alligoat

One of my first reps was the DRSD from Paul- working HE valve and that bracelet- with a Swiss eta and only $139 shipped to the USA. That was 2006 as I recall. Still have the bracelet, but off loaded the case at some point. The Swiss eta is in a 16660 that I built- it has the silver datewheel to boot with the open 6/9s.

The XS 305.451 is definitely a domed crystal, probably a super. I've got a page which I believe came from Cousinsuk and it shows the Round Special Forms Plastic Topglasses from 294-310 diameter and the nice thing is it has all of the IDs listed also.

It looks good, but is it too thick?

I found a Sternkreuz crystal- XS305.451- it is a T-19 and has an ID of 27.9 and OD of 30.5. Hopefully that would be a tight fit on you case neck and also work w/ your crystal retention ring

Yep, the crown is a tad high, but if you've got a good eta in there, it should still be a great watch. I checked out a 116234 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Rolex-Datejust-36-Stainless-116234/dp/B01DML3PSC?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=ad-backfill-s-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01DML3PSC You can see there's a slight gap between the crown and the minute track. Enjoy your new watch!

This might also work https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-6542-Bezel-Brass-Or-Brass-Nickel-Plated-Complete/252641300072?hash=item3ad2984e68:g:zG0AAOSwiHpaF1-b And might be cheaper than Phong. But Phong is good also and stands behind his parts.

Looking at the top plate on that movement, I'd say it's for a Datejust. The sloped top plate accommodates the pie pan dial in the case. I see the datewheel in the first pic, but it's not installed on the movement.

I had the "Drag files here to attach or choose files" last week and couldn't reply to any posts. It finally went away this week. I use IE typically, but was getting the same repsonse in google Chrome

A 700 crown and tube would be ok for a DRSD, but a 702 crown and tube is correct for a GWSD. By the time the GWSD came out, the 700 crown and tube had been replaced by the 702 triplock assembly. And of course anything that had been serviced could easily have a 703 crown and tube.

try rafflesdials.com

Back a few years ago, the cartel case used to accept a gen crystal and had a gen like bezel assembly. Now days I'm not sure. I think the last cartel case I got was from Josh- perfect clones.

That's a beauty! Two things catch my eye- I love the 13 on the datewheel and that HE valve looks like it's too depressed. But the 1665 was always the best of the MBWs.

BP Datejusts are well thought of. http://trustytime.store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_294&products_id=14270 And this one has an Asian 2836-2 movement Most automatic movements have a power reserve of between 40 and 48 hours if they're clean and well adjusted. If you wear it all the time, the power reserve shouldn't be an issue

I'm thinking that the rafflesdials rivet would be period correct for a 6239 http://rafflesdials.com/signed-solid-stainless-steel-19mm-vintage-rivet-style-quality-watch-band-bracelet-strap-for-vintage-34mm-rolex-watch-case/ DW used to sell a 78350 with 571 ends for his old Daytonas- too bad we can't find those anymore- you'd think some one would be still making them over in China!

If you have a 114270 rep, you can always get the lugholes drilled, but I don't know where you'll find a domed sapphire crystal to fit. Maybe you could get a gilt Explorer dial from Yuki- hopefully it will fit in the 114270 case and the gold hands wouldn't be hard to find either. To build a Commando, you'll need a dial and it will have to be custom- maybe a water slide decal. BTW, case for a Commando is 34mm and the movement was the manual wind 1225, but getting the dial is really the challenge. And the difference between a 34 and 36 mm case isn't that noticeable. Hands on the Commando look like DJ hands to me- or at least a DJ set of hands would be close. I'd personally buy a vintage 1016 Explorer and then get the gilt dial and hands and go from there. What you have in mind is what we call a 'fantasy watch' with no real basis in the real world.

What's IG? Instagram.... How about a link?

Bear in mind the 1520/1570 movements are over 30 years old. Same with the V72. There's just no interest in producing outdated movements- way too costly with slim chances of recouping your investment. And the 2824/2836 can be produced for probably less than $50.

You never know with these reps, but the bracelet says 19mm on it which would make the case lugs 19mm - which is typical of the 34 mm cases. This is the 34-35mm Oysterdate watch I got from Silix 12 years ago- it was a nice case- a good copy of the 6694 Oysterdate http://www.silix-prime.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=115_158_228&products_id=1855&zenid=2ck264tabmshfrqq3hg7jnd676 For the price, the marywatch doesn't look like a bad gamble. Silix also has some nice simple DJs in the same price range.

plus 1 what Yllekp said.

Keep looking, they're out there https://www.ebay.com/itm/45mm-without-logo-Rose-gold-Mens-Watch-SEA-GULL-ST3600-swan-neck-movement/262954222823?hash=item3d394b04e7:g:~N8AAOSwtZJZAI7A

Trustytime, Andrew, used to have an option like that- serviced using fine Swiss oils or something to that effect. But your best bet is get a watch with the Asian clone eta and have it serviced where you live by a local independent watchsmith. Here's a BP Fifty Fathoms with a Jap Miyota 9015- that might be a good option assuming the 9015 comes in good shape http://trustytime.store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_id=14054 Most of Trusty's BP FFs are pricey at around $500

My guess is that the date window is too far to the right in what is referred to as the eta position. To correct it, you would have to buy a 1500 Date dial and get a good datewheel overlay and that might fix the problem. You might have to get another plastic crystal also- can't remember which Tropic goes on a 1500 Date. LOL, I just realized the bracelet has the 571 end pieces which are correct for the Daytonas, only they're upside down- too bad. This watch is probably 34mm which is what the Rolex Date is. But it's not a bad price for the watch and might be a good start if you are up for the mods required, or you could just wear it as is. You could also buy a dial from Yuki and hands and make it an Explorer fairly easily- maybe a T-12 would fit which is the crystal w/o a cyclops. I had a similar watch from Silix 12 years ago and made it into an Explorer- that was back in the days when the watches came with Swiss etas and cost around $139.

Asian 7750s are always a challenge! 6/9/12 and 3/6/9 are the best layouts. Forget about running seconds at 6 or 12- too much Chinese gearing which is prone to failure. In the old days, Ziggy would service an A7750 and make it reliable, but alas, he's retired. Finding a watchmaker who works on the A7750 would be nice, but I currently don't have one.

Very impressive and thanks for sharing the specs with commentary on the build.

Keep looking, it ain't rhodium!