brushed aluminum. But what's all that crud stacked on top of it?

...and that's how sausages are made!